The hike to the Lost City in northern Colombia takes you 46km (28 miles) round trip through the jungles, hills and river valleys of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. We’d had our sights set on the Lost City Trek for years, so expectations had built up. Fortunately, the challenge, landscape, and experience exceeded so many of them.

This Lost City Columbia Hiking Guide shares why that is and includes a day-by-day overview of the Lost City Trek, all you need to know to choose the right tour, how to pack and organize so that you can enjoy the Ciudad Perdida and this multi-day hike to the fullest.

We were out of breath, having just climbed 1,200 stone steps when Celso, our indigenous guide, called for us to join him around a group of stones arranged in a circle in a clearing. In the middle of the circle stood another square stone on top of which lay a pile of coca leaves placed as an offering. Celso explained with trademark calm in a slow, deliberate voice, “This is a place where we should let go of our impurities, our negative thoughts and emotions.”

We stood in silence, not only to “cleanse” ourselves so that we might better experience this sacred site, but also to enjoy its peace and quiet. To Celso, we were then prepared to further visit Teyuna, otherwise known as the Lost City (La Ciudad Perdida) in Colombia, the ultimate destination to which we’d been trekking in the rain forest for the previous two days.

Here’s why you might want to consider putting the Lost City or Ciudad Perdidia in Colombia on your travel or hiking wish list, in case it isn’t there already. In this Lost City Colombia Guide we include the day-by-day hiking experience plus all you need to know about to choose a Lost City tour and how plan, prepare for and pack to be able to enjoy the complete Lost City Colombia experience.

Update: This article was originally published in June 2015 and updated in May 2022 with information about the new G Adventures Lost City Trek itinerary.

The following experiences are from our G Adventures Lost City Trek. If you are considering this tour and want to know what to expect, here’s a taste of the itinerary and route, interaction with local indigenous guides, campsites and Wiwa community project. Disclosure: This tour was sponsored and provided to us in conjunction with our partnership with G Adventures as Wanderers.

About this Lost City Colombia Trek Guide

When I researched the Lost City Trek as part of our travels in Colombia, I found a fair bit of conventional history about the site, often paired with a photo or two of the final destination, including what I refer to as the “golf course” shot.

What I didn’t find much of was information on what the actual journey to the Lost City was like, including the hiking experience, difficulty, landscapes, sleeping and eating conditions, weather, and more. That's the goal of this Lost City Trek day-by-day section.

The landscape along the trail is more beautiful and varied than we had expected and the Lost City site itself is far more extensive than most photos indicate. We especially appreciated having an indigenous guide to put everything into cultural and historical context.

Celso, a member of the local Wiwa indigenous community, shared his culture with us and linked it to the other indigenous communities, their relationship to nature and their shared connection to the ancient Tayrona civilization.

Our days usually began early, around 5:00 A.M., so we could get on the trail while it was still cool and so that we could complete our day’s journey before the rains of the mid-late afternoon. We appreciated getting up early, and we enjoyed all the benefits of the early morning – light, coolness and silence among them.

Lost City Trek Map

The map below shows the basic Lost City trail with different options for campsites and sections. We did a four-day hike, but if you opt for a five-day Lost City trek then your second and third days will be shorter as you'll have two days to complete that same route. The current G Adventures Lost City Trek is five days.

Hiking to the Lost City in Colombia: Day by Day Itinerary

Day 1 of the Lost City Trek

All Lost City treks, no matter which tour company you choose, seem to set off from Santa Marta in northern Colombia. From there, a jeep or van transfer takes 45 minutes along the highway.

You’ll likely stop at a convenience store for last minute snacks and water. From there, you’ll head up a dirt track into the mountains.

After you arrive in Machete, you’ll have lunch, say goodbye to the driver and meet your local indigenous hiking guide. Then, the hike begins. (Note: this is when you should ask the people coming off the trek if they have a walking stick they can give you. It is really helpful for balance and ease on the trail.)

The beginning of the walk eases you into things, with a swimming hole a close 25 minutes from the trailhead. After cooling off in the water, you’ll have a steep uphill for around 45 minutes, then a bit of a break, then a long descent into the valley where the first campsite is located.

Day 2 of the Lost City Trek

If you are doing a 4-day Lost City Trek, then this is a long hiking day. If you are doing a 5-day route like the G Adventures Lost City Trek then this will be a similar distance as the previous day, 7-8 km, to Wiwa Camp (Campsite #2).

The first segment of the day takes you uphill and across some beautiful terrain, including some local farms. After a jump in a swimming hole and lunch at Campsite #2 (Wiwa Camp), we continued all the way to Campsite #3 (El Paraiso or Paso Lorenzo Camp), located only 1 km downhill from the site of the Lost City.

If you are doing the 5-day Lost City Trek, then you would stop at Campsite #2 for the night.

This day takes you through a great deal of varied landscape — deeper into the tropical jungle, across rivers and by a couple of Kogi village communities along the way.

Day 3 of the Lost City Trek: Visiting La Cuidad Perdida

You rise very early on this day (around 4:30A.M.) so that you can set off at dawn and enjoy the Lost City in the softest light and coolest air possible. After a short walk from the campsite, you reach the starting point of the 1,200 stone stairs you’ll need to walk and scramble to reach the terraces of the city above.

It’s not an easy climb, and can be a bit treacherous if wet or damp, but if you take care and get into a meditative rhythm, you’ll find it goes very quickly.

After the steps, you’ll have reached the lower chambers of Teyuna, also known as The Lost City or Ciudad Perdida. It is believed that this was a capital city built by the Tayrona civilization in 800 A.D., approximately 600 years before the Incas built Machu Picchu in Peru.

When Spanish colonialists came close to finding or approaching the in the 16th century, the Tayrona people opted to abandon the city instead of allowing it to fall into Spanish hands.

Of course, the Lost City Colombia was never truly “lost.” Teyuna was overtaken by jungle for the next several hundred years, as only the shaman (holy men) of the four indigenous groups who live in the area were aware of its existence and would visit it regularly for ceremonies.

It wasn’t until the early 1970s that the site was “discovered” by the outside world. Tomb thieves cleared out much of the gold, valuable artifacts and other remains. Due to this misfortune and the fact that no written record of the Tayrona exists, much about the city and civilization remains the subject of speculation.

The Wiwa, Kogi, Arhuaco, and Kankuamo indigenous groups that remain in the area are believed to be the descendants of the Tayrona and have carried on their stories and traditions.

We noticed when we arrived at the Lost City, Celso let down his hair, the surprising length of which is said to represent the wisdom that flows from the sacred mountains through the rivers to the coast. He was dressed in white, as was his custom, to represent the purity and integrity of the snow-covered peaks of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, out of sight in the distance.

Throughout our journey, he shared stories that had been passed on to him, through generations, from shaman to shaman, from elders to children, about the Lost City / Ciudad Perdida. The stories told of its creation, the symbolism of the different terraces, and the Tayrona relationship with nature.

The indigenous people that inhabit the area around the Lost City in Colombia believe they are the symbolic “elder brothers,” there to protect both the sacred Sierra Nevada Mountains and their “younger brothers” – meaning the rest of us.

The sense of responsibility to the equilibrium and the good and health of others was evident.

After your visit to Teyuna, the Lost City, you return to El Paraiso or Paso Lorenzto Camp (Campsite #3) for a quick lunch and begin your return all the way to Wiwa Camp (Campsite #2).

For us, we were met with an afternoon downpour that made it feel as though we were skiing through mud crevasses in the rain forest. We were glad for the experience. It was actually more delightful than it sounds as the rain was warm and everything around was so green and lush drinking in the much appreciated water.

Day 4 of the Lost City Trek

Start/Finish: Wiwa Camp (Campsite #2) to Machete and Santa Marta
Distance: 12.7km
This is another early rise since much of the trail is uncovered and therefore becomes quite hot as the day goes on. Try to make it as far as you’re able before the sun becomes too strong.

