Travel Archives – Uncornered Market Travel That Cares for Our Planet and Its People Thu, 26 Jun 2025 12:56:22 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://uncorneredmarket.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/cropped-UncorneredMarket_Favicon-32x32.png Travel Archives – Uncornered Market 32 32 Berlin Christmas Markets: The Ultimate Guide (Updated 2024) https://uncorneredmarket.com/berlin-christmas-markets-beginners-guide/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/berlin-christmas-markets-beginners-guide/#comments Sun, 08 Dec 2024 20:05:09 +0000 https://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=21600 While many cities in Germany have one main Christmas Market, Berlin has dozens of Christmas Markets from which you can choose based on your interests and style. So, which are the best Christmas markets in Berlin? Whether you're looking for ... Continue Reading

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While many cities in Germany have one main Christmas Market, Berlin has dozens of Christmas Markets from which you can choose based on your interests and style. So, which are the best Christmas markets in Berlin?

Whether you're looking for a traditional German Christmas market or something a bit more offbeat, I offer here my handy Berlin Christmas Market guide. The recommendations are based on our experience living in Berlin for ten years and being avid Christmas market fans. It has all the information you need to know, including dates and schedules of Berlin Christmas markets and notes on how to visit my local favorites — these are Christmas markets that will make your visit to Berlin during the Christmas and holiday season even more special.

Berlin Christmas Markets, Gendermenmarkt all lit up
Berlin Christmas Markets. How can you not get into the holiday spirit?

The Spirit of German Christmas Markets

There’s something that just about everyone looks forward to in December in Berlin: Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmarkt or Adventsmarkt). They offer a retreat from the shortening days of the year, into the company of gathered friends and neighbors.

In the selection that follows, you'll find the “markets” listed less about shopping and more about community — where friends and families make plans to meet at the market after work or on weekends. A place where the aroma of glühwein (spiced, mulled wine) and sweet roasted almonds wafts in an atmosphere of twinkling lights in a chilly winter vapor.

As conversations happen over steaming mugs of glühwein and hearty German street food like bratwurst, market-goers catch up on life and give air to what awaits at the turn of the new year. Christmas markets serve as the perfect antidote — or accompaniment if you like — to the approaching Winter Solstice.

I confess that I am a bit of a Christmas market geek. I helped launch a Christmas market when I lived in Estonia many years ago. Dan and I have even taken Christmas market-themed road trips through Germany and Central Europe.

Maybe this Christmas market affinity of mine has something to do with the fact that I'm American and I didn't grow up with the Christmas market culture. So, I get a little giddy when the season rolls around and I'm within reach of one. Whatever the cause, this is one of the reasons we stick around Berlin in December.

Berlin Christmas Markets, Food and Drink
Eierpunsch (egg liqeur punch) in Potsdam. Winter therapy?

Does Berlin Have Christmas Markets?

At this point you might be thinking: “German Christmas markets are famous, but I’ve never heard anything about Christmas markets in Berlin.”

OK, then. Berlin’s Christmas markets haven’t traditionally carried the same reputation or history as those in other German cities like Munich, Nuremberg or Stuttgart. But that’s changing. Berlin makes its own way and blends the traditional into the tapestry of its forward-lurching, unusual self.

Just as Berlin doesn’t have one town center, it also doesn’t have one main Christmas market. Instead, Berlin usually features more than 50 markets (in 2022 it's gone up to 70 markets!) spread throughout the city, each with its own distinct personality, atmosphere and specialties. Some run the length of the Advent season, while others are limited-time offers or tuned to the spirit of their local neighborhood for only a weekend or two.

Of course, a certain commercialization and schlock lurks conspicuously at some markets. With this in mind, we share our personal recommendations: a few trusted and traditional or local and authentic favorites to help you get started in your Berlin Christmas market exploration.

Note: This post was originally published on December 3, 2015 and updated on December 8, 2024 with updated dates, times and other information. .

Berlin Christmas Market Dates

Berlin Christmas markets are usually open for the entire Advent Christmas market season, from the end of November through Christmas (and sometimes through to the New Year). In 2024, most of the Berlin Christmas Market open on 25 November 2024 and run until the very end of December or beginning of January 2025.

Best Berlin Christmas Markets

With around 70 Christmas markets in Berlin, so you'll have quite a few to choose from to enjoy the holiday season.

We find these Christmas markets especially atmospheric when it's dark and everything is tastefully lit, which is easy since the sun sets in Berlin before 4PM throughout December. Glühwein seems to taste better in the evening, too.

READ MORE: Berlin Travel: A Beginner's Guide

WeihnachtsZauber Gendarmenmarkt Christmas Market

Berlin Christmas Markets, Gendarmenmarkt
Gendarmenmarkt Christmas market. Traditional, bright and cheery.

Why: For a bit of the traditional in a beautiful setting, especially at night as the Konzerthaus (Concert Hall) and nearby churches and buildings are lit. Gift stands at the Gendarmenmarkt Christmas Market tend to be handicraft-oriented or luxury-focused. Food quality is generally pretty high here as well.

Be sure to check out the big feuerzangenbowle (fire-tongs punch) tent and seek out the wooden barrel of rum to the right of the bar should you need to “enhance” your steaming mug full of punch. In general, if you encounter a choice of glühwein “mit schuss”, that simply means “with a shot” as in a shot of rum or possibly amaretto. Note: Gendarmenmarkt charges a nominal entrance fee of €1. For more information, check out the Gendarmenmarkt Christmas market page.

  • Location and Directions 2024: The WeihnachtsZauber market has moved in 2024 from Gendarmenmarkt to Bebelplatz at the State Opera just off of Unter den Linden. Take the U6/U5 to Unter den Linden station or the U5 to Museumsinsel. It is expected that this Christmas will return to its regular location in 2025 after construction ends at Gendarmenmarkt.
  • Neighborhood: Mitte.
  • 2024 dates for the Gendarmenmarkt Christmas Market: 25 November – 31 December 2024
  • Opening hours: 12:00 – 22:00 Sunday-Thursday, 12:00 – 23:00 Friday and Saturday (except 24 December until only 18:00)

Schloss Charlottenburg Christmas Market

Berlin Christmas Markets, Schloss Charlottenburg Market
Schloss Charlottenburg Christmas market.

Why: To drink mugs of steaming glühwein in the shadow of a 300+ year old Baroque palace. The Schloss Charlottenburg Christmas market is one with big time European fairytale charm. Some of its stands feature traditional — and huge — Christmas pyramids which entertain as figures go round and round all night long. Also fun, but kind of cheesy, is the light show at night.

For more information, check out the Schloss Charlottenburg Christmas Market page.

  • Location and Directions: Just in front of the Schloss Charlottenburg Palace main entrance on Spandauer Damm. Closest U-Bahn stations include Sophie-Charlotte-Platz or Richard-Wagner Platz, as well as Westend station on the S-Bahn.
  • Neighborhood: Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf
  • Dates for the 2024 Schloss Charlottenburg Christmas Market: 25 November – 29 December, 2024
  • Opening hours: Monday to Thursday from 1 to 10 pm, Friday to Sunday from 12 to 10 pm, 25 and 26 December from 12 to 10 pm, closed on Christmas Eve

Lucia Christmas Market at Kulturbrauerei (Nordic-Scandanavian Christmas Market)

Berlin Christmas Markets, Lucia Scandanavian Market
Berlin's Lucia Nordic-Scandinavian Christmas market at night.

Why: Because you always wanted to taste the difference between Swedish, Norwegian and Danish glögg (Scandinavian mulled wine). Top off the entire experience with reindeer sausages and a host of other Nordic games and treats and you might just forget where you are. Compared to other open-space Christmas markets, the Lucia Christmas Market is set up in the winding courtyards of Kulturbrauerei, a 19th century brick industrial complex.

For more information, see the Lucia Christmas Market at KulturBrauerei page.

  • Location and Directions: The Lucia Christmas Market (and Kulturbrauerei) has multiple entrances at Knaackstr. 97, Sredzkistr. 1 and Schönhauser Allee 36-39. Closest U-Bahn station is Eberswalder Str. (U2) or Trams 12, M10, M1.
  • Neighborhood: Prenzlauer Berg
  • Dates for the 2024 Lucia Christmas Market: 25 November – 22 December, 2024
  • Opening hours: Monday – Friday, 15:00 – 22:00; Saturday – Sunday, 12:00 – 22:00

Spandau Old Town and Citadel Christmas Markets

Berlin Christmas Markets, Spandau Market
Spandau Christmas Market in all its holiday-lit glory.

Why: To feel as though you’ve been transported to a small German village even though you remain within the Berlin city limits. The citadel of Spandau, one of the best preserved Renaissance fortresses in Europe, is also taken over by its Christmas market.

The old town of Spandau also hosts a large Christmas Market on its streets. While the atmosphere and some of the bigger stands along the main strip can feel a bit commercial, the little courtyards and stands convey something a bit more traditional.

For more information, see the Spandau Christmas Market page.

  • Location and Directions: Take the U7 to Zitadelle Spandau or S3/S7 to Spandau.
  • Neighborhood: Spandau
  • Dates for the 2024 Spandau Christmas Market: 25 November – 22 December 2024
  • Opening hours: Daily from 12:00 – 20:00, closed 24-25 December

Medieval Historical Christmas Market at RAW

Medieval Christmas Market at RAW in Friedrichshain, Berlin

Why: To feel like you've gone back in time to a medieval village complete with axe throwing or archery competitions and hand-operated carousels. This Berlin Christmas market is built each year on the grounds of the RAW Cultural Center and is a fun experience and atmosphere, especially for families or kids, thanks to all of its performances and games.

You can warm yourself up around one of the several fire pits and drink mulled wine or hot mead from heavy ceramic mugs. There is also plenty of hearty food, some of it of it aiming to be “medieval” (aka, heavy), to keep you warm and full. A fun way to spend a cold winter evening.

For more information see the Historical Christmas Market at RAW Cultural Centre page.

  • Location and Directions: Revaler Straße 99, take the U-Bahn or S-Bahn to Warschauer Straße station.
  • Neighborhood: Friedrichshain
  • Dates for the 2024 Historical Christmas Market at RAW: 14 November – 22 December 2024
  • Opening hours: Monday – Friday 15:00 – 22:00, Saturday – Sunday 12:00 pm – 22:00
  • Entrance Fee: €2 for adults, Thursday – Sunday. Free from Monday – Wednesday.

Potsdam Christmas Market

Berlin Christmas Markets, Potsdam
A proper Christmas pyramid at the Potsdam Christmas Market.

Why: To take a break from the big city. Visit the Potsdam UNESCO sites of Sanssouci Palace and gardens during the day and enjoy eierpunsch (spiced egg punch) at the Christmas market at night. The market takes over the streets of the old town for blocks on end and features some of the most elaborate and largest displays we’ve seen. There’s also an ice skating rink and other fun stuff for kids…or adults.

There is also a Polish Christmas Market nearby at the Kutschstallhof from 2-4 December to get your fill of Polish pierogis, handicrafts and other specialties.

For more information, see the Potsdam Christmas Market page.

Berlin Christmas Markets, Potsdam Market
Early gatherings at the Potsdam Christmas market.
  • Location and Directions: Take the S-Bahn to the city of Potsdam, which is about a 45-60 minute ride from central Berlin. This requires an ABC ticket.
  • Neighborhood: Potsdam
  • Dates for the 2024 Potsdam Old Town Christmas Market: 25 November – 29 December 2024
  • Opening hours: Daily from 12:00 – 20:00, closed 24-25 December

Berlin Neighborhood and Weekend Christmas Markets

In addition to Christmas markets which run the entire length of Advent, Berlin also features its share of short-run special and weekend markets. These markets are typically smaller affairs featuring local organizations and neighborhood-oriented venues. If you're visiting Berlin for a couple of days during the Christmas season and authentic and local is what you seek, it's absolutely worth doing some research to see which of these markets happens to be timed with your visit.

Alt-Rixdorfer Christmas Market

Berlin Christmas Markets, Rixdorf Neighborhood Market
The Rixdorf Christmas market is local, but its atmosphere draws crowds from across Berlin.

Why: The Rixdorf Christmas Market serves as a nice kickoff to the Christmas season. It also illustrates how a neighborhood Christmas market can be done well and at scale with local organizations selling homemade crafts to raise money for schools, charities, firemen’s groups, and more. Stands tend to be locally run and offer a perfect excuse to get to know the Neukölln district a little better.

The square where the Alt-Rixdorf Christmas market is held, Richardplatz, features an enclosure with pony rides and a petting zoo. The whole thing is sweet, quaint and helps take you back in time a bit. For more information, see the Alt-Rixdorfer Christmas Market page.

  • Location and Directions: On Richardplatz near the Karl-Marx Strasse station (U7).
  • Neighborhood: Neukölln.
  • Dates for the 2024 Alt-Rixdorf Christmas Market: 6-8 December 2024
  • Opening hours: Friday 17-21:00; Saturday 14:00 – 21:00; Sunday 14:00 – 20:00

Heissa Holzmarkt

Berlin Christmas Market Heissa Holzmarkt
Bonfires and an urban village scene are all part of the Christmas market at Holzmarkt.

Why: For a mixture of traditional and alternative in a fun and eclectic Berlin community space. Located on the Spree River in Friedrichshain, Holzmarkt is open all year around with its fixed shops, bakery, art studios and event space. Its Christmas market open on weekends during the advent season transforms what feels like its own urban village into a bit of a traditional and modern winter wonderland with bonfires by the river, ample amounts of glühwein, silent disco booths, German and international food options, bizarre puppet shows, and much more. This has become one of our favorite Berlin Christmas markets in the last years.

For more information, see this Heissa Holzmarkt Christmas Market page.

  • Location and Directions: Holzmarktstrasse 15, Friedrichshain. The Holzmarkt urban village is a compound of buildings on the Spree river. It's a 10-minute walk from S+U Jannowitzbrücke station.
  • Neighborhood: Friedrichshain
  • Dates for 2024 Heissa Holzmarkt: 16 November – 22 December 2024, €2 entry Friday to Sunday
  • Opening hours: Wednesday – Friday 16:00-22:00; Saturday-Sunday 14:00 – 22:00

Schloss Britz Christmas Market

Berlin Christmas Markets, Schloss Britz Medieval Market
Schloss Britz, a Christmas market with a medieval feel.

Why: To experience an intimate Nordic Medieval Fairytale Christmas market in the courtyard of an 18th century manor house. Though medieval costumes are involved here, the market somehow seems to pull this off without being a caricature of itself. As Schloss Britz Christmas market doesn't typically see the hordes that other markets might, you'll have the opportunity to speak to the various artisans and learn more about their handicrafts, preserves and other wares. The food served is usually inventive and a bit different than standard fare.

There is a €3 entrance fee, but we feel that the atmosphere and quality of the stands warrants the price. For more information, see the Schloss Britz Christmas Market page.

Berlin Christmas Markets, Medieval Market at Schloss Britz
Icicles and Christmas pyramids at Schloss Britz.
  • Location and Directions: Schloss Britz, near Parchimer Allee station (U7) or bus 181 Britzer Damm/Mohriner Avenue.
  • Neighborhood: Neukölln
  • Dates for 2024 Schloss Britz Nordic Market: 30 November – 22 December 2024, weekends only
  • Opening hours: Friday 14:00-21:00; Saturday-Sunday 11:00 – 21:00

Christmas Market at Domäne Dahlem

Why: Located on the grounds of a manor house which also serves as a sort of farm and agricultural museum, the Christmas Market at Domäne Dahlem includes many small producers and artisans selling everything from sea salts and spices to traditional German handicrafts.

There is also an emphasis on fresh and organic foods, so you can certainly eat well and heartily here. Domäne Dahlem is a bit outside Berlin center, but if you want a more neighborhood and countryside feel, check out this Christmas Market during one of the Advent weekends. Entrance is €4.50.

For more information, see the Christmas Market at Domäne Dahlem page.

  • Location and Directions: Königin-Luise-Straße 49, 14195 Berlin. Take the U3 to Dahlem-Dorf station.
  • Neighborhood: Dahlem
  • Dates for 2024 Domäne Dahlem Christmas Market: 30 November – 22 December 2024, Saturday and Sunday Only
  • Opening hours: Saturday-Sunday 11:00 – 19:00

Berlin Christmas Market Resources

More Holiday Things to do in Berlin

Even if visiting Christmas markets is the main goal of your winter visit to Berlin, there are other holiday and Christmas-oriented things to do in the city. Here are a few of the more popular tours, events and experiences in Berlin as offered by our partner (also Berlin-based), Get Your Guide. They offer many different Berlin tours with no booking fees and free cancellation up to 24 hours before.

  • Christmas Garden in the Botanical Gardens: I have to admit that I never thought about visiting the Botanical Gardens for Christmas this until my hairdresser recommended it as her favorite holiday activity in Berlin. A 2-km route takes you through a winter wonderland of lights and different holiday installations.
  • Berlin TV Tower Fast View Tickets: Get out of the cold and up above it all with these fast-track tickets that allow you to skip the line and go straight up to the top of the TV Tower. You'll have great views of the Christmas market below at Alexander Platz as well as the city as a whole.
  • Berlin Welcome Card with Transport Pass: Get around the city by public transportation easily without worrying about buying or validating your tickets with this Berlin Welcome Card (ABC Zones). You can choose different lengths, from 48-hours to 6-days. And, the Welcome Card provides you with lots of discounts at different attractions, shops or museums. We've used Berlin Welcome Cards quite a bit when we've had visitors as it's cost-effective when you plan to travel around a lot and do a lot of different activities.

Best Areas in Berlin To Stay for Christmas Markets

Here are a few recommended accommodation options in some of our favorite Berlin neighborhoods of Kreuzberg-Friedrichshain, Neukölln, and Mitte.

  • Weinmeister Hotel in Mitte: Located in the heart of Mitte near Hackescher Markt and not far from Alexanderplatz, this design hotel is in a great location and has a beautiful rooftop terrace for meals and drinks. Several friends and work colleagues have stayed here and recommend it. Note: this is an adult-only hotel.
  • Hüttenpalast in Neukölln: Located in a fun and hip area between Kreuzberg and Neukölln, Hüttenpalast offers both retro-style caravans and cabins, as well as hotel rooms, and a relaxing garden. Friends have enjoyed staying here.
  • Nena Apartments in Bergmannkiez, Kreuzberg: If you want your own apartment and kitchen to self-cater, these apartments on a quiet street in the cute Bergmannkiez part of Kreuzberg are a good option. There are also Nena Apartments in Neukölln (Hermannplatz) and in the Moritzplatz area of Kreuzberg.
  • Michelberger Hotel in Friedrichshain: Located close to the East Side Gallery (2km of the Berlin Wall that is now an outdoor mural gallery) and Spree River, the Michelberger Hotel has a great lobby and restaurant on the ground floor and unique design rooms of all sizes and prices. Several friends who have stayed here recommend it for the rooms and the location.
  • Circus Hostel in Berlin: If you are looking for a hostel or budget accommodation option, several friends have recommended Circus Hostel with both dorm and single/double room options. It's located very close to Rosenthaler Platz in Mitte with lots of local restaurants, cafes and bars in walking distance. The owners have recently opened up Circus Hotel nearby if you aren't into the hostel vibe.

Plan Your Berlin Christmas Market Trip

  • How to get to Berlin: There are endless options to fly to Berlin thanks to all the traditional and low cost airlines flying into TXL (Tegel Airport) or SXF (Schönefeld Airport). We often use Skyscanner to compare flight prices and to book tickets because it displays all the various airline combinations, including options from low-fare airlines.
  • Berlin restaurant recommendations: For budget eating, check our our guides for favorite cheap eats in Berlin under €5 and our favorite neighborhood meals under €10. StilinBerlin offers another reliable resource for local Berlin restaurants and “best of” guides.

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The Lost City, Colombia: A Guide to Hiking to La Ciudad Perdida https://uncorneredmarket.com/lost-city-trek-colombia/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/lost-city-trek-colombia/#comments Sun, 29 May 2022 08:29:00 +0000 https://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=20725 The hike to the Lost City in northern Colombia takes you 46km (28 miles) round trip through the jungles, hills and river valleys of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. We’d had our sights set on the Lost City Trek for years, ... Continue Reading

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The hike to the Lost City in northern Colombia takes you 46km (28 miles) round trip through the jungles, hills and river valleys of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. We’d had our sights set on the Lost City Trek for years, so expectations had built up. Fortunately, the challenge, landscape, and experience exceeded so many of them.

This Lost City Columbia Hiking Guide shares why that is and includes a day-by-day overview of the Lost City Trek, all you need to know to choose the right tour, how to pack and organize so that you can enjoy the Ciudad Perdida and this multi-day hike to the fullest.

We were out of breath, having just climbed 1,200 stone steps when Celso, our indigenous guide, called for us to join him around a group of stones arranged in a circle in a clearing. In the middle of the circle stood another square stone on top of which lay a pile of coca leaves placed as an offering. Celso explained with trademark calm in a slow, deliberate voice, “This is a place where we should let go of our impurities, our negative thoughts and emotions.”

We stood in silence, not only to “cleanse” ourselves so that we might better experience this sacred site, but also to enjoy its peace and quiet. To Celso, we were then prepared to further visit Teyuna, otherwise known as the Lost City (La Ciudad Perdida) in Colombia, the ultimate destination to which we’d been trekking in the rain forest for the previous two days.

Lost City Trek in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of Colombia
A taste of landscape along the Lost City Trek.

Here’s why you might want to consider putting the Lost City or Ciudad Perdidia in Colombia on your travel or hiking wish list, in case it isn’t there already. In this Lost City Colombia Guide we include the day-by-day hiking experience plus all you need to know about to choose a Lost City tour and how plan, prepare for and pack to be able to enjoy the complete Lost City Colombia experience.

Update: This article was originally published in June 2015 and updated in May 2022 with information about the new G Adventures Lost City Trek itinerary.

The following experiences are from our G Adventures Lost City Trek. If you are considering this tour and want to know what to expect, here’s a taste of the itinerary and route, interaction with local indigenous guides, campsites and Wiwa community project. Disclosure: This tour was sponsored and provided to us in conjunction with our partnership with G Adventures as Wanderers.


About this Lost City Colombia Trek Guide

When I researched the Lost City Trek as part of our travels in Colombia, I found a fair bit of conventional history about the site, often paired with a photo or two of the final destination, including what I refer to as the “golf course” shot.

What I didn’t find much of was information on what the actual journey to the Lost City was like, including the hiking experience, difficulty, landscapes, sleeping and eating conditions, weather, and more. That's the goal of this Lost City Trek day-by-day section.

Teyuna, the Lost City in Colombia
Us in front of the “golf course” shot.

The landscape along the trail is more beautiful and varied than we had expected and the Lost City site itself is far more extensive than most photos indicate. We especially appreciated having an indigenous guide to put everything into cultural and historical context.

Celso, a member of the local Wiwa indigenous community, shared his culture with us and linked it to the other indigenous communities, their relationship to nature and their shared connection to the ancient Tayrona civilization.

Our indigenous Wiwa guide during the Lost City Trek, Colombia
Our Wiwa guide, Celso, with his poporo, a gourd used for carrying crushed seashells (lime).

Our days usually began early, around 5:00 A.M., so we could get on the trail while it was still cool and so that we could complete our day’s journey before the rains of the mid-late afternoon. We appreciated getting up early, and we enjoyed all the benefits of the early morning – light, coolness and silence among them.

Lost City Trek Map

The map below shows the basic Lost City trail with different options for campsites and sections. We did a four-day hike, but if you opt for a five-day Lost City trek then your second and third days will be shorter as you'll have two days to complete that same route. The current G Adventures Lost City Trek is five days.

Lost City Trek Map
Lost City trailhead sign with route, campsites and distances.

Hiking to the Lost City in Colombia: Day by Day Itinerary

Day 1 of the Lost City Trek

  • Start/Finish: Machete (El Mamey) to Adán or Ricardito Camp (Campsite #1)
  • Distance: 7-8 km

All Lost City treks, no matter which tour company you choose, seem to set off from Santa Marta in northern Colombia. From there, a jeep or van transfer takes 45 minutes along the highway.

You’ll likely stop at a convenience store for last minute snacks and water. From there, you’ll head up a dirt track into the mountains.

After you arrive in Machete, you’ll have lunch, say goodbye to the driver and meet your local indigenous hiking guide. Then, the hike begins. (Note: this is when you should ask the people coming off the trek if they have a walking stick they can give you. It is really helpful for balance and ease on the trail.)

Swimming hole along the Lost City Trek, Day 1.
The first of several swimming holes along the trail.

The beginning of the walk eases you into things, with a swimming hole a close 25 minutes from the trailhead. After cooling off in the water, you’ll have a steep uphill for around 45 minutes, then a bit of a break, then a long descent into the valley where the first campsite is located.

Horse in the Sierra Nevada Mountains - Lost City Trek, Colombia
Everything on the trail comes up on the backs of mules or horses.
 Lost City Trek, Colombia - water break with a view.
Enjoying the view during a fruit and water break, Day 1.
Lost City Trek, Colombia. Steep hills on day 1 of trek.
Steep terrain into the valley of the first campsite.

Day 2 of the Lost City Trek

  • Start/Finish: Adan or Ricardito Campsite #1 to El Paraiso or Paso Lorenzo Camp (Campsite #3)
  • Distance: 14.7km (Note: for the 5-day Lost City Trek this day is 7-8 km)

If you are doing a 4-day Lost City Trek, then this is a long hiking day. If you are doing a 5-day route like the G Adventures Lost City Trek then this will be a similar distance as the previous day, 7-8 km, to Wiwa Camp (Campsite #2).

Rivers along the Lost City Trek, Colombia.
The trail crosses Rio Buritaca several times during the journey.

The first segment of the day takes you uphill and across some beautiful terrain, including some local farms. After a jump in a swimming hole and lunch at Campsite #2 (Wiwa Camp), we continued all the way to Campsite #3 (El Paraiso or Paso Lorenzo Camp), located only 1 km downhill from the site of the Lost City.

If you are doing the 5-day Lost City Trek, then you would stop at Campsite #2 for the night.

Lost City Trek, rain in the tropical forest
A little rain never hurt anyone…

This day takes you through a great deal of varied landscape — deeper into the tropical jungle, across rivers and by a couple of Kogi village communities along the way.

Lost City Trek, Kogi Village
Passing by a small Kogi village.
River Crossings Along the Lost City Trek, Colombia.
When the river is too high, you cross in a mid-air cage-like contraption. Don't worry, it's more secure than it looks.
Lost City Trek, after the rains
After the rains, enjoying the open landscape.

Day 3 of the Lost City Trek: Visiting La Cuidad Perdida

  • Start/Finish: El Paraiso or Paso Lorenzo Camp (Campsite #3) to Wiwa Camp (Campsite #2), via the Lost City / Ciudad Perdida
  • Distance: 13.6km
  • Note: This is day 4 if you are doing a 5 day Lost City Trek.

You rise very early on this day (around 4:30A.M.) so that you can set off at dawn and enjoy the Lost City in the softest light and coolest air possible. After a short walk from the campsite, you reach the starting point of the 1,200 stone stairs you’ll need to walk and scramble to reach the terraces of the city above.

It’s not an easy climb, and can be a bit treacherous if wet or damp, but if you take care and get into a meditative rhythm, you’ll find it goes very quickly.

Lost City Trek, Stairs Leading to Teyuna
Slow and steady up 1,200 carved stairs.

After the steps, you’ll have reached the lower chambers of Teyuna, also known as The Lost City or Ciudad Perdida. It is believed that this was a capital city built by the Tayrona civilization in 800 A.D., approximately 600 years before the Incas built Machu Picchu in Peru.

When Spanish colonialists came close to finding or approaching the in the 16th century, the Tayrona people opted to abandon the city instead of allowing it to fall into Spanish hands.

Lost City Trek, Indigenous Kogi Men
Two Kogi men return from the upper chambers of Teyuna.

Of course, the Lost City Colombia was never truly “lost.” Teyuna was overtaken by jungle for the next several hundred years, as only the shaman (holy men) of the four indigenous groups who live in the area were aware of its existence and would visit it regularly for ceremonies.

It wasn’t until the early 1970s that the site was “discovered” by the outside world. Tomb thieves cleared out much of the gold, valuable artifacts and other remains. Due to this misfortune and the fact that no written record of the Tayrona exists, much about the city and civilization remains the subject of speculation.

Lost City Trek, Indigenous Guide Explaining History
Celso explains the competing theories of the Lost City version of the Rosetta Stone.

The Wiwa, Kogi, Arhuaco, and Kankuamo indigenous groups that remain in the area are believed to be the descendants of the Tayrona and have carried on their stories and traditions.

We noticed when we arrived at the Lost City, Celso let down his hair, the surprising length of which is said to represent the wisdom that flows from the sacred mountains through the rivers to the coast. He was dressed in white, as was his custom, to represent the purity and integrity of the snow-covered peaks of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, out of sight in the distance.

Lost City Trek - Terraces of Ancient Teyuna
Celso leads us to the upper terraces of Teyuna, the Lost City.

Throughout our journey, he shared stories that had been passed on to him, through generations, from shaman to shaman, from elders to children, about the Lost City / Ciudad Perdida. The stories told of its creation, the symbolism of the different terraces, and the Tayrona relationship with nature.

The indigenous people that inhabit the area around the Lost City in Colombia believe they are the symbolic “elder brothers,” there to protect both the sacred Sierra Nevada Mountains and their “younger brothers” – meaning the rest of us.

The sense of responsibility to the equilibrium and the good and health of others was evident.

Upper Terraces of Teyuna, Lost City Trek - Colombia
Approaching the upper chambers of the Lost City.

After your visit to Teyuna, the Lost City, you return to El Paraiso or Paso Lorenzto Camp (Campsite #3) for a quick lunch and begin your return all the way to Wiwa Camp (Campsite #2).

For us, we were met with an afternoon downpour that made it feel as though we were skiing through mud crevasses in the rain forest. We were glad for the experience. It was actually more delightful than it sounds as the rain was warm and everything around was so green and lush drinking in the much appreciated water.

Lost City Trek, Rains and Clouds in Sierra Nevada Mountains
After the rains, watching the clouds rise up through the hills.

Day 4 of the Lost City Trek

Start/Finish: Wiwa Camp (Campsite #2) to Machete and Santa Marta
Distance: 12.7km
This is another early rise since much of the trail is uncovered and therefore becomes quite hot as the day goes on. Try to make it as far as you’re able before the sun becomes too strong.

Lost City Trek, Hiking Day 1
Through a limestone path en route to Machete.

As you’ll remember from your first day, much of the trail is up or down, without much in between. After a stop for fruit at the first campsite and a jump in the swimming hole, you find yourself back where you began, with a celebratory lunch in Machete.

Then you'll transfer by vehicle to Santa Marta for a nice, hot shower and to reunite with the rest of your stuff.

Trail Head of Lost City Trek, Colombia
Back where we started, at the trail head sign in Machete.

