East Asia Travel Articles and Photos Travel That Cares for Our Planet and Its People Fri, 26 Apr 2024 18:51:54 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://uncorneredmarket.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/cropped-UncorneredMarket_Favicon-32x32.png East Asia Travel Articles and Photos 32 32 Japanese Food: From Tempura to Takoyaki https://uncorneredmarket.com/japan-food/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/japan-food/#comments Mon, 24 Sep 2012 10:30:35 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=11830 Last Updated on April 26, 2024 by Audrey Scott Japanese food, where the dining experience is not only about the actual food consumed, but also the presentation, the design, the sheer beauty of what you're eating. From the traditional to ... Continue Reading

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Last Updated on April 26, 2024 by Audrey Scott

Japanese food, where the dining experience is not only about the actual food consumed, but also the presentation, the design, the sheer beauty of what you're eating. From the traditional to the modern, from the quick to the drawn-out, and from the haute to the street — with a few unusual (and necessary) ideas for limited budgets to help your yen go a bit further — this is our take on Japanese food.

Japan Food, Traditional Breakfast
Starting the day right with a traditional Japanese breakfast.

Japan, where clean eating meets culinary artistry. Where raw fish and pickled vegetables sit astride seaweed strands and tempura sculptures. The place where you can eat blowfish sashimi, octopus balls and cow offal one evening, then follow it all up the next day with a 15-course meal that might qualify as one of the truly greatest eating experiences of your life. Japanese cuisine, where the food canvas employs color, where form truly follows function.

Our Japanese Food Guide allows you to learn more about the tradition and ritual behind Japanese cuisine, while also providing recommendations for Japanese dishes, sushi experiences, street food and other traditional meals so you can eat your way through Japan.

Japanese Food Components: Ritual, Rules and Tradition

In traditional Japanese cuisine, as in Japanese life, there are rules. Food rules. Meals are divided into bowls and dishes, which are then further subdivided, all in an effort to separate flavors so that they might not touch each other.

This is precision on a plate.

In Japan, aesthetic is critical, from the many porcelain plates and bowls from which you might take one meal, to the landscape of the tray upon which it is all served. There's logic, there's purpose in every facet of the dining experience, in each item in the meal. By design for design. Contrast this with other East Asian cuisines where large pots are shared from the middle of the table.

Japanese food is careful, that is, full of care. (We're certain we horrified our share of hosts by sharing with each other tastes from our respective meals.)

Rice

As in other Asian cuisine, rice is the guiding force, a requisite. In fact, the Japanese word for rice, gohan, is also the word for meal. In other words, you can’t have one without the other. Or perhaps in Japan, one is the other.

Pickled vegetables

The Japanese seem to be able to pickle just about anything and everything that grows. And they make it all taste good. Japanese picked vegetables (tsukemono) are to be eaten on their own or in condiment fashion. Beware: portion sizes are usually inversely related to the strength of the pickle.

Their artistic arc begins with their shapes and colors accenting serving plates and bowls and ends curled astride one of your courses in complement. Perhaps best of all — and we are running on intuition here — pickled vegetables serve a function to the body in better absorbing or processing the food they are served with, balancing all the protein and rice, cleansing the palate between bites.

Japanese Food, Pickled Vegetables
Japanese pickled vegetables. Small, but they pack a punch.

Soup

Often a miso soup, but you may also be served another lighter broth or clear soup.

Meat/Fish

Japan is an island, so it’s not surprising that fish is abundant and the go-to source of protein. Raw is the chosen method of preparation, but in multi-course meals you'll find an occasional piece of steamed fish topped with a light sauce.

However, a perfectly marbled beef such as Kobe beef (or the new king, Hida beef) will be served beautifully raw with the expectation that you'll cook it to taste on your own individual tabletop hibachi grill.

Take a look at this traditional meal at a restaurant in Takayama specializing in Hida beef. Can you find all the components?

Japan Food, Traditional Meal of Hida Beef
How many components of a Japanese meal can you find?

Japanese Breakfast

You’ll find the same deliberate practice in a traditional Japanese breakfast as well. Your tray will contain many small plates, each with a different flavor and purpose. They all come together to provide a substantial – and protein rich – start to the day.

Japanese Food, Traditional Breakfast
A Japanese breakfast landscape.


Where to find a Japanese breakfast: The best place to try a traditional Japanese breakfast is to stay in a ryokan (Japanese inn). Our two favorite ryokans for breakfast: Oyado Iguchi in Takayama and Tagaoogi in Kawaguchiko near Mount Fuji. Our favorite breakfast treat in all of Japan: hōba miso, grilled miso paste served atop fish on a dried magnolia leaf.

Bowing to the Alter of Raw Fish: Sushi and Sashimi

To get to the heart of raw fish, sushi and sashimi heaven, be sure to make a trip to Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo.

Japan Food, Sushi near Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo
Smiles and sashimi for breakfast at Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo.


Many of you are probably familiar with the different styles of sushi – nigiri (slice of raw fish on top of rice), maki (rolls) and sashimi (slices of raw fish, no rice). We also became fans of sashimi don – a bowl of sushi rice covered in slabs of freshly cut sashimi.

Favoriate Sashimi Dons

After learning how Tokyo manages tons of fresh seafood each day, grab a sushi or sashimi don breakfast of champions at one of the tiny sushi restaurants in the market.

Japan Food, Tuna Sashimi Don
Tuna sashimi on top of a bowl of rice (don).


Our favorite sashimi dons: We did not have time to wait in line for three hours at Sushi Dai (Daisha) but we did enjoy a great sashimi don at a small place a few doors down called BenTomi Sushi in Building #6.

Japan Food, Mixed Sashimi Don
Mixed sashimi don, breakfast of choice in Tokyo.

Conveyor Belt Sushi

Sushi purists may snub their nose at conveyor belt sushi or sushi trains, restaurants with moving belts of sushi plates where you serve yourself and pay at the end based on your pile of empty plates. However, we found that in Japan the quality of fish in these establishments could be exceptional, especially when you consider the price.

Japan Food, Conveyor Belt Sushi
Sushi go-round.


Instead of being held prisoner by what was goes around the conveyor belt, you also have a choice of ordering sushi directly from the chef for the same price. Once we figured out this trick by watching locals in their routine, we rarely picked anything off the conveyor belt and ate exclusively from custom orders.

Often, we would be stuffed to the gills with sushi goodness for around $25-$30 for the two of us. In Japan terms, that's considered a steal. And a win.

Favorite Conveyor Belt Sushi: Tototoriton Sushi Go-Round near Shinjuku station (south exit), Tokyo. Not only were most plates 130 Yen (under $2), but the custom order menu was 40+ options deep with sushi and sashimi options.

Blowfish Sashimi

Blowfish (fugu) is delicious, but it’s one of those delicacies that can kill you if it's not properly prepared. Do your research to find a trusted fugu den (i.e., a restaurant that focuses only on fugu). We opted for a sashimi plate and found the fugu to be subtle flavor, slightly sweet, a tad numbing, with the consistency of very tender squid.

Japanese Food, Blowfish Sashimi
Thinly sliced tender fugu sashimi


For even more fugu fun, be sure to get a glass of fugu sake – hot sake with fugu fins set on fire and infused into the brew. Fugu sake: intense, tasty, and also very fun to say ten times fast.

Where to find fugu sashimi: Osaka, they'll even let you hold the fugu afterwards. Just beware that the fish might begin to blow up in your hands.

Kaiseki Dinner: Traditional Japanese Cuisine at its Best

We often sing the praises of cheap eating as we travel, but we are making an exception here for a traditional kaiseki meal. If you plan to splurge somewhere in Japan, consider doing it for this. Our kaiseki meal at a ryokan near Mount Fuji was one of the most memorable and unique meals of our lives.

Kaiseki is a multi-course (6-15 courses) traditional dinner, served in the manner of samurai (we're not kidding). But it is more than just a meal, it’s an entire cultural experience. Each course is tiny, but delicately prepared and served in bowls and dishes that are well-suited to the food. And no two dishes will be the same; everything has a purpose. The presentation and service is an unforgettable experience, sheer joy.