As you’ll remember from your first day, much of the trail is up or down, without much in between. After a stop for fruit at the first campsite and a jump in the swimming hole, you find yourself back where you began, with a celebratory lunch in Machete.

Then you'll transfer by vehicle to Santa Marta for a nice, hot shower and to reunite with the rest of your stuff.

Lost City Trek Difficulty and Hiking Conditions

We’d give this trek a medium-high difficulty ranking for all the reasons we’re about to elaborate. This means that you should not require special training to hike the Lost City Colombia trail, but you should be relatively active and in good physical shape.

You should either be accustomed to or be prepared for day-long treks with steep, slow uphill climbs and long walks in intense heat and humidity.

Lost City Trek is Not a Technical Trail

The Lost City Trek is not at all technical, meaning that you will not need any special equipment (e.g., climbing ropes or other fittings). The trail is well-maintained and for the most part, it’s an easy path to follow. But, it’s necessary to have a guide to navigate the rivers and some turns.

You’ll have to cross a few streams or rivers — with river shoes on or with your shoes and socks in your hand — but that is part of the fun.

Altitude, Steep Hills and Valleys

Altitude is not really an issue, as the trek’s highest point is around 1,500 meters/4,920 feet. However, the Lost City trail seems to either be straight up or straight down without much flat so there's a lot of steep ascents and descents on the trail.

Our advice is to take it slow and steady on the uphill. Keep in mind that it’s not a race. It’s better to hike deliberately and slowly and take fewer breaks than to go quickly and wear yourself out with frequent and longer stops to recover.

Heat and Humidity

One of the challenges of the Lost City Colombia Trek is the combination of heat and humidity. I’m not sure we’ve ever poured sweat with such intensity and consistency. It actually felt great, like a cleansing process.

Just be sure that you drink plenty of water to replenish. Note that respite from the heat comes a couple of times a day in the form of rivers and swimming holes to jump into.

Bugs Along the Trail

Another challenge and irritation of this trek: bugs and their bites. There are lots of them, especially mosquitoes at the Lost City itself. We suggest applying plenty of bug repellent (bring on the DEET if you need to).

If you are especially susceptible to mosquito bites consider hiking in long trousers as Dan did. Finally, pick up a pack of generic B-complex tablets (“Compejo-B generico” runs 25 pills for $1.00) in a pharmacy in Santa Marta before the hike, as certain B vitamins are said to repel mosquitoes.

Another thing to watch out for are fleas and/or bedbugs in the hammocks and/or blankets at the campsites – this is where we collected most of our bug bites (especially campsite #2). We recommend carrying a sleep sack, so that you have another layer of protection while you are sleeping.

Finally, check your body closely for ticks when you emerge from the Lost City Trek. We each had a few on us; they are very tiny and difficult to see, so look closely. (Note: For advice on how to properly remove a tick, check out this article.)

Rain and Mud Along the Lost City Trail

We had been warned plenty about rain and mud, but didn’t find wet weather too much of a hindrance. Yes, it rained from time to time (usually mid-afternoon), but it was often so hot anyway that the cool rain was welcome.

Be certain any valuable electronic gear is well-protected and any dry sleeping clothes are at least wrapped in plastic (e.g., ziploc, garbage bags or a dry sack) inside your backpack. Then, have an outer backpack cover to protect your backpack from the elements.

If you fall in the mud, just go with the flow and don’t think about it too much. You can always wash yourself and your clothes later.

Best Time to Hike the Lost City Trail

While you will experience heat and humidity almost all year round in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of northern Colombia as it is a rain forest, there is still a rainy and dry season. December through March is considered the dry season and so it often is considered the bet time to hike the Lost City Trek.

In general, May through September is considered the rainy season for the region. This means expect more downpours and higher river crossings. That doesn't mean that you should avoid those months altogether as the rain can be a welcome relief from the heat and provide an interesting experience. For example, we did our G Adventures Lost City Trek in early June and thought the few rainfalls were kind of pleasant and added to the experience.

Note: The Lost City Trail is usually closed in September for trail maintenance and to do upkeep on the campsites and other services.

Lost City Trek Food

You will certainly not go hungry on the Lost City Trek. Each group is assigned a cook and not only will you be served three large meals a day (e.g., fish and rice, pasta, chicken and potatoes), but you will also enjoy well-placed fruit stops along the trail. These are very welcome for the additional boost of energy and hydration just when you need it.

If you are vegetarian or have food restrictions (e.g., gluten or lactose free), alert your trekking company and your guide in advance so they can respond accordingly.

Lost City Trek Campsites and Sleeping

There are a handful of different campsites along the way that the tour companies use. We can only speak firsthand to the ones that we stayed in — Adán Camp, Wiwa Camp, and El Paraiso — but we understand that the other campsites are quite similar in design, comfort and services.

Not always, but often, you’ll have an option to sleep in a hammock or on a mattress/bed (both with mosquito nets). We always chose the hammocks, but some may prefer mattresses.

There are cold water showers and flush toilets at all the campsites. Clotheslines will be strung around so you’ll be able to hang up your wet clothes from the day. However, the rain forest is damp so do not expect anything to fully dry overnight, if at all.

Evenings also get cool, so keep a long-sleeved shirt or fleece jacket handy at night.

Organizing a Lost City Tour: Your Options

Choosing a trekking operator

You cannot do the Lost City Trek independently (at this time), meaning you must go with one of the four or five authorized tour operators. We took our Lost City Trek with G Adventures and can highly recommend the experience.

G Adventures work with a local organization that provides indigenous guides so that their travelers are able to learn about the indigenous cultures and communities still living in the Sierra Nevada mountain area.

Regardless of which operator you choose to take you on the Lost City Trek, we suggest you select one that works with indigenous guides. The cultural and living history background is essential to a full Lost City Colombia experience.

How many days do you need for the Lost City Trek?

Most trekking operators offer four-, five- or six-day trek options. We did the Lost City Trek in four days, but now all the standard G Adventures Lost City Trek offerings are five days. As the route is the same, the main difference is that a five-day trek includes a relaxed day #2 with only a few hours of trekking to the second campsite.

As for the six-day option, we can’t really imagine taking that much time to do the trek. But if you are worried about your trekking abilities and stamina then talk with an operator regarding what they suggest.

Leaving your luggage behind during the trek

Most accommodation and tour operators/trekking agencies will allow you to leave your big bags or luggage with them for the few days that you're doing the Lost City Trek. We left our big backpacks at our hotel in Santa Marta and we saw other travelers leave their bags at the tour operator/trekking agency office.

Lost City Trek Essential Gear and Packing List

Much of what we include in our Hiking Essentials Checklist holds true for the Lost City Trek. However, we offer a customized Lost City Trek packing list with recommended hiking gear for this specific hiking experience. The goal is to ensure you have what you need for the tropical rain forest conditions but that don't overpack and weigh yourself down with a heavy backpack.

While there is the option on some of the route to hire a mule to carry luggage and belongings, it's best not to count on it. You should pack and plan as if you will be carrying your pack the entire length of the trail.

Trust us, pack light. You’ll quickly begin to feel the extra weight going up those steep hills.

Hiking Backpack for the Lost City Trek

When we did our Lost City Trek we just repurposed our regular travel and laptop daypacks. This worked fine at the time, but since then we have invested in real hiking backpacks that fit our backs better and don't cause any aches and pains in the shoulders or back.

Here are two recommended options for hiking backpacks that will fit the hiking clothing and gear you need, but not be too big or bulky:

• Women's Hiking Backpack: I have a larger version of this Deuter ACT Trail Pro SL Backpack (22-Liters) and love it. The SL backpacks are designed for women's bodies and I find this backpack fits me really well, is well designed with its own backpack cover and zippered areas, and is both light and sturdy.
• Men's Hiking Backpack: Dan loves Osprey hiking backpacks as they fit his body type (e.g., tall) and back really well. He likes the Osprey Stratos 24-Liter Hiking Backpack for day hies or for multi-day hikes like this where you don't need to carry a lot of gear.