Lost City Trek Difficulty and Hiking Conditions

We’d give this trek a medium-high difficulty ranking for all the reasons we’re about to elaborate. This means that you should not require special training to hike the Lost City Colombia trail, but you should be relatively active and in good physical shape.

You should either be accustomed to or be prepared for day-long treks with steep, slow uphill climbs and long walks in intense heat and humidity.

Lost City Trek is Not a Technical Trail

The Lost City Trek is not at all technical, meaning that you will not need any special equipment (e.g., climbing ropes or other fittings). The trail is well-maintained and for the most part, it’s an easy path to follow. But, it’s necessary to have a guide to navigate the rivers and some turns.

Lost City Trek, Tropical Forest Trails
Through the tropical forest on the way to the Lost City stairs.

You’ll have to cross a few streams or rivers — with river shoes on or with your shoes and socks in your hand — but that is part of the fun.

Altitude, Steep Hills and Valleys

Altitude is not really an issue, as the trek’s highest point is around 1,500 meters/4,920 feet. However, the Lost City trail seems to either be straight up or straight down without much flat so there's a lot of steep ascents and descents on the trail.

Our advice is to take it slow and steady on the uphill. Keep in mind that it’s not a race. It’s better to hike deliberately and slowly and take fewer breaks than to go quickly and wear yourself out with frequent and longer stops to recover.

Heat and Humidity

One of the challenges of the Lost City Colombia Trek is the combination of heat and humidity. I’m not sure we’ve ever poured sweat with such intensity and consistency. It actually felt great, like a cleansing process.

Just be sure that you drink plenty of water to replenish. Note that respite from the heat comes a couple of times a day in the form of rivers and swimming holes to jump into.

Bugs Along the Trail

Another challenge and irritation of this trek: bugs and their bites. There are lots of them, especially mosquitoes at the Lost City itself. We suggest applying plenty of bug repellent (bring on the DEET if you need to).

If you are especially susceptible to mosquito bites consider hiking in long trousers as Dan did. Finally, pick up a pack of generic B-complex tablets (“Compejo-B generico” runs 25 pills for $1.00) in a pharmacy in Santa Marta before the hike, as certain B vitamins are said to repel mosquitoes.

Another thing to watch out for are fleas and/or bedbugs in the hammocks and/or blankets at the campsites – this is where we collected most of our bug bites (especially campsite #2). We recommend carrying a sleep sack, so that you have another layer of protection while you are sleeping.

Finally, check your body closely for ticks when you emerge from the Lost City Trek. We each had a few on us; they are very tiny and difficult to see, so look closely. (Note: For advice on how to properly remove a tick, check out this article.)

Rain and Mud Along the Lost City Trail

We had been warned plenty about rain and mud, but didn’t find wet weather too much of a hindrance. Yes, it rained from time to time (usually mid-afternoon), but it was often so hot anyway that the cool rain was welcome.

Be certain any valuable electronic gear is well-protected and any dry sleeping clothes are at least wrapped in plastic (e.g., ziploc, garbage bags or a dry sack) inside your backpack. Then, have an outer backpack cover to protect your backpack from the elements.

Mud along Lost City Trek, Colombia
A little rain and mud just adds to the excitement.

If you fall in the mud, just go with the flow and don’t think about it too much. You can always wash yourself and your clothes later.

Best Time to Hike the Lost City Trail

While you will experience heat and humidity almost all year round in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of northern Colombia as it is a rain forest, there is still a rainy and dry season. December through March is considered the dry season and so it often is considered the bet time to hike the Lost City Trek.

In general, May through September is considered the rainy season for the region. This means expect more downpours and higher river crossings. That doesn't mean that you should avoid those months altogether as the rain can be a welcome relief from the heat and provide an interesting experience. For example, we did our G Adventures Lost City Trek in early June and thought the few rainfalls were kind of pleasant and added to the experience.

Note: The Lost City Trail is usually closed in September for trail maintenance and to do upkeep on the campsites and other services.

Lost City Trek Food

You will certainly not go hungry on the Lost City Trek. Each group is assigned a cook and not only will you be served three large meals a day (e.g., fish and rice, pasta, chicken and potatoes), but you will also enjoy well-placed fruit stops along the trail. These are very welcome for the additional boost of energy and hydration just when you need it.

Eating Along the Lost City Trek
Enrique, our cook, made us a feast every dinner.

If you are vegetarian or have food restrictions (e.g., gluten or lactose free), alert your trekking company and your guide in advance so they can respond accordingly.

Lost City Trek Campsites and Sleeping

There are a handful of different campsites along the way that the tour companies use. We can only speak firsthand to the ones that we stayed in — Adán Camp, Wiwa Camp, and El Paraiso — but we understand that the other campsites are quite similar in design, comfort and services.

Not always, but often, you’ll have an option to sleep in a hammock or on a mattress/bed (both with mosquito nets). We always chose the hammocks, but some may prefer mattresses.

Lost City Trek, Sleeping Arrangements
Sleeping along the Lost City Trek. Hammocks covered with mosquito nets.

There are cold water showers and flush toilets at all the campsites. Clotheslines will be strung around so you’ll be able to hang up your wet clothes from the day. However, the rain forest is damp so do not expect anything to fully dry overnight, if at all.

Evenings also get cool, so keep a long-sleeved shirt or fleece jacket handy at night.

Organizing a Lost City Tour: Your Options

Choosing a trekking operator

You cannot do the Lost City Trek independently (at this time), meaning you must go with one of the four or five authorized tour operators. We took our Lost City Trek with G Adventures and can highly recommend the experience.

G Adventures work with a local organization that provides indigenous guides so that their travelers are able to learn about the indigenous cultures and communities still living in the Sierra Nevada mountain area.

Regardless of which operator you choose to take you on the Lost City Trek, we suggest you select one that works with indigenous guides. The cultural and living history background is essential to a full Lost City Colombia experience.

How many days do you need for the Lost City Trek?

Most trekking operators offer four-, five- or six-day trek options. We did the Lost City Trek in four days, but now all the standard G Adventures Lost City Trek offerings are five days. As the route is the same, the main difference is that a five-day trek includes a relaxed day #2 with only a few hours of trekking to the second campsite.

As for the six-day option, we can’t really imagine taking that much time to do the trek. But if you are worried about your trekking abilities and stamina then talk with an operator regarding what they suggest.

Leaving your luggage behind during the trek

Most accommodation and tour operators/trekking agencies will allow you to leave your big bags or luggage with them for the few days that you're doing the Lost City Trek. We left our big backpacks at our hotel in Santa Marta and we saw other travelers leave their bags at the tour operator/trekking agency office.

Lost City Trek Essential Gear and Packing List

Much of what we include in our Hiking Essentials Checklist holds true for the Lost City Trek. However, we offer a customized Lost City Trek packing list with recommended hiking gear for this specific hiking experience. The goal is to ensure you have what you need for the tropical rain forest conditions but that don't overpack and weigh yourself down with a heavy backpack.

While there is the option on some of the route to hire a mule to carry luggage and belongings, it's best not to count on it. You should pack and plan as if you will be carrying your pack the entire length of the trail.

Trust us, pack light. You’ll quickly begin to feel the extra weight going up those steep hills.

Hiking Backpack for the Lost City Trek

When we did our Lost City Trek we just repurposed our regular travel and laptop daypacks. This worked fine at the time, but since then we have invested in real hiking backpacks that fit our backs better and don't cause any aches and pains in the shoulders or back.

Here are two recommended options for hiking backpacks that will fit the hiking clothing and gear you need, but not be too big or bulky:

  • Women's Hiking Backpack: I have a larger version of this Deuter ACT Trail Pro SL Backpack (22-Liters) and love it. The SL backpacks are designed for women's bodies and I find this backpack fits me really well, is well designed with its own backpack cover and zippered areas, and is both light and sturdy.
  • Men's Hiking Backpack: Dan loves Osprey hiking backpacks as they fit his body type (e.g., tall) and back really well. He likes the Osprey Stratos 24-Liter Hiking Backpack for day hies or for multi-day hikes like this where you don't need to carry a lot of gear.

Refillable Water Bottle for Drinking Water

You will go through several liters of water each day (if not, then you’re not drinking enough) since you’ll be sweating constantly. Bring with you 1-2 refillable water bottles or a water bladder so that you always have at least one liter of water on you at all times.

Each campsite offers clean water, so you can refill your water bottles every couple of hours on the trail. If you really want to play it safe consider carrying with you a SteriPEN or sterilization drops.

Consider bringing electrolyte sports drink tablets or packets with you to help you replenish some of the minerals that you’ll sweat out each day. And let’s face it, sometimes drinking liters of water gets boring and you want some flavor.

Walking Stick

We highly recommend carrying a walking stick. We were very thankful for ours, especially when things got muddy and slippery. Hikers just finishing and on their way out of the trail donated their wooden sticks to us. If this doesn’t happen, then ask your guide for one and he will find a walking stick for you, or fashion one for you with his machete.

Alternatively, bring your own walking sticks (these are good travel-friendly walking sticks). We usually just use one stick each so a set of two is sufficient for two people.

Lost City Trek, Walking Stick
A walking stick, even a basic one like this, is essential for this trek.

Hiking Clothing for the Lost City Trek

You really don’t need much in the clothing department. Don’t worry about packing clean clothes for each day. You will be sweating buckets within minutes every morning of getting out on the trail.

Here’s what we suggest for hiking clothing and gear essentials:

  • 1 set of hiking clothes: T-shirt (preferably quick dry), shorts, hiking socks. This means you will wear the same clothes every day. Don’t worry about it. Everyone does it. And you’ll be thankful not to carry the weight of extra clothes.
  • Note: if mosquitoes love you, consider wearing hiking pants the whole time. Dan did this and it cut down on his mosquito bites considerably. If you are especially sun-sensitive, consider bringing a very light long-sleeved hiking shirt, but be aware that you may be warm.
  • Hiking shoes: We wore low-rise hiking shoes (his and hers) and these worked great for us. Other people wore light trainers, however some mid-ankle support is useful because of the pitch of the terrain.
  • 1 set of evening clothes for post-shower and sleep: T-shirt, long pants (or pajama bottoms), socks. To ensure these remain dry, pack them in a plastic bag or other impermeable container inside your backpack.
  • Extra t-shirt: Just in case.
  • Underwear for every day of your trek: With an extra pair thrown in for good measure, if you like. Recommended his and hers quick dry underwear for men and women.
  • Extra pair of socks: Just in case your first pair get soaked beyond comfort while rock jumping at the river crossings.
  • Bathing suit: Keep near the top of your backpack to have handy for swimming holes.
  • Long-sleeved shirt: For cool nights or sleeping (recommended his and hers).
  • Fleece jacket: For cool nights or sleeping (can double as a pillow, too).
  • Rain jacket (optional): We didn't use ours due to the heat and humidity. We appreciated the cool rain. Not to mention, a rain jacket in the tropics can feel like a personal sauna.
  • Flip-flops or river shoes: To use in river crossings, showers, and evenings when you wish to get out of your hiking shoes. Women's Tevas | Men's Tevas

Other Essential Hiking Gear

  • Waterproof backpack cover: You never know when a rainstorm will hit, so it’s essential to keep a rain cover for your backpack close at hand. Your guide will likely also have a supply of plastic garbage bags in case you need extra rain protection.
  • Quick-dry travel towel: To dry off after showers, and also after a swim. Hang it on the outside of your backpack in the morning so it dries quickly in the sun and air as you move.
  • Silk sleep sack: To provide an extra layer between you and the hammock (or mattress) and blanket. Fleas and other bugs in the hammocks bit us and other travelers we spoke to.
  • Headlamp: Most of the campsites do not have electricity, so be prepared. Carry your own headlamp to find your way to the toilet and to sort through your stuff at night in and around your hammock.
  • Silicone earplugs: A precaution in the case your camp has a snorer. We know from our Lost City experience that this can demolish a good night’s sleep.

Toiletries and Health Kit

You will have access to a shower every evening, and you will be so thankful for the cold water shower to wash away all the sweat and salt on your body from the day’s efforts.

  • Shampoo, soap, toothbrush and toothpaste: The basics.
  • Sunscreen: The higher the SPF, the better
  • Sunglasses: Of course.
  • Bug repellent: You will apply this frequently, especially at the Lost City itself. The mosquitoes there are big, aggressive and plenty.
  • Hand sanitizer: To be on the safe side.
  • Pack of tissues or toilet paper: The campsites all have toilet paper, but it’s always a good idea to carry a pack of tissues in case of messes, spills or emergencies.
  • Vitamin B Complex: Take one pill per day (called Complejo-B in Spanish, available at pharmacies in Colombia). Supposedly, mosquitoes don’t appreciate the smell and taste of your blood when B-1 Thiamine is present. It is debatable whether this really works to repel mosquitoes, but we appreciated using it and felt that it helped.
  • Foot care and blisters: Duct tape is very effective for hot spots and blisters on your feet. Also consider picking up some Compeed, which is magic when you already have blisters.
  • Medical Kit (for emergencies): Your guide will also have some basic first aid items with him, but it's always good to be prepared. Our basic medical kit includes: Band-Aids, anti-bacterial gel (for cuts), rehydration powders or electrolyte tablets, Azithromycin/Ciprofloxacin (or another medication against stomach bacteria), Tylenol/Panadol (anti-headache/aches), Immodium (or some sort of “stopper” if you get diarrhea), tea tree oil (great to apply to mosquito bites) Note: all these are easily and inexpensively purchased at local pharmacies, including in Santa Marta from where you depart for the trek.

Electricity and Charging Batteries

While a couple of the campsites do have electricity, it’s unreliable. Prepare yourself for not having access to electricity during the trek. Some tips to handle this and further your battery power.

  • Put your smartphone on airplane mode. There is no connectivity along the trek anyhow, so don't waste your phone’s battery power trying to find a network.
  • Consider buying a phone case that doubles as an extra battery. It provides another 1-1.5 charges.
  • Take an extra camera battery or two.
  • Don’t spent time reviewing your images, as this will eat up your battery power quickly. Unless you are reviewing images to determine whether you’ve captured a specific shot, there will be time enough for photo review when your trek is finished.

Have other questions about the Lost City Trek in Colombia? Just ask in the comments below and we’ll incorporate the information into the article so others may benefit.


Disclosure: Our Lost City trek was provided to us by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. As always, the thoughts contained herein — the what, the why, and the how — are entirely our own.

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Travel to St. Maarten: 18 Unusual Things to Do https://uncorneredmarket.com/st-maarten-experiential-travel-guide/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/st-maarten-experiential-travel-guide/#comments Thu, 20 Jan 2022 08:00:00 +0000 https://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=21643 At the end of last year as winter days grew shorter and the holidays approached, we set our sights on checking in with each other before we found ourselves immersed in the uptake of a new year. Taking off to the Caribbean to spend some time together away from our laptops, reflect on the past year and take a deep breath before a busy year ahead was just what we needed.

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Many people travel to St. Maarten / St. Martin for its Caribbean white sand beaches. While they are beautiful and all that you would expect from a Caribbean island, there are so many more things to do in Saint Maarten / Saint Martin than just its beaches. This travel guide shares 18 unusual things to do in St. Maarten / St. Martin drawn from ten days traveling all around the island with the goal of finding some of its more off-the-beaten path experiences and places.

Whether you’re traveling to St. Maarten / St. Martin as a standalone Caribbean island vacation or as an excursion from a cruise, you'll be sure to find something from our travel guide below with our favorite boat trips, outdoor activities, hikes, beaches, and day trips to make your visit memorable.

St. Martin beaches
Exploring St. Martin / St. Maarten beaches. Deservedly famous.

Visiting the Caribbean Island of St. Maarten / St. Martin

At the end of the year as winter days grew shorter and the Christmas holidays approached, we set our sights on checking in with each other before we found ourselves immersed in the uptake of a new year. Taking off to the Caribbean to spend some time together away from our laptops, reflect on the past year and take a deep breath before a busy year ahead was just what we needed.

It was with this frame of mind that we left our home base in Berlin mid-December for St. Maarten, the Dutch side of an island in the Caribbean divided in two with its French counterpart St. Martin.

Beautiful Caribbean Beaches
Caribbean beaches – long horizons and shades of blue.

While we weren't fully disconnected from the internet and the world during our time on St. Maarten, we found that removing ourselves from all that was familiar and routine — and giving ourselves a dose of sunshine and warmth — helped us to relax, gain some perspective, and enjoy time together as an ordinary married couple (i.e., not as business partners). Not to mention, a sort of decompression seems to occur naturally when staring out over water to the horizon for long periods of time.

In this way, pressing the pause button from time to time in one’s life creates space to disconnect, reconnect and to clarify what matters most.

Note: This post was originally published in February 2016 and updated in December 2024.

Going Off the Beaten Path in St. Maarten / St. Martin

The idea of this trip, as with most of our travels, was to go beyond the obvious — in this case, the beaches. This involved exploring both sides of the island — Dutch St. Maarten in the south and French St. Martin to the north – and following suggestions, on and off the tourist trail, to experiences that would move us.

The cliché of white sand Caribbean beaches stretching along dazzling, turquoise water is far too accurate. We were tempted to park ourselves on one of the several we sampled, and never leave. But we also knew there was more to discover and things to do in St. Maarten than appears on the surface.

Next, we would be fibbing if we told you that St. Maarten / St. Martin is not heavily touristy. It would be very easy to visit and only see the developed and trafficked areas of the island and draw your experience and conclusions from there, but dig a bit deeper and you’ll find a dimension to the island that few others see. On several occasions we found ourselves surrounded by rugged natural beauty, without a soul around.

Things to Do in St. Maarten, Hiking
Resorting to a selfie; nobody else around to take our photo along the Sentier des Froussards trek.

We enabled our experience of St. Maarten in full by talking with as many people as we could. Our goal: to connect with and better understand this island of 80,000 inhabitants that welcomes an astonishing 3.7 million travelers a year, and to uncover a diversity of experiences that speak to both adventure and relaxation.

That’s where this travel guide filled with unusual things to do in St. Maarten / St. Martin comes in. Pick and choose from the experiences below to piece together a St. Maarten travel itinerary that best suits your travel goals and interests, from boat trips to beaches to hiking to adventure activities.

18 Unusual Things to Do, See and Experience in St. Maarten / St. Martin

As you go through our recommended boat trips, beaches, hikes, tours, and things to do in Saint Maarten / Saint Martin below you'll notice that they are mostly activities that take place outdoors, in nature and away from crowds. This reflects what we did and our personal recommendations.

Some of the following experiences and activities we paid for ourselves and some were provided free to us (as indicated below). Some we learned about by talking with locals or long-time residents, and others we discovered on our own. In other words, we tried to learn as much as we could about St. Maarten/St. Martin and experience it to the fullest in the ten days we had.

A note on costs: Prices for experiences vary slightly depending upon season (high or low), number of people in the group, and other factors. Legend: $ = up to $50, $$ = $50-$100, $$$ = $100-$150, $$$$ = $150+

1. Race at sea and take the controls of a real America's Cup boat with the 12-Metre Challenge.

Yes, this experience can take you on THE winning boat from the 1987 America’s Cup, the Stars & Stripes. This alone is kind of exciting. Board the boat, and each of your group is assigned a crew position. From there, you get a quick lesson, you practice a bit, the helmsman issues the commands and with a traditional 6-minute start, it’s off to the races.

You witness and participate firsthand in the teamwork required to make a craft like this take flight on the water. This became even more evident – and dramatic — as we sailed right into a brief tropical storm with the wind whipping the sails and our boat carving slightly terrifying angles.

What really set this experience apart, however, was the competition. We raced against another America’s Cup boat (True North, from Canada) under standard regatta regulations, giving us a wee taste of the adrenaline of an actual race.

St. Maarten Sailing Adventure
The 12-Metre Challenge, returning to shore after a successful race.

The only danger with this experience is that it may make you want to take sailing lessons and rent your own sailboat to go around the Caribbean. Not that we speak from experience or anything…

If you only have one day in St. Maarten as an excursion from your cruise, consider this activity. It has the right mix of adrenaline, being out on the open waters and fun.

How to do it: The 12 Metre Challenge is located at Dock Maarten, Philipsburg. Note: Cruise ship passengers must book through their cruise line. Cost: $$ Disclosure: This experience was provided to us as media.

2. Day trip to Shoal Bay, Anguilla to relax on the #1 ranked beach in the Caribbean.

On our first day in St. Maarten we heard Shoal Bay beach described to us as “heaven on earth.” That the recommendation came from a long-time resident with experience throughout the Caribbean told us we must go. But we’ve been to plenty of “best beaches,” so we managed our expectations.

Anguilla Beach, Shoal Bay
Shoal Bay blues, with a side of paddle boarding.

Shoal Bay Beach over-delivered. Not only was the beach a carpet of soft, pristine white sand, but the light and water played a range of blue shades of the likes we’d never before seen, except for glaciers in Antarctica. The blue glow can appear almost artificial and HDR’d, but it’s not. It’s simply the way Mother Nature worked out in this part of the world. Now we understand why this beach is ranked #1 in the Caribbean and #5 worldwide.

The other notable feature of this beach during our visit: it was almost empty. The restaurant where our tour went was a simple, local family-run establishment, which lent a fitting and traditional laid-back Caribbean feel.

Anguilla Shoal Bay Beach
Shoal Bay Beach, Anguilla – a little slice of nostalgia and Caribbean beach life.

How to do it: We took a day trip package that included a speedboat from St. Maarten (dock near the airport) to Anguilla + bus transfer to/from Shoal Bay + lunch + free use of beach equipment such as snorkel gear and paddle boards. Cost: $$$ Disclosure: This experience was provided to us as media.

Other day trip options to Anguilla from St. Maarten include:

  • Catamaran to Prickly Pear and Anguilla islands (8 hours): This day trip sails along the coast of St. Maarten and visits both Prickly Pear and Anguilla Islands so you can swim in the clear waters and enjoy the beaches in both places. Departs in the morning from Simpson Bay. Price includes a BBQ lunch.
  • Private speed boat from St. Maarten to Anguilla (8 hours): Enjoy a private excursion to Anguilla to enjoy the beauty of Shoal Bay beach and nearby Sandy Island and the clear waters of Crocus Bay. Enjoy complementary champagne and drinks. You'll have flexibility with your day as you'll have your own captain and guide to help create a memorable private trip experience.
  • Speed boat day trip to Anguilla (6 hours) that includes stops in Cap Juluca, Sandy Island, and Little Bay in Anguilla to go swimming and enjoy lunch (included in price). On the return you stop by Maho Beach in St. Maarten to watch the planes land just above you at the airport (see #3 above). Departs in the morning from Cole Bay, St. Maarten.

Remember that Anguilla is a different country so be sure to bring your passport and $20 for the clearance and customs fees.

3. Get away from it all with a hike in Guana Bay.

It’s easy to get caught up in St. Maarten tourist trail areas and question, “Is this all there is to the island?” However, a short drive over the hill to the southeastern corner of the island and Guana Bay served as our first glance at a different sort of St. Maarten / St. Martin.

Hiking on St. Maarten
Hiking in Guana Bay with our guide, Joost.

The trek from Guana Bay to Pointe Blanche is one of the areas on the island where you'll find yourself surrounded by rugged natural beauty without a soul around, save perhaps for a few goats.

How to do it: You can do this Guana Bay hike with Tri-Sport. They offer a couple of departures each day during high season. We recommend choosing the morning departure (9AM) as you’ll avoid the strong heat and sunshine. Joost, our guide, provided terrific historical and environmental context. Not to mention, he’s a font of useful information and recommendations for other treks in St. Maarten. Cost: $ Disclosure: This experience was provided to us as media.

4. Drive a Rhino along the western coast of St. Martin.

“I designed this myself and it’s impossible to tip. That’s why we call it a Rhino,” Oliver, the owner of Rhino Safaris explained when we first arrived. He did this so that everyone – from children to 90+ year olds – could enjoy the experience.

I had memories of tipping a jet ski on a college break many years ago, so I was of relieved to find out this hybrid Jet Ski/zodiac could not be flipped. It took a few minutes to get used to the Rhino and what it could do in terms of speed, turns, and tricks, but once we did, it was fun and addictive.

Things to do in St. Maarten, Drive a Rhino
Driving a “rhino” up the western coast of St. Maarten.

Additionally, having spent time sitting in traffic driving the western part of the island, it was a pleasant change to enjoy the same areas from the freedom of the water.

How to do it: The “Rhino Safari” departs from Simpson Bay just behind Pineapple Pete’s restaurant. The tour includes not only driving your own Rhino up the western coast, but also snorkeling at Creole Rock at the northern end of the island. Cost: $$ Disclosure: This experience was provided to us as media.

5. Marvel at the planes landing over Maho Bay beach.

Never have we been to a destination where the airport is such a tourist attraction. But sit on or near the beach at Maho Bay and you’ll quickly understand why. The photo below pretty much says it all. It looks Photoshopped, but it’s not.

St. Maarten Airplane Watching
Extreme plane watching at Maho Bay, St. Maarten.

How to do it: While you can stand on the beach to watch the planes land overhead, we recommend Sunset Bar as an ideal spot to capture a photo without the jet blast. The surfboard outside the bar is updated daily with the flight schedule. Or you can check out the arrival schedule at SXM airport and try to figure out which flights will have the biggest planes.

Good looks can also be had from Driftwood Bar on the other side of the beach. Air France flies the largest jets (i.e., most dramatic landings and photos).

Book a tour to watch the planes land over Maho Bay: If you have limited time in St. Maarten, consider booking a plane viewing day trip that will transfer you from the port in Philipsburg to Maho Bay so you can enjoy some time on the beach and see the planes landing. Alternatively, you can arrange a half-day trip in St. Maarten that will take you to Orient Beach and then to watch the planes at Maho Bay.

6. Enjoy the sunset and a rum punch on a catamaran.

There’s something naturally calming about staring out over the sea at a sunset as the glow of the sun melts into the water. Now, do that same thing with from the webbed deck of a catamaran with a rum punch in your hand and you’ll find yourself exhaling – literally and figuratively — even deeper.

St. Maarten Sunset Cruise
Sunset cruise. Not pictured: rum punch in hand.

How to do it: Aquamania offers sunset and dinner catamaran trips on Wednesday and Friday evenings, departing from Simpson Bay Resort marina at 5:30 PM and returning at 8:30 PM. Alternatively, you can choose this shorter sunset cruise (1.5 hours) with daily departures that includes drinks and snacks, but not a full dinner. Cost: $$ Disclosure: This experience was provided to us as media.

7. Wake up early and go for a run (or stroll) at Cupecoy Bay and enjoy a Caribbean beach all to yourself.

If running isn’t your thing, then swap it with walking or cycling. Whatever you do, get up early and head to the cliffs. You’ll be rewarded not only with the soft glow of early morning light, but also with a Caribbean beach to yourself.

Empty St. Maarten Beach
The view from our running path, from Maho Bay to Cupecoy Bay, St. Maarten.

8. Get above it all at Pic Paradis.

There is something about making your way to the highest point to get some perspective. Having an aerial view of St. Maarten (and St. Martin) from the lookout at Pic Paradis, the highest point on the island at 1,391ft / 424m, helps you see the contours of the land and how all of the places you’ve visited fit together.

St Maartin Pic Paradis
Pic Paradis, enjoying the view from the top of St. Martin.

How to do it: In our rental car we followed the Pic Paradis signs from the main road between Marigot and Grand Case and parked on the side of the road up the hill from Loterie Farm (it was closed the day we visited, Monday). From there it was a relatively short, but steep, walk to the top. Alternatively, if you have a 4-wheel-drive car you can drive virtually the entire way to the peak and lookout.

9. Cross the border and practice your French.

One of the things that attracted us to St. Maarten/St. Martin was that the island has been divided between the French and the Dutch for over 350 years. Today, the Dutch side is an independent country, while the French side remains a territory of France. We wondered what that would look and feel like.

St. Maarten Border
Crossing the border, St. Martin style.

While there are no border controls between the sides and countries, you’ll still see signs posted across the island welcoming you each time you cross. Cross from the Dutch side north and you’ll have a chance to practice your French. You’ll also see a different style of architecture and town planning. Not to mention, the bread and pastries are unsurprisingly better on the French side of the border.

10. Chill out at Mullet Bay beach.

There is no shortage of postcard-like beaches to choose from on the island. One of our favorites for relaxing, swimming and sunning was Mullet Bay. Since there's a golf course on one side of the beach, it is somewhat protected from development and the shadow of any large buildings.

St. Maarten Beaches, Mullet Bay
Mullet Bay beach in the morning.

Of course, we aren’t the only ones to have discovered this beach. But, we noticed that if we went before noon or after 3PM it emptied as day passengers returned to the cruise ships. Ideal for a morning read or late afternoon nap.

A note on St. Maarten / St. Martin beaches: All beaches on the island are public, meaning that you have access to try any one you’d like. Some beaches have sun chairs and umbrellas for hire, usually organized by restaurants or bars, but you have the right to plunk your beach towel at random and enjoy the beach for free.

11. Bicycle to Fort Amsterdam.

With so much of St. Maarten covered in new buildings and developments (something like 90% of the island was destroyed by Hurricane Luis in 1995), we were curious to learn more about its history and the strategic role the island played in the colonial wrangling between the Spanish, Dutch and French empires over the centuries. This is where the historical bicycle tour of Philipsburg with Barend, our guide, helped fill in the gaps.

St. Maarten Philipsburg History
Philipsburg bicycle tour leads us to Fort Amsterdam.

One of the focal points of the bicycle tour is 17th century Fort Amsterdam, originally built by the Dutch, then lost to the Spanish and successfully defended to ward off a return Dutch invasion. The Dutch leader from that lost the fight (and his right leg), Peter Stuyvesant, went on to become mayor of New Amsterdam. Eventually he traded New Amsterdam (now, New York) to the British for the wee island of Curacao, in perhaps the very first of the worst of Wall Street deals. This story reinforces how the islands are historically more connected to our present day circumstances than we realize.

Additionally, the bicycle tour takes you through Back Street, Philipsburg. While the souvenir shops and tourist restaurants in Philipsburg harbor and Front Street may feel overwhelming, this residential area just a few blocks away will give you a sense of what the island might have looked like before the rebuilding and tourism boom. Many traditional homes have remained in the hands of the same family for multiple generations.

Walking Back Street of Philipsburg, St. Maarten
Worth the effort to walk to Back Street to experience the contrast between the two Philipsburgs.

How to do it: The historical bicycle tour with TriSport leaves from the cruise ship harbor in Philipsburg. There’s a choice of several departures, but we recommend taking the early one (8:30 AM) to beat the heat and the crowds. If you would like a more challenging ride, check out the other bicycle tours offered. Cost: $-$$ Disclosure: This experience was provided to us as media.

12. Scuba dive at Saba island and swim with sea turtles in coral gardens.

“I’m sorry. It looks like visibility isn’t as great as it usually is,” Bob, our dive master, apologized to us before we descended to the dive site known as Tent Reef.

A few minutes later we swam over coral gardens bursting with colorful coral and fish. We encountered sea turtles noshing on jelly fish, and saw puffer, parrot and lion fish dart in and around the reef. I thought: “Hmm, if this is considered ‘bad' visibility, I can’t imagine what ‘good' must look like.”