Japanese Food, Kaiseki Dinner
The start of our kaiseki dinner, the first of many dishes.


The courses of a kaiseki meal will change based on the seasons and what is fresh, but they'll often represent all the different styles of cooking – raw, boiled, grilled, and steamed. The experience will pull influence from the mountains to the sea. There's a pace that ensures that the meal moves along, but it's slow enough as to enable the full appreciation of presentation, design, and flavor.

Recommended Kaiseki Dinner: Tagaoogi Ryokan at Kawaguchiko near Mount Fuji. Just amazing, from the quality of the food to the presentation and service.

Japanese Cheap Eats and Street Food

It is true that the words cheap and Japan don’t often go together, but there are thankfully a few tasty, healthy Japanese options that are easier on the wallet.

Okonomiyaki

Japanese Food, Hiroshimia Okonomiyaki
Hiroshima okonomiyaki in the making.


A friend living in Japan told us the style of okonomiyaki is a reflection of the city where it is served. Some places are more orderly with straight streets, others are messy with curved roads. You can find this personality in the local okonomiyaki.

Okonomiyaki, roughly, is a savory pancake stuffed with sliced vegetables, seafood and other bits. Although its roots go back centuries, its popularity dates from the days of U.S. troops and post-WWII deliveries to Japan of wheat flour (used in the pancake batter). Usually, okonomiyaki is cooked on a big griddle or at your table in a cook-your-own style. Top with hanakatsuo — dried, fermented, and outrageously thin bacony looking smoked bonito (skipjack tuna) flakes that curl like mad when you place them atop hot food.

Trust us, it tastes much better than the description makes it sound. It's usually an inexpensive meal as well, especially if two people can share one portion.

Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki:

Japanese Food, Okonomiyaki Hiroshima Style
Hiroshima Style Okonomiyaki


This was the first okonomiyki we enjoyed, and it was massive. Noodles (choice of soba or udon), grated vegetables and seafood are served on top of a thin fried pancake. Usually it is topped with a sweet Worcestershire style sauce and topped with mayonnaise.

Where to get Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki: Just near the Hiroshima train station is the main street Johoku Dori. If you walk past the Post Office you'll find this place on the right side in a brick building. All locals, lots of fun.

Osaka-style Okonomiyaki:

Japan Food, Okonomiyaki Osaka Style
Okonomiyaki, Osaka Style


In contrast to Hiroshima’s signature okonomiyaki, Osaka okonomiyaki does not include any noodles, its veggies are more finely chopped, and the whole package is more tidy.

Where to get Osaka-style okonomiyaki: There are lots of places along Dōtonbori Street in Osaka that specialize in okonomiyaki. If you ask nicely, they'll even draw Hello Kitty on top in mayonnaise.

Tokyo style, okonomiyaki:

Japan Food, Monjayaki
Monjayaki in the making.


Officially known as monjayaki, all the ingredients are blended into the batter so that it is all cooked together, almost like a pancake-omelette. Our server came to the rescue when he realized we had no idea what we were doing on our grill and piled the cut cabbage and other goodies on the outside and while much of the liquid batter cooked on the inside. Then you mash the whole thing together with little metal scrapters. Rather messy, not very orderly, but really satisfying.

Where to get monjayaki in Tokyo: Just at the main crossing at Shibuya station in Tokyo. You'll have your choice of monjayaki or okonomiyaki that you cook yourself at your table. Lots of fun, terrifically social and inexpensive.

Takoyaki

Japan Food, Takoyaki Street Food
Takoyaki from the streets of Osaka.


Takoyaki, you say? Hot octopus and herbed dough balls. All part of the experience: watching takoyaki masters quickly turn their takoyaki balls in something that looks like a cupcake pan with long toothpicks to that they are cooked evenly on all sides. Takoyaki is often topped with a sweet sauce, oregano, and ample helpings of hanakatsuo.

Where to get takoyaki:

  • Nishiki Market, Kyoto: There's a bustling stand in the covered indoor market serving up piping hot takoyaki for a great price. Fun atmosphere with lots of students hanging around.
  • Dōtonbori Street, Osaka: Several vendors sell takoyaki fresh from the grill along this busy street.

Izakaya restaurants

Izakaya are technically known as drinking restaurants, but there's usually a large menu of dumplings, salads, fried chicken and other snack bits to nosh as you drink your beer. Izakaya sometimes even offer karaoke so you can sing off all the calories. If you look around, you can find some good deals at Izakaya restaurants with dishes that run $3-$5.

Japanese Curry

Japan Food, Curry
Mixed seafood Japanese curry from Coco Ichibanya.


Although we've heard that Japanese curry originated with the British, it's nothing at all like a British or Indian curry. The best way to describe Japanese curry sauce: brown. It’s a smooth sweet and savory gravy. Although not on par with Indian or other curries, it can be a nice food break from typical Japanese fare, and it's usually pretty inexpensive.

Where to get Japanese curry: Most major cities feature inexpensive curry restaurants. We tried Coco Ichibanya in Kyoto and enjoyed a large plate of mixed seafood curry for about $10.

Japanese Soups

Japan Food, Ramen Soup
Ramen Soup at Tenkaippin Restaurant


There are quite a few restaurants specializing in soups. Often you can choose your noodle (thick udon or the thinner soba), style of broth and the meat or vegetable inside.

Where to get Japanese soups: Although a chain restaurant, Tenkaippin (or Tenka Ippin) serves a formidable bowl. Ippudo is another popular and apparently reliable soup chain.

Ootaya Restaurant

Ootoya is actually a chain restaurant, but one that features high quality food at very reasonable prices (e.g., around $8-10). A great option when you want a hearty, good-looking meal without breaking the bank. You can find Ootaya restaurants all around Tokyo, especially in and around the business disticts. We went to the one in the Subaru building in Shinjuku.

Regional Japanese Foods

Conger Eel, Miyajima

Japan Food, Anago Meshi
Anago meshi on top of a bowl of rice.


Much of the eel that you'll find in Japan is unagi, meaning freshwater eel. But in the Miyajima and Hiroshima area, the eel of choice is anago, or saltwater eel. It’s grilled slightly and then topped with a sweet sauce. We ate our anago as a rice bowl (don) just near the train station in Miyajimaguchi. Standard price is around $25-$30 per bowl.

Grilled Oysters — Miyajima

Japan Food, Grilled Oysters
Grilling oysters is a hot business on Miyajima.


You would think that with all the raw food Japanese eat they’d throw oysters into the raw eating basket. But they don’t, at least during certain times of the year when water temperatures are too high. So during the time of our visit in May, oyster vendors on Miyajima island grilled their oysters. While the oysters were not petite, they were tasty and rich, massive guys, a perfect complement to a good dry sake.

Tempura

Japan Food, Tempura
Serving up freshly fried tempura at Tsunahachi in Tokyo.


Tempura always struck us as an odd Japanese food — it is fried, whereas most Japanese food is light on oil. Dig into the history of tempura and you'll find out why: thank the Portugese influence for tempura in Japan.

While tempura is often done badly – meaning overly fried or not using fresh oils – there is a beauty to it when done well. The exterior of excellent tempura is just slightly crunchy, protecting the tenderly cooked interior. And there’s no better way to appreciate the skill behind perfectly prepared tempura than by eating at a bar where you can watch tempura masters at work.

Where to eat tempura in Tokyo: We went for the lunch menu at Tsunahachi Restaurant in Shinjuku ($15-$30). The cheapest lunch menu available, while missing some of the special seafood bits, is an excellent value. Their tempura is exceptionally high quality. We also enjoyed sitting at the bar watching the chefs do their magic. This restaurant will give you eating and dipping instructions in English to be sure you eat everything correctly. Helpful, cute and delightfully Japanese.

Hida Beef

Japanese Food, Hida Beef
Chunks of marbled Hida beef ready to go on the grill.


Many people have heard of Kobe beef, but few have heard of Hida beef. This is the new top beef in Japan according to the latest food competitions. The meat is marbled with fat, making it melt in your mouth when you grill it. Not inexpensive at $25-$30 for a set meal, but worth trying. Since the town of Hida is just north, Takayama is full of restaurants specializing in Hida beef.