Refillable Water Bottle for Drinking Water

You will go through several liters of water each day (if not, then you’re not drinking enough) since you’ll be sweating constantly. Bring with you 1-2 refillable water bottles or a water bladder so that you always have at least one liter of water on you at all times.

Each campsite offers clean water, so you can refill your water bottles every couple of hours on the trail. If you really want to play it safe consider carrying with you a SteriPEN or sterilization drops.

Consider bringing electrolyte sports drink tablets or packets with you to help you replenish some of the minerals that you’ll sweat out each day. And let’s face it, sometimes drinking liters of water gets boring and you want some flavor.

Walking Stick

We highly recommend carrying a walking stick. We were very thankful for ours, especially when things got muddy and slippery. Hikers just finishing and on their way out of the trail donated their wooden sticks to us. If this doesn’t happen, then ask your guide for one and he will find a walking stick for you, or fashion one for you with his machete.

Alternatively, bring your own walking sticks (these are good travel-friendly walking sticks). We usually just use one stick each so a set of two is sufficient for two people.

Hiking Clothing for the Lost City Trek

You really don’t need much in the clothing department. Don’t worry about packing clean clothes for each day. You will be sweating buckets within minutes every morning of getting out on the trail.

Here’s what we suggest for hiking clothing and gear essentials:

• 1 set of hiking clothes: T-shirt (preferably quick dry), shorts, hiking socks. This means you will wear the same clothes every day. Don’t worry about it. Everyone does it. And you’ll be thankful not to carry the weight of extra clothes.
• Note: if mosquitoes love you, consider wearing hiking pants the whole time. Dan did this and it cut down on his mosquito bites considerably. If you are especially sun-sensitive, consider bringing a very light long-sleeved hiking shirt, but be aware that you may be warm.
• Hiking shoes: We wore low-rise hiking shoes (his and hers) and these worked great for us. Other people wore light trainers, however some mid-ankle support is useful because of the pitch of the terrain.
• 1 set of evening clothes for post-shower and sleep: T-shirt, long pants (or pajama bottoms), socks. To ensure these remain dry, pack them in a plastic bag or other impermeable container inside your backpack.
• Extra t-shirt: Just in case.
• Underwear for every day of your trek: With an extra pair thrown in for good measure, if you like. Recommended his and hers quick dry underwear for men and women.
• Extra pair of socks: Just in case your first pair get soaked beyond comfort while rock jumping at the river crossings.
• Bathing suit: Keep near the top of your backpack to have handy for swimming holes.
• Long-sleeved shirt: For cool nights or sleeping (recommended his and hers).
• Fleece jacket: For cool nights or sleeping (can double as a pillow, too).
• Rain jacket (optional): We didn't use ours due to the heat and humidity. We appreciated the cool rain. Not to mention, a rain jacket in the tropics can feel like a personal sauna.
• Flip-flops or river shoes: To use in river crossings, showers, and evenings when you wish to get out of your hiking shoes. Women's Tevas | Men's Tevas

Other Essential Hiking Gear

• Waterproof backpack cover: You never know when a rainstorm will hit, so it’s essential to keep a rain cover for your backpack close at hand. Your guide will likely also have a supply of plastic garbage bags in case you need extra rain protection.
• Quick-dry travel towel: To dry off after showers, and also after a swim. Hang it on the outside of your backpack in the morning so it dries quickly in the sun and air as you move.
• Silk sleep sack: To provide an extra layer between you and the hammock (or mattress) and blanket. Fleas and other bugs in the hammocks bit us and other travelers we spoke to.
• Headlamp: Most of the campsites do not have electricity, so be prepared. Carry your own headlamp to find your way to the toilet and to sort through your stuff at night in and around your hammock.
• Silicone earplugs: A precaution in the case your camp has a snorer. We know from our Lost City experience that this can demolish a good night’s sleep.

Toiletries and Health Kit

You will have access to a shower every evening, and you will be so thankful for the cold water shower to wash away all the sweat and salt on your body from the day’s efforts.

• Shampoo, soap, toothbrush and toothpaste: The basics.
• Sunscreen: The higher the SPF, the better
• Sunglasses: Of course.
• Bug repellent: You will apply this frequently, especially at the Lost City itself. The mosquitoes there are big, aggressive and plenty.
• Hand sanitizer: To be on the safe side.
• Pack of tissues or toilet paper: The campsites all have toilet paper, but it’s always a good idea to carry a pack of tissues in case of messes, spills or emergencies.
• Vitamin B Complex: Take one pill per day (called Complejo-B in Spanish, available at pharmacies in Colombia). Supposedly, mosquitoes don’t appreciate the smell and taste of your blood when B-1 Thiamine is present. It is debatable whether this really works to repel mosquitoes, but we appreciated using it and felt that it helped.
• Foot care and blisters: Duct tape is very effective for hot spots and blisters on your feet. Also consider picking up some Compeed, which is magic when you already have blisters.
• Medical Kit (for emergencies): Your guide will also have some basic first aid items with him, but it's always good to be prepared. Our basic medical kit includes: Band-Aids, anti-bacterial gel (for cuts), rehydration powders or electrolyte tablets, Azithromycin/Ciprofloxacin (or another medication against stomach bacteria), Tylenol/Panadol (anti-headache/aches), Immodium (or some sort of “stopper” if you get diarrhea), tea tree oil (great to apply to mosquito bites) Note: all these are easily and inexpensively purchased at local pharmacies, including in Santa Marta from where you depart for the trek.

Electricity and Charging Batteries

While a couple of the campsites do have electricity, it’s unreliable. Prepare yourself for not having access to electricity during the trek. Some tips to handle this and further your battery power.

• Put your smartphone on airplane mode. There is no connectivity along the trek anyhow, so don't waste your phone’s battery power trying to find a network.
• Consider buying a phone case that doubles as an extra battery. It provides another 1-1.5 charges.
• Take an extra camera battery or two.
• Don’t spent time reviewing your images, as this will eat up your battery power quickly. Unless you are reviewing images to determine whether you’ve captured a specific shot, there will be time enough for photo review when your trek is finished.

Have other questions about the Lost City Trek in Colombia? Just ask in the comments below and we’ll incorporate the information into the article so others may benefit.

Disclosure: Our Lost City trek was provided to us by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. As always, the thoughts contained herein — the what, the why, and the how — are entirely our own.

The post The Lost City, Colombia: A Guide to Hiking to La Ciudad Perdida appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Doing the Huayhuash Trek in the Cordillera Huayhuash in Peru had been a dream of ours for over a decade. Although our expectations were high, the reality of our experience far exceeded them: eight high mountain pass crossings, surrounding peaks of 6,000+ meters (20,000+ feet), turquoise alpine lakes, stunning glacier-covered mountains, and a diversity of landscapes. Each day felt like a different experience, a new discovery. After answering endless questions about planning, organizing and preparing for a Huayhuash trek, it’s time to share it all in this Huayhuash Trekking Guide.

Many people have never heard of the Cordillera Huayhuash since the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu usually get all the tourist and adventure travel attention in Peru. However, this small sub-range of the Peruvian Andes packs a huge punch for its size. Although only 30km long it includes six peaks over 6,000 meters (20,000 ft.) and features spectacular panoramic views of scores of high snow-covered peaks from different perspectives.

It’s not a coincidence that the Cordillera Huayhuash, together with the Himalayan Mountains in Nepal and India, is often listed among the top in the “best places in the world to trek” lists. Yes, it's that stunningly beautiful.