Saba Scuba Diving
Scuba diving off of Saba island.

Diving in Saba was a top priority for us as we’d heard that the dive sites there are considered some of the best in the Caribbean. It took a little logistical juggling, but we did find a way to combine two dives there within a day trip from St. Maarten. The only downside of this plan is that you don’t have time to explore the island itself. There are supposed to be some gorgeous coastal treks, so consider extending your Saba trip to several days.

How to go scuba diving in Saba: There are ferries that offer day trips from St. Maarten to Saba that run most days in high season. Edge offers a day trip package to Saba with round-trip ferry service, hiking and the option for scuba diving. Makana Ferry goes to Saba in the late afternoon/early evening in case you want to spend a couple of nights there. The ride takes 1.5 hours and can get rough. If you get seasick easily, consider taking some motion sickness medicine or carry Sea Bands.

We arranged our dive in advance with Saba Divers. They meet you at the ferry, check your Padi certification, gear you up, manage two dives, and get you back to the ferry for the late afternoon return to St. Maarten. Fun and experienced dive masters. Cost: $$$$

Saba Covid Travel Requirements (November 2022): No requirements now for proof of vaccination, negative test or EHAS form.

How to go scuba diving in St. Maarten: If you want to go diving, but don't have the time to go all the way to Saba for the day consider doing a half-day double tank drive in St. Maarten instead. The dive staff will choose the dive site based on weather and visibility that morning so that you're diving in optimum conditions. If you haven't been diving within the last year, it's recommended to start with a shallow dive as a refresher.

If you don't have your PADI certificate, but want to get a feel for scuba diving and being underwater, then you can do a 3-hour Discover Scuba tour that introduces you to scuba diving and all of its gear in shallow waters. This is a great way to test out scuba diving in clear Caribbean waters.

13. Taste rum at a local distillery.

“I used to experiment with flavored rums in my kitchen to make gifts for friends or for guests at my husband’s restaurant. After I decided to do this professionally, I taught myself enough Mandarin to navigate the factories in China to get the bottle design exactly as I wanted it. I’ve always been hands-on,” Melanie, co-founder of Topper’s Rhum, laughed as she explained the genesis of her rum business.

Teaching yourself “enough” Mandarin is no easy feat, but this focus on detail fit with what we saw and tasted during our visit to the distillery.

St. Maarten Rum Tasting
Rum tasting at Topper's Rhum distillery.

Melanie has been successful with her current lineup of white, spiced, coconut and flavored rums like white chocolate raspberry. Her experiences continue with new flavors in her office-cum-laboratory. The coconut rum was our favorite for drinking straight, but we later sampled the Mocha Mama (think Kahlua without the cream) over vanilla ice cream. Nice!

How to do it: Topper’s Rhum now offers distillery tours for the public. Otherwise, you can sample (and buy) any of the rums at one of the two Topper’s restaurants.

14. Practice Your Tanning Skills at Orient Bay.

On our first night in St. Maarten we asked our waitress, Samantha, which beach on the island was her favorite. Her quick response: “Orient Bay. I didn’t realize how lucky we are to have this beach until I left the island and visited other places. I love it.”

St. Maarten Beaches, Orient Bay
Time to brush up on tanning skills, Orient Bay.

Located on the French side of the island east, the beach at Orient Bay is long, wide and lined with restaurants and cafes that offer beach chairs and umbrellas. It’s more of a place to “be seen” than Mullet Bay, but it’s not too over-the-top. It also features beach segments that are clothing optional, so if nude bathing is your thing, this is the place to be…or to be seen.

15. Enjoy scenes of local life in Grand Case.

Grand Case is on the French side of the island and has more of a local feel to it than some of the other areas of the island that have been built up for tourism. It's a good place to park your car and wander the streets and pier for these glimpses of local life…like school kids jumping off the pier or playing in the surf along the beach.

There is something so light and innocent about the scene. Listen to the giggles and feel the energy. An inimitable local sight and memory.

Grand Case Beach, St. Martin
School kids play in the sea in late afternoon light. Grand Case, St. Martin

How to do it: Park your car in the public parking lot on the north end of the main street in Grand Case. Walk out by the pier behind the cluster of outdoor grill restaurants. Plenty of food options here, too, from the informal grills at the beach side to more formal French restaurant options along what is known as “Restaurant Row.”

16. Kayak through the mega yacht harbor to the mangroves.

St. Maarten is one of THE places in the Caribbean for yachts and boats of the “mega” variety to be docked. So it’s a fun juxtaposition – not to mention great perspective — to paddle through the nautical playground of the rich and famous before coming back down to earth with the jellyfish and sea cucumbers in the mangroves.

St. Maarten Kayaking
Kayaking through the mega-yachts of Simpson Bay lagoon.

How to do it: Tri-Sport usually offers a lagoon kayak tour a couple of times a day. We recommend choosing either the early morning or late afternoon option to avoid the heat of the midday sun. Chris, one of the guides, is a St. Maarten local so he can advise you on anything you might want to know about the island, including local food. Cost: $-$$ Disclosure: This experience was provided to us as media.

Grab a Johnny Cake at Hilma’s and ask her about Anthony Bourdain and her 40+ years on the island.

Update: Hilma's Windsor Castle was destroyed by Hurricane Irma in 2017. We are keeping the entry below in honor of Hilma, her spirit…and her johnny cakes.

Although a separate section below is devoted to recommended dining and island eats, we include Hilma’s (technically, Hilma’s Windsor Castle) because eating at one of the four stools is an experience well beyond the food. Hilma has been operating from a converted trailer on the same spot in Simpson Bay for 22 years, and she’s lived on the island for more than 40. She purposely keeps operations deliberately small and personal for manageability. She has so many stories to tell, so plan some time for a conversation or two.

St. Maarten, People You Meet
The always smiling Hilma of Windsor Castle food stand in Simpson Bay.

“I was all by myself when I first started here. None of this was here,” Hilma told us as she looked out over the road now filled to the brim on both sides with restaurants and shops. When we asked her about Anthony Bourdain, she confirmed, “Yes, he used to come here often. He vacationed here before he became really famous. He’s eaten everything here. The advice he gave me was to not change, that I should stay true to my roots.”

Sage advice.

How to do it: You can find Hilma’s Windsor Castle on the lot between the RBC Bank and Jerusalem / The Palms restaurants on Airport Road in Simpson Bay. Hilma is open Monday to Saturday from 7:30AM – 2:00PM.

17. Hike the northern coastline at Sentier des Froussards.

This hike and the northern coastline of St. Martin falls under the “hidden” and “I had no idea something like this existed on the island” categories. We woke up early to do the trek Sentier de Froussards hike (from Anse Marcel to Eastern Point and back) during our last morning on the island. A rather ideal way to end our travels in St. Maartin / St. Martin.

The hike consists of a surprisingly beautiful and secluded 3-mile footpath out along the northern coast of the island and features a couple of bathing-worthy beaches, rugged coastline and fabulous windswept landscape.

St. Martin Northern Coast Hike
Hiking the northern coast of St. Martin along the Sentier de Froussards path.

How to do it: Big thanks to Joost from TriSport for recommending this trek to us. Drive towards Anse Marcel and after coming over the big hill (and before entering the marina and resort area) turn to the right where you see a small trekking sign and parking lot.

You’ll walk a ways on a dirt road before reaching the trailhead on the right. Go very early (arrive around 7:30AM) to avoid the traffic and heat. En route to Anse Marcel from the south, fetch yourself a pain au chocolat or croissant from the boulangerie on the right side of the N7 main road in Grand Case.

18. Throw open the curtains at sunrise…and realize how fortunate you are.

This began my morning routine. I noticed it most on that final day, perhaps because it marked the final time I would feel it this trip.

It was the combination of the sound of the curtains moving on their track along with the reveal of the morning, the water, the horizon, the sun, a new day. The sensory combination of sight and sound of our morning routine foreshadowed the day to come and offered a moment to reflect on what we have, here and now.

This is a lesson for life. One reaffirmed on the island.

Day Trips and Excursions in St. Maartin / St. Martin

Our partners, Get Your Guide and Viator, offer many St. Maarten tours, day trips and tickets for attractions. They guarantee lowest prices with no booking fees or hidden charges, as well as information on Covid hygiene and safety precautions. In addition to confirming your place and avoiding lines by pre-booking, you can cancel up to 24 hours before in case your plans change.

Although we've made quite a few recommendations above for activities, excursions and tay trips, we also wanted to share some other interesting St. Maarten tours and day trips.

  • Speed boat tour around St. Maarten and St. Martin with snorkeling, beaches and lunch: This 6-hour tour around St. Maarten by speed boat takes you to both the Dutch and French sides. You'll have a chance to visit Tintamarre, an uninhabited island within the French Nature Reserve, that is only accessible by boat where you'll have a chance to see sea turtles and sting rays. Other stops include Pinel Island to swim and enjoy a relaxing lunch under palm trees, Creole Rock for snorkeling, Mullet Bay for another stunning beach, and finally to see the jets land over your head at Princess Juliana International Airport (see above).
  • Private charter catamaran trip around St. Maarten: Perfect for families or groups of friends traveling together who want a bit of privacy and luxury. This is a full-day charter (9 hours) that not only includes stops with snorkeling and swimming at Tintamarre Island, Long Bay La Samana, and Happy Bay, but also a gourmet 4-course lunch and open bar. If you're thinking of a splurge during your visit to St. Maarten, this is a good choice.
  • Day tour around St. Martin / St. Maarten with a local guide: This 5-hour tour around both the French and Dutch sides of the island with a local guide sounds quite interesting as it focuses on topics related to the history and resilience of the island and its people, especially as the island was badly destroyed recently during Hurricaine Irma. It stops in several places on the French side like Grand Case, Marigot, and Fort St. Louis, as well as Maho Bay and Philipsburg on the Dutch side.
  • Sailing and Snorkeling Trip Along St. Martin's Coast (5 hours): If you want to maximize your time on the water and see St. Martin / St. Maarten from the sea, this sailing day trip on a trimaran (i.e., it has three hulls vs. two as in a catamaran) is a good option. The journey will take you up the southwestern coast of St. Martin and up the Anguilla Channel, and you'll stop along the way for swimming and snorkeling. Departs from Nowhere Special Restaurant right next to the St. Maarten Yacht Club. Lunch included.
  • St. Maarten hiking and snorkeling nature tour (4 hours): This nature tour combines a couple of our recommendations above – going up to Pic Paradis for panoramic views, taking a hike or nature walk, and snorkeling in the clear waters below — in a nice half-day time period. With your local guide you'll have a chance to learn a bit more about the island's biodiversity and the different species of animals above and below water. A good and active introduction to the island's nature if you are on an excursion or only have a short time.

Where to Stay in St. Maarten / St. Martin

For the ten days we visited St. Maarten, our home was the Morgan Resort (previously, the Alegria Boutique Hotel) in Maho Bay, just walking distance from the famous beach where airplanes fly overhead to land at the Princess Juliana airport (See #4 above).

St. Maarten Hotel, Morgan Resort
Sunset view from our balcony at Alegria Boutique Hotel.

From what we can tell on the Morgan Resort website, the rooms have been renovated and upgraded considerably, into more of a luxury stay. There are still some suites available if you want a bit more room. Book a room at Morgan Resort Spa and Village.

St. Maarten Hotels and Apartments

Whether you are traveling to St. Maarten as a standalone vacation or starting your cruise from there, you may want to stay on the Dutch side of the island for a few days. The St. Maarten hotels and apartments below are conveniently located and in quieter, less developed areas. We think of them as good places to base yourself to explore the island.

Hotels in Maho Bay – Cupecoy Bay – Simpson Bay

These locations are all pretty close to the airport. We enjoyed staying in Maho Bay as it was a bit removed from a lot of the more built up areas and we had easy access to Mullet Bay and Cupecoy Bay beaches. Plus, we could always pop down to one of the nearby bars to see the planes land overhead at the airport. Not many activities start in Maho Bay, so t means that you'll need to add in driving or transfer time at the beginning and end of the day. Some of the activities and tours above start in or near Simpson Bay so it is a bit closer.

  • El Zafiro Boutique Hotel: This is very close to where we stayed in St. Maarten and is located right on the beach so you'll have good views of both the coast and mountains from your room. Convenient for watching planes land at SXM airport.
  • Adonis Cupecoy Hotel: Located in a good position not far from Cupecoy Bay (see #2 above), Maho Bay (see #4) and Simpson Bay with some restaurants and shopping nearby, but it's still a quieter, less developed part of St. Maarten.
  • The Horny Toad Guest House: If you want your own apartment or studio with a kitchenette, seating area and terrace, then this is a good option right on Simpson Bay Beach. Close to the airport and you are walking distance from local restaurants.

Hotels in Philipsburg and Eastern St. Maarten

The little town of Philipsburg might be a fun place to base yourself as it has some historic areas, a beach and nearby restaurants and shops you can walk to. Plus, you're not too far from Guana Bay Beach (see #3 above) and can explore Fort Amsterdam easily. If you're coming to St. Maarten early for a cruise, Philipsburg is conveniently located near the cruise terminal and port.

  • Alicia Inn: A good budget option right in the middle of Philipsburg so close to the restaurants, shops and beach. Public transport is also located nearby if you don't have a car and want to explore by local bus.
  • Bay View Apartment: A little outside of town in the hills with views over Great Bay and the Atlantic Ocean below. This is a full apartment so you have everything you need to feel at home on the island. A good place if you want a bit of quiet and privacy.

St. Martin Hotels and Apartments: Staying on the French Side

Next time we visit the island we might stay on the French side for a change of pace as there is less tourism development and fewer big resorts.

  • Sunshine Studios, Grand Case: Although our time in Grand Case was short, we really liked the feel of the place as it had more of a local lived in vibe than many of the other more tourism oriented places on the island. And, it's near “Restaurant Row” if you want to enjoy some French cuisine on your visit to St. Martin. The studios here also include kitchens so you can also enjoy self-catering and eating on your balcony.
  • Happy Residence, Orient Bay: Located on Orient Bay Beach, one of our favorite beaches on the island. The apartment has a kitchen and everything you need, but it is also located walking distance to other restaurants and shops.
  • Tiko Lodge, Oyster Pond: In the eastern side of the island close to Babit Point Natural Reserve, which is good for hiking, and not far from Orient Bay. The lodge offers rooms or apartments, and views over the water. Although quiet and remote, there are still restaurants nearby that are walking distance.

Where to Eat in St. Maarten

As we stayed in St. Maarten, the Dutch side of the island, we took all of our meals there. Much of the food in this part of the island is international, a reflection of both the people who now call this island home and the demographic of the tourists that visit it.

If you are interested in traditional French cuisine, however, then head up to “Restaurant Row” in Grand Case on the northwestern side of the island in St. Martin. We didn’t have the opportunity to eat there during this trip as were often there too early for dinner, but the menus posted outside were very similar to what you might see in France.

Long-time European residents confirmed the quality of the restaurants in Grand Case is also top notch and recommended: Auberge Gourmande, Bistro Caribe, Sol e Luna, Ocean 82 and Tastevin. Our quick look at the Auberge Gourmande menu told us this is the place we’d likely visit, but we might be swayed by what is fresh and the plat du jour elsewhere.

Top Carrot, Simpson Bay

Vegetarians and vegans delight. If salads, vegetables, juices and healthy eating are your thing then this is your place. The focus at Top Carrot: fresh ingredients, either grown on the island (when possible) or just off the boat from nearby Dominica. Specials change daily.

After each meal, not only were we truly satisfied, but we also left feeling as though we’d done our bodies a favor. The French co-owner, Lydia, is usually there and has some great stories from living on the island for 20+ years. She’s exceedingly kind, too.

St. Maarten Restaurants, Top Carrot
Vegetable goodness at Top Carrot.

Recommended dishes: Baked goat cheese (St Marcellin) salad, veggie wrap and mahi mahi with passion fruit sauce and caramelized onions (daily special, was terrific). Where to find Top Carrot Restaurant: 3200 W South Airport Rd (near Simpson Bay Marina), Simpson Bay.

The Palms, Simpson Bay

What happens when a Canadian Trinidadian opens restaurant in St Maarten? You get Caribbean favorites like drunken ribs and Trinidadian bites served in a Canadian (and Torontonian) paraphernalia flair. You get The Palms. Greg, the owner, and his mother change the menu daily based on what’s fresh. He's also a great resource for other restaurant recommendations and tips for the island.

Recommended dishes: Drunken ribs and pholourie, spiced split pea flour puff fritters with house special cumin-tamarind sauce. Rib portions are large, so consider splitting one between two people or pair with an appetizer instead of a 2nd main dish.

Where to find The Palms restaurant: 25 Airport Road in Simpson Bay (near RBC Bank).

Sunset Bar, Maho Bay

Sunset Bar features a prime location next to Maho Bay beach, making it the viewing lounge of choice for oglers of airplanes landing at SXM airport (see #4 above). It’s also good for sunset gazing with a drink in hand.

Recommended dishes: Most people come here to drink rather than eat, but we found the seared tuna atop salad greens to be really abundant, nicely-cooked and fresh. Consider asking for the dressing on the side.

Where to find it: Maho Bay, just behind the runway for the airport. Disclosure: Our first meal here was provided to us.

Driftwood Boat Bar, Maho Bay

If you’re looking for a tasty, cheap eats on St. Maarten, we can vouch for the chicken schwarma sandwich at Driftwood Boat Bar. A healthy chunk of grilled, spiced chicken covered with lots of vegetables and dressing.

The location also offers another venue to watch the planes land at the airport in case the Sunset Bar on the other end of Maho Bay is packed. Where to find the Driftwood Boat Bar: Maho Bay, west side, just behind the runway.

Planning a Trip to St. Maarten / St. Martin

One island, two countries, no border.

While the island is divided into two countries, there are no border controls between them. The Dutch side is home to the major international airport (SXM, Princess Juliana) and cruise ship port, so it services most of the visitors coming to the island. However, there is a smaller airport, SFG (L’Esperance Airport Grand-Case) on the French side. To understand one difference, as residents tell us, “The Dutch side takes more influence from the United States. Anything goes here.”

The French side is technically part of France, so it adheres to E.U. requirements. This means that building and development is more regulated; you'll often find fewer crowds.

Renting a car in St. Maarten

St. Maarten is a relatively small island (34 square miles), but if you’re interested in doing a variety of activities as we did, a rental car is essential. There's plenty of rental car competition on the island, so prices are decent, starting from around $30-$40/day for the economy cars. Gas/petrol prices are currently pretty reasonable, particularly by European standards.

One caveat: traffic on the island can be bad and stressful, and parking can be equally challenging. Ask locals about traffic patterns, timing and rush hours up front so you can plan your route and schedule your outings to minimize irritation.

Disclosure: Our rental car was provided by Empress Rental Car just near the Princess Juliana airport. We had a simple rental car that got us around the island with no problems.

Note: We also find that Skyscanner offers good rental car prices for St. Maarten / St. Martin.

Public Transportation and Taxis on St. Maarten

If you don’t plan to explore the island much (i.e., you're focused on a nearby beach or all of your activities include a pickup or transfer), then consider taking the occasional taxi or flagging down one of the public transport minivans making their way around the island. There are plenty of both.

You can also easily book a shared airport transfer or private airport transfer from Princess Juliana airport (SXM) to your hotel so that you have someone waiting for you at the airport when you arrive.

Money in St. Maarten / St. Martin

The official currency of the French side is the Euro(€) while on the Dutch side it's the Netherlands Antillean Florin (NAF). Don’t bother taking out NAF from the ATM as all prices on the Dutch side are posted in $USD and every place accepts dollars. Most places on the French side will also accept $USD (often on a 1:1 basis with the Euro).

SIM card and mobile data on St. Maarten

We purchased a TelCell SIM card on the Dutch side for $15 and bought 500MB of data for an additional $10. However, mobile data does not work when you cross over to the French side. Although we have no experience with the UTS/Chippie, they are another option for SIM cards, calls and mobile data on the island.

When to visit St. Maarten / St. Martin

Our visit to St. Maarten/St. Martin was in mid-December. We found it just about perfect, as our timing was right before high season, which runs from just before Christmas (Dec. 22-ish) to the beginning of April. The weather during our visit was excellent – sunny and warm during the day, beautiful water temperatures, and breezy and temperate at night – and came with the added bonus of fewer crowds and reduced traffic.

We were told that August-October us usually incredibly hot and at the tail end of the hurricane season, so probably best to avoid that period. One long-time resident told us that his favorite season is April to June as it’s not too hot and high season crowds have begun to dissipate.

How to Travel to St. Maarten / St. Martin

Visiting St. Maarten / St. Martin on a Cruise

Many people visit the island as a day trip or excursion from a longer Caribbean cruise. This will provide you a taste of the island in a short period of time. In fact, many of the activities and tours recommended above are scheduled for cruise excursions so they pick you up at the port in morning and return you with plenty of time in the afternoon.

Traveling to St. Martin / St. Maarten as a Vacation

As you might have guessed from this article, we suggest visiting for longer than just a day trip as there is quite a lot to do and see in St. Maarten / St. Martin. You could do what we did and visit as a standalone vacation for 5-10 days, with side day trips to Anguilla and Saba islands. Or, you could combine a visit to St. Martin with other nearby Caribbean destinations for a multi-destination vacation.

Flying to St. Maarten

If you are flying to St. Maarten from Europe, there are usually direct connections from KLM and Air France. Coming from the United States there are quite a few airlines that fly into SXM airport like Jet Blue and American Airlines. You can check out flights to St. Maarten, including a comparison of airlines, prices and times of year, on Skyscanner.

St. Maarten Covid Entry Requirements

As of November 2022, St. Maarten / St. Martin island is open to travelers with no restrictions or Covid-19 entry requirements. However, be sure to check the official Saint Maarten Covid Travel Requirements website before your trip for the latest information and updates. Most of the international entry points to the island are on the Dutch side so it’s mostly likely that you will arrive on the island in St. Maarten and will need to follow these Covid entry requirements.

St. Martin Covid Entry Requirements

As Saint Martin is technically part of France, it has some similar Covid travel requirements. Although most international arrivals will be on the Dutch side (see above for St. Maarten), if you happen to arrive on the French side at St. Martin’s small airport (Grand Case Esperance SFG Airport) or a ferry port, you should check out the official St. Martin Covid travel requirements website for specifics and the most updated details.


Disclosure: Our trip to St. Maarten and stay at Morgan Resort (previously, Alegria Boutique Hotel) were provided by Choice Hotels in conjunction with its #ChoiceCaribbean campaign. Any experiences and meals above that were provided to us have been noted inline.

 

We would also like to thank Karen Hana, General Manager of the Alegria Boutique Hotel, for sharing with us her 20+ years of experience living on the island and for her suggestions on experiences across the island. As always, the thoughts contained herein — the what, the why, and the how — are entirely our own.

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Our Offbeat Travel List: 13 Destinations You Are Not Considering…But Should https://uncorneredmarket.com/off-beat-travel-destinations/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/off-beat-travel-destinations/#comments Mon, 20 Jan 2020 09:09:28 +0000 https://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=19899 There is certainly no shortage of “Hot Travel Destinations” or “Best Places to Visit” lists circulating these days. However, we find that most of these lists include many of the usual or well-known travel destinations. So we offer our own ... Continue Reading

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There is certainly no shortage of “Hot Travel Destinations” or “Best Places to Visit” lists circulating these days. However, we find that most of these lists include many of the usual or well-known travel destinations. So we offer our own version here with our favorite offbeat travel destinations from around the world.

This is an ever-growing list of unusual, lesser-known or unconventional destinations that might not be on your travel radar — but maybe should be.

In travel marketing speak, one might call these emerging, recovery or even under-discovered destinations. But in our experience, they are simply fascinating places that travelers are either unaware of completely or sometimes actively avoid from a travel perspective because of certain stereotypes or fears.

They are the sort of destinations that push you emotionally, sometimes physically, and always challenge you mentally — all with the result of returning you from your trip with a different view of the world, and quite often with a different view of yourself.

Here's the caveat. These places are not for everyone; they are not a universal fit for everyone's travel goals and style. They are the sorts of destinations in which things may not always go as planned. Hotels, service and transport can even be a bit rough.

Much time is spent outside the proverbial comfort zone in attempts to immerse yourself in a new culture, comprehend challenging socio-economic circumstances and process the stimuli swirling about you. Some days can even feel difficult.

But there is a payoff.

If you were to sit down with us over a beer and ask: “I want to go somewhere different that might challenge me. Someplace not very well touristed, with a bit adventure and the unknown. Where would you suggest I go?

Here's where we might suggest.

Note: This article was originally published on January 7, 2015, but was updated in January 2025 with even more offbeat destinations, travel recommendations and sustainable tourism advice.

Kyrgyzstan

Ethical Travel: Freedom and Responsibility in Travel
Getting a close up view of the Pamir Mountains.
Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Kyrgyzstan Yurt
First snow of the season at a shepherd's village near Song Kul Lake, Kyrgyzstan.

Why: To experience a country that is over 90% mountainous and littered with stunning landscapes. Add to that a taste of traditional nomadic culture with a bit of a Soviet hangover, and you have the makings of a unique yet approachable destination. This makes Kyrgyzstan a great fit for trekkers and outdoor types, as well as those interested in culture and off-beat experiences.

Additionally, there is a terrific community-based tourism (CBT) network throughout the country and Destination Management Organizations (DMO) in Karakol, South Shore of Issyk-Kul, Osh, and Jyrgalan that offer local experiences, guides and homestays that make it easy to connect and interact with locals. They can also organize and provide support for trekking and horseback riding in the mountains, including gear rental, yurt stays, and local mountain guides.

Even after visiting Kyrgyzstan nine times over a decade, both as regular travelers and as consultants on a regional tourism development project, it remains one of our favorite countries that we look forward to exploring even further.

Moldova

Visiting Moldova, Orheiul Vechi
Walking along the ridge at Orheiul Vechi, famous for its medieval cave monastery and landscapes.
Chisinau, capital of Moldova.
Chisinau, Moldova's capital city, is a fun mix of tradition (like Cathedral Square), grandiose Soviet architecture and modern designs.

Why: This little known and least visited country in Europe packs in a lot for its small size — from some truly excellent wines and winery experiences to delicious food to beautiful monasteries and natural landscapes. However, and you'll notice a theme here in this post, what really gives Moldova a place in our hearts are its people and genuine hospitality. This is a much overused word in tourism marketing, but it does accurately describe the experience you'll have exploring Moldova, especially when staying at one of its family-run rural guest houses.

Chisinau is a fun and quirky capital city that is a perfect high value European City Break with its increasing number of hip wine bars serving local vintages, higher end fusion dining experiences, world class performing arts at reasonable prices (top seats at the opera was €15-20), funky Soviet architecture, and large parks great for people watching and relaxing.

Nearby Orheiul Vechi with its medieval cave church and dramatic river gorge is home to DescOpera, the annual outdoor classical music and opera festival held each June. In the south, Lake Beleu provides a home for migrating birds with different hiking and cycling routes to explore the region. No matter where you go, stay in a family-run guest house where you'll enjoy home-cooked traditional dishes with ingredients straight from the garden or nearby farms.

Moldovan wine will also likely surprise you, as will the winery experience. Recommended wineries to visit for wine tasting, eating and spending the night include Purcari (ask for the wine barrel room on the rooftop), Crama Mircesti and Asconi wineries. Our recommendation is to ask to taste the local grape varietals like Rara Neagra, Viorica, Feteasca Alba or Feteasca Neagra. They pair perfectly with local dishes.

And you get to enjoy all this without the crowds of many parts of Europe. (Note: Some of you may be wondering about safety as Moldova is located next to Ukraine. I have visited Moldova five times since the Russian invasion of Ukraine and have always felt safe and without any fear of the war.)

Republic of Georgia

Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Svaneti in the Republic of Georgia
A ride into the high Caucasus mountains (Svaneti) turns into an adventure.
Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Tbilisi in Republic of Georgia
Tbilisi reveals itself in layers, both architecturally and culturally. One of our favorite cities.

Why: Despite all the history and remarkable mountain landscapes, the Republic of Georgia, at its very best, comes back to the Georgian people. Cross hospitality-obsessed with crazy gregarious and you’ve got a sense of the Georgian people. Add to this beautiful mountain ranges, a culturally and architecturally eclectic capital city, some of the most spiritual churches we’ve experienced, and incredible food.

Then you'll understand why Georgia is one of our favorite places in the world. We joke that in Georgia, one doesn’t need to make plans as the people you meet seem to create the adventures for you.

Bolivia

Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia
Hot springs en route to the Salar de Uyuni.
Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Bolivia
A young Bolivian mother at a gathering in Tupiza.

Why: Stunning and often surreal landscapes blended with a strong indigenous culture. For various reasons, travelers often skip Bolivia in favor of its neighbors — Peru, Argentina, Chile — when making their way through South America.

For Americans, some say it’s because of the visa fees and paperwork, but Bolivia is more than worth the extra spend and brief bit of bureaucracy. The Salar de Uyuni and in particular the journey from Tupiza features some of the world’s most beautiful and otherworldly landscapes with green lakes, Dali-esque rock formations and the mind-bending salt flats. And although you'll see tourists around the Salar, you see much less throughout the rest of the country.

We recommend stopping by Lake Titicaca and taking a hike around Isla del Sol, Tarija in the south for a taste of the Bolivian wine scene, Potosi to understand the realities of mining on people and communities, Sucre for a beautiful colonial city and La Paz for the capital with the most dramatic mountain backdrop.

Ethiopia

Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Hiking in Ethiopia
Hiking down from cave churches tucked in Gheralta Mountains of northern Ethiopia. An incredible experience.
Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Lalibela Churches of Ethiopia
Church of St. George in Lalibela. Carved top-down from red volcanic rock in the 12th century.

Why: Ancient rock-hewn churches carved from below ground, remarkable mountain landscapes, castles, ridiculously large plates of delicious local food. Need we say more?

Ethiopia surprised us in so many ways, especially with its depth of history and culture dating back over 2,000 years to the Aksumite civilization and the adoption of Christianity in 330 A.D. (the 2nd Christian nation in the world). One could feel a direct connection between Ethiopia's past and present through its adherence to ritual. We also weren't expecting to be awed by its mountains and trekking options available in the Simien and Gheralta Mountains.

Bangladesh

Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Bangladesh
Market day in Bandarban, Bangladesh (Chittagong Hill Tracts).
Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Bangladesh Friendliness
Asking kids to imitate a tiger (name of the Bangladeshi cricket team) on the streets of Old Dhaka.

Why: To truly get off the tourist path and immerse yourself in a sea of humanity. We're certain there are more tourists now, but during our five-week visit there a couple of years ago, we saw a total of five tourists. Yes, five.

Bangladesh is funky. It’s intense. It’s Bangladesh. And the country actually offers more diversity in sights and experiences that you might first expect, from UNESCO pre-Moghul mosques and cycling through tea estates to tracking tigers in mangrove forests and visiting ethnic minority areas.