Japanese Drinks and Desserts

Japan Sweets, Yatsuhashi
Yatsuhashi sweets with bean paste filling in Kyoto


We had no idea that Japanese people had such a sweet tooth, but if you look around the basement food floor of any department store you will be amazed by the array and selection of sweets. Many are made with rice flour doughs and bean paste or other bits of regional fillings. The sweets that take the cake (and we almost made ourselves sick on all the free samples in Kyoto) were the Yatsuhashi sweets — rice flour dough pillows tucked with various sweet fillings.

Sake

Japan Food, Sake Tasting
Free sake tasting in Takayama. Dangerous in the middle of the afternoon…


Made from fermented rice, sake is a traditional Japanese alcohol that pairs nicely with sushi, grilled oysters and other bits of traditional Japanese fare. Obviously, not all sake is created equal, so if your first experience is not great, don't dispair. To get a sense of the range of sake available, taste and sample as much sake as you can. If you find yourself in Takayama, be sure to take part in free sake tasting in the old town near Sanmachi (or Kamisannomachi). Look for the sugidama (large cedar balls) hanging outside, indicating that sake is brewed and served inside. The best tastings include an array of sake, and also indicate which sake is best served cold or warm.

Green tea

We had never really been big fans of green tea prior to visiting Japan. Much of what is passed off as green tea in the West, can be less than noteworthy, especially in the bottled iced tea arena where tastes border on the syrupy and tea-free.

In Japan, however green tea is everywhere, and it is often exceptionally good. There is a smooth, smoky flavor that is to be appreciated without any sugar or additives. Take the opportunity to attend a Japanese tea ceremony and you'll appreciate the culture behind tea drinking even more.

Japanese Tea Ceremony
Water preparation in a Japanese tea ceremony, Kyoto.


A note for coffee drinkers: Knowing that Japan is mainly a tea-drinking society, we were surprised by the prevalence of coffee shops and espresso machines. Getting your coffee fix is possible, however, but it is not cheap (i.e., $4-7 at a Starbucks or similar type of café).


Environmental note – BYOC (Bring Your Own Chopsticks): Most restaurants in Japan will provide you with disposable wooden chopsticks. Consider bringing a pair of your own portable / foldable chopsticks or just regular chopsticks for your Japan travels to avoid all that wooden chopstick waste.

Gluten Free Eating in Japan

If you have celiac disease or a gluten intolerance there's good and bad news about gluten free eating in Japan in general. On the positive side, some of the traditional dishes like sashimi and sushi are gluten free. On the negative side, many dishes include soy sauce (or similar) or food is fried in oil that was also used to fry batter with gluten. Restaurant staff are not always educated on what ingredients contain gluten so it's important to be careful and ask questions.

To help you navigate Japanese food so that you can eat local, but also gluten free and without getting sick, check out this Japanese gluten-free restaurant card and Gluten Free Guide to Japanese Food created by our friend, Jodi. The restaurant card explains in detail, using local food names and language, your needs as a strictly gluten free eater so that you get the meal you want and need without the fear of getting sick.
© Jodi Ettenberg DBA Legal Nomads 2019

Jodi has celiac disease herself so she understands first-hand the importance of being able to communicate gluten free needs in detail and educate waiters and restaurants on what this means in practice. In fact, she got sick many times in Japan because people didn't understand what ingredients contained gluten and the problems of cross-contamination. She created her series of Gluten Free Restaurant Cards in different languages to help celiac and gluten free travelers eat local with confidence, and without communication problems or getting sick.

Note: These gluten free restaurant cards are not part of an affiliate plan or a way for us to make money. We are extremely fortunate that we can eat everything, but we've seen the challenges of others who are celiac or have food intolerances where every meal can potentially make them sick or cause pain. These detailed gluten free cards were created to help prevent that from happening and make eating out fun and enjoyable when traveling.


By no means is this an extensive Japanese food guide, but it should help you navigate the Japanese food landscape and offer a few options for budget eating in Japan.

Japan: eat it, live it, enjoy it — and share with us your favorite features and dishes in Japanese cuisine.

いただきます Itadakimasu!

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Japanese Food
Disclosure: Our Discover Japan tour was provided by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. Some, but not all, eating expenses, were covered. As always, the opinions expressed here are entirely our own.

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Japan’s Mount Fuji: Following the Path of Pilgrims https://uncorneredmarket.com/climbing-mount-fuji/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/climbing-mount-fuji/#comments Thu, 30 Aug 2012 06:14:20 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=11726 Last Updated on November 9, 2017 by This is a story about how sometimes it’s a good thing to take the long way, to miss the bus, and to find the shrine. A torii, a broad vermillion gate, marks the ... Continue Reading

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This is a story about how sometimes it’s a good thing to take the long way, to miss the bus, and to find the shrine.

View of Mount Fuji - Yamanaka-ko, Japan
Mount Fuji, with a perfect cover of snow.

A torii, a broad vermillion gate, marks the entrance to the Fujiyoshida's Sengen Shinto shrine at the very base of Mount Fuji on the northern side of the mountain. The light of a fog-muted dawn cuts through tall trees, casting the torii as a threshold separating the ancient world up the mountain where we aim to go from the modern world down the path from whence we came. No early morning philosopher or dramatist could fashion a scene more perfect.

The shrine under the canopy is in silence and stillness, magic and mysticism. The wide trunk of a tree over 1,000 years old is carefully sashed with a thick rope called a shimenawa, a Shinto symbol indicating purity and respect for the spirits inside.

For the trailhead of a traditional pilgrimage route up Mount Fuji, a spectacular opening to a mountain journey, you’d figure this place would be mobbed. Save for a couple of Shinto priests and their assistants, there’s no one here but us.

Beginning the Yoshidaguchi Trail up Mount Fuji - Japan
Fuji Sengen Shinto Shrine, Japan

People don’t climb from the base of Mount Fuji anymore,” Pascal, our guide, fills us in on the empty space. “They take the bus up the mountain directly to Kawaguchiko Station 5.”

Time is precious and efficiency is king, but the missed opportunity strikes us as a little sad.

Mount Fuji: A Sacred Mountain Climb As Meditation

Climbing Mount Fuji once represented travel from the world of the living to the world of the dead and back. It was believed that a walk up the mountain, taken by Shinto and Buddhist pilgrims for over 1000 years, would enable the devout to cleanse themselves of their accrued sins and impurities.

The opportunity is ours: this place is on loan to us for a moment. We are about to embark on the path of pilgrims. They began here. And so would we.

Occasional shrines peek out and ema prayer boards placed by other climbers remind us how some travelers still regard this path. We are struck imagining the first monks who climbed Mount Fuji in the 7th century, clearing paths and erecting shrines along their way.

Climbing Mount Fuji - Japan
A Shinto torii (gate) and statues mark the trail up Mount Fuji in Japan.

Most of first half of the Mount Fuji trail consists of pleasant forest. There's nothing especially noteworthy unless, of course, you consider simple beauty exceptional. None of our group begrudges this at all. Our climb of Mount Fuji is in fact one of our most joyous moments of many as a group. No drama, just fresh air, companionship, space, and time to think. With Japan and all its modernity, an escape valve in the form of nature is just what’s needed.

Another lesson underscored, this one connecting travel and meditation.

Climbing Mount Fuji: When Pilgrims Climb, What Do They Wear?

After a couple of hours' brisk walk, our group stops for lunch, setting down in the grass next to a Japanese trekking group. Everyone smiles and nods, using body language to communicate a non-verbal “we climb this mountain together” sort of comraderie.

The group was mixed, male and female. This is nothing notable except when you consider that women were not allowed access to Mount Fuji until the late 19th century. The irony could be no greater: Konochana Sakuya Hime, the deity associated with Mount Fuji, is a goddess. Modernity, with all of its questionable trappings, has also brought about some good changes, too.

Amidst bites and shares of green tea and smoked green tea Kit Kats, our minds wander. We imagine those old pilgrims and their once loose clothing — robes and tunics and hand-made shoes — now all bound tightly to keep them warm when they encounter the snowline.

Contrast this with how we are dressed – light and supportive hiking shoes, waterproof and windproof clothes to protect us from the elements. We often think first about having the proper gear before considering why we’d even climb. In this way, the why of our modern lives is susceptible to being lost in the how.