Here's why the Huayhuash Trek is one of the best treks we've ever done and why we continually recommend it. Writing this Huayhuash Trekking Guide brings back excellent memories and makes us want to return to explore even more.

How to use this Huayhuash Trekking Guide: This article is intended to be comprehensive. It contains all the information we wish we'd found when we researched and planned our own Huayhuash Trek. It includes all you need to choose, organize, pack for and enjoy trekking in the mountains of the Cordillera Huayhuash. Plus, it outlines what to expect day by day on the Huayhuash Trek. If questions remain, leave a comment so that others may benefit from the answer and information.

Peru Covid Travel Update

Peru is open to travelers and you can find all of the Covid travel and entry requirements on this official website. In addition to filling out a health declaration in advance, you will need to show proof of vaccination or testing to enter the country.

Currently (February 2022), the local communities along the Huayhuash treks are open for foreign visitors and camping, but some may have special requirements to enter. Be sure to check in advance with your trekking agency or tour operator. In addition, for safety and health reasons many trekking agencies are limiting group tours and are focusing mostly on individual tours.

Choosing a Huayhuash Trek

Huayhuash treks fall roughly into two categories: short (4-7 days) and long (8-14 days). If you have the time, we recommend choosing a route that is 10-12 days through the Cordillera Huayhuash. This length of circuit can provide a complete Huayhuash experience and deliver more views and stunning landscapes than you thought possible in one trek.

Classic Huayhuash Trek (8-14 days)

Longer treks will take you over more mountain passes in a full circuit so you can appreciate some of the high peaks from multiple angles. Each day includes at least one, and sometimes two, mountain passes ranging from 4,000+ meters/ 13,000+ feet up to 5,050m/16,570 feet. It is recommended to do three acclimatization hikes in and around Huaraz before embarking on one of these treks (see below for details).

We chose a 10-day Huayhuash trek and were very happy with the route, pace, difficulty and overall experience. We met other trekkers who had done an 8-day trek, but we found their route cut out some of our favorite vistas.

Short Huayhuash Treks (4-7 days)

Also known as Mini Huayhuash Treks, these shorter routes intend to provide trekkers a sort of “best of” sample of the Cordillera Huayhuash in a shorter period of time. These routes tend to focus around Lake Jahuacocha or Lake Carhuacocha and cross over several 4,000+ meter / 13,000+ feet mountain passes. Although not as challenging as the full Huayhuash Trek, these treks still require prior acclimatization in and around Huaraz.

Note: If you don’t think that you have the time, physical endurance or strength to do one of the Huayhuash Treks, consider one of the Santa Cruz treks in the nearby Cordillera Blanca. As we understand, these treks still include stunning scenery but are shorter and less physically demanding.

What to Expect on a 10-day Huayhuash Trek: Day by Day

Note: The itinerary outlined below is the one that we took. Although the route is the same, some of our campsites and overnights may differ slightly from some of the classic 10-day Huayhuash Trek itineraries. Together with our guide, we decided to adjust the itinerary so that we would climb up to San Antonio Pass on the morning of Day 7 vs. the afternoon of Day 6. This meant that we spread out the campsites after that a bit differently and did not have two nights at Lake Jahuacocha — a deliberate itinerary adjustment which was preferable to all of us.

We calculated distances and times using an exercise app. While fairly accurate, there may be some small differences than if we'd used a more sophisticated GPS device.

Day 1: Drive from Huaraz to Matacancha (4,150 meters / 13,615 feet)

This is a driving day (7 hours) from Huaraz to get you to the trailhead so that you ready to start hiking the next day. You go through some beautiful scenery, including some overlooks with views of the Cordillera Huayhuash and a drive over the Cuncush Pass (4,750 meters/15,580 feet).

Day 2: Matacancha – Cacanan Pass – Mitucocha

Once at the trailhead, you’ll have time to unload all the gear, learn how to set up your tent, enjoy views of Mount Rondoy (5,870 meters / 19260 feet) and eat a hearty dinner before turning in early for the night.

This day begins with a steep zigzag ascent to Cacanan Pass (4,700 m/15,420 ft) which marks the continental divide (all rivers east of it flow towards the Amazon and all on the west flow towards the Pacific Ocean). Enjoy a snack and rest at the top before descending into a green valley where you may find a few vicuñas (related to llamas) grazing high in the hills or vizcachas (animals which look like a rabbit crossed with a squirrel) dashing around.

You’ll also have your first view of some of the snow-covered high peaks of Ninashanca (5,607 m), Jirashanca (6,094 m) and Jiraschanco Chico (5,445 m). The trail continues past the small village of Janca to the campsite near Lake Mitucocha at the foot of Mount Jirashanca.

Day 3: Mitucocha – Carhuac Pass – Carhuacocha Lake

The walk up to Carhuac Pass (4,650 m) is rather gentle and takes around three hours. You’ll be rewarded at the top with the first view of Mount Yerupaja (6,634 m), Peru’s second highest peak and the highest of the Cordillera Huayhuash. On the way down towards Lake Carhuacocha you’ll pass some Incan ruins and another small village.

The campsite is on the shore of the lake and features a stunning panoramic view of the snow-covered peaks of Yerupaja, Yerupaja Chico (6,121 m), Siula Grande (6,344 m) Jirashanca and Jirashanca Chico (5,446 m).

Day 4: Carhuacocha Lake – Siula Pass – Huayhuash

Wake up before sunrise, grab a cup of coca tea and climb to the top of the hill behind the campsite to watch the light transform the nearby snow-covered peaks as the sun rises. The reflection of the snow-covered peak in the lake is like a mirror, perfectly still and crisp. Mother Nature puts on a beautiful show as the colors change to pink and orange.

This is a beautiful morning walk that winds its way past the turquoise alpine lakes of Grangrajanca (4,245 m), Siula (4,290 m) and Quesillococha (4,332 m). As you rise in altitude to reach Siula Pass (4,800 m) more layers of mountains and lakes appear.

It’s a steep and rocky ascent to the pass, but you’re rewarded with views of Mount Carnicero (5,960 m), Jurau (5,600 m) and the eastern side of Siula Grande (6,344 m). Enjoy a picnic lunch here before descending to the campsite near Huayhuash.

Day 5: Huayhuash – Portachuelo Pass – Viconga (Hot Springs)

The day begins with a relatively easy ascent to Portachuelo Pass (4,750 m). Enjoy a snack at the top with views of the snow-covered mountains of the Cordillera Raura. The descent is long and steady, passing through green valleys filled with wildflowers and perhaps a llama, alpaca or two.

The Viconga campsite is at the foot of Mount Cuyoc (5,550 m). This campsite is the one place along the trek where you'll have an option to bathe.

Note: There are several hot spring pools near the campsite. We highly recommended you enjoy them thoroughly, both to bathe and to relax your muscles in the warm water. There is a small pool for washing with soap and then two other pools to soak in once you’re clean.

Day 6: Viconga – Cuyoc Pass – Pampa Cuyoc

This relatively short day includes Cuyoc Pass (5,000 m), the first of the trek’s two 5,000+ meter mountain passes. This is a relatively long switchback ascent through rocky, high desert terrain. The panoramic views from the top are spectacular and include a sort of “best of” the Cordillera Huayhuash, including Jurau, Sarapo (6,127 m), Siula, Yerupaja, Rasac (6,017 m), Tsacra (5,548 m) and Huacrish (5,622 m).

Descend to Pampa Cuyoc at the base of San Antonio Pass (5,050 m) for lunch and a relaxing afternoon. There are optional short hikes to nearby hills for anyone who still wants to stretch their legs.

Note: Many itineraries include an optional climb up to San Antonio Pass on the same day with an overnight at Huanacpatay campsite. Together with our guide, our group opted to hike up to San Antonio in the morning when the skies were clearer and we had more energy.