But it's the human interactions — and boy, are there a lot of them — that make visiting Bangladesh such a unique and fun experience.

Pamir Highway and Mountains (Tajikistan/Kyrgyzstan)

Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan
On their way home to Langhar in Tajikistan's Wakhan Valley. On the other side of the river is Afghanistan and in the distance, Pakistan's Hindu Kush mountains.
Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Pamirs in Tajikistan
Ruins of the 12th-century Silk Road Yamchun Fort against the backdrop of the Pamir Mountains.

Why: To enjoy a road trip adventure in a mountainous region that not only stands out for the severity and beauty of its landscape, but also shines for the colorful, hospitable and fascinating Pamiri people who live there.

The Pamir Highway, roughly speaking, begins in southern Kyrgyzstan and winds its way through Tajikistan, passing by and through some of the most spectacular scenery we’ve seen on our around the world journey thus far. If you have time, stop off in the Alay Region and Alay Mountains of southern Kyrgyzstan for a few days of spectacular trekking on your way to the Tajik border.

Once you get into Tajikistan tourism infrastructure in this area ranges from little to none so you'll likely stay and eat with Pamiri families most of the time, one of the great joys of this journey.

How to organize a Pamir Highway trip: Our friend at Visit Alay has been running Pamir Highway tours for years that incorporate a well-maintained 4×4 vehicle, driver/guide, local homestays, optional hikes and more. You can start either on the Kyrgyz side (e.g., from Osh or Bishkek) or on the Tajik side (from Dushanbe or Khorog).

Book a private tour to have the vehicle all to yourself or join a group trip where you share the cost of the vehicle and driver with several people. When we did our Pamir Highway trip years ago, we opted for the group trip and met some fun travelers along the way. I mean, usually people interested in a place like the Pamir Highway have some things in common 🙂

Albania

Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Trekking in Albania
Taking in the dramatic peaks of the Karanfil Mountains, Albania.
Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Albanian Beaches
A bit of relaxation along Vlora Beach.

Why: Whether you are a beach buff or want to immerse yourself in dramatic mountains, Albania has some incredible landscapes and experiences for both types of travelers. Or, you can combine both into one trip as we did.

For decades this southern European country was closed off to the rest of the world, but no longer. In fact, it may now be firmly on the “discovered” list.

If you enjoy trekking and the outdoors, Albania offers some challenging climbs and stunning views through the Accursed Mountains (also known as the Albanian Alps) through the villages of Theth and Valbona. Mt Talijanka and the granite peaks of the Karanfil Mountains on the border with Montenegro offer even more incredible panoramas. Our modified Peaks of the Balkan Trek took us through these mountains while staying with local families and shepherds along the way.

When you've had your fill of the mountains then head south on Albania's Adriatic Coast for blue waters and relatively empty beaches at Sarandë, Vlora or nearby. The impressive UNESCO site of Butrint with Greek and Roman ruins reminds us of the layers of civilizations in this region over millennia.

Colombia

Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Colombia
Walking amongst the giant wax palms and fog of the Cocora Valley.
Offbeat Holiday Destinations - Cartagena, Colombia
Wandering the streets of old town Cartagena.

Why: To enjoy three branches of the Andean Mountain Range and the Sierra Nevadas, the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea, with rain forests, indigenous ruins, coffee plantations and colonial cities along the way.

Not too long ago Colombia was known for drugs, FARC rebels, Pablo Escobar, and violence. But, the country has been experiencing stability these last years and more areas have opened up to travelers to explore. The size and diversity of experiences in Colombia are far beyond what you may have ever imagined (or, at least what we had known about).

And then there are the Colombian people – friendly, fun and open – are also remarkably diverse from one corner of the country to the other. We visited for a month and left with an even longer wish list of places we'd like to visit.

RECOMMENDED TOURS TO COLOMBIA: Lost City Trek and Colombia Journey

Madagascar

Madagascar Travel, Lemurs
Getting up close with a ring-tail lemur in Madagascar.

Why: To get up close to playful lemurs and colorful chameleons while trying to get your head around the incredible diversity and uniqueness of Madagascar's nature, history and peoples. Often travelers think of traveling in Africa as going on safari to see the “Big 5” animals in the southern and eastern part of the content.

And although Madagascar doesn't have any of these “Big 5” safari animals, it does have something even more unique and fascinating: an estimated 80-90% of Madagascar's wildlife and fauna considered endemic to the island, meaning that it can be found nowhere else in the world.

Yes, the 110 species of lemurs are only the beginning. And, by deliberately choosing tours and activities engaged in conservation travelers can help support protecting Madagascar's endangered lemurs and other wildlife.

Madagascar Travel and Landscapes
Lush, terraced rice fields en route to our village homestay.

In addition, Madagascar's layers of history and blend of cultures are also surprisingly diverse. The first inhabitants arrived about 2,000 years ago from Austronesia (near Malaysia-Indonesia). This influenced not only the Malagasy language spoken today, but also the development of terraced rice fields across the country that are still used in present day. Layers of migration from Africa, the Middle East, East Asia, and Europe since then have all blended into what you see in Madagascar's people, cultures and cuisines today.

Then, you also have beautiful beaches to relax and process all that you've experienced.

RECOMMENDED TOUR TO MADAGASCAR: Highlights of Madagascar

Bahia, Brazil

Offbeat Travel Guide - Salvador de Bahia, Brazil
View down Pelourinho square towards Carmo church.

Why: To immerse yourself in Afro-Brazilian culture, music, cuisine and diversity. Although Brazil is not an off-the-beaten path destination, the Bahia region is much less known than the country’s popular southern coastal areas between Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paolo. From the moment we arrived in Salvador de Bahia, the region’s colorful and vibrant capital city, we knew this place was special. You could just feel it.

Offbeat Travel Guide - Salvador de Bahia, Brazil
Musicians take over the streets of Salvador de Bahia before Carnival.

Wander the bright streets of Salvador’s old town (Pelourinho), one of the oldest colonial cities in South America going back to the 16th century, and seek out city’s vibrant Afro-Brazilian music and cuisine. During our visit just before Carnival the city was literally filled with music as “blocks” (groups of musicians and performers) practiced throughout the city.

Brazil Travel Guide - Stella Maris Beach near Salvador de Bahia
Chilling at at Stella Maris beach near big city Salvador.

Then, when you’ve had a bit of sensory overload head out to one of Bahia’s famous white-sand beaches for a bit of quiet.

Offbeat Destinations To Keep In Mind for Later

The following destinations are ones that were fascinating places to visit where we learned so much and had so many assumptions challenged and overturned. We're keeping them on the list as they are incredible places to visit that will surprise you, including the welcome from local people. However, now may not be the best time to visit because of political or safety concerns so we caution you to do research first and get in touch with people on the ground or local tour companies to determine when would be a good time to visit for the safety and benefit of all parties involved.

Ukraine

Offbeat Travel Destinations - Kyiv, Ukraine
Impressive 11th century St. Sophia Cathedral in Kyiv.

Ukraine is sadly suffering from the invasion of Russia right now, but we encourage you to keep this surprisingly rich and diverse country in mind for when it is safe to visit. Our train journey around Ukraine was in the autumn of 2019 and we look forward to returning to explore more of the country when we can.

Why: Kyiv, the country’s capital, had its heyday in the 10th-12th century as the center of the Kievan Rus empire and the city still has several impressive 11th – 12th century cathedrals like Saint Sophia and Kiev Pechersk Lavra (Kiev Monastery of the Caves) that remain (through several renovations) to this day.

But the city also has an impressive street art and design scene with a young feel to its streets. Add to this the country’s Soviet past and brutalist architecture. It’s this contrast that makes the city so interesting. 

Offbeat Travel Destinations: Odessa, Ukraine
Odessa's Opera House is even more impressive on the inside than on the outside. Shows are still very reasonably priced, too.

Then there is Odessa on the Black Sea, once a vibrant cultural and literary hub in the 19th century, and streets lined with a mix of Art Nouveau and Renaissance styles with both an old Russia and Mediterranean feel. Still considered a hub for Russian culture it’s likely you’ll hear more Russian here than Ukrainian. But not so when in Lviv near the western border with Poland, known for its Ukrainian nationalism and culture. Dating back to the 13th century its colorful old town squares and cobblestoned streets have more a Polish and Austro-Hungarian feel. 

Of course, these three cities are just the tip of the Ukrainian iceberg. But, they will give you a taste of the diversity and rich history throughout the country.

Iran

Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Iran
Eye-bending Persian design at Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque in Esfahan.
Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Iranian Mountains
Adopted in a village in northwestern Iran.

With the current heated situation in the Middle East and elevated safety warnings from governments (they are always high for Iran, this can also impact travel insurance), we recommend getting a local perspective before planning a visit.

Why: To travel to a country where the on-the-ground travel experience couldn't be more different than impressions left by the news. Iran also features some of the most impressive historical sites we've ever seen (including 19 UNESCO sites).

Visiting 2500-year-old Persepolis, once the capital of ancient Persia, is a lesson not only in the strength of the Persian Empire, but a perspective regarding how civilizations and power come and go. Eyeball-bending Persian design and architecture that holds the gaze can't be missed either.

In addition to Iran's Big Three (Shiraz, Esfahan and Yazd), expand your sense of the country with a visit to the northwestern part of Iran for even more surprises like fairy chimney villages, Armenian monasteries and the world's largest covered market in Tabriz. Then, close out your adventure by taking the train from Iran to Istanbul.

And again, it comes down to people. That's what may surprise you most about Iran.

Note: Obtaining a tourist visa for citizens from the United States, Canada and United Kingdom can be tricky, but it's not impossible if you know what you need and how to do it. Be sure to check out this article on how to get an Iranian visa (including the vast comment thread) for all you need to know.

Haiti

Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Haiti Mountains and Coast
Mountains and coastline of southern Haiti.
Offbeat Holiday Destinations, Haiti
Shy sisters who live near the sugar cane plantations of northern Haiti.

Haiti is sadly going through some challenging times with intense gang violence that is leading to increased instability and security problems.

Why: Because Haiti is surprising, complicated and fascinating. Sure, the country has some beautiful white-sand beaches, but it's the artists, musicians, waterfalls, hilltop fortresses, cave networks and the mysteries of Vodou that will likely leave the most lasting impressions on you.

Although Haiti is only 1.5 hours away from Miami by air and shares the same island landmass as popular vacation destination Dominican Republic, it only sees a relative handful of travelers each year. At least for now.

Responsible Travel and Sustainable Tourism Tips

We always advocate for and encourage travelers to try and travel in a way that benefits the local communities — through their decisions on where to go, which activities or tours to choose, and how to spend their tourism money. This is even more important to many of the countries listed above as they are still developing their tourism infrastructure.

And here are a few ways you can help and support this through your travels:

So, what did we miss? Which destination(s) would you add to the list?

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Best Hikes Around the World: 15 Unusual Hikes You’re Not Considering…But Should https://uncorneredmarket.com/offbeat-treks-around-the-world/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/offbeat-treks-around-the-world/#comments Sun, 29 Dec 2019 12:53:36 +0000 https://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=20781 After over a decade of traveling around the world and hiking on six continents, what are some of our best hikes and multi-day treks? This hiking guide includes 15 of our recommended unknown or lesser-known hikes — some multi-day treks, ... Continue Reading

The post Best Hikes Around the World: 15 Unusual Hikes You’re Not Considering…But Should appeared first on Uncornered Market.

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After over a decade of traveling around the world and hiking on six continents, what are some of our best hikes and multi-day treks? This hiking guide includes 15 of our recommended unknown or lesser-known hikes — some multi-day treks, some day hikes — that you might not have heard of or know about, but should. These hikes are worth a look if you are interested in unusual and immersive experiences in terms of both natural landscapes and local culture.

I only went out for a walk and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in. — John Muir

When we first set out on our journey years ago, hiking and trekking — especially of the long, multi-day trek variety — were not a priority on our activity list. Sure, we enjoyed day hikes and walks, but longer multi-day treks weren't something we actively sought out.

Over the years, however, we’ve found ourselves increasingly drawn to long hikes in the mountains that allow us to disconnect from the busy world while connecting more with nature and ultimately ourselves. These days, we make an effort each year to take at least one long multi-day trek or several day hikes grouped together in one trip as a way to recharge and refresh.

Trek, Mount Gjeravica in Kosovo
Feeling good on the highest peak in Kosovo, Mount Gjeravica.

We don’t always wish to disconnect entirely from humanity when we go trekking. Instead, we are often attracted to hikes that feature a cultural component, one where we encounter and engage with local people, often through family homestays. This type of hiking not only challenge us physically by pushing us to do more than the usual, but they often stir us emotionally by forcing us to widen the cultural lens through which we view the region and our world.

Finally, this approach provides us the opportunity to contribute to the local economy and community by staying with local families.

Treks with Homestays
Breakfast with our host family. Markha Valley, Ladakh.

Having finished quite a few day hikes and multi-day treks over the last decade of our travels around the world, we've been fielding questions about which hikes we’d recommend. We tend to choose hikes that are lesser known, sometimes in unusual destinations. Not only are these unusual hikes less crowded, so we have the trails and nature to ourselves, but they often offer some surprises along the way…in a good way.

Without further delay, here is our Offbeat Hiking Guide with 16 of our favorite lesser known hikes from around the world. For advice on hiking gear and how to pack for a hike, check out our hiking essentials checklist.

Note: This post was originally published in July 2015 and last updated in March 2022 with a few new treks.

READ MORE: How to Pack For A Trek: The Ultimate Hiking Packing List

Peaks of the Balkans: Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro

Days: 12
Distance: 200 km / 124 miles

Trekking in Albania, Karanfil Mountains
Dan takes in the Karanfil Mountains on the border between Albania and Montenegro.
Trekking in Kosovo
Descending from Mount Gjeravica, Kosovo's highest peak.

Why: To experience challenging climbs and stunning views from peaks in a relatively unknown part of Europe, while staying with local families in their farmhouses and shepherd huts along the way.

This trek through the Accursed Mountains (sometimes referred to as the Albanian Alps) reminds us that sometimes the areas with the most beautiful landscapes are also the ones most difficult ones to live in. The Peaks of the Balkans, a relatively new concept trail, allows you to venture into areas and across borders that had previously been no-go zones for decades. The abandoned bunkers and border guard towers you’ll find along your way stand testament to this.

Update: We have published the Peaks of the Balkans Beginner's Guide (PDF) with all you need to know regarding itineraries, recommended routes, packing, accommodation, and other practical details for this trek.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We booked our Peaks of the Balkans trek and guide with Zbulo! Discover Albania.

Lost City Trek: Sierra Nevada Mountains, Colombia

Days: 4 (5-6 day treks are also available)
Distance: 46 km / 28 miles

Unusual Treks, Lost City Trek in Colombia
Carving Sierra Nevada mountain trails to reach the Lost City of Teyuna.
Unusual Treks, Colombia's Lost City Trek
The upper terraces of Teyuna, the jungle-tucked Lost City.

Why: To trek through the jungles of Colombia’s Sierra Nevada Mountains to reach Teyuna, the capital of the ancient Tayrona civilization. When travelers consider trekking in South America, their thoughts most often go to Machu Picchu in Peru and Torres del Paine in Chilean Patagonia. While we can recommend both of these treks, we suggest the Lost City trek as part of your travels in Colombia if you seek an experience of the sort that is a little less developed, a little less known.

We also recommend choosing a Lost City tour that has a Wiwa indigenous guide. He shared stories with us that were passed on to him by the shaman (holy men) about the ancient Tayrona civilization and the city of Teyuna. This combined cultural and historical context added to the entire experience.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We took a Lost City tour with G Adventures. They work with the local Wiwa indigenous community as local guides and for a community lunch and visit.

Heights of Alay Trek: Alay Mountains, Kyrgyzstan

Days: 3 nights/4 days
Distance: 48 km/30 miles

Sary Mogul Pass on the Heights of Alay Trek, Kyrgyzstan
The Alay Mountains in southern Kyrgyzstan are otherworldly. Truly. Sary Mogul Pass (4,303 meters).
Trekking in the Alay Mountains, Kyrgyzstan - Marking Trekking Trails
Marking the trail at Koshmoinok Pass.

Why: To feel as if you've landed on a different planet. The landscapes on the Heights of Alay trek in southern Kyrgyzstan, especially on day one while crossing Sary Mogul Pass (4,303 meters/14,120 feet), are truly otherworldly. And you have incredible views over Peak Lenin (7,134 meters / 23,406 feet) and the Pamir Mountain range along the way. You also have the local cultural experience of engaging with local shepherds along the way and have the option of eating at shepherd's home for breakfast or dinner.

There is also a longer variation of the Heights of Alay Trek that is 5 nights/6 days (87km) that takes you over Jiptick Pass (4,185 meters) and ends in Sary Mogul village. And, if you have limited time consider the Koshkol Lakes day hike near Sary Mogul. You can check out all the details in our guide to hiking in the Alay Mountains or find out about other hikes in the Pamir Mountains like going up to Lenin Peak Base camp in this travel guide to the Alay Region.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We did this trek with Visit Alay and recommend choosing them for quality guides, gear and experience. In addition, this is part of the Community Based Tourism network in Kyrgyzstan where a portion of the profits goes back into community development. Talant Toksonbaev and his team in Osh can help you with anything you might need to organize a trek in the Alay Mountains of Kyrgyzstan.

Other recommended treks in Kyrgyzstan:

We can also recommend the Boz-Uchuk Lakes Trek in Jyrgalan Valley organized by Destination Jyrgalan outside of Karakol. If you're interested in a horse trek take a look at the 2 night/3 day horseback riding out to Song Kul Lake, but we hear that has become more popular and crowded over the last few years.

Markha Valley Trek: Ladakh, India

Days: 7
Distance: 75 km / 47 miles

Unusual Treks, Markha Valley in Ladakh, India
Buddhist chorten and snow-covered peaks, Hankar village.
Unusual Treks, Ladakh
Prayer flags at the top of Gongmaru La Pass (5,130m/16,800 feet) along Markha Valley trek.

Why: To challenge yourself in the high deserts of the Indian Himalayas by crossing 5,000 meter (16,400 foot) mountain passes, all while learning about traditional Ladakhi Buddhist culture through your local guide and host families. Ladakh features some of the most stunning scenery we have ever encountered.

We include the Markha Valley multi-day trek here as most travelers think “Nepal” when they consider hiking in the Himalayas. And rightly so, as the Annapurna Circuit trek we did there remains one of our top experiences of all times. However, Ladakh offers a more remote, less explored hiking alternative. It’s also important to note that several trails and treks outside of the than Markha Valley are available if you are seek something even more far-flung and unusual.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We booked our Markha Valley trek and guide with Ecological Footprint Ladakh in Leh, Ladakh.

Cordillera Huayhuash Trek, Peru

Days: 10
Distance: 113 km / 70 miles

Huayhuash Trek, Peru
Sunrise reflections along the Huayhuash Trek.
Huayhuash Trek in Peru
The incredible peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash in Peru.
Huayhuash Trek in Peru
Another phenomenal vista along the Huayhuash Trek in Peru.

Why: To immerse yourself in one of the most stunning and dramatic mountain ranges in the world, the Cordillera Huayhuash in central Peru. Each day of this trek takes you over 4,800 meter (15,750 feet) to 5,100 meter (16,400 feet) mountain passes with snow-covered peaks up to 6,200 meter (20,340 feet) all around you. You pass by several turquoise alpine lakes each day while condors soar above. It's truly a beautiful part of this world.

Although the altitudes on this trek are high, don't be discouraged as the ascents are not technical — you just need to go slow and steady, one foot in front of the other. You can check out all the details in this Huayhuash Trekking Guide.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We did this 10-day Huayhuash Trek with Quechuandes in Huaraz, Peru. The support on this trek was great and included an experienced trekking guide, cook and all food, donkeys to carry our gear, tents, support staff, and more. And, the price is reasonable given the quality of the service.

Svaneti, Mestia to Ushguli: High Caucasus Mountains, Republic of Georgia

Days: 3
Distance: 45 km / 28 miles

Unusual Treks, Caucasus Mountains in Georgia
Green and granite, the High Caucasus Mountains. Svaneti region, Georgia.
Unusual Treks, Svaneti in Georgia
A typical village in Svaneti, complete with signature Svan defensive towers.

Why: To trek through the High Caucasus Mountains from Mestia to Ushguli, purportedly the highest inhabited village in Europe at 2,100m / 6,900ft, and stay with local Svan families along the way. Our trek in Svaneti was our first multi-day, home stay trek that enlightened us as to how trekking could not only be an immersive experience in nature, but also in local culture. We were hooked.

To say that local Svan people, who view themselves as the protectors of these mountains, are intense is perhaps an understatement. You’ll find the people of Svaneti welcoming — just as fierce in their present-day hospitality as they are in their historical resistance to outsiders. Just beware of your liver, as the endless toasts each night with local wine and firewater can add up.

Xela to Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

Days: 3 days
Distance: 37 km / 23 miles

Unusual Treks, Lake Atitlan in Guatemala
Sunrise over Lake Atitlan, the final morning wake of our trek.
Unusual Treks, Xela to Lake Atitlan, Guatemala
The village of Santa Catarina, one of our overnights en route to Lake Atitlan.

Why: To hike through mountains and hill villages between two of Guatemala’s most popular tourist destinations — Xela and Lake Atitlan — and to finish with a beautiful sunrise view of the lake from above. We were told that this trail was developed by a veteran of the Guatemalan civil war (ended in 1996) as a means of stealthily moving about the region.

Along the way up and down the volcanic mountains and into the valleys, you stay in simple guest houses (sometimes schools or community buildings) or with families, including one that allows you to try their traditional Mayan sauna. On the final morning, you’ll enjoy breakfast at sunrise from above Lake Atitlan.

This hike might afford you a new appreciation for both the town and the lake after making the effort to trek the highlands between the two. In addition, you'll have a greater appreciation of the nature and cultures of Guatemala.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We booked the Xela to Lago Atitlan Trek with Quetzal Trekkers.

Lake Khecheopalri to Yuksom: Sikkim, India

Distance: 20-25 km / 12 – 15 miles
Days: 3

Unusual Treks, Sikkim
Daybreak in our overnight stop above Lake Khecheopalri, Sikkim.
Unusual Treks, Mt. Khangchendzonga in Sikkim
Clouds clear for a view of Mt. Khangchendzonga, the third highest mountain in the world.

Why: To get a taste of Nepali and Bhutanese culture while still in India, and to appreciate a view of majestic Mount Khangchendzonga, the third highest mountain in the world (8,586 m /28,169 ft). When we first decided to visit Sikkim, a semi-autonomous region in northwestern India that borders Nepal, Bhutan and Tibet (China), our plan did not include trekking.

Only after seeing the mountains and hearing that the trails were easy to follow, did we set off with a daypack to explore the area around Lake Khecheopalri and Yuksom. We stayed in family guesthouses and enjoyed all the interactions and tea stops in villages along the way.

Note: If you are interested in a more strenuous journey in this region, consider the route to Goecha La (4,940 meters) from which the best views of Mount Khangchendzonga are reportedly had.

Trek to Big Almaty Lake: Tian Shan Mountains, Kazakhstan

Distance: 20 km / 12 miles (one way)
Days: 2

Unusual Treks, Kazakhstan
Big Almaty Lake. Tian Shan Mountains, Kazakhstan. No Photoshop needed.
Unusual Treks, Tian Shan Mountains of Kazakhstan
Abandoned bus at the Tian Shan Observatory. Soviet-era industrial detritus, frozen in time.

Why: To get a quick look into the Tian Shan Mountains, reach the turquoise waters of Big Almaty Lake and spend the night at a funky, former Soviet astronomical observatory. While the lake is beautiful and the hike up is pleasant enough, the highlight of this trek was the surreal experience of spending the night at the Tian Shan Astronomical Observatory.

During our visit, we felt as though we’d landed on a movie set, a time-frozen remnant, wild west outpost of the Soviet Union. Scientists still live and work up there, however, and they keep the high-powered telescopes going. If you pay $5-10, one of them will open the telescope and show you the stars.

Please do not do what we did on our second day and use a Lonely Planet guidebook map to guide your return to Almaty over the mountain pass and down through one of the river beds. The route to Kosmostancia, another bizarre scientific outpost up the mountain from the observatory, is easy. After that, however, we lost the trail and almost didn’t make it out of the mountains at all (here’s the full story from our Kazakhstan hike).

So, words to the wise: learn from our mistake. Return down the mountain to Almaty the same way you came. Otherwise, carry a usable trekking map, use a map app with trekking route overlays able, or hire a guide so you can enjoy yourself and return without unnecessary drama.

Sawtooth Mountains: Idaho, United States

Distance: 10 – 24 miles
Days: day hikes

Hiking in the Sawtooth Mountains, Idaho.
Lunch break along the Pettit and Toxaway Lakes Loop in the Sawtooth Mountains.
Sawtooth Mountain Hikes in Idaho
First snows at Sawtooth Lake. Be sure to keep on the trail after the lake to get these overview vistas.
Sawtooth Mountains Hiking - Bench Lakes near Stanley, Idaho
Incredible reflections and vistas at the 4th Bench Lake in the Sawtooth Mountains.

Why: To be surprised by the beauty and diversity of landscapes and alpine lakes of the Sawtooth Mountains. Who knew Idaho was this beautiful?! Each day trek we did, including the Pettit and Toxaway Lakes Loop (20+ miles), Sawtooth Lakes Hike and Bench Lakes (be sure to continue to the 4th lake), just blew us away for the vistas and contours.

We also timed our visit for the shoulder season at the end of September and early October so as to avoid the crowds. As a result, we had the trails to ourselves and were able to enjoy the small town Stanley and its hot springs without a lot of other travelers around.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We based ourselves in Stanley, Idaho and took day hikes each day. This allowed us to enjoy the mountains during the day and warm meal and bed at night. We stayed at Mountain Village Lodge and thoroughly enjoyed their complimentary 1-hour hot springs soak that comes with the room. Just be sure to book your hot springs time before you leave in the morning on your day hike so that you are guaranteed a soak time when you return. SO nice after a long hike.

Southern Coast of Gozo and Malta Islands, Malta 

Distance: 6-12 miles / 10 – 20 km
Days: day hikes

Hiking in Gozo, Malta
A lovely walk along the southern coast of Gozo island.
Hiking in Malta, Dingle Cliffs
Hiking next to the Dingle Cliffs of Malta's southern coast.

Why: To enjoy the dramatic cliffs and brisk coastal winds of Gozo and Malta islands. Although Malta isn’t really known for its hiking, it should be given dramatic coastlines on both islands. And, hitting the trails are a great way to avoid the crowds that sometimes hit the islands.  

Our favorite hike was the 9-10 km trail along Gozo’s southern coast, from the ferry terminal in Mgarr to Xlendi. We passed through the village of Sannat and discovered even more stunning cliffs along the way on this coastal route. Gozo is smaller than Malta Island, but it is more rural and with more (non-road) hiking trails. Our only regret was that we weren’t spending several nights on Gozo so that we could have continued with a longer coastal circuit. 

On Malta Island we hiked 12+ miles/20 km along its southern coast from the popular Blue Grotto to Dingli Cliffs and then up to historic Mdina town (we combined several routes here). This was a nice mixture of trails along the coast and through farmlands and small villages. It really made us appreciate the contours of the island so much more having walked a chunk of it. Some of the route goes on narrow country roads, but there wasn't a lot of traffic so it wasn't an issue. Highly recommend walking as much of Malta as you can.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We based ourselves in Valletta, Malta and took public transport (buses and ferries) to get to/from the trails for these day hikes. This took more time than if we had rented a car, but it was also less stressful as we didn't have to worry about driving on the left side of the road or finding parking. If we had to do it again we would have spent several nights on Gozo island and done even more day hikes.

Tamang Heritage Trek: Nepal

Distance: 29.5 miles / 47.5 km
Days: 4.5 days

Tamang Heritage Trail, Nepal
Early morning views along the Tamang Heritage Trail.
Tamang Heritage Trail in Nepal
Dan gets adorned with flowers from a grandmother we met in a Tamang village.

Why: To hike through Tamang (ethnic Tibetan Buddhist) villages with views of snow-covered Langtang Lirung and Ganesh Himal peaks (both above 7,200 meters/24,000 feet). The Tamang Heritage Trail was developed in the last decade as an alternative to the more popular and well-known Langtang Trek.

It is a sort of cultural trek so travelers could learn more about Tamang (Tibetan Buddhist) culture as they hiked through, and stayed in, different Tamang villages. Its aim is to be include more inclusive of different communities so that more may benefit from all the trekkers and travelers coming to this region. In addition, several of the villages along this trek were badly impacted by the 2015 earthquake in Nepal so bringing back trekking to these areas helps provide income to rebuild.

What also makes Nepal such a great trekking destination, including the Tamang Heritage Trail, is the infrastructure of tea houses and family guest houses in villages along many trails that make it easy to engage and stay with local families. This means you know your money is staying local and you’re usually getting fresh food directly from the garden. This also means you don’t need to carry tents, food or any camping equipment, making organization much easier (and lighter).

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We hired a porter/guide from Nepal Wilderness Trekking and specifically requested one who was Tamang and from this region. Himal, the founder of the organization, was very responsive to all of our questions and also organized our trekking permits and transportation to/from Syebrubesi (6-7 hours in a bumpy jeep). Although we could have done this independently and carried our own gear, we were happy to have Manoj with us to guide the way so we didn't get lost, translate into Tamang when speaking with local people, answer questions we had about Tamang culture and traditions, and also carry up to 15kg of our trekking gear. We found it worth the additional expense so that we could just focus on the experience, have a way to communicate with locals, and not worry about anything else. We recommend Manoj as a porter/guide for this and other treks in Nepal.

Kalaw to Inle Lake: Myanmar (Burma)

Distance: 61 km / 38 miles
Days: 3

Unusual Treks, Myanmar
Layers of hills, Shan State en route to Inle Lake.
Unusual Treks, Burmese People You Meet
A mother and daughter moment at a tea stop along our trek.


Why: To hike through the hills of Myanmar’s Shan State between the town of Kalaw and the popular tourist destination of Inle Lake, and get a feel for rural life in Myanmar by staying with families and in a local monastery. What made this trek stand out for us was the interaction and engagement with people along the way, from the grandmother harvesting ginger roots to the ethnic Pao girls who wanted our water bottles so they had something to drink from while working the fields.

Walking to Inle Lake makes you appreciate the work of hill village locals who carry their their goods several times a week to the lakeside weekly markets. It also helps you appreciate the landscapes and rural life between Myanmar's main sites.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We booked our trek and guide with Sam's Family Trekking in Kalaw, Myanmar.

Gheralta Mountains: Ethiopia, Tigray Province

Days: 1-2 day hikes
Distance: 10-15 km / 6-9 miles, but the challenge is more in the free climbing

Unusual Treks, Gheralta Mountains of Ethiopia
A little free-climbing in the Gheralta Mountains.
Unusual Treks, Ethiopia
Following the monk to Daniel Korkor, a church built into the cliff.