In one movement, the Japanese hikers are off. We watch as they file into a single line and move together seamlessly up the hill, like a human Nordic Track, each step forward, together, spaced almost perfectly apart.

We laugh at how our group of six could barely keep it together. We are also grateful.

After lunch, the path grows steeper; we can feel the change in mountain contours. Robert, an accomplished trekker in his late sixties, begins to feel the nag of his arthritis. He slows down, but he keeps on, one step at a time, visibly working through the pain. The Japanese group apparently also feels it, their synchronized movements slowing with the pitch of the path.

Rounding the final turn approach as Station Five comes into view, we remember the parting words from our morning bus driver: “Don’t forget, the last bus from the top leaves at 3:35.”

Having developed an appreciation of the Japanese tendency to promptness, we understand that arriving even one minute past would be too late.

We pick up the pace.

Minutes later, just after 3:30, we leave behind the last stretch of peaceful mountain path for what looks like a strip mall. This is the famous, or perhaps infamous, Kawaguchiko 5th Station. It’s also our bus stop.

Unfortunately, the morning bus driver at the base was five minutes off in his estimate of the last bus down. It left just minutes before, at 3:30.

Mount Fuji Station Five: From Naked Geisha Towels to a Shrine with a View

In a matter of minutes, our guide secures another ride down the mountain, one that doesn’t leave for another hour.

We have time. We gaze at the souvenir palace before us. It’s cold.

In contrast to the previous five hours of trekking in tranquility, a whopping shopping center feels like a slap in the face. We enter anyway and have fun with (or rather, we make fun of) the overpriced tchotchke: Blueberry Cheesecake Kit Kat and the “blow dry it to make the geisha naked” towels.

Needing a retreat, we poke around for views and find the Komitake Shinto shrine tucked behind the shopping complex. Several visitors are praying and making offerings.

As we take this in, we turn around. Sure enough this is what we’d come for. A shrine with a view: the beautiful, open sky Mount Fuji summit.

Mount Fuji Peak - Japan
Mount Fuji Peak. Thankful for the time to enjoy this view.

We are thankful for the service of two shrines — one that showed us the way from the base, and the other that gives us the view. To take the bus, the short way, just wouldn’t have been the same.

The cliche goes that life is short. And with that, we speed up. And with that speed, we sometimes miss the opportunities that shouldn't be missed — like the opportunities to slow down, to connect, to catch up, to enjoy the journey — and to truly see Mount Fuji.

——-

Details on Climbing Mount Fuji

Kawaguchiko Station 5 - Mount Fuji, Japan
Mount Fuji Station 5, Hello Kitty welcomes you!

We visited Japan in May. During this time, the path to Mount Fuji summit was closed because of snow and trail conditions. The hike from Fuji Sengen Shrine at the base to Kawaguchiko Station 5 (2,300 meters) takes approximately 5-6 hours at a manageable pace. The hike is free.

Mount Fuji summit is only open to climbers in July and August. Most people take a bus to Kawaguchiko 5th Station and begin their climb there, spend a short night at a mountain hut between 7th or 8th station, and rise very early the following morning to catch the sunrise at Mount Fuji Summit.

Disclosure: Our Discover Japan tour was provided by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. Some, but not all, expenses were covered. As always, the opinions expressed here are entirely our own.

The experiences above were from the G Adventures' Discover Japan Tour. If you plan to book this or another tour with G Adventures, please consider starting the process by clicking on one of the links in the article. The price stays the same to you and we earn a small commission. Thank you!

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Fantasy Meet Reality: An Afternoon at a Japanese Maid Cafe https://uncorneredmarket.com/japan-maid-cafe/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/japan-maid-cafe/#comments Wed, 25 Jul 2012 06:32:37 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=11484 Last Updated on November 7, 2017 by I’m about to try to explain why, together with the woman who does the English language voice of Hello Kitty, Audrey and I stalked a couple of girls in rabbit suits, only to ... Continue Reading

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I’m about to try to explain why, together with the woman who does the English language voice of Hello Kitty, Audrey and I stalked a couple of girls in rabbit suits, only to end up in a big pink room eating scrambled eggs and ketchup served up by teenage Japanese girls in French maid outfits singing high-pitched children’s rhymes.

A G-rated reality wrapped in the potential for a XXX-rated fantasy.

As Bill Murray said in Lost in Translation, “This is hard.”

What Is a Japanese Maid Café?

Maid cafés first entered our realm of interest when one of our Japanese readers suggested we seek one out to appreciate the finer points, or perhaps the further reaches, of modern Japanese culture.

To vet the idea further, we asked our guide, Pascal, if he could recommend any maid cafés. His response: he whipped out a frequent visitor for one.

Tokyo Maid Cafe Card - Japan
Membership at a Tokyo Maid Cafe. Interesting.

An interesting sign.

We dug deeper. “What’s it like?

You go there and you order food or a drink and the maids do things for you, special things for you, they take care of you. They stir your drink, maybe bring you extra ice cubes.

I’m picturing gymnastics, fireballs and all sorts of nudity. My interest growing, pitching and heaving, by the second.

He intimated, however, that it’s all clean.

Interest waning. Clearly, we were lost, lost again in translation.

Seeing my disappointment, he continued, “But they can do a ‘shaka-shaka’ dance for you.

We were confused.

There, in the middle of the high-speed train from Kanazawa to Hiroshima, Pascal stood up, formed a heart by ringing the fingers of each hand, joining them together into the shape of a heart against his chest, and bobbed back and forth singing “shaka, shaka.”

Those maids clearly made an impression. Our interest: maxed out. I got that interplanetary feeling.

We asked him to do it again so we could take a video. Rather wisely, he declined.

Maid café. Now on the “Tokyo, before you split” bucket list.

Searching for a Maid Café in Akihabara, Chasing Young Girls in Bunny Suits

We met Soness, our newfound friend and the official English-language voice of Hello Kitty, at Akihabara station. In all her years in Japan, she’d never been to a maid café. It was time to do something about that. Engulfed in a sea of electronic pop culture, Sega and Taito buildings, games and sounds, beeping and buzzing, streams of humanity rippled deliberately in all directions and we struck out to find ours.

Where should we go?

Then we saw two women in French maid-meets-bunny outfits, bunny ears and all, pasteled as if they’d crawled out of a giant Easter basket.

Akihabara Maid Cafe Women - Tokyo, Japan
Following the bunnies through Akihabara.

Let’s follow them.”

They were fast bunnies. We trailed them down the main street, across a big intersection, onto a side street and finally up the stairs inside an unmarked building. They ducked into a nondescript white door and disappeared. A video production company? Maid tryouts? Porn? Nobody knows, but clearly they weren’t doing the shaka-shaka dance for us anytime soon. Comic.

We pressed our ears against the door. Silence. No din of customers talking, women singing, anime music blaring.

No shaka-shaka. Tragic.

We realized we probably looked like stalkers. We were done with the bunnies, this chapter of our Alice in Wonderland Tokyo adventure was over.

Inside a Maid Café: Maidreamin’

Back on the main street, we looked up amidst the flashing lights and signs and saw this:

MaiDreamin Maid Cafe - Tokyo, Japan
MaiDreamin Maid Cafe – Tokyo

Up to the fourth floor we went; we knocked on a white door with a small sign pasted on it: “Maidreamin”. The door opened and a group of Japanese girls with high-pitched voices welcomed us with warbles, claps, cheers, bows and a whole lot of jumping. No, not ordinary jumping — that sort of jumping where the legs scissor out like a pocket knife and the feet never leave the ground.

Never had we felt so popular, except maybe in Bangladesh.

Inside and to our left stood a three-tiered bar with pink benches. Men sat scattered, drinking glasses of juice. It reminded me of Hollywood Squares. To our right stood a tiny stage, empty. Further back, a booth of young Japanese men with giant hair snapped photos of bowls of eggs and rice. A table full of young Japanese women, perhaps university-aged, gathered nearby.