Day 7: Huanacpatay Valley – San Antonio Pass – Huayllapa Village

Begin this day with a steep climb up the scree and rocks to San Antonio Pass (5,050 m), the highest pass of the trek. Take your time at the top to enjoy the best viewpoint of Mount Siula Grande (of “Touching the Void” fame) and nearby alpine lakes. You may also spot a few condors flying about, searching for prey.

Descend the same way and continue on the trail through a series of green valleys and cultivated fields to Huayllapa village. After you set up camp in one of the school fields, enjoy a walk through the village.

Note: this is the only set of shops and services you will come across on the trek. Someone in our group had his hiking shoes repaired here as one of the soles had begun to fall off.

Day 8: Huayllapa Village – Tapush Pass – Gashpapampa Valley

Leaving the village behind the trail takes you up to a high plateau that rises gradually up to Tapush Pass (4,800 m). You’ll have glacier-covered Mount Diablo Mudo in front of you for much of the way up to the pass. Views over Lake Susucocha (4,740 m) are revealed at the top. Enjoy the wildflowers, birds and views of the Cordillera Blanca in the distance as you descend into Gashpapampa Valley for the night. Once you reach camp, bundle up since this was a pretty cold night and morning for us.

Day 9: Gashpapampa Valey – Yaucha Pass – Cerro Huacrish – Jahuacocha Lake

Each time you think that the views and the moment can’t get any better, they do. Take it slow and enjoy.

The day begins with a slow and steady scree-covered ascent which takes you up to Yaucha Pass (4,850 m), the final high mountain pass of the trek. As you come over the pass you have an incredible panoramic view of Cordillera Huayhuash’s highest peaks, decked out in glaciers and snow-covered. Talk about dramatic. Keep your eyes out for condors here as well.

Continue on to Cerro Huacrish with another beautiful view to both the giant peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash on the right and Cordillera Blanca and Huallanca on the left. Just sit and take it all in. Finally, as you descend towards Lake Jahuacocha you’ll reach another ridge that overlooks the turquoise lakes below surrounded by mountains.

There is one last very steep descent through pastures and grazing cows to get to the campsite near the shores of Lake Jahuacocha. Watch how the light and the reflection on the lake of the surrounding mountains changes throughout the day.

Since we had free time in the afternoon we did an optional hike out to Solteracocha Lake (3.6 miles / 5.8 km) that took two hours. Climb up to the rim above the lake and just enjoy the deep turquoise color of the alpine lake and the surrounding snow-covered peaks.

Day 10: Jahuacocha Lake – Pampa Llamac Pass – Llamac Village – Huaraz

This is the last day of hiking and although it isn’t as dramatic as the day before, it's still pleasant and features a relatively easy walk out to Llamac Village. You’ll be able to catch one last view of the Cordillera Huayhuash peaks from Pampa Llaman Pass (4,300 m) before descending through villages and high desert to the village. The vehicle will be waiting there to take you back to Huaraz (about a 5-hour drive).

Best time to do the Huayhuash Trek

The trekking season in the Cordillera Huayhuash and Cordillera Blanca begins mid-to-late May and runs until September. This is the dry season and also considered “Andean summer.” The high tourist season is July and August. During this time you'll have clearer weather, but the lack of rain means that the mountains will dry and brown throughout the season.

We did our trek mid to late May; we felt it perfect timing. We had a bit of rain at the very beginning of our trek, but the mornings were clear and the rains only usually began in the afternoon after we'd already set up camp. After a few days, the rains stopped altogether and we had perfect weather.

Because it was still early in the trekking season, trails and campsites were not crowded. Mountains remained green and lush since the rainy season had just ended.

If you can time it, try your Huayhuash trek during the shoulder season from mid-May to early June.

The low and rainy season is from October to April with the highest rain in January – March. Many high passes are still snowed in from December to March, so that that might make it impossible for trekkers and the donkeys to be able to pass. There is also the risk of landslides during this time which might wash out the trails and hillsides. There have robberies of independent trekkers during this time as are alone with no other people around, so it's not recommended to trek independently in the off season.

Because of all this we recommend timing your trek between May and September or early October.

Huayhuash Trek Difficulty and Conditions

The following information is based on our own personal experiences on a 10-day fully-supported Huayhuash trek. Support included a trekking guide, cook, donkey wranglers, and a team of donkeys to carry our gear, camping equipment, food and trash.

We added information for independent trekkers where available.

Huayhuash Trek Difficulty

We’d categorize the difficulty of the 10-day Huayhuash Trek we did as medium-high, leaning more on the high side of the range. This is because of its daily high mountain pass crossings (4,000+ meter/13,000+ feet), sleeping at high altitude and distance.

Don't let the elevation frighten you away. Our trekking group included people from their late 20s to a 74-year-old (who had both knees replaced within the last three years). We all had prior experience hiking and doing multi-day treks, but none of us were hard core mountain climbers. We'd all simply done our acclimatization treks in and around Huaraz — that's what makes the difference.

While this implies that special training is not required for the Huayhuash trek, you ought to be relatively active and in good physical shape before taking it on. You should be either be accustomed to or prepared for multi-day treks with steep, slow uphill climbs at high altitude.

Not a Technical Trail

The classic Huayhuash trek we did was not technical. To do it, we didn't need special equipment (e.g., climbing ropes, crampons, or other mountain climbing fittings). We do recommend using walking or trekking poles, however. They provide stability and balance and take some of the pressure off your knees and joints, especially on the steep descents.

Huayhuash trekking trails in the mountains are well-maintained and for the most part are relatively easy to follow. There are a couple of streams or rivers to cross, and depending upon the time of year you may need to take your shoes off or consider using river sandals. That’s all part of the fun.

Dealing with Altitude on the Huayhuash Trek

You will reach some high altitudes during the Huayhuash trek. The highest point on our trek was 5,050 meters / 16,570 feet at San Antionio Pass. Each day, we crossed mountain passes ranging from 4,000 – 5,000 meters / 13,000 – 16,500 feet. And, we were often sleeping around 4,000 meters / 13,000 feet. Understanding how your body responds to altitude and how to best manage your response to it is important for your enjoyment of this trek.

At altitude, our advice is to take it slow and steady on the uphill. Our guide, Edgar, was a hiking zen master at this – he would start our group out slow in the morning, especially if we had a steep ascent, so that our bodies could wake up and adjust. If you think you’re going ridiculously slow, then it probably means you are at the right pace. Trekking is like meditation The slower you move, the more likely you are to enjoy what's around you. And the more successful you will be.

It’s better to proceed deliberately and slowly with fewer breaks than to move quickly and wear yourself out so that you need to recuperate with frequent and longer stops. At high altitude this is even more important in order to avoid getting sick and to maintain your energy levels.

In addition, drink LOTS of water as your body needs more liquids at altitude. I would usually drink a liter of water at breakfast before we even began walking, just to have a bit of “hydration reserve.” It’s recommended to drink at least two to three liters a day at high altitudes like this.

Note: If you really suffer from altitude sickness you can also consider taking Diamox. We have avoided taking it by using natural methods (e.g., water, walking slowly, etc.), but we do know people who have benefited from taking it in small doses. Be sure to talk with your doctor first about its side effects, including the additional water you must drink when taking it.

Rain and weather conditions on the Huayhuash Trek

We'd been warned about rain because the timing of our trek coincided with the end of the rainy season (mid-May). We arrived prepared with waterproof ponchos, jackets, and pants. Mornings were usually clearest and at the beginning of our trek, it rained during a couple of afternoons. But we didn’t find the the weather a hindrance to our enjoyment. Only once on the trail were we forced to pile on all the serious rain gear. All other times, the rain arrived only after we'd set up camp, which included a waterproof dining tent.