Why: To see 1,000-year old Ethiopian Orthodox churches carved high into the cliffs in a landscape reminiscent of the red rock deserts of Arizona and Utah. In order to reach those churches you must do some free-form rock climbing. The experience includes a few sheer drops that might send those with vertigo into a temporary, protective fetal position (We speak from experience, by the way).

However, there are rewards. In addition to the stunning views throughout the climb, you’ll have the opportunity to go inside remote cliff-side churches whose interiors are covered with 600-800 year old frescos – all with a monk or priest in as your guide. Although there are several treks in this area, the two we opted for were those up to the Daniel Korkor and Maryam Korkor churches. We suggest climbing them in that order, since tackling the former will help prepare you for the latter.

HOW WE DID THIS HIKE: We did this trek as part of our G Adventures tour in Ethiopia. Unfortunately, the tour itinerary has changed and no longer includes these treks. However, you could work with the local tour company to add trekking in the Gheralta Mountains onto the other tour. It's so worth it.

Read more:

Pic la Selle and Parc National la Visite, Haiti

Distance: 25-35 km / 15-29 miles
Days: 3

Unusual Treks, Haiti
View from Pic Cabayo — Parc National la Visite, Haiti. Just gorgeous.
Unusual Treks, Haiti Roads
Market roads wind their way to the outskirts of Port-au-Prince.

Why: To experience Haiti’s endless layers of mountains (the country’s name means “land of mountains” in the local indigenous Taino language) and its unexpected natural beauty while having the chance to meet and engage with people all along the way. You’ll meet school children on their way home, women carrying goods on their heads to market, and farmers plowing the fields.

Haiti’s cities can be busy and frenetic, so spending a few days in the hills of Parc National La Visite with a walk down local paths towards Port-au-Prince provides a chance to slow it all down and absorb this fascinating yet complicated destination in a different way. Not to mention, spending the cool evenings in the hills drinking Haitian hot chocolate and listening to konpa music is something we'll never forget.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We booked our Haiti trek and guide with Tour Haiti after our Haiti tour with G Adventures.

Read more:


What have we missed? Is there a favorite hike or unusual trek you’d add to this list? Please let us know in the comments! We – and our readers always appreciate more trekking inspiration.

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An Experiential Travel Guide to Sri Lanka: 19 Ideas to Get You Started https://uncorneredmarket.com/sri-lanka-travel-guide/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/sri-lanka-travel-guide/#comments Fri, 27 Dec 2019 01:40:01 +0000 https://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=31842 Thinking of traveling to Sri Lanka, but not sure of where to start? Which places to visit, things to do or how to plan your trip? And how can you best avoid the crowds? We’ll answer all those questions and ... Continue Reading

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Thinking of traveling to Sri Lanka, but not sure of where to start? Which places to visit, things to do or how to plan your trip? And how can you best avoid the crowds? We’ll answer all those questions and more in this Sri Lanka Experiential Travel Guide and two-week itinerary.

From meeting people on trains, sharing sunrise with pilgrims and travelers alike at the top of Adam’s Peak, wandering through the tea gardens, learning to pop spices and cook Sri Lankan food in clay pots, admiring sleeping Buddha sculptures in caves, and much more, here is a taste of the diversity of experiences and destinations you'll find traveling through Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide
Sunrise at the top of Adam's Peak, a sacred place for Buddhists, Hindus, Muslims and Christians.

Sri Lanka. Ceylon. The little tear-shaped island just south of India. Our visit there wasn't my first.

I lived there for 18 months when my father worked at the U.S. Embassy. My memories of Sri Lanka from my six to seven year-old self consisted of brightly colored saffron robes worn by Buddhist monks, baby orphan elephants bathing in the river, giant sleeping gilded Buddhas, and a vibrant green as far as I could see across the rolling hills of tea plantations in the north.

Sri Lanka Elephant Orphanage
Six-year old me with orphan elephants when we lived in Sri Lanka.

Something I appreciate now as an adult, yet didn’t fully understand as a child except to note differences in people’s clothing, was the diversity of ethnicities, cultures and religions in Sri Lanka. This includes a majority Sinhalese population who are predominately Buddhist, a Tamil community composed of both Sri Lankan and Indian Tamils who are mostly Hindu, and also Christians and Muslims.

Add to this a long and complicated history dating back 8,000+ years — including power struggles between kingdoms, colonialism, and forced migration — and you have the blend that makes Sri Lanka the fascinating and complex place that it is, the same blend which helped divide it and drive it into a devastating 26-year civil war (1983-2009).

My family left before the civil war began. As the war unfolded, we watched as Sri Lankan friends emigrated to avoid the conflict. And just as peace and stability returned over the last decade, we watched as many of them returned home. Dan and I came close to visiting Sri Lanka in 2008 when we were in southern India. It was a time just before the end of the civil war. At the counsel of Sri Lankan friends, we decided to wait. When the war finally ended in May 2009, we looked for an opportunity to visit.

One finally presented itself years later. Spurred by an opening in a Vipassana meditation course at a center in Sri Lanka, we booked a last-minute flight to Colombo. As I sat my meditation course, Dan made his way south to a beach for his own self-made retreat. After the meditation course finished, we embarked on a two week journey around the island together.

To assemble an itinerary we collected recommendations from friends who had lived or visited there recently, piecing together a rough route focused on train journeys, tea gardens and treks. We left things flexible, often booking accommodation the day before or the day of, to allow shifts and adjustments as we wished.

In the end, it turned out to be an even better two-week trip than we'd imagined, flush with a diversity of experiences and destinations which belied the relatively short amount of time we had. Despite the ground we'd covered and all that we'd experienced, we never felt rushed.

Trains, tea gardens and treks. Here are the best experiences from our Sri Lanka travels and two-week itinerary.

How to use this experiential travel guide to Sri Lanka: The following experiences are in chronological order from our trip. If you have around two weeks, you can conservatively accomplish something similar and fit in trains, treks, tea plantations and more. With three to four weeks you can add in more beach time, a meditation course, a visit to the eastern side of the island, or a few more hill towns along the way. We include suggestions of train journeys, enjoyable treks and notable hotels in Sri Lanka to help round out your itinerary. The aim: you have all the inspiration and practical travel information to create your own Sri Lanka itinerary and trip.

Update: This post was first published in April 2019 and was updated and republished with more details and options for day trips on 28 December, 2019.

Our Sri Lanka 2-Week Itinerary: A Map

Our two week journey together through Sri Lanka included:

Sri Lanka 2-Week Itinerary Map
You can view the interactive Google My Map here.
  • Colombo – Kandy (train): 2 days
  • Kandy – Dambulla Caves – Sigiriya – Kandy (bus): 2 days
  • Kandy – Hatton (train) + rickshaw to Delhousie – Adam's Peak – Hatton: 2 days
  • Hatton – Haputale (train) + rickshaw to Lipton's Seat: 3 days
  • Haputale – Ella (train): 3 days
  • Ella – Colombo (train): 2 days
  • Note: Dan's beach segment took him from Colombo by train to Galle and then a bus onto the southern beaches between Godellawela and Goyambokka.

The days for each itinerary segment listed above and below include travel times between destinations. Moving between destinations can often take most to all of a day when you take into consideration time on the train (or bus) and rickshaw transfers needed. However, these journeys are also experiences in and of themselves to meet locals and enjoy the changing landscapes and lush tea plantations.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide: 19 Things to Do and Places to Visit

1. Take the train in Sri Lanka – again and again and again

Traveling by train in Sri Lanka, no matter which class carriage, is the best way to get around the country for views, hanging with locals, and budget minding. It’s more than just a transportation option to get you from point A to B; it's an experience. We traveled in every class, from third class to 1st class A/C (air-conditioned), and highly recommend trying it all if you can.

Sri Lanka Travel by Train
Train travel in Sri Lanka: the best way around the island.

Sri Lankan trains don’t go everywhere, but they reach close to most places in Sri Lanka that you’d want to visit. Additionally, many train routes take you through gorgeous scenery and landscapes — tea gardens, forests, villages, coasts — often where there are no roads.

The fresh air and meditative slow movement and sound of the train is so much more enjoyable than diesel-filled roads and the jerky movements of bus transport. We traveled by train from: Colombo – Kandy – Hatton – Haputale – Ella – Colombo.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Hill Country Tea Plantations
Views from the train in Sri Lanka's hill country.

No matter which train journey you choose, you won’t be disappointed. Although the train route to Ella gets most of the press and hype, we actually felt that the segment from Hatton to Haputale was the most spectacular.

Given the popularity of train travel with locals and travelers it can be challenging to secure tickets for reserved seats. Read below for advice on buying tickets and traveling by train in Sri Lanka without a reservation.

What to do in and near Kandy: 3 days

2. Admire the murals and gilded Buddha statues at Dambulla Cave Temple

We can develop “temple fatigue” quickly. As such, and based on our research, we arrived at Dambulla Cave Temple with managed expectations. But as it was only a couple hours north (72km) of Kandy and en route to Sigiriya Rock Fortress, we opted to stop off and check it out.

We’re so glad we did.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Dambulla Cave Temple
Buddha statues at the Dambulla Cave Temple.

These Buddhist cave temples, also a UNESCO site, date back to around 1st century BC. The complex includes five caves open to the public, each a bit different from the next in terms of its size, and its style and range of paintings and Buddha statues. Of course, the paintings and statues have been renovated and brushed up over time. However, it’s still impressive to take in Buddhist religious art spanning 22 centuries and to witness the living history of how local people still use these caves today for religious purposes.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Dambulla Cave Temple
Sleeping Buddha, Dambulla Cave Temple.

This is a popular site for both Sri Lankans and travelers, so if you find that one cave is crowded, just move to the next one until the crowds dissipate and move on. It’s worth the additional effort to be able to enjoy each of the caves with some quiet and stillness.

How to visit the Dambulla Cave Temple: Buses leave Kandy bus station (just next to the train station) for Dambulla throughout the day. The journey is about 90 minutes each way. Ask the bus attendant or driver to drop you off at the Cave Temple entrance so that you don’t have to double-back from Dambulla town a few kilometers away. We opted to spend an extra dollar or two to catch an air-conditioned bus from Kandy bus station. It’s not the easiest to find so just ask one of the men at the information desk. They'll point you in the right direction.

 

If you have a backpack or luggage with you, ask to leave your bags at the Police/Security checkpoint on the way up to the temple. There aren't many food options around the entrance to temple, so consider bringing some snacks or taking a tuk-tuk into Dambulla town for lunch.

When we visited there was no entrance fee. We'd read previously to expect an entrance fee, so we’re not sure if we just got lucky the day we visited.

3. Climb to the top of Sigiriya (Lion Rock) Citadel before the crowds arrive

The story goes that in the 5th century King Kasyapa needed to build a new, secure capital after usurping the throne. He brutally murdered his father and scared off his brother, the rightful heir to the throne.

After this Game of Thrones-style move, he headed just north of Dambulla and built his palace atop a massive 180-meter high rock – Sigiriya, or Lion Rock – giving him a vantage point from which to see any armies coming from miles away. His palace served him well and protected him during his reign. After he died, it was used as a Buddhist monastery until the 14th century.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Sigiriya
Sigiriya Palace, views from the top.

Most travelers visit Sigiriya, another UNESCO site and one of the most visited places in Sri Lanka, as a day trip from Kandy. Our advice is to spend the night in one of the family-run guest houses close to the site and take a tuk-tuk early in the morning so you arrive at 7AM when the ticket office and gates open.

This will allow you to walk through the gardens, enjoy the frescoes — including the famous Sigiriya Maidens — in the caves along the rock face (cool, but you can’t touch!), climb to the top of the rock, walk around the palace ruins, enjoy the views from up high, and head back down. And to do all this before the hordes of tourists on bus tours from Kandy arrive. On our way down from the top of the rock, we saw hundreds of visitors lining up.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Sigiriya
Walking up to Sigiriya in the early morning mist.

Another benefit to this approach is that you’ll be able to explore Sigiriya in the early morning coolness before the day warms up and views become hazy.

A note on entrance fees and an alternative to Sigiriya: The entrance fee for foreigners to visit Sigiriya is a rather hefty $30/person. We made the decision to visit anyway, but if you are on a strict travel budget consider skipping Sigiriya and climbing nearby Pidurangala Rock for a view of Sigiriya and the surrounding landscapes.

 

Where to stay to visit Sigirya early in the day: We stayed at Gagadiya Rest just a few kilometers from the entrance to Sigiriya. This is a small family-run guesthouse with just two rooms – very clean and new. They were in the process of building a second floor and additional rooms when we stayed, so they probably have more rooms now.

We received a free tuk-tuk ride from the guesthouse in the early morning out to Sigiriya and then ate breakfast there when we returned, before heading back to Kandy that day. It’s also possible to get a great home-cooked dinner there, but ask about the price as it tends to be a bit higher than in other accommodation, perhaps because there’s not much around and you are a captive audience. You can also search for other hotels and guesthouses in Sigiriya.

NOTE: If you are short on time you can also book a day trip to Sigiriya and the Dambulla Caves from Colombo.

4. Eat your weight in Sri Lankan rice and curry.

The basic Sri Lankan meal, whether at a hole-in-the-wall or high-end restaurant, is rice and curry. Often, you’ll get a big plate or bowl of rice and then a selection of several different curries to go with it. In many simple cafeteria-style places the curries will be laid out buffet-style and you’ll point the server to which ones you want. It’s best to eat during local meal hours so that the food is freshly cooked and not sitting out for hours in the heat.

Sri Lanka Food, Rice and Curries
Rice and curries, a typical Sri Lankan lunch at a local restaurant.

Vegetarians should rejoice at Sri Lankan food. There are usually several types of daal (lentils), sabjis (mixed vegetables), beet root, eggplant and other vegetarian curry options on offer. For meat eaters, you’ll find different types of chicken, meat or fish curry options with various levels of heat and spice. In more formal restaurants you’ll have the option to choose how many curries — and which ones — you want served with your pile of rice.

Sri Lankan Food in Ella
Delicious meal at Matey Hut in Ella with a choice of four curries.

Don’t forget to seek out or ask for the different types of sambols (salads), chutneys or hot sauces available. Some of our favorites included pennywort salad (gotukola sambol), spicy coconut chutney (pol sambola), and spicy onion sambol (lunu miris). When you do, you’ll often get a nod of approval and smile from your waiter as well. For more information on Sri Lankan food, check out this article from our friend Mark.

5. Pay a visit to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy.

Inside the former royal palace complex in Kandy, Sri Dalada Maligawa (aka, Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic) is what is believed to be the relic of the tooth of Gautama Buddha, rescued from his funeral pyre in 543 BC. Almost 800 years later, the story continues with the tooth having been smuggled to Sri Lanka from India in the early 4th century.

In addition to its religious value, the relic of the tooth introduces another Game of Thrones-like twist: it is believed that whoever holds the relic also rules the country. So it became a prized possession and political tool of monarchs over the centuries. Its final resting place is now in Kandy where it is said to be secure inside the palace's main shrine.

Sri Lanka Travel, Temple of the Tooth in Kandy
One of the many elaborately decorated hallways in the Temple of the Relic of the Tooth.

Although it's not possible for visitors today to see the actual tooth relic, it is still worth visiting the palace and temple if you are in Kandy. The procession of pilgrims, devotees and rituals surrounding this sacred relic offer a bit of active devotion, of living history. You'll notice lotus blossoms and frangipani offerings heaped throughout the different temples, tucked into sacred nooks. The palace and temples grounds — with their elaborate wood carvings, gilded statues and paintings, and manicured gardens — serve up a bit of visual overload.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Kandy Temple of the Relic of the Tooth
Flower offerings at the Temple of the Relic of the Tooth. Kandy, Sri Lanka.

Note: If you happen to visit Kandy during July or August ask about the dates for that year's Esala Perahera (Festival of the Tooth), a two week interlude when the town fills with decorated elephants, dancers, ceremonies, and more.

6. Buy some creative, colorful and eco-friendly souvenirs in Kandy.

We weren’t looking for souvenirs or to buy anything when we stumbled upon EarthBound Creations (28 Yatinuwara Veediya, Kandy) as we wandered the streets of Kandy. However, the colorfully creative use of recycled materials (recycled newsprint, plastics, etc.) changed that. In addition to the environmentally sensitive use of recycled materials, this social enterprise also works with women who were affected by or displaced by the tsunami in 2004.

Sri Lanka Travel, Kandy Social Enterprise Souvenir Shop
Our recycled Sri Lankan newspaper souvenirs from EarthBound Creations in Kandy.

This means when you buy cool souvenirs and gifts here — we bought a basket and an old bi-plane made, both made of recycled cardboard and newsprint — it helps provide income and training to this disadvantaged group of women. Inventory there is cool, visually appealing, reasonably priced and feel-good.

What to do in Hatton and Adam's Peak: 2 days

7. Wake up at 2AM to climb Adam’s Peak (Sri Padaya) and enjoy sunrise at the top

This mountain is considered sacred by several religions, including all the prominent ones practiced in Sri Lanka. Sri Pada (“Sacred Footprint”), a rock formation near the peak, is considered to be the footprint of Buddha for Buddhists, of Adam for Christians and Muslims, and of Shiva for Hindus.

During your walk up, you’ll find plenty of local pilgrims of different religions and travelers along the way. You'll find even more gathered in large numbers at the top near the temples waiting for the sun to rise.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Adam's Peak Sunrise
Sunrise at Adam's Peak.

The idea is to hike up Adam's Peak in the dark so you can enjoy sunrise at the top, followed by views from the mountain in the early morning light on the way down. We set our alarms for the ungodly hour of 2AM, bundled up in multiple layers of clothing against the morning chill, got a tuk-tuk ride to the base of the mountain, and set off for the peak (2,243 m / 7,359 ft).

Although we enjoyed the anticipation of sunrise next to the Hindu and Buddhist temples at the peak while we watched them perform different ceremonies and prayers, we found the crowds and all of the cameras and selfie-sticks a bit much after a while. We headed down before the sun was fully up and left the crowds behind us.

This was such a good decision.

Sri Lanka Travel, Adam's Peak at Sunrise
Early morning light on our way down from Adam's Peak.

We had views of the nearby mountains and hills almost all to ourselves in a perfect early-morning light which lasts only a few minutes at best. It’s magical.

How long does it take to climb Adam’s Peak? It’s not a technically difficult climb, but it’s a pretty challenging walk up with long stretches of steep steps (estimated between 5,000 and 6,000 stairs). We were advised that it took about 3-3.5 hours to get to the top, but we found ourselves in in the final stretch after around 2.5 hours with another hour to wait before sunrise. So we escaped the cold at a conveniently-placed tea house before the final set of stairs and enjoyed cups of steaming milk tea.

 

It takes around 1-2 hours to return down. The steep descent can be tough on the knees, muscles and other joints. Bring a knee and/or ankle brace if you have any issues. Even better, bring a walking stick or two.

Best time of year to climb Adam’s Peak: Pilgrimage season at Adam’s Peak runs from December to May, coinciding with the best weather in the region. At other times of year you might encounter rain or get fogged-in views at the top. If you can manage it with your schedule, try to avoid the weekends as we heard the crowds swell even more with local pilgrims.

How to get to Adam’s Peak: Take the train to Hatton station and then a local bus (usually waits outside the train station) or rickshaw (about 1,000-1,500 rupees) to Delhousie.

Where to stay to climb Adam’s Peak: We recommend staying in Delhousie, the village built up near the entrance to the Adam’s Peak trail. We'd hoped to stay at Hugging Clouds, but by the time we got around to booking it was sold out so we stayed about 3-5 km away. Although our accommodation offered a free tuk-tuk transfer at 2:30AM, being that far away from the entrance was still a bit of an annoyance. And on our way back we had to search for and negotiate another tuk-tuk. You can search for other hotels and guesthouses near Adam’s Peak.

8. Rickshaw ride the hill country and tea plantations

Sometimes it’s worth the splurge of a few dollars to take your own rickshaw rather than the public bus. It's definitely a wise idea when you’re in the middle of hill country surrounded by tea plantations and you wish to take it all in a bit more slowly and to take photos along the way.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Hill Country and Tea Plantations
Tea plantations and green for as far as the eye can see.

The two routes we recommend for taking your own rickshaw: from Delhousie to Hatton (or the opposite direction) and from Haputale to Dambethenna Tea Estate (also the starting point for the hike to Lipton’s Seat). Don’t be afraid to ask your driver to stop for photo opportunities and just to enjoy the views. We found that our drivers snapped photos of the tea plantations and views with their mobile phones, just like us.

9. Take a break from Sri Lankan rice with some roti (flat bread)

Although the standard Sri Lankan fare of rice and curry is tasty, you may find yourself reaching a point of rice fatigue. That’s where roti (fried flat bread) or kottu roti (diced roti which is mixed with vegetables like a fried rice) come to the rescue.

Sri Lanka Food, Roti and Curry
Excited for a big stack of roti with curry (instead of rice).

If you still have a hankering for curries, consider switching out the rice for a stack of freshly made roti to go with your daal (lentils) and other curries. One of our favorite places for this was Malabar Restaurant and Bakers in Hatton. It was so good we ate here two days in a row as we transited through town on the way to and from Adam’s Peak.

Sri Lankan Food, Kottu Roti
Hearty plate of kottu roti, made from finely chopped roti.

Another alternative to rice and curry is kotti roti, which essentially looks like fried rice made with vegetables and different meats, but where diced roti replaces the rice. You always know when this is being made as you can hear the kottu roti master clanging away with his knives to cut the roti super fine. The flavor is hearty and the sound satisfying. And the whole experience offers a welcome break from the rice and curry routine.

What to do near Haputale + Tea Plantations: 3 days

10. Find a room with a view in a hill station

Although Nuwara Eliya and Ella might be the more popular and sophisticated hill stations in Sri Lanka’s tea country, we decided to try less-visited Haputale for a couple of days based on the recommendation of friends who lived in Sri Lanka for several years. Most of the guest houses and inns in this area are in the countryside outside of town, but we got lucky with this room and view in town.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Haputale Tea Plantations
Balcony view over the tea plantations in Haputale.

To be honest, there’s not a lot going on in the town of Haputale and not many tourist services. But, it’s a good base if you want to visit nearby tea plantations, go on some hikes in the area (e.g., Lipton’s Seat), witness local life, and just chill with a nice view for a few days.

Where to stay in Haputale: We stayed at ABC Guest House, but not all rooms have balconies and this view. Get in touch to confirm that you’ll be put in one of the upstairs rooms with a balcony. Otherwise, consider staying somewhere else in the area…and ask about a view.

11. Hike up to Lipton’s Seat and have a cup of tea

Mr. Lipton of Lipton Tea really did exist. He’s not just a marketing persona. He is credited with transforming Sri Lanka into a one of the world’s biggest tea producers after a disease wiped out much of the country's coffee bushes in the late 19th century.

Sri Lanka Travel, Lipton's Seat
Where Lipton supposedly sat overlooking his tea plantations.

Today, you can hike up through the tea plantations to the place on a hill where he used to supposedly look out over his various tea plantations to take stock and ensure everything was in order. A little make-shift hut has been set up there so you can have a cup of tea as you enjoy the views of the tea gardens below. How appropriate.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Lipton's Seat
Walking up to Lipton's Seat through the misty tea gardens.

The walk takes a couple of hours along winding plantation roads and through the different segments of Dambethenna Tea Estate tea gardens to arrive at Lipton’s Seat. Depending upon the time of day and season you might also catch the tea pickers at work at they methodically make their way through the narrow rows of tea bushes and pick only their top, green leaves.

How to hike to Lipton’s Seat: We took a tuk-tuk from Haputale to Dambethenna Tea Estate and walked the winding road from there. We stuck to the main road rather than trying to find short-cuts in the tea bushes. If you decide you don’t want to walk, there are plenty of rickshaws at the ready to take you all the up. If you have extra time, stop off at Dambethenna Tea Estate for tea tasting and a factory tour.

 

Local buses leave regularly throughout the day back to Haputale.

What to do in Ella and Nearby: 3 days

12. Enjoy sunset atop Little Adam’s Peak near Ella

In full disclosure, we hadn’t actually planned to be on the top of Little Adam’s Peak at sunset. We decided to take the “scenic route” suggested by our guesthouse owner in Ella and as is typical for us, we got a little turned around along the way. So there we were at the golden hour hiking the last leg of what is affectionately known as Little Adam’s Peak. Turns out, in the end, that our timing was just about perfect.

Sri Lanka Travel, Little Ella Peak
Capturing the waning light at Little Adam's Peak.
Sri Lanka Travel, Little Adam's Peak
Cheesy selfie atop Little Adam's Peak.
Where to stay in Ella: We opted to splurge a bit and stay at Ella Grand View on the edge of town. Rooms are new and nicely decorated, and each has its own balcony. The owner is very friendly and serves a hearty breakfast. The fastest way to get there is by walking the railroad tracks from the Ella train station. Search here for other hotels and guesthouses in Ella.

13. Take a cooking course in Ella and learn the secrets of Sri Lankan food

Because Sri Lanka is so close to India one might assume that the cuisines are the same. While there are some surface similarities between the two countries' collection of cuisines, Sri Lankan food is unique and employs different spice combinations in its masalas, lots of coconut milk, ample amounts of fresh curry and pandan leaves, spicy sides called sambols, and cinnamon.

Sri Lanka travel guide, cooking class in Ella
Getting started at a Sri Lankan cooking class in Ella.

To understand the basics of Sri Lankan food and how we could replicate some dishes at home, we took a cooking class with Lanka in Ella. Over the course of several hours we learned how to cook five different curries (carrot, beet, green bean, eggplant, and chicken), plus a sambol and salad. It was excellent.

Not only did we learn the fundamentals, but Lanka was open to answering the slew of questions we had, including those related to Sri Lankan food, what life was like during the civil war, the tourism growth spurt (or overtourism) in Ella, and just about anything else.

We highly recommended this experience. It's also a great value at around 2000 rupees ($12). There are other cooking courses in town, but be sure to ask how many dishes you’ll actually make since some of the other options only offer 2-3 curries for a similar price.

14. Hike Ella Rock in the morning sunshine

Although we didn’t get up before dawn to climb up to Ella Rock for sunrise as many advised (yes, we do enjoy our sleep), we made it up there for mid-morning. This still allowed us to enjoy some of the morning light, coolish weather, views of Little Adam’s Peak and the hill country, before the haze settled in with the afternoon heat.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Ella Rock
Enjoying the view from the top of Ella Rock.

Although Ella Rock proper gets all the limelight, we enjoyed the other overlook, one about five minutes away featuring a small Buddhist temple in a cave. There are almost no people there and it’s a good place to breathe deeply and take in the beauty around you.

How to hike to Ella Rock: The hike takes about 2-3 hours from Ella. It begins by walking the railroad tracks for several kilometers. The trail then cuts in on the left side near a couple of makeshift restaurants just past Kithaella train station. Don’t worry about walking on the railroad tracks; you will hear the train coming from a long way away. Here's an overview map of the route and a full guide.

 

Do you need a guide to hike Ella Rock? In doing our research for this hike there were all sorts of stories of people getting lost and needing to pick up a local guide to get to Ella Rock. Maybe we just got lucky with our timing, but we found that even though the trail wasn’t explicitly marked with signs, the path was clear enough to follow, especially given the other hikers along the way.

NOTE: If you are short on time, consider taking this day trip around Ella that includes a hike up to Ella Peak in the morning, visit to Nine Arches Bridge and a hike up to Little Adam's Peak.

What to do and eat in Colombo: 1-2 Days

15. Get your Sri Lankan street food fix at Galle Face Green in Colombo

For the combination of street food, ocean views, and a great place to watch the sunset, head to Galle Face Green in late afternoon. Although much of the street food here can be a bit on the fried side, there are some tasty crab and shrimp bites that you can find at select food stalls along the walkway.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Galle Face Green Street Food
Street food stalls on Galle Face Green.

For a meal with an actual seat, take your pick of one of the restaurant stalls whose menus are full of deviled and grilled seafood or chicken. It you order a beer, it's likely they'll serve the can in a bag so as to avoid their running afoul of liquor license authorities.

To see more of Colombo and learn about its history, consider taking a half-day city tour to see the main sights of the city.

Where to stay in Colombo: It might sound odd to stay in a capsule hotel in Sri Lanka, but the Star Anise Boutique Capsule Hotel was recommended to us by another traveler. Its novelty factor, the fact that it offers double bed capsules, and the price and convenient location to the train station made it an easy sell for us. If you are someone who likes a lot of space and privacy, this would not be the place for you. But, for a quick overnight stay in Colombo this worked out great for us. You can search for other hotels in Colombo here.

16. Find the Hopper master in the Colombo Old Fort area

Hoppers is a typical Sri Lankan dish featuring a bowl-shaped pancake made from rice flour and coconut milk, often with the option of a fried egg inside, which is served with a simple curry. Almost as fun as eating hoppers is watching the masters at work on the street with their hopper pans churning out perfectly formed hoppers by the hundreds.

Sri Lanka Food, Hoppers
Hoppers, the Sri Lankan breakfast of champions.

If you’re in Colombo look for this guy on York street in the Old Fort area. Hoppers with a smile!

Sri Lanka Food, Hoppers
The hopper master of old Colombo.

If you really want to go deep into Sri Lankan street food in Colombo, consider taking this Colombo street food tour.

17. Stock up on spices at the market to take home

After our Sri Lankan cooking class in Ella we were armed with a list of Sri Lankan spices, sauces and other foodstuffs we wanted to bring back home. If you are similar to us and opt for food souvenirs rather than typical souvenir tchotchkes, make a stop at the fresh market behind the Colombo bus station to stock up on all your Sri Lankan spice needs.

Sri Lanka Travel, markets
We wish we could take these home. We opted for dried spices instead.

Not only is it fun to enter a market with a shopping list (of course, we bought more than we expected), but the quality and price of spices in Sri Lanka is hard to beat. The fragrance from the cinnamon sticks and cinnamon bark is something magical. Interaction with local vendors and asking questions about different spice qualities and options is fun, too.

Recommendations for a 3rd Week in Sri Lanka

18. Disconnect and decompress in a small Sri Lankan beach village

We didn’t do a lot of beach hopping to be able to give you a definitive “best beaches in Sri Lanka” list. The reason? Once Dan found this beach and family-run guesthouse near Tangalle in the south, he decided not to leave for ten days.

Sri Lanka Travel, Tangalle beachers
Godellawela to Silent Beach…not far from Tangalle.

So while I was at my Vipassana meditation course, Dan created his own retreat on the beach. For him, mornings were about meditation, reading and a leisurely breakfast with the guest house family.

Days were about more reading on the beach, exploration of nearby towns and villages, and impromptu Sri Lankan cuisine lessons at local restaurants. And late afternoons featured more beach time and sunset with a beer under a palm swooping into a strip of sand carved by the day's waves. Sunsets, like snowflakes, no two were the same.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Southern Beaches Sunset
Colorful sunset marks the end of another day.