We’d been warped to another world. There was nothing high tech about the place; just simple white tables and an oozing, bubble-gummy pink décor. This warp came, however, with a price tag. We could take a seat in the Hollywood Squares section for a fee, fetch a table for a premium or sit on a couch for the highest. We chose the table, middle of the road.

A young woman with cat ears took our order, a package deal of an omelet over rice, a juice drink and a photo with our favorite maid. She had us write our names down so she could draft personalized cards for us.

As our food arrived, our maid stepped back to teach us a song. She motioned for us to cup our hands together to make a heart and urged us to move side to side, like we were doing a slow wobble — not quite a shaka-shaka dance.

I was certain this was a cult. A Japanese French maid worshipping cult. Kool-aid was likely being stirred in the back as we shimmied.

Then our maid led us in song, something about how delicious our food would be. “Yum!,” we chanted as a sort of anime-inspired blessing of our food.

At our request, our maid drew Hello Kitty in ketchup on top of our omelet, squirting out something vaguely cat-like onto the yellow puck of egg in our bowl.

Hello Kitty on Omu-Raisu (Omelet Rice) at a Maid Cafe - Akihabara, Tokyo
Hello Kitty on Omu-Raisu (Omelet Rice) at a Maid Cafe

Each time our maid approached, there was a flutter of claps and a high pitched cheer. Before we knew it, our voices rose a couple of octaves and we found ourselves clapping, meting out the occasional cheerleader-type “Yay!

“But what about the shaka-shaka dance?” I asked.

Our maid looked puzzled. She even called another maid over, inquiring as to how we might get our own special shaka-shaka.

Nobody here knew the shaka-shaka.

I needed a drink. Several, actually. Throw in a few mind-altering substances so I could catch up with what was going on.

At the next table over, a young man spoke to his maid through a Teletubby hand puppet. The bounce policy is very loose at this maid café.

When I am benevolent dictator of the universe, all troubled beings will be given a Teletubby hand puppet.

Just as we were beginning to become one with the universe, our maid reminded us that our hour was up. It was time to have our photo taken with the maid of our choice. After a prolonged deliberation: “She looks more real….No, maybe that one, she’s cuter…No, maybe that one, I like her hair.” We landed on our maid and were called to stage.

One of the other maids grabbed the instant camera. “Act like a cat,” she said.

Audrey and Soness did as they were told. I however, acted like a ram. Clearly I need some remedial animal impression lessons.

And some help.

Dan, Audrey & Soness at the Maid Cafe - Tokyo, Japan
Smiling for the camera at Maidreamin' Maid Café.

Maid Cafés and Japanese Culture?

So where does all this fit?

This is a point of great speculation in our household. I’ve even considered taking a sabbatical. Were I to spend seven whole years in Tibet contemplating this, I’m certain I would be no closer to understanding why. But I can speculate.

Japanese society is conservative, traditional, strict in its own ways, which is perhaps why fantasy, of which anime is perhaps the most prevalent manifestation, is everywhere. It’s why you see men in business suits reading anime porn on the subway, it’s perhaps why young girls dress up in cosplay costumes on the weekend in Harajuku.

So maid cafes? A curiosity? A release? An escape? From the pressures and expectations of society, work, family, of life, perhaps.

You look for your temporary suspension of what is in exchange for what can be. You look for the shaka-shaka dance and you hover over ketchup-decorated omelets dished out by young Japanese girls in short skirts.

It doesn’t matter if you are male or female, you watch your fantasy unfold in real life – if only for a short time. At the maid café.

How very Japanese? How very Japanese.

——

A few notes on visiting maid cafés in Akihabara, Tokyo

Tokyo’s Akihabara district – the center for computer game parlors, electronics, and all things anime – plays host to the greatest concentration of maid cafés. Take a stroll down Chūō-dōri street and you’ll find women in maid outfits on the streets advertising their cafés, each sporting a slightly different outfit or character angle. For the uninitiated, just go with whatever looks like fun, or better yet, make them sell you on the street so you can get a feel for what the café might hold inside.

https://photos.uncorneredmarket.com/Asia/Japan/Tokyo/i-h97gFp9

Maids on the Streets of Akihabara

Once you enter the café, charges will begin to rack up. You’ll pay an entry fee. In our case, how much we paid was based also on the style of seat we chose – community bar, private table or couch – by the hour. Fun, quirky, puzzling, but by no means inexpensive. Most cafes forbid personal photos inside, except of the food. Entry fee for three, a table for one hour, an unremarkable meal of an omelet on rice, two juices and a beer ran about $65.

Disclosure: We extended our stay in Tokyo on our own dime, including this experience above. However, the rest of our trip to Japan was provided by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. As always, the opinions expressed here are entirely our own.

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Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo, Where Sushi Gets its Start https://uncorneredmarket.com/tsukiji-fish-market-tokyo-panorama/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/tsukiji-fish-market-tokyo-panorama/#comments Fri, 29 Jun 2012 18:25:16 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=11356 Last Updated on April 22, 2024 by Audrey Scott A visit to Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market is a rite of passage for sushi enthusiasts. For those of us who bow at the altar of raw fish, it's truly a must-see. ... Continue Reading

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Last Updated on April 22, 2024 by Audrey Scott

A visit to Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market is a rite of passage for sushi enthusiasts. For those of us who bow at the altar of raw fish, it's truly a must-see.

After you've visited Tsukiji, you may never look at that piece of tako (octopus) or toro (tuna) in quite the same way ever again. Outside of the seas themselves, it doesn't get any fresher than this.

Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo, Japan
Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo, a fisheye view.


Once the famous tuna auctions wind up in the wee hours of the morning, the wholesale market opens to the general public.

As with many things Japanese, the market features a confluence of efficiency and quality, with a dose of matter-of-fact, what-you-see-is-what you get freshness. Vendors move quickly and deliberately, packing their fish and shellfish in ice while scooters and seafood lorries buzz through the main corridors. All this action underscores that this place is the heart of Japan's fresh fish distribution network.

Amidst the commercial, there's also a family feel that runs deep. We're told some Tsukiji market family-run businesses go back over 20 generations (take a moment to do the math). The person — often the family matriarch — stays perched in a little booth at the back of each stall, handling the money.

When you've reached a point of market saturation, take a walk outside to sushi alleys six through nine. Some bars feature waits of up to three hours, but don't be deterred — even the lesser known ones offer generous dons of dazzlingly fresh sashimi sculptures over mounds of sushi rice.

This is our breakfast of champions.

Sushi breakfast at Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo, Japan.
A mixed sushi donburi – rice bowl covered with raw fish – at Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo, Japan.
Disclosure: Our Discover Japan tour was provided by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. Some, but not all, expenses were covered. As always, the opinions expressed here are entirely our own.



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Fushimi Inari Shrine and the Vermillion Gates — Kyoto, Japan https://uncorneredmarket.com/fushimi-inari-shrine-torii-kyoto-panorama/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/fushimi-inari-shrine-torii-kyoto-panorama/#comments Sun, 03 Jun 2012 09:58:06 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=11245 Last Updated on February 19, 2018 by Audrey Scott Walk through the tunnel of ten thousand vermillion torii (gates) snaking their way up the mountain at Fushimi Inari Shrine outside of Kyoto and you’ll soon realize that no two are ... Continue Reading

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Last Updated on February 19, 2018 by Audrey Scott

Walk through the tunnel of ten thousand vermillion torii (gates) snaking their way up the mountain at Fushimi Inari Shrine outside of Kyoto and you’ll soon realize that no two are exactly the same. Look one way and you’ll see bare, unadorned orange posts. Turn the other and you’ll see the names of all the businesses or individuals who donated each gate as a sign of gratitude for their prosperity. Among the thankful, a range — from men of small business to giants of Japanese industry hailing from companies like Hitachi or Panasonic.

No business is too big to be thankful to Inari, the Shinto god of rice, sake and prosperity. Although it may be tempting to take rice for granted or to see it as digestive filler, the traditional association between rice (and sake, a rice-derivative alcohol) and prosperity endures. In Japan, rice is of both symbolic and real importance. It's rare to have a meal without it.

Torii at Kyoto fushimi inari shrine
A tunnel of gates (torii) at Fushimi Inari Shrine near Kyoto, Japan.