Carry a waterproof cover for your day pack. Protect any valuable electronic gear like smartphones or cameras in a dry bag or multiple Ziploc plastic bags. All our gear was carried by donkeys, and all the bags were wrapped in multiple layers of plastic tarp to protect them from rain. In addition, we packed our clothes, sleeping bags and other important items in an additional layer of plastic bags.

If you are trekking independently and carrying all your gear with you, you must carry a good waterproof cover for your backpack and use Ziploc or other waterproof bags to keep everything dry inside in the case of heavy rain.

Note: If you monitor weather forecasts and apps, we recommend you consider taking them with a grain of salt. For us, forecasts for the Huayhuash (Ancash) mountain area predicted alpine weather armageddon right up until the moment we began our trek. Reality turned out to be quite different (see the photos). For those of you who book a Huayhuash trek and are freaked out by weather reports — just as we had been — and you find yourself tempted to cancel, seriously reconsider. If you book with a trekking company, as we did, check in with them for a bit of a local weather report reality check.

Food Along the Huayhuash Trek

If you do a fully-supported trek as we did, there's absolutely no chance for you to go hungry on the Huayhuash trek. Our group had its own cook and he created some incredible meals for us using a simple camping kitchen and limited ingredients.

On most days we were served three full meals, with lunch and dinner usually each consisting of 3 courses (e.g., soup or salad, main dish and dessert). On days where the schedule and route was a little tighter, we were given sandwiches as a picnic lunch.

Each morning we we were given bags of treats (e.g., chocolate, quinoa bars, biscuits, fruit, etc.) to ensure we never got hungry on the trail between meals. We always had a mid-afternoon tea and snack break at the campsite. There were always treats and surprises each day.

If you are vegetarian or have food restrictions (e.g., gluten, dairy, etc.), alert your trekking company and guide in advance so they can prepare accordingly.

Independent trekkers will need to carry and cook their own food, of course. There are a few big grocery stores in Huaraz that can supply you with basic ingredients, but if you have a specific type of camping food or brand that you prefer then you should probably bring that from home. Please clean up after yourself! We saw too many empty discarded cans of tuna and other food containers along the trail. That's just rude and disrespectful.

Clean Water Along the Huayhuash Trek

We were provided ample amounts of clean water (i.e., boiled for a certain period of time to kill germs) each morning by our cook and the support team. This is what we drank throughout the day as we walked. Our goal was to drink a minimum of two to three liters of water each day.

Of course, there are lots of mountain streams where you can gather water to drink throughout the trek. We carried water purification drops with us in case we needed to use water from a stream or other source. We never had to use them because clean water had already been prepared for us.

Huayhuash Trek Campsites and Sleeping Arrangements

You’ll be camping and sleeping in tents throughout the Huayhuash trek. There are no real homestays or other sleeping options, except in Huayllapa where there are some family guest houses. We slept in two-person tents (provided by the trekking agency). Although these tents were not huge, we had enough space to sleep and position our belongings on the edges of the tent.

By the time we arrived at the campsite each day, our tents were usually already set up for us by the support team. We were very thankful for this little bit of luxury after a long day of hiking.

Local communities manage the campsites along the different Huayhuash trekking routes. This community-based system is relatively new. It used to be that trekkers could pretty much pitch their camp anywhere, and for free. Understandably, local people got a bit tired of people using their lands, and often not cleaning up after themselves. Communities weren't seeing any financial benefit from tourism development in the region. A system was then set up to compensate the local communities for use of their lands and also to help share some money and benefit from tourism and trekking growth.

Campsites are still pretty basic and located in remote areas, so don’t expect services or shops. In general, you’ll find a place to pitch tents and an outhouse (or two) on the edge usually consisting of a drop toilet or a toilet bowl without water. With the exception of the hot springs near Lake Viconga on Day 5, there is no running water at the campsites. Expect to trek without showers. (Note: if you are on a fully-supported trek like the one we took, you will likely be provided a bowl of hot water in the morning for washing.)

Each community collects a fee from each person (usually $3-$8/person) who stays at a campsite and uses its facilities. You’ll often find an individual or family visiting early in the morning to collect the money. You’ll receive a receipt for your payment.

We heard stories of some trekkers trying to arrive late or pack up early to avoid paying these community camping fees. Just don’t. It’s disrespectful and it creates problems between trekkers and local people, making it difficult for future visitors wishing to enjoy the area.

Organizing a Huayhuash Trek

A Huayhuash trek can be done either independently (e.g., without a guide) or through a trekking agency (e.g., fully supported with a guide, cook, assistants, donkeys to carry gear, etc.). Decision factors include your trekking experience and physical shape, skill at reading trekking maps, budget, weather, and preference. Let's examine these.

Hiking the Huayhuash Trek Independently

Although you won’t see trail markers along the route you can usually pick up trails pretty easily based on their use by trekkers, donkey trains and local shepherds. This means that if you have a lot of experience doing multi-day treks, reading trail maps, using a GPS and hiking at high altitude then you should be able to safely do the Huayhuash trek independently.

Some advantages of trekking Huayhuash independently including being able to create and adjust your own route and setting your own pace. The cost will be much lower as you are not paying for a support team, guide, etc. However, you should still stay at community campsites and pay the required fees so as to respect local people and local community regulations.

However, there are some other considerations. Trekking independently means that you’re carrying all your own camping gear, food, clothing, and more. Since the only real village with shops is Huayllapa, you should expect to carry 7-8 days of food with you. All of this weight adds up and can get heavy, especially when you’re going over a 5,000+ meter / 16,500 foot mountain pass. We saw some trekkers struggle with their packs and the extra weight.

In addition, we also met some trekkers who were lost as they thought they were following one circuit, but ended up on another. Our guide would usually help to steer them in the right direction or offer a short cut to help them get back on track. While this may not sound like a big deal on the surface, it can be quite stressful when you only have a limited amount of food with you and the weather around you is changing as the day wears on.

For more on trekking Huayhuash independently check out this guide.

Choosing a Huayhuash Trek Tour

Given the length, distance and high altitudes of the Huayhuash trek, we knew we wanted to do it supported – with a guide, cook, support team, donkeys to carry our gear. Our goal was to enjoy the walk, including the stunning mountain landscapes and being immersed in nature without worrying about getting lost, carrying all our gear, or struggling to cook or set up our tent each night.

We were and are thrilled with our choice.

Having a local trekking guide provided us with the peace of mind that we were always on the right path. (Some of you may remember, we have a history of getting lost in mountains).

Our local guide, Edgar, knew everything about the Cordillera Huayhuash from leading trekking and mountain climbing groups there for over 17 years – all the local legends of the peaks around us, wildlife, birds, flowers, natural medicines, and more. As he was Quechua he could also provide context and information about indigenous culture, growing up in the mountains, and changes he’d witnessed over his lifetime.

While doing the Huayhuash trek independently may save you some money and allow you more flexibility in route and pace, our experience proved to us beyond a doubt that the benefits of doing a supported trek with a guide, cook, support team and donkeys far outweighs the costs.

Choosing a Huayhuash Trekking Agency

If you do as we did and work with a trekking agency for a supported Huayhuash trek, the next step is trying to figure out which trek to choose based on the route, level of comfort, budget, and schedule you're looking for.

Booking a Huayhuash Trek in Advance

Because we had a limited window of time to do our 10-day Huayhuash Trek we needed to book our trip in advance. When I began to search around and contact different trekking agencies in Huaraz I found that prices varied quite a bit and could be very expensive, especially if there wasn’t an existing group departure for the dates I wanted.

A bit discouraged, I continued to search, focusing on trekking companies which already had existing trek departure dates that fit our schedule. That’s when I found Quechuandes Travel and Adventure Agency recommended on some traveler and trekker forums and their open group departures calendar (usually on their Facebook page).

Jackpot!