The long, empty beach and wide horizons combined with being disconnected and the laid back pace and limited movement were exactly what he needed to relax, read, and recharge.

Note: If the Godellawela beach area accommodation happens to be full or the beach is experiencing construction or development, consider also the Goyambokka beach area just to the east. Likewise, consider Silent Point and Paradise Beach just to the west.

 

How to get there: To get there from Colombo, take the train to Matara. From Matara take a taxi or a local bus. For Godellawela, ask the driver to drop you off on the side of the road at Muthu Resort and Restaurant. For Goyambokka, ask the driver to drop you off at the road between Grand Residence and Cafe Goyambokka.

19. Take a Vipassana 10-day silent meditation course

If you really want to disconnect from the world to reconnect with and dig deep within yourself, there’s no better way to accomplish that than by taking a Vipassana silent meditation course for ten days. Now, this is not a luxury, laid-back meditation retreat with optional massages on the side. Instead, it’s more like meditation boot camp with the morning bell at 4AM, around 10 hours of meditation each day and almost nothing for dinner.

Sri Lanka Vipassana Meditation Course
Walking to the meditation hall (taken after the course was finished and phones were returned).

But doing a Vipassana course is SO worth any temporary feeling of discomfort or lack of luxury, and will likely be one of the most rewarding and memorable experiences of your life. I won’t go into all the details as to why, and the mental and physical benefits. Dan already did an incredible job doing that in his Vipassana course article. I should note, however, that each Vipassana experience is different and unique.

Finding a Vipassana Meditation Course in Sri Lanka: I searched around on the Dhamma website for Vipassana centers in warm climates — so as to escape winter in Berlin — which had availability when I had a break in my schedule. Finding an available Vipassana course in Sri Lanka motivated this trip, and its timing, to Sri Lanka.

 

I chose Dhamma Sobha Vipassana Meditation Centre, a couple of hours by public bus outside of Colombo. I had a good experience there, but I would have preferred a bit more green space to walk and wander during the free time between meditation sessions. If I were to return to Sri Lanka for a Vipassana course I would instead go to Dhamma Kuta Vipassana Centre near Kandy as it is reported to have really lovely grounds and gardens with mountain views.

Essential Sri Lanka Travel Information

The following practical travel information is aimed to help you plan your trip to Sri Lanka, from visas to flights to train tickets, so that it all goes smoothly without any unpleasant surprises.

Day Trips and Other Tours in Sri Lanka

Although two weeks in Sri Lanka isn't a ton of time, we did have enough flexibility in our schedule to organize things last minute and piece things together on the spot. However, if you have a tighter schedule or want to book day trips, transfers and other activities in advance (recommended for high season) we can suggest using our partner, Get Your Guide. It offers many different day trips and other tours in Sri Lanka with no booking fees and free cancellation up to 24 hours before.

In addition to the recommendations above, here are a few other day trips and tours that you might consider doing in Sri Lanka.

  • Day Trip to the UNESCO City of AnuradhapuraUnfortunately, we did not have time to visit Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka's first capital and an important Buddhist religious site. However, it's on our list for our next visit as friends of ours who used to live in Sri Lanka recommended it.
  • Minneriya National Park Day Trip:  Seeing elephants in the wild is pretty remarkable, and Sri Lanka has one of the highest populations of wild Asian elephants. On this day trip to Minneriya National Park from Colombo you'll have a chance to see elephants in the wild (MUCH better than seeing them at a center). This is a long day, but all the transport is taken care of for you so you can relax and enjoy.
  • Colombo City Tour by Tuk Tuk: We went through Colombo very quickly on our way in and out of the country and wish we had spent more time there. Given the size of the city, a tuk tuk city tour like this would allow you to see the main highlights of the city within a short period of time with all the history, stories and context that only a local guide can bring.

Best time to visit Sri Lanka

The country has multiple monsoon seasons so “best time to visit Sri Lanka” depends much on where you want to go. For the southern, central and western parts of the country (i.e., where we were) December – May is considered the best time. In the eastern part of the country, April or May to September is considered best. Weather is changing everywhere and monsoons seem to come and go at different times each year.

Sri Lanka Travel, Beaches
Big waves with the early monsoons in southern Sri Lanka.

How to Get a Sri Lanka Visa

Most nationalities need a visa to Sri Lanka. One can be obtained online easily and quickly. Just fill out the e-visa to Sri Lanka application and pay $30 needed for a 30-day visa. Our applications were approved within 24-hours. Although we carried a copy of our visa approval, the immigration officer did not ask for it.

Flights to Sri Lanka

Flying from Europe we had quite a few connection options to Colombo, Sri Lanka (CMB). Many of the European flights do land very late at night or early morning so we booked a hotel near the airport for that first night. You can also pre-book your airport transfer to make it less stressful when you arrive.

We often use Skyscanner to check availability and price of flights as its database includes all low-cost airlines. Once you find your best route or price then you can book directly through the airline with no extra fees.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Rickshaw art
Travel-inspired rickshaw art in Colombo.

How to Book Train Tickets in Sri Lanka

Many reserved seats on popular train routes sell out early. Don’t be deterred, though. You can always get on the train you want with a 2nd or 3rd class ticket purchased the same day, without a seat assignment.

To get a feel for the train routes and how you might want to plan your own train journey through the country check out this train route map on the official Sri Lanka Railways website. You can also find schedules and prices for trains there as well.

Traveling by train without a reservation: Many of the local trains don’t have reserved seating so you just need to show up 30-60 minutes before the train to buy a 2nd or 3rd-class ticket (usually very cheap). Then, it’s a matter of waiting on the platform for the train to arrive, and positioning yourself close to the doors so you can be one of the first to enter and snag a seat. Even if you don’t end up with a seat, don’t worry. One is likely to come available at another station.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide, Train Travel
Traveling without a train reservation = a fun balancing act.

Buying train reservations: If you want a bit of comfort on the train with an actual assigned seat then you’ll need to do a bit of advance planning to figure out your route and dates of travel. We went straight to the main train station (Colombo Fort Railway Station) when we arrived in Colombo and bought as many reserved seats as we could for the train routes we knew we wanted to take. Despite this being 10 to 14 days in advance of the actual travel dates, some routes were already booked full.

We have heard, but have not tried ourselves, that it's possible to work with local travel agents to buy reserved train tickets in advance. Seat 61, the website of all things train travel, has advice on how to do that here.

Finding and Booking Hotels in Sri Lanka

Although we traveled during the high season we were able to make most of our hotel bookings in Sri Lanka just a couple of days before — or even the day of — our arrival without any problem. We mostly stayed at small, family-run guesthouses and used Booking.com to find and book accommodation.

English is spoken at varying levels in smaller guesthouses so we found booking accommodation through Booking.com was easier, immediate and more secure than trying to call and make a reservation over the phone or by email.

Buying a SIM card in Sri Lanka

When you arrive at Bandaranaike International Airport airport in Sri Lanka you’ll find several mobile phone operators offering different “tourist plans” SIM card for mobile calling and internet. We ended up choosing Mobitel SIM cards with several gigabytes of mobile data and a chunk of SMS and calling minutes for around $10. It was easy to set up and we had pretty good coverage throughout Sri Lanka during our trip.

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Alay Region, Kyrgyzstan: An Experiential Travel Guide https://uncorneredmarket.com/alay-region-kyrgyzstan-travel-guide/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/alay-region-kyrgyzstan-travel-guide/#respond Thu, 12 Sep 2019 17:41:22 +0000 https://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=33428 Travel to the Alay Region in southern Kyrgyzstan and you’ll find a growing, off-the-beaten-path, accessible adventure destination. Experiences run from mid-alpine treks and horse treks in the Alay Mountains to high-alpine experiences up into the Pamir Mountain peaks and epic ... Continue Reading

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Travel to the Alay Region in southern Kyrgyzstan and you’ll find a growing, off-the-beaten-path, accessible adventure destination. Experiences run from mid-alpine treks and horse treks in the Alay Mountains to high-alpine experiences up into the Pamir Mountain peaks and epic Pamir Highway road trips into the high desert. Paths are dotted with yurts, shepherds and high pasture nomadic culture along the way. For multi-country Central Asia travels and itineraries, the region also serves as a crossroads between Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and China.

This article explains how to plan and organize a trip to the Alay Region, including what to do and see in the Alay Mountains and Pamir Mountains.

Peak Lenin, Kyrgyzstan
Our introduction to the Alay Region 12 years ago = fresh snow in the Pamir Mountains.

As our jeep gripped the road and moved us closer to the sky, I began to understand the words of the friend who urged us on our first visit 12 years ago.

“So, there's this part of Kyrgyzstan most travelers don't really know about.”

Horses gathered in their own orchestrated processions, layers of freshly snow-draped mountains as their backdrop. The light bent as it tends to do in this part of the world, arcing into the otherworldly. The wind kicked up, delivering a floating, faraway sensation. Villages and lives and culture had stitched themselves into tiny pockets, scattered within stacks of mega-mountains as far as the eye could see.

Before I even knew I wanted to travel, it was places like this that called me.

That feeling of alpine lift, of high desert mystery along the Pamir Highway was only a taste. Since then, we've visited the region twice more, widening our view — immersing ourselves in the Alay Mountains and getting up close to the Pamir peaks we'd seen only from a distance those years ago.

Dramatic mountains and yurts cut the sky, as local families and roving shepherds offer a sense of what it means to be human here. For visitors, peak experience with a touch of nomadic grounding.

Alay Region Southern Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide - Yurts and Mountains
Nomadic culture and high mountains. The Alay Region of southern Kyrgyzstan.

The Alay Region — a remote trading and transport crossroads between cultures and neighboring countries like Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and China — is easier to get to than it first appears. Despite this, Alay has a distinctly Kyrgyz feel, as exhibited by families in yurts tending to animals on the jailoo (high pasture) in the summer.

As such, most tourism in this region is community-driven and family-run, and travelers' money tends to stay local. This article is a resource to access it all.

Alay Region Travel Guide - Kyrgyzstan
Layers of the Alay Mountains, from Ak-Tor Pass.

A note on naming convention to keep things straight: Locally, the Alay Region = Alay District + Chong-Alay District. Relevant for travelers: Alay Region = Alay Mountains + Pamir Mountains.

How to use this Alay Region Experiential Travel Guide: In this comprehensive travel guide we’ve included everything you need to plan and organize a trip to explore the Alay Region of southern Kyrgyzstan. This includes not only ideas of what to do, places to visits and treks in the Alay Mountains and Pamir Mountains, but also what to expect in terms of landscape, altitude, how to get around (transportation), connecting with local people and cultures, accommodation, food, and more. For more general information on the country, check out our extensive guide on traveling in Kyrgyzstan

Alay Region Travel Guide: What to do and See

Trek in the Alay Mountains to Experience Nature and Kyrgyz Culture Together

There’s no shortage of stunning mountains and landscapes in a multi-day Alay Mountain trekking experience. Thanks to a network of family yurt camps across the main Alay Mountain treks and trails, the experiences are set apart by a connection with local people and culture.

Alay Region Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide, Yurt Stays
Dan settles in at our yurt stay on the Heights of Alay trek.

After a long day of walking, you are welcomed by a family to their yurt camp. Families not only provide a home-cooked meal and warm place to sleep, but also a glimpse into what their summer life is like on the jailoo (high pasture) as they tend to their animals, make fresh creams and breads, and go about daily life.

In addition, the trails you’ll walk tend to trace traditional local shepherd paths. You’ll encounter curious people along the way who want to know where you’re from and what you think of Kyrgyzstan, its landscape and its nature. In other words, when you trek in the Alay Mountains you’ll never forget that you’re in Kyrgyzstan thanks to the engagement with people and nomadic culture along the way.

Where to trek in the Alay Mountains:

Our Alay Mountains trekking guide provides comprehensive information on all the different treks, how to organize them, how to book a tour or guide, when to go, and everything else you need to know. For simplicity in this article, we’ll divide the Alay Mountains into two areas: low and high, and we'll provide examples of the different types of trekking and cultural experiences you’ll find in each.

Trekking in the Lower Alay Mountains

This section of the Alay Mountains is further north in the region and a bit closer to the city of Osh. The trek trailheads begin near the town of Gulcha. Landscapes tend to be green, textured by layers of valleys and hills, and accented by granite peaks.

Alay Region Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide
Enjoying a break and the views at Ak Tor Pass in the lower Alay Mountains.

Don’t let the “lower” fool you — many of the treks cross Ak-Tor pass (3,500 meters/11,500 feet) and feature sweeping views. If you don’t have experience hiking at altitude, this area offers a nice way to acclimatize on a three to five day trek before tackling a trek in the high Alay Mountains or heading up into the Pamirs on a road trip or trek.

In full disclosure, we set off in this area with relatively low expectations since our time followed time in High Alay Mountains and the Pamirs. Despite that, we found the three-day Ak-Tor Pass trek really enjoyable — landscapes were varied and the layers of granite peaks and valleys all around did not disappoint.

Alay Region Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide - Trekking in Lower Alay Mountains
Surveying the first big ascent of the trip. Ak-Tor Pass trek, Day 1.

Note: We did a 3-day Ak-Tor Pass trek on foot. Other options include five days on horseback as the Truly Nomadic Lands tour. Although multi-day horseback riding treks are not our preference, we can see how these hills would be enjoyable and also appropriate for a beginner on horseback.

Trekking in the High Alay Mountains

This is the more southern segment of the Alay Mountain range, whose trailheads tend to cluster near Sary Mogul village. Our first trekking experiences in this region were the Koshkol Lakes and Best of Alay Trek (8 days). This area still holds a special place in our hearts – for the combination of otherworldly mountain vistas like Sary Mogul Pass (4,303 meters / 14,100 feet) and the diversity of alpine lakes, green valleys, red rock canyons and views of nearby snowcaps.

Alay Region Travel Guide, Trekking in the Alay Mountains - Kyrgyzstan
Otherworldly Sary Mogul Pass in the high Alay Mountains.

Today, all of the main treks in the high Alay Mountains are also connected by yurt camps. Though you can camp if you wish, carrying tents and camping equipment is no longer required. This makes the treks easier and less expensive to organize, and also provides more interaction with locals along the way.

Alay Region Travel Guide, Southern Kyrgyzstan
Views open up of the snow-covered Pamir Mountains as we cross Jiptick Pass.

Note: Since treks in this area reach some pretty high altitudes, consider acclimatizing with day treks around Sary Mogul or some short treks in the lower Alay Mountains.

Trek into the Pamir Mountains for High Alpine Extremes

The Pamir Mountains are among some of the world's highest mountains. Located in the southern part of the Alay Region, the Pamirs form a natural mountainous border between southern Kyrgyzstan and northern Tajikistan. The line of high, snow-covered peaks— with Peak Lenin (7,134 meters/23,406 feet) as the highest of the Pamir peaks in Kyrgyzstan — is impressive and seems to float just above the plains below where animals graze.

Alay Region Travel Guide, Trekking in the Pamir Mountains of southern Kyrgyzstan
Peak Lenin and the Pamir Mountains guide our way towards Traveler's Peak.

Peak Lenin attracts alpinists and serious mountain climbers from around the world. However, there are other day trek and multi-day trekking options in the area for non-alpinists hoping to get a close-up taste of the Pamirs, its mountain routes splashed with colorful minerals, alpine lakes and glaciers. And you can access it all without the need for any special gear or training.

Alay Region Travel Guide, Trekking in Pamir Mountains
A close-up view of the Pamir Mountains.

As you ascend into the Pamir Mountains, and once you leave the yurts of Tulpar-Kol Lake, the atmosphere becomes less coupled to Kyrgyz culture and more connected to the survival demands of professional alpinism. Particularly at the various Peak Lenin camps, many of the people you’ll encounter aim to summit Peak Lenin, and are spending time at the different base and ascent camps in an effort to acclimatize.

For us, this provided an interesting glimpse into the world of mountaineering and all that it takes to prepare and undertake such a climb. While we weren’t tempted to join them (this time, anyhow), it made us appreciate even more the beauty and stunning landscapes that we were able to experience as ordinary hikers and non-professional mountain climbers.

Where to trek in the Pamir Mountains

The jumping off point for treks in this area of the Pamir Mountains is Tulpar-Kol Lake, located about an hour outside of Sary Mogul village. Several yurt camps are located there and can serve as your base. The treks available are typically only available in July and August since the mountain passes are otherwise snow-covered and impassable.

Day hike to Traveler’s Pass (4,100 meters/13,450 feet)

This is a long day of hiking (19 km/12 miles), with an early start from Tulpar-Kol Lake. You hike your way past Lenin Peak Base Camp and nearby high pastures to the ascent up Traveler’s Pass. Don’t just stop once you get to the sign at the pass, though. Go just down the grassy area below and enjoy the lower panoramic view of the snow and glacier-covered Pamir Mountains.

Alay Region Travel Guide - Pamir Mountain trekking, Traveler's Pass
Traveler's Pass opens up to great Pamir Mountain views.

If you have more time continue down the pass for another couple kilometers until you reach what might be described as “Watercolor” valley. Then, return the same way you came and enjoy a well-earned dinner back at Tulpar-Kol yurt camp.

2-3 Day Trek to Lenin Peak Camp 1 and Yuhina Peak (5,100 meters/16,730 feet)

This trek that is included in this Visit Alay Lenin Peak Base Camp Trek (8 days) is designed for those with a bit more time and experience trekking at high altitudes. It's also for those who want to see more of the Pamir Mountains and its extreme landscapes.

The first day includes hiking from Tulpar-Kol Lake over Traveler’s Pass to Lenin Peak Camp 1 (4,400 meters/13,150 feet). It’s a challenging 15+ km / 9+ mile day that takes you through some surreal high mountain landscapes and colors between Traveler’s Pass and Camp 1. Enjoy a hearty dinner at Camp 1, and drink plenty of water well before bedtime to help with the high altitude.

Alay Region Travel Guide - Pamir Mountain hiking
Pamir landscapes, like a watercolor painting.
Alay Region Travel Guide- Pamir Mountain Trekking
A night at Peak Lenin Camp, an alpinist's world connected to summiting Peak Lenin.

Wake up early the next day to begin climbing up to Yuhina Peak. (You may need to request an early breakfast box for 7AM, since standard breakfast at Ak-Sai Camp 1 does not seem to begin until 8AM.) It’s a challenging, steep ascent through scree to get to the peak. Be sure to proceed slowly and steadily. Allow your body to adjust to the altitude. At the top you’ll cross a snow field to reach the peak.

Alay Region Travel Guide, Pamir Mountain trekking in southern Kyrgyzstan
Crossing the snow on the final ascent to Yuhina Peak (5,100 meters/16,730 ft).

Enjoy a well-deserved break at the top. Panoramic views of Lenin Peak and the Pamir Mountain sweep around you in all directions. Return the way you came to Camp 1. Have lunch there before beginning the walk back down.

Note: Several trekking agencies run Lenin Peak Base Camps, as well as camps at higher elevations. Our trek was arranged and all our accommodation was booked by Visit Alay in Osh. We stayed at Ak-Sai Camp 1 and found it well-run, clean and professional. Although the tent and sleeping mat is provided you'll need to bring a very warm sleeping bag comfort rated to -10 C/14 F with you (Visit Alay provided this to us). It’s geared more towards professional climbers than day-trekkers so it has a bit of a hearty mountaineering atmosphere, complete with sun struck alpinists and gruffly-spoken Russian.

Experience the Pamirs on a 2-day horse trek to Tuyuk and Booke yurt camps

If you want to enjoy the backdrop of the dramatic snow-covered Pamir Mountains, but with less extreme climbs and altitudes, consider the two-day trek on horse or foot from Tulpar-Kol Lake to Tuyuk and Booke yurt camps. The route takes you around and through high pastures and rolling hills. This should also be suitable for beginner horse riders.

Alay Region Travel Guide, Pamir Yurt Camps in southern Kyrgyzstan
Late afternoon light over Booke yurt camp at the foot of the Pamir Mountains.

Both yurt camps are at the base of the Pamir Mountains and also feature beautiful views of the Alay Mountains across the valley.

Note: To avoid back-tracking to Tulpar-Kol Lake you can arrange a pickup through the yurt camp or CBT Sary Mogul to take you from Booke yurt camp to Sary Mogul or Osh.

Learn about Kyrgyz nomadic traditions and life on the jailoo

Not far from the village of Daroot Korgon is a lush valley filled with agricultural fields, high pastures for animals, wildflowers, beehives and yurt camps. It’s a beautiful place to spend some time to learn about traditional Kyrgyz culture and life on the jailoo (high pasture).

Alay Region Travel Guide, Cultural Tour - Southern Kyrgyzstan
Several families live together at this yurt camp during the summer.

Our host for the morning, Yrysbubu, has come up to this area for 54 years – spending each summer living on the jailoo. She takes care of cows, sheep and other animals, lives in the family yurt, and continues the traditions and foods of Kyrgyz nomads of her ancestors. She showed us how to make chavaty, or bread cooked on a kazan (big metal pot) directly on the fire.

Alay Region Travel Guide, Cultural and Culinary Tour - Southern Kyrgyzstan
Baking bread on a kazan and open fire.

Before retreating to the yurt to enjoy a lunch of freshly cooked chavaty and mylama (flat bread slathered with kaimak or fresh sour cream), we also had a chance to roll out korut (salty yogurt balls). This traditional Kyrgyz snack is dried out in the summer sun and can then be stored and eaten throughout the winter. Our guide explained that korut mixed with water creates a hearty drink or soup base that can keep people full for hours, providing a necessary source of energy for workers in the mountains and fields.

Alay Region Travel Guide, Cultural Tour of Yurt Camp - southern Kyrgyzstan
Time to make the korut (salty yogurt).

Although we'd spent time in yurt camps along our treks, it was fun to have the time to take part in daily rituals on the jailoo and absorb a more thorough explanation of the traditions and history behind them.

How to organize: Contact Ak-Bata Guest House in Daroot-Korgon. The owner is the daughter of the grandmother on the jailoo.

Bonus: If you have extra time, stop by one of the nearby beekeepers on your way back to Daroot-Korgon to sample esparcet honey. This valley is known for a high quality, pesticide-free honey made from sainfoin (esparcet) flowers and nettle. If you can't buy honey directly from the beekeeper, you can find containers of local honey at the markets in Daroot-Korgon or at certain shops and hotels in Osh.

Alay Region Travel Guide, Esparcet Honey - Southern Kyrgyzstan
High altitude beekeeping…with a view of the Pamir Mountains.

Stay in a yurt

There is certainly no shortage of opportunities to stay in a yurt when you’re traveling in the Alay Region. It's one of the highlights.

Alay Region Travel Guide, Yurt Stays - Southern Kyrgyzstan
A night in a yurt, an Alay Region highlight.

Even if you don’t plan to hike or trek, spending a night in a yurt is a must. There are several yurt camps accessible to non-hikers that are worth seeking out. For example, Tulpar-Kol Lake in the Pamir Mountains is accessible by car and offers several yurt-stay options. It's also possible to arrange a transfer to/from nearby Booke yurt camp instead of making your way there by horse or on foot. Ask around at Visit Alay, CBT Sary Mogul or your guesthouse in Sary Mogul or Sary Tash for options.

Alay Region Travel Guide, Community Tourism in Southern Kyrgyzstan
One of the best things about staying in a yurt = local family hosts.

What to expect when staying in a yurt

Yurts are traditional circular Kyrgyz nomadic homes that can be easily assembled, disassembled and transported. They are constructed from cured wooden components, secured with handwoven straps and covered with heavy felt. The inside is usually decorated with colorful felt carpets called shyrdaks whose designs are nature-inspired. The roof of the yurt features the tunduk, a circular opening serving skylight and ventilation. At night, the felt cover is drawn over the top of the yurt, making it dark and warm.

Alay Region Travel Guide, Eating in a Yurt - Southern Kyrgyzstan
Welcome tea and snacks in a yurt.

Upon arriving at a yurt camp, you will typically be invited inside for a welcome tea. Given the typical late afternoon arrival to yurt camps on a trek, think of this as the Kyrgyz version of high tea. Often a cloth is set down, and large cushions arranged around it for seating. In addition to the actual tea you will likely be served a combination of bread, borsok (traditional fried bread), homemade jams, honey, sweets, nuts and perhaps freshly-made yogurt or kaimak (cream). You may even be offered kymys, fermented mare’s milk. Although you may be tempted to eat everything in sight, remember to pace yourself for the dinner to follow.

Staying at a yurt camp usually includes a welcome tea, dinner, and breakfast. Be sure to let your guide or your host know in advance if you are vegetarian or have any food allergies or restrictions (e.g., lactose or gluten intolerant) as they will prepare all food fresh for you. Dinner will consist of a hot meal — soup or a hearty dish of plov (rice, vegetables and meat), potatoes mixed with meat or something similar. Breakfast often includes more bread with honey or preserves, as well as soup or sometimes fresh yogurt (ayran).

Everything happens inside the yurt – eating, sleeping, and occasionally even cooking. At night your hosts will clear everything out and lay a series of mats on the ground for you to sleep on, atop which they’ll pile heavy blankets. A yurt in the mountains approximates a womb-like environment. It’s perfectly dark and quiet. We’ve been known to accidentally sleep more than twelve hours in a yurt, so set your alarm if your plans require an early start the next morning.

Alay Region Travel Guide, Staying in a Yurt - Southern Kyrgyzstan
At most yurt stays you'll sleep on the floor, but a few also include simple beds.

Some yurts feature wood-fired or coal-burning stoves inside, making it easy to heat the yurt at night in case temperatures drop outside. There are almost always extra blankets available so don’t be afraid to ask for more if you think you might get cold. Although the bedding includes sheets and duvet-covers, we often bring a sleep sack so as to provide an extra layer of warmth and comfort.

Yurt camps are typically located near streams so there is easy access to water. Most will have a simple gravity-fed sink available for washing hands and brushing teeth. An outhouse or dry toilet (usually with toilet paper) will be a short walking distance from the yurt area. Don’t expect a shower.

Things slow down at the yurt camp, so enjoy the quiet, peace and disconnection from the world. Re-connect to nature and life around you.

Start your Pamir Highway road trip to Tajikistan

The Pamir Highway serves up one of the most epic road trips in the world as it winds its way, including through the Alay Region of southern Kyrgyzstan. This begins (or ends, depending upon the direction you choose) in Osh and continues along the M41 through the Pamir-Alay Region to the Wakhan Valley and along to Khorog, Tajikistan.

Central Asia Guide, Planning and Itinerary
Planning our route along the Pamir Highway from Kyrgyzstan to Tajikistan.

The journey can take anywhere from five days (if you’re moving quickly and not stopping much) to up to two weeks for side trips and treks. Many people only spend one night in Sary Mogul or Sary Tash village in Kyrgyzstan before moving onto Tajikistan.

However, if you have more time and flexibility we’d recommend stopping off for a couple of days for day hikes, multi-day treks or yurt stays in the Alay Region. You'll immerse yourself in some stunning mountain scenery and have the opportunity to connect with Kyrgyz nomadic culture and people. Moreover, you'll also help your body acclimatize to the high altitude. Particularly if you aren't visiting other destinations in Kyrgyzstan, don't miss this opportunity to learn.

Booking a Pamir Highway trip: When we did our Pamir Highway trip twelve years ago from Osh to Khorog (similar to this Pamir Highway tour) it was challenging to organize as there wasn't a lot of information available on how and where to book a tour or driver from Osh. Or, how to find other travelers to share the jeep and costs. Fortunately, that has changed so it's easier to plan and book a trip. Visit Alay (the local tour company in Osh that arranged our treks above) has an online departure schedule of Pamir Highway tours with available spots if you want to join an existing trip. They also offer different options of Pamir Highway tours, from 5 to 13 days, that cover different routes and include some hiking as well.

Travel Information for the Alay Region

There's not a lot of information available online about traveling in the Alay Region and how to organize a trip. We've tried to incorporate the most relevant and important travel details here.

How to organize treks and experiences in the Alay Region

If you want to travel independently and do self-guided treks, you have a lot of options. All the treks mentioned in our Alay Trekking Guide include links to uploaded digital GPS tracks. With the network of yurt camps along the trails, you don't need to worry about carrying camping equipment.

If you are like us, however, and prefer to trek with a local guide and have everything organized so that the only thing you have to worry about is enjoying yourself in the mountains, then Visit Alay in Osh is your best option for the region. They organized all the treks and visits that we've done in Alay over the last two years. We were happy with the guides, transportation, accommodation and other logistics. Disclosure: Our visits were part of tourism development projects so these treks and experiences were provided to us without cost so we could evaluate them. In any event, we confidently recommend them to anyone.

Visit Alay not only knows well all the treks and experiences possible in the Alay Region, but as the local Community Based Tourism (CBT) organization they have been responsible for some of the infrastructure and are focused on working with and supporting local family businesses. A portion of their profits goes back to training and providing investment for family yurt camps, trekking guides, and other small businesses and local providers. The manager of Visit Alay, Talant Toksonbaev, is dedicated to ensuring that tourism benefits local people. He's assembled a solid network to do this and is always trying to include more people as tourism grows in the region.

When to visit the Alay Region

The best time to visit the Alay Region is during the summer months, mid-June to early September. This is when the mountain passes are cleared of snow so the trekking trails are open, the yurt camps have been set up on the jailoo, and it's warm weather during the day. High season is mid-July to mid-August. Most yurt camps begin to close up late August or early September as they have to get their children back to the village to begin the school year.

One benefit of going early in the season – late June to mid-July — is that the valleys will be more green and filled with wildflowers. We've visited the Alay Region twice in late August and although the hills are more dry as it's the end of the summer we had the trails and yurt camps to ourselves.

The treks and trails in the lower Alay Mountains (e.g., Ak-Tor Pass Trek or Nomadic Lands) are accessible from May through September and even possibly to early October. You can also travel the Pamir Highway during most months of the year, but May to September tend to be the best months because of cold and snow.

What to pack for the Alay Region

The Alay Region is mostly about the outdoors and adventure activities, so don't worry about bringing anything formal or fancy. Since much of the Alay Region is high desert it's important to pack layers as it can get quite warm during the day and drop to low temperatures at night. In addition, some areas are really windy (e.g., Sary Tash or Sary Mogul) so it's important to have windproof or waterproof jackets to help cut the wind. Sturdy clothes and gear that can be mixed and matched and worn multiple times works best as there's not a lot of laundry opportunities.

For more details read our packing list for trekking in the Alay Mountains and our general trekking packing list.

Using Osh as your organizing gateway for Alay

Osh is not only the second biggest city in Kyrgyzstan, but it's also the easiest transportation and organizing hub for any treks or exploration of the Alay Region. You'll find all the services and you need in Osh for your travels in Alay — tours and organized treks, trekking guides, camping and trekking gear rental, snacks and food for the mountains, and more.

Not to mention, Osh is worth a visit due to its mixing bowl of cultures and Silk Road history. It's worth hanging out there for a couple of days to rest up, plan your Alay adventures, do a foodie tour or walking tour of the city, explore the huge Jayma Bazaar, and enjoy the services (e.g., good coffee) of a big city before heading into the mountains.