Before you find yourself fighting the urge to speed through the tunnel of vermillion, be sure to spend some time below the gates at the actual Fushimi Inari Shrine, Japan's most significant Inari site, founded in 711. There you'll witness the flow of Japanese people of all ages praying, paying homage, writing their wishes on colorful ema boards, and buying special charms called omamori in hopes that their aspirations of finding a spouse or succeeding in an exam will someday be fulfilled.

If you are visiting Kyoto, we highly recommend taking a few hours to visit Fushimi Inari Shrine in the early morning. The light is spectacular. On your return to the station after climbing through all those torii, be sure to stop off at the Zen Buddhist complex at Tofuku-ji for a hefty dose of serenity as you gaze at its Zen rock gardens.

Now, open up the panorama below and get lost in the wonder, color and light of 10,000 vermillion gates.


Disclosure: Our Discover Japan tour was provided by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. Some, but not all, expenses were covered. As always, the opinions expressed here are entirely our own.

The experiences above were from the G Adventures' Discover Japan Tour. If you plan to book this or another tour with G Adventures, please consider starting the process by clicking on links above. The price stays the same to you and we earn a small commission. Thank you!

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Japan Travel First Impressions: From Remote Control Toilets to Konbinis https://uncorneredmarket.com/japan-first-impressions/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/japan-first-impressions/#comments Sun, 27 May 2012 16:10:57 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=11220 Last Updated on July 21, 2021 by Audrey Scott Travelers and tourists are often taught to look to historical sites for cultural insight, but Japan evinces plenty of culture in the seemingly everyday. It’s clear that the country has a ... Continue Reading

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Last Updated on July 21, 2021 by Audrey Scott

Travelers and tourists are often taught to look to historical sites for cultural insight, but Japan evinces plenty of culture in the seemingly everyday. It’s clear that the country has a long and deep history — complex, with nooks and crannies, cultural twists and turns, and sweeping evolutions.

However, while I’m tempted to share my first impressions of Japan’s Buddhist and Shinto shrines, I’ll instead first share fifteen impressions of the cultural bits in the current, the white spaces of travel.

Japan, 15 First Impressions

1. The world’s most advanced toilets.

When I first set off on the road many years ago, I did so to countries whose toilets were mere holes in the ground. I’ve come a long way – this time to Japan, a country whose toilets are virtual thrones of electronic feature-laden splendor, including some which make music, many which feature remote controls, and most whose seats are heated.

But I digress. (Why I am here on the topic of Japan, talking about toilets? After all, toilet talk is rather un-Japanese.)

Ah, my first remote controlled toilet. My first heated toilet seat. And specially placed water jets to clean places you never thought to clean with a specially placed water jet. That’s a first, too.

Japanese Travel, Remote control toilets
Remote control toilet…nice.


Audrey muses that the Japanese invest so much money in their toilets because it’s their only alone time. OK, that and hygiene, and an appreciation for all things French, including the bidet. Or maybe this focus satisfies a Japanese inclination to innovate and perfect — in this case — all imaginable bathroom experiences into one unit.

When you gotta’ go, there’s never a dull moment in a Japanese toilet.

2. Salarymen: work hard, play hard.

In Japan’s cities, at any hour of the day or night, you’ll find men in dark suits and ties making their way. They are the Japanese version of businessmen, they are salarymen.

Japan travel, traveling the Tokyo subway
Tokyo Salarymen, rush hour on the subway.


You’ll see them at pace making their way to work. You’ll see them consuming anime pornography on the train platform. Maybe you’ll even see them stumbling red-faced out of an izakaya (beer restaurant), giggling, on their way to the last train home that evening.

Japan: Work hard, play hard?

3. The konbini, the Japanese convenience store.

The konbini is the Japanese incarnation of the convenience store. From the outside, one might appear ordinary, but in Japan there’s something different.

Japan travel, energy drinks
Have you ever seen such a collection of energy drinks?


Portable food, hand-packed and replenished multiple times a day. Onigiri, triangular rice parcels, bento boxes and an entire wall devoted to energy drinks. There’s even a section for plastic-wrapped white button down shirts for the salaryman who didn’t make it home from last night’s business-and-beer bender.

Japanese people spend a lot of time at work and on the go. Konbinis, their stores of convenience, fuel them.

4. Create space where there is none.

One of the prevailing images of Japan: a lot of people, and little space — particularly in the Tokyo subway. But even inside a Japanese train full of humanity, the atmosphere never quite felt claustrophobic. Nothing like in so many other places the world over, where noise pervades and people bounce off each other like pinballs.

In Japan, all those people seem to create space where there should be none. But how?

Quiet, respect and order. Mobile phones are turned to silent; no one talks on the phone in enclosed spaces. People speak in soft tones. There exists a respect for the space of others, and a willingness to do what it takes to maintain that order.

Just witness the disgorging of a packed train at rush hour and the hum of all those shuffling feet.

You just have to be in it to fully appreciate it.

5. Politeness and consideration first.

While bicycling in Takayama, Audrey almost ran into a young schoolgirl crossing the street. In response, the Japanese student bowed and smiled rather than becoming upset.

Even the elevators are trained. In one, after a crowd of people piled on, the LED display read “Sorry! This elevator is crowded!”

There’s a lot of “sorry” in Japanese discourse. No need to get angry where there is no need. No need to blame.

To some, this politeness and courtesy may seem robotic. To us, it was deliberate. In one instance, Audrey and I took the remaining seats on a train, on opposite sides. A Japanese woman next to me looked up from her book, said “change” and pointed to Audrey, indicating that she would move so we could sit together. In a flash, the woman moved and was immediately reabsorbed into her book, while Audrey and I were reunited yet again.

We witnessed this level of courtesy repeatedly. It was the rule, in no way the exception.

Some might find all this respect and consideration boring. We found it refreshing. And after a couple of weeks amidst it all, we felt spoiled. There’s only one catch: in order to feel like you fit, you must show it, too.

Fortunately, that's not very difficult.

6. Pachinko: gambling with steel pellets.

The Pachinko parlor, where the pinball machine and slot machine collide. You’ll know you’ve found a Pachinko parlor when you open the door to find rows of people seated at vertical pinball machines, boxes of metal balls at their side, loading them amidst a deafening roar.

Japan travel, Pachinko and other games
Pachinko parlor. Wish you could hear the sound on this.


We went inside a Pachinko parlor to try it out. We were confounded. You purchase silver balls (reminiscent of large BB pellets) and insert them via a tube slot into the top of a machine with arcade controls. It’s supposed to be fun, we hear. And money supposedly flows if you figure out how to work the machines. We never did.

7. Everything is a process.

In a previous life, I taught statistical process control, a practice whose roots can be found in Japanese manufacturing. You’ll see the cultural manifestation of this art-meets-science everywhere in Japan, no less so than on high-speed trains. We sat in the forward car of one to get a clear view of the driver. He checked his plan, he drove his train, he checked the tracks. Then he repeated it all, sweeping his hand across his field of view to somewhere on the side of the tracks, to an end we never quite figured out. In any event, the motions were all deliberate. The checks all deliberate, too.

Japan travel, train on time
Japanese train driver, process with white gloves.


Little, if anything, is left to chance.

This isn’t about being robotic, but about doing things deliberately and understanding the process, as well as how that process influences the result.

8. No garbage cans. No trash, either.

How can a country with public spaces so clean feature almost no public garbage cans? This takes some getting used to. It also takes filling your pockets with a bit of rubbish or carrying your own little bags of trash.

In Japan it’s one’s personal responsibility to take care of one’s trash, meaning that you typically carry it with you until you return home or to a hotel. This is why you almost never see trash left behind on subways, trains or in other public spaces.

9. Vending machines galore.

The colors and design of Japan’s vending machines mesmerized us. Almost any drink imaginable is available: energy drinks, collagen drinks (for beauty, of course), beer, even little sake boxes.

Japanese travel, beer vending machines
Dan Enjoys Beer from Vending Machine – Miyajima, Japan


Everything to drink, but nothing to eat. Why?

Drinking on the street is acceptable, while eating on the street is looked down upon.