They had a departure date for the 10-day Huayhuash trek we wanted to do during our limited time window. From the first communication with Marie, the co-owner, I was impressed by the transparency of information, pricing and details. I also appreciated that she was explicit that the price was the same whether we booked in advance or as a walk-in. And, we felt that price was fair to all parties — to us, to the company, and to the guides — from the beginning.

We paid a deposit (50%) to secure our spots for that departure date (Note: Transferwise offered the best rates for this international wire transfer so if you’re new to the service use this link to get a free $500 international transfer). The remainder we paid in cash when we met in person in Huaraz a few days prior to the trek departure.

Another thing that impressed me about Quechuandes were the materials they sent in advance. They focused on sustainable tourism — the environment and conservation, being respectful of local culture, understanding local socioeconomic issues. You could tell that this information was not copied from the internet, but created after years of experience working with the local communities and in these mountains.

Regardless of which operator you choose to take you on the Huayhuash Trek, select one which works with local guides and support staff, pays fair wages, and operates in a responsible and respectful way towards the environment and local people.

Booking a Huayhuash Trek in Huaraz

If you have a flexible schedule, it’s also possible to book your Huayhuash trek directly in Huaraz, the city which serves as the base for all treks in Cordillera Huayhuash and Cordillera Blanca. There are heaps of trekking agencies around, many with signs outside indicating upcoming trek departures and availability.

You can walk around, meet with different trekking agencies, ask about price and services, and then make a decision. If the price sounds too good, it might be. Ask questions to be sure of what you’re getting for your money. We witnessed other groups on the trail whose food options appeared limited and whose tents and donkeys looked worse for wear.

It’s worth it to spend a bit more for the comfort of a trained guide and cook, and to know that the staff are receiving fair wages and the animals are well cared for.

As the Huayhuash Trek has become more popular these last years many departures are already filled up so you may not be able to get on the trek for the time period you'd like. So if you have any sort of limited schedule it's best to book in advance.

Price of a Huayhuash Trek Tour

Current (2019) costs for for the 10-day Huayhuash Trek with Quechuandes (minimum of 5 people in the group) is $70/day or $700 for the full trek. The maximum group size was eight persons. Given the level of support and service we received we felt this was a very fair price, and it was much lower than many other similar trekking agencies.

The tour and price included:

• private transport to the trailhead (Matacancha) and from the end (Llamac)
• a certified mountain guide, cook, muleteer (donkey handler), and assistant
• donkeys to carry gear (up to 8kg per trekker), food, cooking equipment, etc. + emergency horse
• food, snacks and clean water
• 2-person tent and sleeping mat. If you wanted a private tent, that was an additional fee

The tour price did not include sleeping bags or community campsite fees (approx. 200 soles/ $60 per person for ten days). I rented my Marmot down -10 C sleeping bag from Quechuandes for 20 soles/$6 per day ($60 total). Dan was able to borrow a sleeping bag from a friend in Berlin, but otherwise he would have rented one from them as well. It is essential you carry a proper alpine sleeping bag on this trek.

Renting Trekking and Camping Gear in Huaraz

You can arrive in Huaraz without any trekking or camping gear and be outfitted with all that you need pretty quickly either through renting or buying. Quechuandes, the trekking agency that we used, rents out a large selection of gear (that’s where I rented my -10 C down Marmot sleeping bag). Many other trekking agencies offer the same.

In addition, there are quite a few shops in town specializing in trekking gear where you can buy new or sometimes even used clothes or other items. A couple on our trek bought used fleece jackets and waterproof pants from Huaraz all of which served them well.

Leaving your luggage behind during the trek

Most accommodation and tour operators/trekking agencies will allow you to leave your big bags or luggage with them for the time that you're doing the Huayhuash trek. We left our big backpacks at the hotel in Huaraz we were staying at prior to the trek and then picked them up on our return. Although we haven't heard of any problems with luggage and theft, it's always best to securely lock your bags for their time in storage.

Acclimatization hikes around Huaraz before the Huayhuash Trek

Especially if you’re coming from sea level (e.g., Lima) or low altitudes, it's a wise (if not essential) idea to spend a couple of days acclimatizing in Huaraz (3,050 meters / 10,000 feet) and doing a few acclimatization day hikes. This means hiking to a higher altitude during the day and then sleeping at lower elevation at night (e.g., Huaraz).

For the Huayhuash Trek with its daily high mountain passes, at least three acclimatization hikes are recommended prior to setting off. Marie from Quechuandes essentially told us we had to do a minimum of three acclimatization hikes before starting the Huayhuash trek. This may sound a bit extreme, but we get it. She’s trying to ensure that trekkers identify any problems they may have in advance and be sure they are fully prepared so they can mitigate risks and enjoy the trek to the fullest.

In fact, we met a group of women on an 8-day Huayhuash trek who did not do any acclimatization treks. They were hurting the first couple of days and looked miserable. Don’t do that to yourself. Don't sabotage your trek for the sake of saving a couple of days. It's a poor decision. Altitude sickness is no joke. It’s not fun and it can become very dangerous. It’s better to take the time to acclimatize properly before departing on the long trek. Not to mention, the acclimatization hikes are all pretty fabulous and enjoyable in their own right.

Marie sent us this list of suggested acclimatization treks. After talking with her we chose the following acclimatization day hikes to help prepare us for the Huayhuash Trek.

Lake Wilcacocha Acclimatization Hike

Distance: 11.9 km / 7.4 miles
Walking time: 3.5 hours
Max elevation: 3,700 meters / 13,140 feet

This is a simple and easy hike near Huaraz. It's a good one to begin with. It features a steady incline for a couple of hours along a dirt road until you reach Lake Wilcacocha at the top. The lake itself is not particularly impressive, but there is a nice overlook so you can get a feel for the countryside around.

To get there, take the Route 10 or Route E collectivo (public bus) from near the Huaraz central market (corner of Raymondi and Hualcan streets). It costs around 2-3 soles ($0.60-$0.90) per person. Let the driver know that you want to get off near Laguna Wilcacocha. After getting off the bus, cross the small bridge and you’ll see a sign at the trailhead.

Lake Rajucolta Acclimatization Hike

Distance: 16.6 km / 10.3 miles
Walking time: 5 hours, 20 minutes
Max elevation: 4,270 meters / 14,010 feet

This is not one of the typical acclimatization hikes, but it came recommended by Marie. We really enjoyed it. It’s a nice walk that isn’t too difficult at the beginning, but increases in difficulty as you climb up to the lake. Mount Huantsan, the 3rd highest peak in the Cordillera Blanca (6,395 m / 20,980 ft), guides the way and serves as a stunning backdrop to Laguna Rajucolta.

There were no other hikers on the trail the day we went. We and two other hikers going on the same Huayhuash trek as us had the whole place to ourselves, with the exception of a few shepherds and their flocks of animals. Highly recommended.

The Laguna Rajucolta hike requires private transport with a 4×4 vehicle to get there and back as the roads get rough after turning off the main road. The drive takes around 1.5-2 hours from Huaraz. We hired a driver through Quechuandes for around 220 soles ($66) for the entire car (4-5 persons). He dropped us off at the trailhead in the morning and then waited for us all day to return.

Laguna 69 Hike

Distance: 13.8 km / 8.6 miles
Walking time: 4 hours, 45 minutes
Max elevation: 4,600 meters / 15,090 feet

This is one of the more popular day hikes in the Huaraz region, and for good reason. Located in Huascaran National Park in the Cordillera Blanca, this hike climbs up to Laguna 69, a beautiful alpine lake with Mount Chacraraju (6,112 meters / 20,052 feet) as a backdrop. The views on the path up are also pretty stunning and spectacular. Be sure to allow and take time to look around and enjoy them. There are some challenging, steep ascents. But, that’s also what makes it an excellent acclimatization hike and preparation for the Huayhuash trek.