Accommodation in Alay Region

Accommodation in the Alay Region usually includes small, family-run guesthouses or yurt camps (mentioned above). Don't expect luxury, but you can expect clean rooms with access to a shower (often hot water) and toilet. Many places offer shared rooms, usually divided by gender. However, we've noticed that the availability of double or private rooms seems has steadily increased over the last couple of years. For example, Peak Lenin Guesthouse in Sary Mogul now offers double rooms with shower and toilet facilities inside the building. This is very welcome for traveling couples like us.

A few Alay guesthouses now offer the option of online booking. Check availability and prices of accommodation in Sary Mogul, Sary Tash, and Gulcha.

If you're coming through Osh on the way to Alay, you can easily book hotels in Osh online. On our last trip through Osh we stayed at Rayan Hotel and found it comfortable and well-located. It also serves a hearty breakfast.

Food and Clean Water in the Alay Region

Most of the food you'll eat in the Alay Region will be served by guesthouses or yurt camps. On the plus side, this means that it's always homemade and cooked fresh. On the down side it means a limited choice of what you'll eat since there are usually no menus and everyone tends to eat the same thing. This often includes a variation of rice, potatoes or pasta combined with some meat and vegetables. Usually, there are several rounds of bread on the table served with some combination of honey, jams, ghee (clarified butter), kaimak (local sour cream) or homemade yogurt.

Alay Region Travel Guide - Eating in Yurts
Yurt eating. You'll never go hungry.

If you are vegetarian or have food allergies (e.g., gluten, lactose, nuts, etc.) be sure to let your guide or hosts know immediately so they can prepare something different for you. Meat features prominently in many Kyrgyz dishes so vegetarians may want to bring nuts or other protein snacks to ensure a balanced diet. You can also request an egg be added to your rice or potatoes.

Possible cooking class option: If you're interested in learning how to cook traditional Kyrgyz food, and specialties from the Alay Region, ask at Lenin Peak Guesthouse if this is an option. We were able to test a cooking class with Baktugul, the mother of the house. She taught us how to make kesme plov handmade noodles stewed with meat, potatoes and tomatoes.

Alay Region Travel Guide, Cooking Class - Sary Mogul, Kyrgyzstan
The granddaughter looks a little skeptical of Audrey's noodle-making skills.

The 1-hour cooking class was fun and interactive. Plus, the resulting meal made for a great lunch. We've also suggested a manti (dumpling) class. So ask about that if you happen to stay there.

Trekking snacks

Our trekking guide kept us well fed with picnic lunches and snacks along the trail. Nuts and dried fruit from the Osh bazaar make for tasty, healthy snacks. However, Snickers bars (don't laugh) are also kind of magical, particularly when they're offered after a grueling ascent. They are available in most villages.

Clean water

Most guesthouses and yurt camps will provide you with boiled water if you request it. So you can refill your reusable water bottle or water bladder. We carried both as we found that the water bladder was best for drinking continually during the trek to stay hydrated while the water bottle was better for drinking water at stops.

Please do not buy bottled water and carry it into the mountains. This approach will only leave a trail of plastic waste since there is no recycling in the area. Read more on how to reduce single-use plastics when traveling.

We recommend carrying water purification drops or a SteriPEN with you just in case. This way, you'll always be assured of having a path to purifying your water. Use them if you need to refill your water bottle along the trail and you're not sure of the cleanliness of the stream or if you want to be extra careful about the water you've received from your host.

How to acclimatize in the Alay Region

Altitude sickness is nothing to mess with. It's not only uncomfortable, but it can actually be very dangerous for your health if not addressed properly and immediately. The best way to help yourself avoid altitude sickness issues is by taking a few days to acclimatize properly before going into the high mountains for a high altitude trek or a Pamir Highway road trip.

At a minimum, consider spending a couple of days in a mountain village (e.g., Sary Tash or Sary Mogul) and be sure to walk around a lot to see how your body handles movement in the thin air. Even better, do an acclimatization hike. For example, hike up to Koshkol Lakes where you go up in altitude during the day, but then sleep at lower elevation (e.g., Sary Mogul village). Another good option is to do a short two to three day trek in the lower Alay Mountains to accustom your body to hiking and sleeping at slightly higher altitude.

In addition, be sure to drink lots of water when in the mountains. Move slowly, too. There's no race to the top. Slower movement and fewer breaks is better for your body then moving quickly and taking longer breaks with a heaving chest to recover.

How to get to the Alay Region

Although the Alay Region (southern Kyrgyzstan) is remote, it's more accessible than you might think. There are several transportation options and routes to get there from within Kyrgyzstan, and from neighboring Uzbekistan, Tajikistan or China. The city of Osh serves as the main transportation jumping off point for shared taxis, marshrutkas and private transport going into the Alay Region. Then, there are public and private transport options between villages and towns inside the region.

For a full description of all the ways to get to Osh, read this.

Traveling to Alay Region from inside Kyrgyzstan

If you're already traveling in Kyrgyzstan and want to get to Osh and then the Alay Region you have a couple of options with flights or land transport (e.g., shared taxi, marshrutkas, private transport).

Flights from Bishkek to Osh: During our recent visits to Osh we flew from Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan's capital. It's a quick 45-minute flight to Osh on Pegasus Airway/Air Manas that is inexpensive (e.g., $30-$45) and easy to book online (we usually search for flights with Skyscanner). If you time it right you can even arrive in Bishkek from your international flight and then hop on a flight to Osh a couple of hours later.

Note: In the summer months, 50-minute flights to Osh from Tamchy (north shore of Lake Issyk-Kul) are sometimes offered. If you're spending time in Karakol or the Issyk-Kul region, this is a good option.

Traveling to Osh and Alay by land: Kyrgyzstan has a network of shared taxis and marshtrutkas that will take you almost everywhere if you have enough time. The most common land connections to Osh are from Bishkek (shared taxi only), Jalal-Abad (2 hours), and Naryn. From other parts of the country it's often easiest and fastest to return to Bishkek and travel south from there.

To Alay from China and Tajikistan border crossings

If you're crossing the Irkeshtam border from China (Xinjiang Region) there are usually shared taxis available that will take you to Sary Tash village, which is one of the jumping off points for the Alay Region. If you're coming from the Kyzylart – Bor Dobo border crossing with Tajikistan along the Pamir Highway you'll go through Sary Tash and/or Sary Mogul villages.

To Alay from Uzbekistan and Dostuk border crossing

It has become much easier the last years to travel to Alay (and Kyrgyzstan) overland from Uzbekistan. The borders have opened up and Uzbekistan now offers a visa-free regime (up to 30 days) for many countries. The Dostuk border crossing with Uzbekistan is just 10 km outside of Osh and there are shared taxis or marshrutkas waiting at the border to take you to the city. From there you can arrange onward transport into the Alay Region.

Transportation Options: How to get around the Alay Region

Alay has a network of shared taxis and marshrutkas that will take you between villages and towns in the region. However, you will often need private transport to get to many of the trailheads or yurt camps. This can either be booked in advance as part of an organized trek or tour, or you can organize it at your local guest house. Try to join an existing transfer or departure to reduce your costs and your environmental footprint.

For example, the route between Sary Mogul and Tulpar-Kol Lake is quite popular in the summer months as many travelers spend time at the yurt camps there and do some hiking in the Pamir Mountains. Ask around at your local guest house, with other travelers, or contact Visit Alay to see when a vehicle might be heading up there and if space is available.


Disclosure: Our experiences in the Alay Region are drawn from our recent visits as consultants on the Helvetas Bai Alai tourism development project and previously on the USAID Business Growth Initiative (BGI) program. These projects included evaluating existing and emerging treks and tourism products in this region; experiences were provided to us. In addition, we traveled through the Alay Region in 2007 as part of our own journey across Central Asia. As always, the thoughts and opinions contained herein — the what, the why, and the how — are entirely our own.

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Taking a Tour in India: Pros and Cons https://uncorneredmarket.com/india-tour-pros-cons/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/india-tour-pros-cons/#comments Mon, 15 Jul 2019 13:57:42 +0000 https://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=32790 Should I travel to India on an organized tour? Or should I travel India independently or solo? We’ve experienced India both ways – the first couple trips on our own and our most recent trip on a small group tour. ... Continue Reading

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Should I travel to India on an organized tour? Or should I travel India independently or solo? We’ve experienced India both ways – the first couple trips on our own and our most recent trip on a small group tour. Recent conversations with our audience, especially solo female travelers, told us a look at the benefits and downsides of small group travel and tours in India was in order.

India is one of our favorite countries. At turns it is complicated yet simple, beautiful and tragic. It overwhelms the senses and is chock full of history, culture and humanity. This is one of the reasons why Dan chose it as his first trip abroad outside North America. It's why we’ve visited four times and why we have plans to return. However, the same features can make India a challenging and overwhelming independent travel destination.

During our most recent visit to India, we traveled to northern India on a tour book-ended by two train trips. Considering our previous travels there – independent, to offbeat locations, plenty of train journeys – a reader asked why we chose a tour and didn't organize train tickets and all else ourselves.

A good question.

Traveling India by Tour
Our group, aboard the toy train from Shimla to Kalka.

In truth, we didn’t need to take a tour in India. However, when we had the opportunity to choose a G Adventures trip (sponsored) as part of our Wanderers partnership we chose this Northern India by Rail tour. Why?

We wanted to experience traveling on a small group tour in India and compare it to our independent travels there. What would we like, what we wouldn’t like, and what we would recommend to others.

Here’s what we found. To us, the pros and cons of traveling in India with a small group tour.

Pros: The benefits of taking a tour in India

India can feel overwhelming and challenging navigate no matter what, but especially if it’s your first visit to the country, and even more so if you are new to international travel. In these circumstances, an organized tour handles the general structure and logistics of the trip and supplies a tour leader to give continual local context and help make sense of the often disorienting commotion so can focus yourself on a deeper understanding and appreciation of the place you’re visiting.

India tour with G Adventures, visiting the Golden Temple in Amritsar
Our group is invited to join in and help make chapatis at the Golden Temple, Amritsar.

An organized tour in India isn’t only for newbie travelers. For example, my aunt who went to school in India and lived there for many years mentioned taking a similar tour as ours so as to enjoy a “hassle-free trip.”

This got us to thinking. What are some of the other benefits of an organized tour in India?

  • Expertise of local tour leaders and guides: When I travel, I’m the — sometimes annoying — one asking the guide endless questions. It’s my job, but I’m also just curious. Access to local expert guides enhances my learning and understanding of a place, of its history and culture. The best local guides also provide their own personal stories which provide color and texture to a travel experience. The most curious traveler wants to know: What is life really like here? My return often features reflection upon anecdotes and personal stories conveyed by tour leaders and guides. These stories add shape to my travel memories. (Note: If you’re new to organized tours, or you already take them and want to make the most of them, read our article on how to make the most of an organized tour.
  • Hassle-free logistics and organization: On average people visit a minimum of four websites – and spend endless hours researching — before booking a trip and its various components. Furthermore, making travel arrangements in country can absorb precious hours as you visit multiple offices — especially in India. When your logistics (train tickets, accommodation) are organized by someone else, it frees you to focus on the experience.
  • Do more with limited time: Travel only by public transport and you’ll experience lag time between buses, trains and other transfers. With a private bus or transfer waiting for you, you can see more in a limited amount of time. This mode of travel also features the built-in opportunity to experience smaller destinations along the way.
  • Itineraries: We enjoy the sort of itinerary where marquee sites form the anchors of an itinerary, while community-based experiences and interactions are skillfully interspersed, again to provide context, depth and texture to an experience or destination. Some of our G Adventures itineraries have featured access to activities and destinations in select local communities, something that would have been difficult and time-consuming for us to have sourced and arranged ourselves.
  • Free time and optional activities: Even though we enjoy traveling with a group, we also like to explore on our own and have free time in our schedule. For example, in Dharamshala while the majority of our group visited a Tibetan Institute, we opted to day-hike Triund Hill. Take advantage of flexibility when it presents itself.
  • Cost: Traveling in a small group tour typically costs less per person than an equivalent private tour as costs are distributed across the group.
  • Medical support: Fortunately, this wasn’t an issue during our tour of northern India. But it’s a wildcard to note. We’ve witnessed passengers falling sick, and we’ve taken note of their comfort in having a trusted, local guide on the visit to the pharmacy or doctor for language interpretation, support and guidance. This is particularly important to note for destinations one might consider gastro-intestinally challenging.

Benefits of an India tour for young female travelers

Traveling in India can be a challenge for young women, especially those who stand out with light hair and fair skin. Although encounters with men are not on the whole physically dangerous, the intensity of attention afforded to young women in India can be unpleasant or even feel invasive. To prepare, here are some travel safety tips for women traveling in India.

Traveling in a group tour helps offers a bit of a shield from some of that attention. It offers the guide and other passengers an opportunity to step in during uncomfortable situations. Having a local tour leader and guide also provides an additional level of protection.

For example, we traveled with four young blonde women on our northern India itinerary. Their appearance literally stopped traffic. Cars pulled over, disgorging local passengers eager to take selfies with them. In circumstances where crowds of people gathered around them, the intensity bumped up a notch. If each woman had been traveling independently — without the buffer of our group and the watchful eye of our local tour leader — the feeling could become more overwhelming, turning to something frightening or even violating.

One woman in our group, Ellie, summed it up well: “It [the attention] is definitely something that young women especially need to take into consideration before visiting [India] for the first time. It can be quite a shock if you're not prepared!”

We've traveled enough in India and spoken to countless young solo female travelers about their experiences in the country. On this account, our case is not overstated. Here's

Benefits for solo travelers

Regardless of whether you are male or female, traveling solo to India for the first time can feel daunting and disorienting. There are also endless stories of scams to which travelers have fallen prey in India. Having a local guide to ask about things and the support of a group of fellow passengers can help mitigate some of those risks and smooth the travel experience.

India G Adventures Tour, Our Group Taking the Train
Our group settles in for a day of train travel, from Shimla to Kalka to Delhi.

For example, one of the people in our group had always traveled with his wife. She didn't have any interest in traveling to India, but he really did. However, he didn’t want to do it entirely on his own. Our tour offered him the itinerary he wanted (he was a train buff), the structure and support of the tour to handle logistics and itinerary, and a group of fellow travelers to hang out with if he wanted to.

Upshot of the story: he — and we — all really had a great time, not only with the experience, but spending time with one another. After this trip, he’s begun to consider taking small group tours to other destinations, especially to those places that don’t interest his wife or include activities she wouldn't enjoy.

Cons: The down side of taking a tour in India

An organized tour may not be the best option for every traveler, or for every situation. Here are some of the potential downsides of taking a group trip in India:

  • Too fast paced: A fixed itinerary can feel as though you’re moving quickly with early mornings and long days packed with lots to see and do. This is true anywhere, but especially in India where sensory overload combined with limited rest can take its toll.
  • Not as much time to explore independently: We find that some experiences, particularly interactions with locals, happen more naturally when we’re on our own, rather than in a group. For example, chatting with market vendors, being invited for tea, random conversations with people on the street, or just getting lost and discovering something unexpected. Solo or independent travelers can appear more approachable to locals than a large group might.
  • Cost: Organized tours can be more expensive than choosing to arrange everything yourself, taking public transport everywhere and traveling without a guide. Those are also the same reasons that many prefer to pay a little extra for a tour.
  • Less street food exploration: Although all the meals on our tour were optional, we opted often to join the group as they were a fun group of people and we enjoyed their company. Because of this, we found that we ate street food or cafeteria food less often than we might have if we were traveling independently. For good reason and hygiene concerns, our tour guide tended to be more conservative with restaurant choices. The upside was that everyone in our group usually ordered different dishes and was open to sharing so we could sample different flavors and curries. And, no one in our group got sick during the trip.
  • Not getting along with other people in group: There’s always a risk that you’ll have “that traveler” in your group and he or she won't click with others. Fortunately, in the 14 G Adventures trips we've taken, we’ve encountered this only once – a traveler whose emotional problems were made worse by alcohol abuse. We steered clear and it was fine. Usually, the tour leader will address these issues early on so it doesn’t impact other passengers and the rest of the trip.

Taking a tour to India
Connecting with vendors and sampling things on the street is sometimes easier to do without a group.

What to look for in an India tour

Sometimes when I mention taking a group tour I get a confused look: “You guys don’t look like tour people.”

We understand. We began as independent travelers. But our work, as well as our partnership with G Adventures, has exposed us to group travel, which we’ve enjoyed for the experiences we've had and the people we've met along the way. For us, this has also built a bit of travel empathy, whereby we appreciate an array of travel styles, preferences and personalities beyond our own.

I should also note that there's a stereotype of organized tours, based on a very particular type of organized tour: dozens of passengers, all the same age and nationality, traveling in an oversized bus, following a guide waving a flag or umbrella, looking disconnected as they’re shepherded from A to B, squeezing in as many tourist sites as possible into one day, punctuated by all-inclusive forgettable meals and unpunctuated by free moments to explore on one’s own.

We acknowledge this style may be preferable for some people. We wouldn’t recommend it though. And this style is vastly different from the one that we have written about above and elsewhere as we've reflected on our own personal experience.

Point is: regarding organized tours, there are many options these days. Know what they are and choose wisely to align with your preferences.

Traveling India by Tour
Even when traveling in a group, it's still a personal journey.

Here’s what we recommend for an organized tour of India:

We offer some general recommendations as you consider your own trip to India, especially one based in part or whole on a tour:

  • Small group: For us, the ideal group size is 16 persons or less.
  • Varied Itineraries: Keep a look out for routes and itineraries that not only include the usual suspects (major sites and destinations), but also smaller and lesser-known destinations not offered by all tour operators. The lesser-known destinations provide texture and often feature the stories you’ll remember most.
  • Inclusion of a community project or social enterprise experience: these community visits often provide travelers with a deeper, more connected experience, while the money from the tour benefits a local organization or community. If you’re going on a G Adventures tour, search for tours that integrate a Planeterra Foundation project experience in the itinerary (hint: it's one of the filters now on their search page).
  • Some free time: Make sure your itinerary offers some free time so you can explore on your own, engage in an optional activity with the group or just unwind and rest. No matter where and how you travel, it's unlikely that you'll want to be on the go all the time.
  • Combination of train and private transport: If you’re traveling in India, choose itineraries which include some train travel. For us, it’s the most rewarding way to travel India.
  • Non-inclusive meals: One of the highlights of traveling in India is the food. We suggest choosing a tour where meals and dishes are your choice, not pre-determined, all-inclusive or buffet oriented.
  • Local tour leaders and guides: It may seem obvious that you ought to seek tours featuring guides from the country in which you're traveling. Yet, we've found that's not always the case.

Recommended Small Group Tours in India

G Adventures India and Rail Tours

Here is the small group tour we took in northern India that had a train focus. Plus, we share other options if you have more time to explore India and want to combine different regions by rail. These G Adventures tours all include a local guide, stays at local accommodation, eating out at local restaurants and many also include a Planeterra Foundation community organization experience.


Disclosure: G Adventures sponsored our Northern India by Rail tour as part of our partnership as Wanderers. This article includes affiliate links — that is, if you book a G Adventures tour by clicking on one of the links above the price stays the same to you and we earn a small commission to support this website and stories like this. Check out all the different G Adventures tours we've taken and recommend.

As always, the thoughts contained herein — the what, the why, and the how — are entirely our own.

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Northern India Beyond the Golden Triangle: A Travel Guide https://uncorneredmarket.com/northern-india-travel-guide/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/northern-india-travel-guide/#comments Tue, 25 Jun 2019 06:00:14 +0000 https://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=32731 When travelers consider northern India, thoughts run to the Golden Triangle, the popular India tourist circuit of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. While we appreciate the appeal of sights like the Taj Mahal, there is much more to experience in northern ... Continue Reading

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When travelers consider northern India, thoughts run to the Golden Triangle, the popular India tourist circuit of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. While we appreciate the appeal of sights like the Taj Mahal, there is much more to experience in northern India — without the crowds, scams and hustle of being on the tourist path.

Northern India Travel Guide, Golden Temple at Dawn
Golden Temple at dawn, Amritsar.

That’s where some of the lesser known places in northern India like Amritsar, Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj, and Shimla come in. These destinations fall outside the popular and traditional India tourist itineraries and feature smaller towns with fewer foreign visitors (we were often the only ones), cooler temperatures, beautiful temples, a diversity of religions, a toy train that features one of the most picturesque train journeys in the country, and opening vistas to the edge of the snow-covered Himalayas.

This Experiential Guide offers 20 ideas and inspiration on what to do and places to visit in northern India outside the Golden Triangle, focusing instead on Amritsar, Dharamshala/McLeod Ganj, and Shimla. There is good reason why these areas of Punjab and Himachal Pradesh have been our travel wish list for over a decade.

The following experiences are highlights from our Northern India by Rail tour with G Adventures, and are presented in chronological order. If you are considering this tour and want to know what to expect, here’s a taste of the itinerary, activities and destinations you'll experience. If you decide to travel northern India independently, use this guide as inspiration to piece together your own one to two-week itinerary. Disclosure: This tour was sponsored and provided to us in conjunction with our partnership with G Adventures as Wanderers.

Northern India (Beyond the Golden Triangle): 20 Things to Do, Places to Visit, and Dishes to Eat

For those of you who love maps — as we do — here is a visual of our 7-9 day route through northern India on our G Adventures tour.

Northern India Travel Itinerary
Our itinerary for 7-9 days in northern India.

1. Catch a ride from Delhi airport with a women only taxi company

Here’s something you don’t see every day: an all-women driver taxi service. Unusual in any destination, but especially so in India. As we exited Delhi airport all the drivers waiting to collect passengers were men, except for our driver, Reena.

Here’s why.

Northern India Travel Guide, Women Taxis in Delhi
Reena carves our way through Delhi during the morning rush hour.

Women with Wheels is a Planeterra Foundation project which partners with the Azad Foundation and the Sakha organization as they provide training and employment to disadvantaged women in Delhi. All G Adventures travelers arriving at Delhi airport have a Women on Wheels pickup included in their tour. This not only provides travelers a safe and comfortable ride to their accommodation in town, but it also means a steady source of income for the women drivers.

Reena, our driver, possessed the requisite nerves of steel and calm required to drive in Delhi, especially during its morning rush hour traffic.

Note: In addition to Delhi, Sakha also operates similar women-only taxi services in Kolkata and Jaipur. You can book your taxi online here.

2. Sit back and enjoy tea on the Delhi to Amritsar Shatabdi Express train

One of the reasons we chose this particular G Adventures tour in northern India: trains. We are train junkies. It’s our favorite way to travel, especially in India where the experience is more than just getting from A to B. It’s about the movement of the train, the flow of landscapes from urban to rural, the people you meet, and the melodic rhythm of life on an Indian train.

Northern India Travel Guide, Train from Delhi to Amritsar
All aboard the Shatabdi Express train from Delhi to Amritsar.

Even tea time on the train is special.

Northern India Travel Guide, Train from Delhi to Amritsar
A proper tea on the train from Delhi to Amritsar.

3. Admire the high kicks, posturing and mustache competition at the Wagah India-Pakistan border ceremony

Although we’ve experienced our share of bizarre land borders as we’ve crossed from one country to the next, we’ve never encountered anything like the Wagah border ceremony between India and Pakistan. The ceremony takes place daily in the late afternoon as the gates between the two countries prepare to close for the evening.

Imagine a stadium that seats 30,000 fans (on the Indian side), a military officer emcee who riles up the audience to cheer as loudly as possible to drown out the Pakistani crowds on the other side, an Indian flag waving parade of young women and girls, and a mosh pit where riled hordes dance to their favorite Bollywood songs.

Northern India Travel, Wagah Border Ceremony Dancing
Mosh pit, Bollywood style, at the Wagah border ceremony.

And this all goes down before the actual ceremony even begins. Bollywood couldn’t script it any better. Here’s a video taste of what you get:

 

Don’t worry though. At the end of all this machismo and power posturing, the sides shake hands, indicating peace holds for yet another day.

Visiting the Wagah border ceremony: Foreigners are separated from Indians as they enter the stadium, then seated in a separate section. It can get very hot waiting for the festivities to begin. Consider choosing a seat in the shade up top before making your way down later. Security is tight. Leave all belongings in your vehicle, except the basics: passport, wallet, phone, and camera. Although small purses are usually allowed, camera bags are not.

4. Enjoy the Golden Temple at night

The Golden Temple in Amritsar by night: stunning. Not only does the physical beauty of this place make it so. The atmosphere — welcoming, peaceful and inclusive — does, too.

Northern India Travel Guide, Golden Temple in Amritsar
Beauty and peace of the Golden Temple at night.

As the preeminent pilgrimage site of Sikhism, the temple complex courses around the clock with visitors. Despite the constant flow of people, a calm, quiet and meditative feeling prevails. All are welcome, respected and even cared for, no matter their circumstances. ⠀

Even though we’d had the Golden Temple in Amritsar on our minds for years, the nuanced sort of wonder that defined our experience exceeded expectations.

Our suggestion: after taking a walk around the temple complex, find a quiet place to sit and simply be present.

5. Admire how a team of volunteers feeds 60-100k people each day at the Golden Temple langar (kitchen)

One of the most remarkable features of the Golden Temple at Amritsar is its langar, a sprawling kitchen serving free hot meals to 60,000-100,000 people each day. Just try to get your head around that. The scale of food service here boggles the mind.⠀

Northern India Travel Guide, Golden Temple Langar (Kitchen)
One of the many volunteers preparing breakfast for tens of thousands of people at the Golden Temple.

Also remarkable is that food preparation and service is accomplished mainly by volunteers, with ingredients and money donated by members of the community. Seva, or “selfless service,” is a key precept of the Sikh religion. The Golden Temple attracts volunteers from all over India, and the world.

Northern India Travel Guide, Golden Temple in Amritsar
A couple of the morning shift volunteers take a break.

⠀⠀
During our morning tour, our local guide took us through the kitchen area to witness volunteers preparing for the breakfast shift. Everyone worked side by side — from fire-stoking to chapati-making to dish washing — focused solely on serving others. The atmosphere, humbling. The rhythm, meditative.

6. Enjoy winding views of the Himalayan foothills in Himachal Pradesh

As you depart the lowland plains of Amritsar and head into the hills of the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh, the journey begins to switchback wind its way up into mid-mountain territory. Temperatures dip a bit, air freshens.

Northern India Travel Guide, Himachal Pradesh Mountain Landscapes
Snow-covered peaks of the Himalayas begin to appear as we enter Himachal Pradesh.

And the snow-covered peaks of the Himalayas and Ladakh begin to reveal themselves in the distance, just as they accompany us on our drive to the towns of Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj.⠀

When you look at a map and consider distances in northern India it’s easy to think, “Oh, those distances aren’t so great. It won’t take long.”

No.

What you’re not taking into consideration: the small 2-lane winding mountain roads. Yes, it can take 5-7 hours to go 140-150 km.

The upside? All the views. Lush terraced fields, little villages, endless hills, and snow-covered mountains peaking in the distance. As a bonus, if you have a driver like ours you also get some Punjabi hits to accompany the Himachal Pradesh landscapes and 10 different horn melodies he uses to blast warnings to others on the road.

7. Turn the prayer wheels – and keep your eye out for the Dalai Lama — at Tsuglagkhang Buddhist Temple at McLeod Ganj

McLeod Ganj, a once-sleepy town just up the hill from Dharamshala, is now the home of the Dalai Lama and the headquarters of the Tibetan government in exile. Since the Dalai Lama fled to India in 1959, it has become home to tens of thousands of Tibetan refugees, lending the town a strong Tibetan cultural feel.

Although the Tsuglagkhang Temple Complex is where the Dalai Lama resides today, don’t expect to just run into him in passing. He’s busy about the world. But you can enjoy a peaceful walk around the temple – and enjoy its impressive collection of murals, statues and prayer wheels.

Northern India Travel Guide, McLeod Ganj Buddhist Temple
Turning the prayer wheels, one by one, at the Buddhist temple in McLeod Ganj.

Turn each mani prayer wheel clock-wise. Or just be present in the moment.

Note: If you want to learn more about Tibetan culture, arts and religion, be sure to check out the Norbulingka Institute near Dharamshala. The rest of our G Adventures group visited and said that the grounds and gardens were incredibly peaceful and pleasant.

8. Hit the hills outside of Dharamshala for a day hike to Triund Hill

We couldn’t resist getting closer to the mountains outside of Dharamshala. So we hiked up to Triund Hill (2,800 meters / 9,200 feet). The view from the top includes sweeping looks of the Dhauladhar Range. This is the reward for a day hike up a fairly well-defined but rocky path from McLeod Ganj through the village of Dharamkot. It's definitely worth the steep climb and the 20km round trip of hiking.

Northern India Travel Guide, Hiking in Himachal Pradesh
A Hindu altar marks the top of Triund Hill.
Northern India Travel Guide, Hiking near Dharamshala
Photo bombed by a mule at the top of Triund Hill.

Note: The hike from McLeod Ganj is around 9km one way, and 7 km from Dharamkot. We began our day further down the hill. That's why our walk turned out to be 20km. We were tired by day's end, but it’s easily accomplished as a day hike.

9. Get your momo fix in McLeod Ganj

I have a bit of a dumpling obsession, no matter the variety or origin. After our descent from Triund Hill, the first thing on my mind were momos, Tibetan dumplings filled with vegetables or meat, served either steamed or fried. They are usually served with a roasted chili hot sauce. Delicious at any time, but especially so after hiking 20km.

Northern India Travel Guide, Momos
Hearty basket of steamed vegetable momos (Tibetan dumplings).

The steamed veggie momos are my favorite. If you’re sharing with a group, you can sample fried and steamed and come to your own conclusion. Although we enjoyed the fried greens at Tibet Kitchen and believe that their momo skins are ideal, we actually enjoyed the flavor and filling of the veg steamed momos at United Restaurant and Café, just down and across the street.

10. Hang with the pilgrims at Rewalsar Lake

Rewalsar Lake near the town of Mandi is perhaps an unlikely stop, but it's one which helps break up the long journey from Dharamshala to Shimla. It's a peaceful and welcoming one, too.

Legend has it that the great Buddhist teacher Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) took flight from Rewalsar to Tibet and spread Mahayana Buddhism there. Today, Rewalsar is a sacred destination for Hindus, Sikhs and Buddhists; temples from each religion ring the water. Pilgrims circle around the lake with Mani prayer wheels in hand and prayers on their lips.

Northern India Travel Guide, Rewalsar Lake
Friendly pilgrims stop for a break when circling Rewalsar Lake.

Given the surprised looks our group received, foreign travelers – as yet, anyhow – typically don’t visit this sleepy pilgrimage town. However, that didn’t stop locals and visiting pilgrims from flashing smiles and engaging with us as they gathered with friends on park benches at the end of the day.

11. Walk The Ridge in Shimla and feel transported to England…and another era

The British chose the once sleepy hill station of forested Shimla as their summer capital (1864 – 1947) so as to escape the heat and crush of Delhi. You can still see the surprisingly well-maintained remnants of this today. Shimla is now a bustling and not-so-little hill town filled with pedestrian-only promenades, churches, and British mock Tudor and colonial architecture.