10. A whole lot of words.

When it comes to their own language, the Japanese are a people of many words, especially it seems for the smallest of transactions or questions. Buy a bottle of water or ask for the location of a bus stop and you may be sitting there for several minutes listening to a sort of conversational routine that includes a summary of what is happening, what question is being asked, what the solution is, an alternative repetition of the solution, a third way, and then an offering of thanks and good day.

It confounded us at first to watch our guide have long conversations in Japanese, only to report back something as simple as, “The bus stop is across the street.

11. Trains really do run on time.

You know the old chestnut about how you can set your watch based on when your Japanese train passes Mt. Fuji? Well, it’s true.

Japanese bullet trains
Bullet Train Coming Through Kyoto


In two weeks of frequent train travel, only one of our trains ran late, by two minutes. Our guide, experienced in the ways of Japan, was shocked. We’re certain the employees responsible for the delay got a talking to.

12. Sidewalk braille.

Upon our arrival in Japan, one of the first features we noticed were all sorts of texture-coded yellow strips on sidewalks and inside buildings. We figured these lines were intended to draw walking lanes, to help provide order to the way people moved.

Japanese train strations
Sidewalk Braille at Hiroshima Train Station


Our guide later clued us in that these were for blind people so they could walk comfortably through cities; different patterns and textures under your feet to signal stops, crossings, turns, traffic lights and the end of train platforms.

Brilliant. And considerate.

13. Presentation and design are king.

Head to the basement of any large department store to the prepared and specialty food area and you’ll know what we mean. Everything from the smallest piece of fruit to the most elaborate sushi bento box is beautifully displayed. If you’ve ever wondered whether it was form or function that came first, ask the Japanese and they might fairly tell you both.

The importance of presentation manifests itself most perhaps in Kaiseki dinners and Japanese tea ceremonies. In the Kaiseki dinner ritual, value is not only found in the beauty of what is being served, but it in the beauty, size, color and pattern of the plates and bowls in which it's all displayed. (Read more on Japanese cuisine.)

Japanese food, Kaiseki dinner
A perfectly displayed Kaiseki dinner. Almost too pretty to eat…almost.


This is also echoed in the Japanese traditional tea ceremony, where the host takes an opportunity to leave the room so guests can discuss the merits of the instruments being used to serve the tea.

Japanese tea ceremony in Kyoto
Japanese Tea Ceremony, Kyoto

14. Onsen

For those of you who’ve been Japan, the word onsen is code for something special. For those of you who've never been, this is motivation. Onsen is the word for hot springs, but also describes communal bathing facilities. You can find them not only in nature, but also in many hotels and Japanese Inns. We enjoyed onsen several times along our trip, so much so that we almost took it for granted. When our hotel no longer featured onsen, we missed our twice daily dose of bathing.

With onsen, as with all things Japanese, there’s a process, there’s etiquette. There’s also relaxation and unwinding. And there’s a whole lot of cleaning going on.

15. Shy, but not closed.

Before traveling to Japan, we held an image of Japanese culture as one that is very reserved, almost closed. What we found during our travels, however, was something different.

Language can be a barrier, as many Japanese feel uncomfortable speaking foreign languages, especially English (or perhaps they feel unnecessarily imperfect in their mastery of it). However, if you initiate engagement you will find people who might at first come off shy, but who are eager to interact and do whatever they can to help.

Perhaps there’s no better example of this than the school children we met along our journey through Japan. Some needed a little coaxing, but most would eventually smile and laugh (and sometimes jump up and down and clap) when we would interact, answer questions and join in a photo-taking session.

Japan travel, having fun with locals
Japanese School Girls in Takayama

Admittedly, this only barely scratches the surface of Japanese culture, a culture we could easily spend a lifetime trying to comprehend. But hopefully this gives you a taste of what a couple of interlopers — whose ideas of Japan were once confined to ink stamp vending machines and Lost in Translation — believed they learned in a short time.


Have you been to Japan? What were some of your first — or lasting– impressions?

Disclosure: Our Discover Japan tour was provided by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. Some, but not all, expenses were covered. As always, the opinions expressed here are entirely our own.

 

The experiences above were from the G Adventures' Discover Japan Tour. If you plan to book this or another tour with G Adventures, please consider starting the process by clicking on one of these links. The price stays the same to you and we earn a small commission. Thank you!

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Daisho-in Buddhist Temple on Miyajima Island, Japan https://uncorneredmarket.com/daisho-in-temple-miyajima-panorama/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/daisho-in-temple-miyajima-panorama/#comments Thu, 17 May 2012 10:48:12 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=11206 Last Updated on April 26, 2024 by Audrey Scott When you enter Heniyokutu Cave at Daisho-in Buddhist temple, pause for a moment. As your eyes adjust to the darkness, details begin to appear — prayer offerings and written wishes tied ... Continue Reading

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Last Updated on April 26, 2024 by Audrey Scott

When you enter Heniyokutu Cave at Daisho-in Buddhist temple, pause for a moment. As your eyes adjust to the darkness, details begin to appear — prayer offerings and written wishes tied to the base of Buddhist statues, Japanese characters tracing the bottom of the lights, faint smiles on many of the icons. In the dim light, there’s a feeling of peacefulness amidst it all.

Take a look at the fisheye photo below to see for yourself.

Heniyokutu Cave at Daisho-in Buddhist Temple - Miyajima, Japan.
Fisheye view from inside Heniyokutu Cave at Daisho-in Buddhist Temple – Miyajima, Japan.


If you visit the island of Miyajima near the city of Hiroshima, be sure to carve out several hours to spend at Daisho-in Buddhist temple. Its grounds are covered in Buddhist statues of all shapes, sizes and decor. They're not only a photographer's dream, but they also tell the story of the diversity of symbols in Japan's versions of Buddhism.

Be sure to hang around long enough, as it will increase the likelihood that you'll catch a ceremony or two along the way.

Disclosure: Our Discover Japan tour was provided by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. Some, but not all, expenses were covered. As always, the opinions expressed here are entirely our own.

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Saying Goodbye to China: Top 10 Authentic Travel Experiences https://uncorneredmarket.com/top-10-authentic-travel-experiences-china/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/top-10-authentic-travel-experiences-china/#comments Tue, 18 Nov 2008 10:36:27 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=450 Last Updated on April 21, 2024 by Audrey Scott 43 posts and 16 photo sets later, we’ve reached the end of a long road of reflection on China, an on-the-fly addition to our around-the-world journey. The impetus to change our ... Continue Reading

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Last Updated on April 21, 2024 by Audrey Scott

43 posts and 16 photo sets later, we’ve reached the end of a long road of reflection on China, an on-the-fly addition to our around-the-world journey.

Classic Pingyao
A classic Pingyao street scene.

The impetus to change our itinerary occurred while we were in Central Asia. Several seasoned travelers and experts, having just come from China, convinced us to seize the moment and visit before the Olympics. We're glad we did.

To anyone possessing even a remote interest in seeing traditional China, we offer similar advice: go soon before it disappears under the wrecking ball.

To conclude our reflections: a slideshow of the Best Of China’s Landscapes and Cityscapes plus our Top 10 Authentic China Experiences.

Top 10 Authentic Travel Experiences in China

Our use of the word authentic in the title is deliberate. China’s tourism development officials seem to revel in contriving experiences for visitors, resulting in large tchotchke-filled concrete-poured pavilions called “Tourist Leisure Centers” and newly built or heavily renovated “ancient” temple complexes and old towns.

The antithesis of authenticity perhaps?

For us, the most engaging and touching moments are those that showcase the real lives of people carving their way through daily life. And call us nostalgic, but moments that genuinely speak to bygone eras are satisfying, too.