Northern India Travel Guide, Shimla
India or England? Time travel in Shimla.

With its cooler temperatures and views of the Himalayas, Shimla is a fun place to wander, enjoy the hillside perspective and take in some easy-going shopping. It’s easy to see why this is such a popular destination for both Indian and foreign visitors.

12. Lose yourself in Shimla's Lower Bazaar

Just down the street from what feels like little England, bustling Indian markets burst with spices, color, and tons of activity. Our suggestion: just walk, poke your head into stalls, take a turn or two on the laneways, and enjoy some sensory overload.

Northern India Travel Guide, Shimla Lower Bazaar
The rhythm of Shimla's Lower Bazaar.

The spread of spice stalls across Shimla’s Lower Bazaar features sacks and tins, and ancient wooden racks, drawers and dividers that ought to have a voice so that they might tell us their stories. Colors are earthy and bright, chili peppers of the deepest red, turmeric of an otherworldly yellow. Scents waft among it all. The whole and the ground; the sweet and the pungent; the blended and the masala’d all help make Indian food so delicious and complex.⠀

Northern India Travel Guide, Shimla Spice Market
Endless piles of chilies and spices at the market, Shimla.

Wander, question, show curiosity, and perhaps add something familiar and needed, or unfamiliar and unknown to one’s spice rack back home. For as many times as we’ve been to India, we always discover something new or encounter something unusual. And, we always meet someone interesting along the way.

Northern India Travel Guide, Shimla Bazaar
We sample yet another mysterious root as we explore Shimla's street markets.

13. Explore the grounds and gardens of the Viceregal Lodge (Rashtrapati Niwas)

Not far from central Shimla on Observatory Hill is the grand and impressive Viceregal Lodge, the former residence of the British Viceroyal of India from 1888 to India’s independence in 1947. As you take a guided tour of the interior you also hear the story of how the lodge played an important role in negotiating India’s independence. Black and white photos tell the story of the major players of Indian independence and Partition, its split with Pakistan.

Northern India Travel Guide, Viceregal Lodge in Shimla
Shimla's Viceregal Lodge, now a center of learning and research.

The lodge that once served as a symbol of British colonial power is today the Indian Institute of Advanced Study, considered the top academic and research center in the country for the humanities and social sciences. What were once grand dining halls and ballrooms now serve as libraries and areas of research and academic thought. A rather apt twist of history.

After your tour of the lodge’s interior be sure to take some time to explore the surrounding gardens.

14. Enjoy the breakfast of champions — masala dosa and coffee — at the Indian Coffee House in Shimla

The India Coffee House on Mall Road in Shimla is more than just a cafe or restaurant; it's an institution. It was established in 1957 as part of a program to allow coffee workers to set up, run and manage coffee houses, and to generate additional income. Over 50 years later the oldest cafe in Shimla is still going strong.

To our sense, not much has changed — in a good way.

Northern India Travel Guide, India Coffee House in Shimla
Couldn't resist taking a photo with our waiter at the India Coffee House in Shimla.

A masala dosa and a strong cup of filtered coffee — the real stuff, not instant — is one of our favorite ways to start the day. Although I'm sure all their food is good, we heard from our guide that they are best known for their southern Indian dishes (e.g., dosa, idli, etc.). Visit to the Indian Coffee House not only for the food. It's the atmosphere of the place, including the professional waiters (see the photo above), that really make for a fun and engaging experience. Not to mention, because its run by coffee workers, the coffee is actually quite good.

On a practical note, the Indian Coffee House seems to be the only cafe open in Shimla before 9AM. If you're an early riser or have an early morning train to catch, this is the place to go.

15. Take the ropeway down from Hanuman statue for views of Shimla

If you really want to get above it all in Shimla take a walk up to the giant Hanuman statue at the top of the hill. It’s not a long walk, but it is steep and you need to beware the pesky and aggressive monkeys that want to take your sunglasses, water bottles, and snacks.

Take note of the sign at the bottom which indicates the average amount of time to walk to the top, according to one’s age and relative fitness. Then compare your results!

Northern India Travel Guide, Shimla in the Hills
View over Shimla, taken from the ropeway gondola.

On the return, however, we suggest you take a relaxing ride on the ropeway, or gondola. You get a beautiful view of the town below and of the expanse of hills surrounding Shimla. The clearest days yield views of the snow-covered Himalayas.

16. Pair an Indian craft beer with some pani puri

One thing we were not expecting to find in Shimla: a craft beer brewpub. We enjoyed a pale ale and shared fusion-inspired snacks at Brew Estate. Though it doesn’t fall into the category of “traditional Indian,” it does reflect a segment of modern India. It also makes for a delightful and safe way to order several small plates and share some Indian street food favorites. You can also order a full proper dinner here, too.

If you’ve had your fill of high-octane “strong” Indian beer, then enjoy a flavorful citric pale ale, red ale, or hefeweizen wheat ale in Shimla. Then, order several rounds of pani puri for your group to enjoy.

Northern India Travel Guide, Shimla Food
Pani puri, a texture and flavor delight. Delicious!

Pani puri is common street food snack made of puffed balls filled with potato and topped with tamarind juice, plain yogurt and coriander sauce. Delicious, but often the various liquids, herbs and ingredients can leave a traveler with Delhi belly.

That’s why the pani puri at Brew Estate was perfect. Everyone in our group tried this unique and fun combination of flavors, but in a safe and perfectly hygienic setting. Everyone loved it, so several orders circulated the table.

17. Take the Toy Train from Shimla to Kalka and Count the Tunnels (Hint: 103)

Built in the late 19th century, this narrow gauge railway winds itself through the hills of Himachal Pradesh, often twisting and turning back on itself in feats of navigation and engineering. At almost 100 km, this 5 hour train ride is one of the most scenic, ambling and pleasant in India. Stops in several stations offer ample opportunities for milk tea and snack breaks along the way.

Northern India Travel Guide, Shimla Toy Train
The Shimla – Kalka narrow gauge Toy Train as it approaches one of the many tunnels.

18. Take a city walking tour in Delhi led by former street kids

Although this experience isn’t included as part of the G Adventures Northern India by Rail tour, it is offered as an optional activity. If you have a free day in Delhi before or after your tour begins, we recommend you seek it out. Just ask your G Adventures tour leader (CEO) to help organize it. If you’re not on a G Adventures tour, then you can inquire here.

This tour is like no other typical city walking tour — in a good way. Here’s why.

Northern India Travel Guide, Delhi City Street Kids Tour
Seeing a different side of Delhi on a walking tour given by former street kids.

Anny, pictured above, guides us through a narrow alley near Delhi railway station. Her personal story is one of having been orphaned at five years old. For the last ten years she has lived in a shelter run by Salaam Balaak Trust, a local organization providing support, education and training to children who once lived their lives day and night on the street.

Besides sharing her knowledge of Delhi, Anny gave us some more background on the street children in India – the various ways many of them end up on the street, their survival tactics, and the ways they spend the money they make and steal. Their dreams, too.

This Planeterra Foundation project together with Salaam Baalak Trust offers youth the opportunity for English language courses and training in guiding and tourism. The goal: to build new confidence and give the children practical skills and experience in preparation for the time they must leave the shelters (at 18 years old) and they begin seeking employment. Social impact travel in action.

19. Savor the charcoal dal makhani at Kitchen with a Cause and support disadvantaged youth

We consider ourselves pretty savvy and knowledgeable when it comes to Indian food, but we'd never had dal makhani served to us stewed with a smoldering piece of charcoal.

Smoke-infused creamy lentils equals amazing.

Northern India Travel Guide, Delhi Social Enterprise Restaurant
Carefully removing the charcoal from our dal makhani. Such good flavor.

This social enterprise restaurant provides hospitality and restaurant training to former street kids and disadvantaged youth. Completion of a minimum 6-month training period also helps them find full-time employment in restaurants or hotels afterwards. To eat well and support disadvantaged youth: satisfying.

Address: 15A/63, Ajmal Khan Rd, Block 15A, WEA, Karol Bagh, New Delhi. It's about a 5-10 minute walk from the Karol Bagh metro station.

20. Deck yourself out in Indian clothes and colors at Fabindia

On our first trip to India together over ten years ago I discovered Fabindia, an Indian clothing shop that uses high quality natural cottons and materials and works with rural communities so as to provide local opportunities for employment. The colors, designs, and cuts for both traditional Indian clothing (e.g., kurtas, tunics, dupattas, saris) — as well as more western-style items — are beautiful, unusual and high quality.

Northern India Travel Guide, Shopping in Delhi
My stash from Fabindia…and I usually hate shopping.

In other words, it’s the perfect place to get yourself outfitted with some traditional Indian clothes for your travels in India. This not only helps you fit in and shows respectful dress, but the clothes are loose and comfortable for the local climate. For women I recommend picking up a couple of tunics and kurtas that you can wear either with jeans, light walking trousers or as a set with a pair of their colorful matching trousers. All the choices, sizes and colors are a bit overwhelming at first, so don’t be afraid to ask for help from the local staff. Or from your husband.

There are several Fabindia locations in Delhi. I had especially good luck at Connaught Place.


Disclosure: G Adventures sponsored our Northern India by Rail tour. This trip is in conjunction with our partnership with G Adventures as Wanderers. This article includes affiliate links — that is, if you book a G Adventures tour by clicking on one of the links above the price stays the same to you and we earn a small commission to support this website and stories like this. Check out all the different G Adventures tours we've taken and recommend.

As always, the thoughts contained herein — the what, the why, and the how — are entirely our own.

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Insider’s Prague: 5 Tourist Traps to Avoid and Things to Do Instead https://uncorneredmarket.com/prague-tourist-traps-sites-restaurants/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/prague-tourist-traps-sites-restaurants/#comments Tue, 04 Jun 2019 06:14:00 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=5579 While we lived in Prague for over five years, we were simultaneously awed by its beauty and frustrated by the rapacious tourism development that had swamped its old town. More recently, I've heard from travelers disappointed by their visits to ... Continue Reading

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While we lived in Prague for over five years, we were simultaneously awed by its beauty and frustrated by the rapacious tourism development that had swamped its old town. More recently, I've heard from travelers disappointed by their visits to Prague because of the city's crowds and tourist schlock.

Yes, there's a fair heap of that. But, there are also ways to avoid it and there is much to see and experience in Prague without crowds. That's what this insider's guide is all about with tourist traps to avoid, best things to do, favorite Czech beers and pubs, neighborhoods to stay in, and where to eat in Prague.

Many moons ago, during our first month living in Prague, I remember exiting Charles University after a Czech language class and looking up at a night-lit Prague Castle and thinking, “My God, do I actually live here?

It didn't seem real.

Prague: A Beginner's Guide

Even after five years of living in Prague, I could still turn a corner, catch the right light and get that feeling. Prague is a Bucket List and “Top 10 Romantic Cities” favorite — for good reason. But frankly, there's also a lot of touristy crap that can leave a casual visitor tourist-worn.

During my last visit to Prague, I played tourist for a day and forced myself to walk through through its main tourist artery — from the Prague Castle, over the Charles Bridge, down Karlova Street, through Old Town, up to the top of Wenceslas Square. Maybe it had improved since we lived there?

Nope.

But all is not lost. Here are some ideas on how to minimize the tourist schlock, what to do to replace it with, local neighborhoods to explore, Czech beers to try and where to eat in Prague at the end of the day.

Plus, we share recommendations on which Prague neighborhoods to stay in and some tours and boat rides that might help you explore the city even more. This all makes for a more enjoyable visit to Prague that also allows you to avoid some of the overtourism challenges that the city has faced and travel more sustainably by supporting local businesses.

Note: This post was originally published in May 2011 and was updated on June 4, 2019.

What to Avoid in Prague: Tourist Schlock

1. Karlova Street

In tourist hell, right next door to San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf and Bangkok's Khao San Road is Prague's souvenir-engorged Karlova Street. If you only retain one piece of information from this post, it should be this: avoid this street like the plague.

Don't ask why, don't be tempted. Just avoid it. Your visit will be all the better for it.

Prague, What to Avoid: Karlova Street
Karlova Street in Prague

Alternative: “But how am I going to get from Charles Bridge to Old Town Square?” you might ask. Easy.

When you come off the Charles Bridge (on the opposite side of the river from Prague Castle), cut through the Klementinum (look for the doorway across the street to the left of Karlova street) and enjoy a peaceful stroll through a 14th century courtyard.

2. Concerts — or anything for that matter – sold by people in period costumes

If classical music's greatest hits served up in machine-gun style is your thing, by all means head right for the guys in period outfits. If, however, you have a taste for a full symphony and the real, high-quality, accessible classical music Prague is known for, go elsewhere.

Prague Tourist Concert Tickets
Not all music concerts are created equal.

Alternative: See #2 below for where to find high quality shows and buy concert tickets.

3. Wenceslas Square at Night

Where protesters once stood up to Soviet tanks during Prague Spring in 1968, hawkers now stand up for your opportunity to patronize their strip clubs. After dark, Wenceslas Square becomes a central place for strip club touts, prostitutes, their pimps and all manner of the shady and unpleasant. Although it's not unsafe per se, it's best avoided.

Prague Wenceslas Square, Strip Clubs
Strip Clubs Near Wenceslas Square in Prague

Alternative: After dark, walk any of the streets parallel to Wenceslas Square or take the metro to avoid the area altogether.

4. Astronomical Clock Show on the Hour

I know I'm going to get crap for this one. Don't get me wrong, the medieval astronomical clock on the side of Old Town City Hall is beautiful and worth a look.

But really, don’t worry about fighting with the tourist hordes that gather on the hour to see the “show.” The hourly spectacle features some figures moving around, a rooster call (my personal favorite) and a dancing skeleton (Dan's personal favorite). However, it’s really not worth the elbowing and unpleasant crowds you have to deal with to watch it.

Prague Astronomical Clock
Beautiful to admire, also during the hour.

Alternative: Have the clock to yourself to admire at any time outside the top-of-the-hour. If you find yourself tiring of the crowds on Old Town Square, pop up to the rooftop terrace at U Prince hotel, order a cocktail, and enjoy the view from above. It's particularly nice at sunset.

5. Prague's Scams and Overcharging at Tourist Restaurants

Unfortunately, some touristy restaurants and taxis still hold a narrowly opportunistic view of tourism and tourists (i.e., they scam anyone who looks like fresh meat).

What to do: Don't let these places get away with it: be vigilant, mind your bill, count your change, and question or complain if you are being cheated. If you don't, you'll be doing yourself — and all other tourists who follow in your footsteps — a disservice.

If your restaurant bill arrives with extra service charges or “taxes” that are not specifically called out on the menu, refuse to pay them.

If you need a taxi, use a local taxi app or have the hotel or restaurant call a trusted taxi company in advance. I would never pick up a taxi outside the front door of the train station or hotel. If you pick up a taxi on the street, use a company like AAA or ProfiTaxi. Finally, if you've been grossly overcharged, pay what you believe is fair and walk away. We've done it.

Non-Touristy Things to Do in Prague: The Good Stuff

With the unpleasant stuff out of the way, let's focus on what to do and visit besides what we call the “Prague Tourist Triad” (Prague Castle, Charles Bridge, Old Town Square). The aim: to give you a feel for a living city whose history goes long beyond just a few pretty buildings. And, to help you avoid some of the tourist crowds in Prague.

You might be thinking as you read, “But that's outside the city center.”

In some cases, our recommendations are outside of the Old Town City center, but they are not so far. Within a few minutes, you are only a tram, metro or a few footsteps away.

1) Vyšehrad: An Alternative Castle

Just down the Vlatava River from Prague Castle is the lesser-known 10th century castle of Vyšehrad. In addition to offering great views of the Vltava River and the city, Vyšehrad features grassy grounds stocked full of locals having picnics with family and friends.

Prague Vysehrad Castle on Vltava River
View of Vyšehrad Castle from the Vltava River

The cemetery at Vyšehrad is also home to many of Czech greats of art and music, including Alphonse Mucha and Antonín Dvořák. The Peter and Paul church is also worth a look – neo-gothic on the outside, but Mucha-inspired art nouveau murals on the inside.

2. Classical Music Concerts and Operas

Prague's music scene is one of the things that kept us there so long. Even if you're not a huge classical music aficionado, it's still worth trying to see a concert just to experience the venue.

Go directly to ticket offices or a venue's box office for real performances. Basically, if the concert is associated with a national ensemble, you’re more likely to see a high quality concert at a lower price.

If your visit coincides with Prague Spring, try to book tickets in advance or, for last minute tickets, visit the Rudolfinum box office. Prague Spring often features top performers, conductors and orchestras from around the world.

I cannot begin to count the $1000s of dollars we would have spent on all the performances we took in had we seen the performers on their home turf. Prices continue to go up, but are still reasonable compared with Western Europe and the United States.

Suggested concert venues: Rudolfinum (our favorite venue and home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra), National Theatre, State Opera. These concert halls not only have wonderful acoustics, but they also are just beautiful concert halls.

In addition, Prague's art and museum scene is constantly changing and evolving. Many of the galleries and events are located in interesting neighborhoods and buildings. You can check out the list of upcoming events, festivals and exhibitions here.

To provide you with more flexibility and discounts if you want to visit several museums at once, consider getting the Prague City Card (2-4 days). It also includes a free river boat cruise, which is a nice way to get an overview of the city on both sides of the Vlatava River.

3. Exploring Prague's Neighborhoods

Although Prague’s Old Town (Staré Město) and Lesser Town (Malá Strana) often steal the Prague tourist show (and for good reason) with their medieval architecture, it's worth it to spend time poking around some of the surrounding neighborhoods. The Art Nouveau architectural stock in Prague's residential neighborhoods is impressive.

Walk, look up and soak it up. Architectural period melange, details, mosaics, statues, paintings, are all standard fare. Not to mention, this is the way you'll really begin to understand what modern-day living in Prague is all about.

Prague Neighborhoods, Vinohrady
Getting out into Prague's neighborhoods.

Suggested neighborhoods to explore and to stay in: Vinohrady, Vršovice (our old neighborhood), Žižkov, and Holesovice.

4. Prague Beer gardens

When the weather is warm (or at least un-cold and bearable), Prague’s beer gardens are the place to while away an afternoon, evening, or possibly even both. Beer gardens are casual affairs with long, simple picnic tables, a food stand or two serving greasy sausages, and — most importantly — an endless supply of freshly pulled Czech beer.

Relax with locals of all ages, from the stodgy business guy in a suit to grandpa with his dog to the young punk kids.

Prague Beer Garden
Riegrovy Sady Beer Garden in Vinohrady

Recommended Prague beer gardens:

Letna Park Beer Garden(Prague 7) with views of the city and Vltava River or Riegrovy Sady (Prague 2) for a more grungy, local flavor.

5. Glass of Wine at Grebovka Vineyard

There's actually a small vineyard within Prague’s city limits. And, there just happens to be a little café (called Altan) with a great gazebo sitting right above it.

These are the makings of a perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine and a cheese plate. For quality, we actually suggest trying the Austrian wine over the local Grebovka wine.

Prague Vineyard
Glass of Wine at Grebovka Vineyard in Prague

Address: Grebovka park is in Prague 10. Closest tram stop is Krymska on 22, 16, or 4 tram lines. Finding your way here through the windy residential streets is part of the fun; this is not a touristy area at all. Go past the Grobovka Pavillion to get to Altan Cafe.

Recommended Prague Tours and Activities

Our partner, Get Your Guide, offers many Prague tours and attractions. They have the lowest prices, guaranteed, for these tours with no booking fees or hidden charges. In addition, they work with their partners to ensure Covid-19 safety features and you can usually cancel up to 24 hours before in case your schedule changes.

For inspiration, consider some of the following Prague city tours to experience the city from different angles and to go a little deeper:

  • Prague Sightseeing Dinner Cruise on Open-Top Glass Boat (3 hours): As mentioned before, Prague is pretty stunning at night. Everything is lit up, and it is especially magical from the perspective of the water. This evening cruise will take you along the Vltava River past many of the city's historical sites like the Prague Castle, Charles Bridge and Old Town. And, you get to enjoy dinner and a drink as you take in the city by night.
  • Prague Walking Tour (3 hours): One of the best ways to learn about a city is through a walking tour, and this one provides a great overview and takes you through what we described as the Prague Triad above: Old Town Square, Charles Bridge and Prague Castle.
  • Prague Walking, Bus and Boat Tour (4 hours): If a long walking tour sounds a bit daunting and you you want to mix things up a bit, consider this walking, bus and boat tour of Prague. It will take you through many of the Prague Triad sites, but you'll have a chance to also view some of them, like the Charles Bridge and Castle, from the water on a 1-hour boat trip. This tour also includes a guided walk through Josefov, the Jewish Quarter.
  • Prague Historical River Cruise (45-Minutes): If you want a quick (and very affordable) view of Prague's historical sites from the river, this boat tour is a good option. And, it includes a drink so you can take in the views with a cold Czech beer or local wine in hand.

You can see all their Prague tours here and read customer reviews to select the type of tour that's best fits your interests, budget and schedule.

Where to Stay in Prague

There is certainly no shortage of accommodation options in Prague, whether a hotel or your own apartment rental. So it can sometimes be a bit overwhelming to choose where to stay based on your interests and budget.

Although booking accommodation in Prague's Old Towns — Staroměstská or Malá Strana — will put you in the middle of the city's main sites, we actually prefer staying in one of the nearby neighborhoods. They provide a more local feel with more non-touristy pubs, cafes, restaurants and shops.

Here are a few recommended accommodation options in some of our favorite Prague neighborhoods. Click on the neighborhood name to see a selection of all accommodation in that area. Plus, we've added both hotel and apartment options, depending upon your preference.

  • Vinohrady Hotels (Prague 2): A beautiful neighborhood filled with colorful 19th and turn of the 20th century architecture. Easy to spend hours wandering its back streets, lots of local cafes and restaurants.
    • Anna Hotel: This small, reasonably priced hotel, is located on a quiet neighborhood street near Namesti Miru. It's an easy 15-minute walk to the Old Town Square or enjoy getting lost in the colorful Vinohrady streets.
    • Apartment on Slavikova Street: A good option on a quiet Vinohrady Street if you prefer to have your own apartment with your own kitchen and space to spread out.
  • VršoviceHotels (Prague 10): We're biased as this was our old neighborhood that we loved. Not quite as polished as Vinohrady up the hill, but Vršovice has a fun local feel to it with lots of turn-of-the-century architecture and streets to wander.
    • Czech Inn: This design hostel meets B&B is in a beautiful corner 19th century building. It is located near where we used to live in Prague, just down the hill from more touristy parts of Vinohrady and near the Grebovka vineyards mentioned above. There are also double and twin rooms available, in addition to dorms for the more budget-minded.
  • Holešovice Hotels (Prague 7): Another neighborhood with beautiful turn-of-the-century architecture and residential streets with some big parks providing lots of green space and quiet.
    • Art Hotel Prague: Located in a quiet area not far from Letna and Stromovka parks, but Prague's historical center is about a 20 minute walk (and even shorter by tram).
    • Residence Nad Vltavou: If you're looking to stay in your own apartment, this option is in a modern building not far from the river in residential Holešovice.
  • Žižkov Hotels (Prague 3): Traditionally a working class neighborhood, Žižkov today is known for its edgy, artistic and alternative side. It has some great street art, hilly streets, lots of local bars and art venues.
    • Carlton Hotel: Located in a good location not far from the Žižkov TV Tower with artist David Černý’s “Tower Babies” and close to lots of residential streets for walking and getting lost. Not far from the main train station and just a few tram stops to the center of town.
    • Žižkov Studio Apartment: A good newly renovated studio apartment option in the residential streets of Žižkov with a small kitchen, living room and loft sleeping area.
  • Dejvice Hotels (Prague 6): This neighborhood is located above the castle and near several big parks. It's well connected for the airport.
    • Hotel Meda of Muesum Kampa: Located in a residential area near the main Dejvice circle. We had a friend who lived in this area and she really enjoyed it for its quiet, but also close proximity to the historical center and public transport.
    • City Castle Aparthotel: If you want your own apartment, this is a good location not far from the castle and very close to the metro and public transport. Lots of green space around as well, so good for active walkers.
  • Karlín Hotels (Prague 8): In the last years Karlín has become rather hip and we know a few people who have moved to this neighborhood. It's a short walk to the historical center and close to the bus station and other transport hubs.
    • Botanique Hotel: A modern hotel with big rooms located in the Florenc area of Karlín, walking distance from old town and close to public transport.
    • Seven Wishes Boutique Residence: If you want your own apartment with modern fixings this is a good option on a quiet residential street about a 10-minute walk away from the old town.

Where to Eat in Prague: Czech Food and Recommended Pubs

There is definitely no shortage of hospodas (pubs) serving Czech fare throughout the city with varying levels of quality and grease content.

If you want a Czech restaurant or pub with a little better meat quality and less grease, give one of the following places a try. In addition to good Czech food, they usually serve tank beer (often, unpasteurized), making the Czech beer drinking experience all the more enjoyable.

Useful websites for reviews of new Prague restaurants: Czech Please, Spotted by Locals Prague, Taste of Prague's food blog.

Prague Czech Food
Hearty Czech food. Perfect with a freshly poured pilsner beer.

Lokál

One of the newer additions to the Ambiante Restaurant empire. This place serves up quality and hearty Czech food at reasonable prices. Be sure to check out their constantly changing daily menu. In addition, they have tank beer, meaning that it will be harder to get fresher beer in town. So good. Address: Dlouhá 33, Prague 1.

Bredovsky Dvur

Just a block away from popular Wenceslas Square, but with a different feel from the high-traffic tourist areas. Try to go during lunch as there are inexpensive lunch meonus and you’ll be enjoying your meal with locals on their lunch break from nearby office buildings. Address: Politických vězňů 13 (parallel street to Wenceslas Square), Prague 1

Na Verandach

This restaurant is right at the Staropramen brewery, so you know the beer is fresh. Hearty food, too. Address: Nadrazni 84, Prague 5 (Smichov)

Olympia

Nice Czech pub serving both Czech and continental specialties. The changing daily lunch menu (11:00-3:00) offers hearty traditional Czech fare at reasonably prices. Address: Vítězná 7, Praha 1 (Ujezd)

Favorite Czech Beers and Prague Bars

If you are a beer drinker then you will be in heaven in Prague. Czech beer is that good. Even the big national brands like Pilsner Urquell, Budějovický Budvar and Gambrinus are really good, especially when you can find them pulled fresh from a tank. However, there are also lots of smaller label beers that are worth seeking out like Bernard, Svijany, and Krušovice.

And, every region of the Czech Republic seems to have its own small breweries and specialties. These micro-brews are becoming easier to find in Prague. Not to mention, the craft beer scene has exploded in the last few years so it's worth experimenting.

Below are some of our favorite Prague bars with a wide variety of Czech beers and craft brews on tap. Some of the places below also serve snacks and food, but beer is the main show.

To learn more about Czech beer, book a Prague beer tour that includes visits to local puts, beer tasting, information about local beer culture and a hearty Czech dinner.

Czech Beer in Prague
Light and dark Bernard beer, one of our favorites.

Prague Beer Museum

It's not really not a museum, but it does serve close to 30 different beers on tap from small to medium breweries across Czech Republic. This is the place to learn about Czech beer the old fashion way — by drinking it. The owner is meticulous about buying only small kegs, keeping the keg lines clean and changing the beer menu every three months. Just be careful and pace yourself — mixing heavy beers can have a devastating effect the next day.

Address: The original Prague Beer Museum on Dlouha street is now closed. But, the Prague Beer Museum pub has opened up at Náměstí Míru (Americká 341/43, Prague 2) that is bigger and has a full menu. In addition, there's a second location at Smetanovo Nabrezi 22 in Prague 1 (Staré Město). So you can have your fill of hearty Czech food to go with all those great beers.

Pivovarsky Klub

In addition to a good selection of beers on tap, this place offers a minimum of 240 beers (Czech and international) in bottles on the menu. Ask the waiter for advice if you get paralyzed on what to order. This place also has good and reasonably priced Czech food, too. Address: Krizikova 17, Praha 8 – Karlin

Kavárna Mlýnská

This isn't so much a pub as it is a mill that has been turned into a café near Kampa Park. It's quite close to the touristy areas, but is a local place that serves wonderful unfiltered Bernard beer. Address: Všehrdova 449, Prague 1

Zly Casy

One of the recent additions to the Czech craft brewpub scene with an impressive list of craft beers on tap. A bit outside the center in Prague 4, but worth the effort. Address: Čestmírova 5, Prague 4

Practical Prague Travel Tips

1. What to Take With You

If you forget anything at home, you can probably find a replacement for it in Prague. Shopping possibilities are endless. For those coming from North America, be sure that your electronics can take 110-220 volts so that you don't blow out your gear.

Much of Prague is covered in cobblestones and stone sidewalks, so beware of high or thin heels that can get easily stuck between the stones. You'll be doing lots of walking so invest in comfortable shoes.

2. How to Get Around Prague

Public transportation in Prague is truly wonderful. If you're going to be in Prague for several days consider buying the 3-day pass for unlimited travel for 310 CZK. Otherwise, you can purchase individual tickets for either 32 CZK (90 min) or 24 CZK (30 min). Be sure to validate your ticket before starting your journey. You can plan your journey by public transport here.

If you do need a taxi, be wary of picking one up off the street, especially near train stations or other highly touristy areas. Use a taxi app or have the hotel or restaurant call one in advance for you. We recommend AAA Taxi or ProfiTaxi.

Consider booking a Prague airport shuttle so that you have someone waiting for you when you arrive and don't need to deal with any taxi games.

3. Money and Tipping

ATM machines are everywhere in Prague and almost all of them take international bank cards. We recommend using these to take out local money instead of using currency exchange places.

If you must exchange money, avoid using the currency exchange places along Wenceslas Square or Old Town as they are known to charge high commission fees or exchange rates. Some have multiple exchange rates depending upon how much you want to exchange. If you do need to use one, ask in advance how much in Czech crowns you would receive for your dollars or Euros. Don't be afraid to walk away if the rates are atrocious.

Credit cards are accepted in most restaurants and shops. Euros are also often accepted in many stores these days as well.

Tipping is usually around 10%, rounded up to the next whole figure. When in touristy restaurants be sure to check your bill for strange service charges and count your change carefully.

4. Safety and Security

For the most part Prague is a safe city, but like everywhere in the world it's important to stay aware of your surroundings and your stuff, especially your passport and wallet.

Be careful when walking around at night in dark streets and areas around Wenceslas Square. When in bars, cafes or restaurants keep an eye on your bags and stuff, especially in more touristy or popular areas. Stay alert when on public transport in touristy areas as groups of pickpockets have been known to work together on trams or metro cars.


Our Prague Recommendations in Podcast Form

If you're still curious about what else we recommend to see, do and eat in Prague, listen to this podcast interview on Prague we did with Chris Christensen of Amateur Traveler.

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