  1. Searching for Audrey's grandfather's house in Qingdao, being questioned by the police (authentic, but not fun) and recovering by eating “Pork with Douche” dumplings.
  2. Getting lost amidst testicle stands and duck vendors at the sprawling ethnic markets of Gedong and Chong'An in Guizhou Province.
  3. Hiking the Hani terraced rice fields of Yuanyang (Yunnan Province), watching Dan get his chest hair pulled by another man and absorbing the colorful weekly ethnic market in Niujiazhai.
  4. Goofing around with kids at a streetside market outside of Jinghong in Xishuangbanna (Yunnan Province)…much relief after a two-day bus trip with the Chinese Olympic Spitting Team.
  5. Stumbling upon a Tibetan Opera and a crowd of Tibetan Buddhist pilgrims at Labrang Monestary in Xiahe (Gansu Province).
  6. Taking in the animal parade (camels included) at the early-morning opening of the Kashgar Sunday Animal Market (Xinjiang Province) and ending the day with pulled noodles at the night market.
  7. Discovering a pocket of freedom of expression at Factory 798 in Beijing.
  8. Avoiding the ear cleaner, surviving Sichuan hot pot and finding the pandas amongst the 10 million people of greater Chengdu.
  9. Having the Great Wall to ourselves at Jinshanling and hiking 12 km atop the wall to Simatai on a clear and brisk December day.
  10. Eating…everywhere!

Photo Gallery: Best of China – Landscapes and Cityscapes

If you'd like more details on any of these photos, go to the Best of China – Landscapes and Cityscapes photo set and check out the description under each photo. If landscapes don't do it for you, but people do, check out The Many Faces of China.

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Slideshow: The Many Faces of China https://uncorneredmarket.com/slideshow-the-many-faces-of-china/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/slideshow-the-many-faces-of-china/#comments Fri, 14 Nov 2008 11:55:32 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=452 Last Updated on October 29, 2017 by Audrey Scott The arc of our travel experience is shaped by the people we meet. Even the most beautiful food and landscape need a human context. With that in mind, we offer a ... Continue Reading

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Last Updated on October 29, 2017 by Audrey Scott

The arc of our travel experience is shaped by the people we meet. Even the most beautiful food and landscape need a human context. With that in mind, we offer a selection of faces – each with a story – that we will recall whenever we reflect on our travels in China.

The following slideshow is our take on China's ethnic diversity. While these images represent only a fraction of China's 56 official ethnic groups (there are scores more unofficial ones), we hope they give you a better feel for the various people who call China their home.

If you'd like to know more about the people you see in the slideshow, go to our Many Faces of China photo set and click on the individual photos for a full description.

While we're on the subject of cultural diversity in China, do you remember the celebration of ethnic diversity at the opening ceremony of the 2008 Beijing Olympic games? You know, the one where all those cute little ethnic minority kids paraded around in their traditional outfits. It seems that the children were not actually members of the ethnic groups they were supposed to represent, but rather Han Chinese children disguised in traditional ethnic outfits.

We assure you that the people featured in our slideshow are for real.

If you are interested in reading about China's ethnic minority areas, check out our Ethnic China Series (see links below).

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A Chinese Food Grab Bag https://uncorneredmarket.com/chinese-food-grab-bag/ https://uncorneredmarket.com/chinese-food-grab-bag/#comments Sun, 09 Nov 2008 21:16:02 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=443 Last Updated on December 6, 2019 by Audrey Scott To close our Chinese food series, we share a few miscellaneous bits, bites and highlights that we just couldn’t shoehorn into the previous segments. We remember fondly the Chinese dining experience: ... Continue Reading

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Last Updated on December 6, 2019 by Audrey Scott

To close our Chinese food series, we share a few miscellaneous bits, bites and highlights that we just couldn’t shoehorn into the previous segments. We remember fondly the Chinese dining experience: refrigerator cases full of greens, skyscraper piles of tofu, the flash fry technique, earthy-brown soy and sesame oil chili pepper sauces, and copious condiments.

The Chinese consider the number eight lucky. We can all use a little luck, so we limit our list accordingly.

Chinese Heart-Shaped Meal
Heart-shaped Chinese food goodness.

Grilled Tofu

If you like tofu, you’ll be in heaven in China. If you don’t like tofu, give it another chance since you are virtually guaranteed fresh tofu in China; it's a whole different experience.

Yuanyang Spicy Tofu - Yunnan
Grilled tofu in a perfect dipping sauce. Yuanyang, Yunnan.

In the Yuanyang region of Yunnan Province, grilled tofu stands dot the streets and markets of towns and villages like Xinjie and Niujiazhai. Tofu grill-masters ensure that each tofu pillow is perfectly browned. Serve yourself: snatch the piece of your choice with your chopsticks and dip it in a spicy combination of soy sauce, hot pepper sauce and other condiments.

Cat’s Ears Noodles

Hop outside the old town city walls of Pingyao (near the post office) and you’ll find some hole-in-the-wall local restaurants serving all manner of fascinating noodles typical of Shanxi Province. Our favorite: buckwheat noodles in the form of little buckets or – if you look at them right – cat’s ears. These noodles go by any number of the following names: kao lao lao, lao lao youmian, cat’s ears noodles, and wowo and are sided with a tomato-based sauce.

Beehive Noodles - Pingyao
Cat's ears noodles in Pingyao, China.

Pingyao Beef (平遥牛肉)

The history of braised Pingyao beef may be a bit sketchy, but the taste is not. The texture of Pingyao beef resembles that of corned beef. The flavor is difficult to pin down; Pingyao beef is prepared with a five-spice (or five aroma: sweet, sour, bitter, savory, and salty) seasoning which features a combination of cinnamon, cassia, ginger root, cloves, fennel seed, star anise and occasionally Sichuan peppercorns. The result: beef that is tender, fragrant, and delicately rich. Terrific when sided by a decent bottle of Chinese wine (look for Xinjiang labels, stay away from Great Wall and large volume brands, open the bottle and let it breathe).

Where to find it: TianYuanKui Hotel: Although a bit more expensive than some other restaurants in town, the Pingyao beef is spectacular. Address: 73 NanDa Jie, Pingyao. Harmony Guesthouse also offers a different, but still very good, Pingyao beef. Address: No.165 Nan Da Jie Street, Pingyao.

Lotus Root:

Lotus root sounds exotic. Looks it, too. It's delicate, crispy, and vaguely sweet. The pattern inside a lotus root recalls a stencil from art class. Like any good root, lotus tends to take on the flavors surrounding it; it's often marinated with vinegar or chili sauce and makes for a refreshing starter or palate cleanser.

Spicy Lotus Root Kunming
Spicy locus root.

Where to find it: Xiao Wang’s Home Restaurant serves a pleasant vinegar-marinated version at No 2 Building, GuangHuaDongLi in the Chaoyang area in Beijing.

Peking Duck

Plum sauce, scallions and thin crepe-like pancakes round out the multi-layer meat-and-duck fat deal, yielding a delicate balance of salty and sweet. Although we’d argue that Peking duck isn’t the be-all, end-all of Chinese cuisine, it’s worth a taste and holds its place in the pantheon of familiar Chinese delicacies.

Peking Duck at Xiao Wang
A full Peking Duck spread in Beijing.

Where to find it: We enjoyed the lean Peking Duck at Xiao Wang’s Home Restaurant in the Chaoyang area of Beijing.

Jian Bing Egg Crepe (鸡蛋灌饼)

Also known as the Beijing breakfast pancake, this treat is special, but not exclusive to Beijing. The savory combination of egg crepe, egg, coriander, spring onion and sesame flipped and doused with chili sauce or sweet bean paste will get wake you up in the morning or tide you over in the afternoon until dinner. As with any good street food, the production process is almost as pleasing as the result.
Where to find it: Best taken from a street cart with a dose of nostalgia in one of Beijing's few remaining low-slung traditional hutong neighborhoods.

Yunnanese Goat Cheese (乳饼 rǔbǐng)

Yes, you read correctly: Chinese goat cheese. Though the goat cheese in Yunnan Province doesn’t quite live up to chevre, its French cousin, it is worth a taste. Braised and served with salt (white salt or sometimes sulfuric black salt) and cracked black pepper, it is relatively mild and looks a bit like braised tofu (similar texture too).

Yunnanese Goat Cheese - Kunming
Goat cheese, Yunnan style.

Fresh Soy Beans

You can find this dish anywhere in Yunnan province. Tiny and buttery, shelled fava fresh soy beans are another terrific vegetarian staple available from the capital of Kunming to the hinterlands of Xishuangbanna. Top it off with roasted red chili sauce for a little kick.

Steamed Beans - Kunming
Fresh soy beans, a popular dish in Yunnan province.

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