The easiest way to organize the Laguna 69 hike is to buy a “tour” in Huaraz that essentially includes bus transportation with a guide. We bought ours from Quechuandes for 35 soles / $10.50 per person and had an early morning 5AM pickup at our hotel. You’ll stop for breakfast along the way. If you don’t have a packed lunch with you already, your breakfast stop is also an opportunity to buy lunch for the hike. The entrance fee for Huascaran National Park is 30 soles / $9 per person.

Where to stay in Huaraz

There is certainly no shortage of places to stay in Huaraz. We stayed at El Jacal Classic before and after our trek. It is located a few blocks from the main square and downtown area, so it is both conveniently located and quiet. Request a room that is not at the top of the stairs as it can get a bit loud with people coming and going. Breakfast is served on the rooftop, which has a great view.

If you are hiking with Quechuandes they also offer the Quechuandes B&B now for clients that looks like a great option for staying in Huaraz before and after your trek.

They are accustomed to trekkers, so it's no problem to leave your luggage there when you're off in the mountains.

What to pack for the Huayhuash Trek

Check out our full Ultimate Trekking Packing List with all the details on what to bring with you on a day or multi-day trek like the Huayhuash Trek (or anywhere else). However, we offer a customized Huayhuash Trek packing list to ensure you have what you need, yet don't overpack.

We suggest you ask your trekking agency and perform some independent research about the temperatures at night during the time of your trek. This will determine how many layers you'll need to carry and the weight your jacket(s). For example, temperatures dipped to -10 C / 14 F during a couple of the nights and early mornings on our trek so we were very thankful to have extra layers of long underwear, fleece and more.

As mentioned above, tents and sleeping pads were provided by Quechuandes.

Clothing

You really don’t need much in this department. Don’t worry about packing clean clothes for each day, as everyone is just wearing the same thing or repurposing the same clothes each day. Here’s what we suggest:

• 1-2 pairs of trekking pants: We're both been using Clothing Arts Travel Pants (for men and for women) as our go-to trekking pants these last few years. They hold up well on multi-day treks in terms of hiding dirt, drying quickly, not getting stinky. We find the additional secure pockets useful on treks for keeping phones, money, tissues and other things handy.
• 2-3 short-sleeved t-shirts: Preferably quick-dry or regular cotton (his and hers quick-dry t-shirts).
• 1 long-sleeved travel/trekking shirt: This is useful not only as a layer of warmth in the chilly mornings when you first start hiking, but also as protection for your arms from the strong sun (his and hers).
• Hiking shoes: We both recently shifted to wearing Oboz Sawtooth hiking boots. The insoles and support for your feet are really good, and the shoes are sturdy and can stand up to some tough terrain. In addition, Oboz plants a tree for every pair of shoes sold so you can feel good that your purchase is going towards reforestation and environmental projects. Men's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy at Backcountry | Women's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy at Backcountry
• 1 set of evening clothes for dinner and sleep sleep: T-shirt, long pants (or pajama bottoms), socks. To ensure these remain dry, pack them in a plastic bag or other impermeable container inside your backpack.
• Underwear: Usually one pair for every day of the hike. Here are recommended men's boxer shorts and women's underwear
• Hiking socks: I love SmartWool hiking socks as my first pairs lasted me almost seven years of heavy usage. If you prefer a thinner sock check out their ultra-light line. I often wear a sock liner together with wool hiking socks.
• Bathing suit: For the hot springs on day 5 of the hike.
• Fleece jacket: For cool nights or sleeping (can double as a pillow, too).
• Waterproof rain jacket: For this trek I upgraded to a NorthFace Climatech technology waterproof jacket and I love it. It not only provided protection against the rain and cold, but the jacket material is very breathable so it didn't feel like a sauna inside when I used it. Highly recommended.
• Waterproof poncho: This long backpack poncho goes over you, your backpack and most of your legs so it really provides great protection from the rain.
• Waterproof pants: Pick up a pair of light pull-on biking waterproof/water resistant pants. They fold up into a small bag so they barely take up any room or weight in your backpack, but keep you quite dry when the clouds open up.
• Light down jackets: These can be stuffed into a tiny cinch bag and are so light that you can carry them with you in your day pack. We used these for warmth and comfort at night when temperatures drop. Dan loves his seamless ultra-light down jacket from Uniqlo.
• Flip-flops or river shoes: These are useful for the evenings when you want to get your feet a break from hiking shoes or you need to run to the outhouse in the middle of the night. Women's River Shoes | Men's River Shoes

Other Trekking Gear

• Sleeping Bag: This needs to be comfort rated to at least -10 C / 14 F. I rented my heavy duty down sleeping bag from the trekking agency, Quechuandes. If you are looking to buy a sleeping bag for your trek, one of the guys in our trekking group used this North Face 3-in-1 One Bag Sleeping Bag and found it warm enough and comfortable. Dan was looking at this Hyke & Byke Eolus 0 Degree sleeping bag before one of our friends lent him one to use. It was recommended and seemed like a good price.
• Refillable water bottle: Bring with you 1-2 refillable water bottles and/or a water bladder so that you always have at least one liter of water on you at all times. You'll be able to refill your bottles with clean water in the morning before you leave for the day and when you get to camp in the afternoon. If you really want to play it safe consider carrying with you a SteriPEN or sterilization drops.
• Trekking poles: We highly recommend using trekking poles for this trek, especially for the steep downhill sections. We'll usually share one walking stick set of two so each of us uses one stick. However, most people in our group used two poles each. This set of travel-friendly walking sticks fold up easily for luggage and assemble quickly when on the trail.
• Waterproof backpack cover: You never know when a rainstorm will hit, so it’s essential to keep a rain cover for your backpack close at hand. We also put electronics and other items in plastic or zip-loc bags inside the backpack as a extra protection for them.
• Quick-dry travel towel: To dry off after showers, and also after a swim. Hang it on the outside of your backpack in the morning so it dries quickly in the sun and air as you move.
• Silk sleep sack: To provide an extra layer of protection and warmth between you and the sleeping bag.
• Headlamp: None of the campsites have electricity so a headlamp is essential for finding your way to the toilet and to sort through your stuff at night in your tent.
• Silicone earplugs: A precaution in the case your camp has a snorer.

Toiletries and Health Kit

You'll have access to hot springs to bathe on day 5, but for the rest of your trek you'll receive a small bucket of hot water either first thing in the morning or in the evening to wash your face and other basics.

• Soap, toothbrush, toothpaste and dental floss: The basics.
• Sunscreen: The higher the SPF, the better. You're at high altitudes for most of this trek where it's much easier to become burned. Keep applying sunscreen.
• Sunglasses: At high altitudes the sun is super strong so go for sunglasses that will protect your eyes vs. be fashionable.
• Hand sanitizer: To be on the safe side, especially for lunch and snacks on the trail.
• Pack of tissues: You will be provided with a roll of toilet paper, but it’s always a good idea to carry a pack of tissues in case of messes, spills or emergencies.
• Duct tape: Very effective for hot spots and blisters on your feet. Also consider picking up some Compeed, which is magic when you already have blisters.
• Medical Kit (for emergencies): Band-Aids, anti-bacterial gel (for cuts), rehydration powders, ciprofloxacin/azithromycin (or another medication against stomach bacteria), Tylenol (anti-headache/aches), Immodium (or some sort of “stopper” if you get diarrhea), tea tree oil (great to apply to mosquito bites) Note: all these are easily and inexpensively purchased at local pharmacies, including in Huaraz from where you depart for the trek.

Electricity and Charging Batteries

None of the campsites have electricity. Prepare yourself for not having access to electricity during the trek. Some tips to handle this and further your battery power.

• Put your smartphone on airplane mode. There is no connectivity along the trek anyhow, so don't waste your phone’s battery power trying to find a network.
• We brought a solar powered power bank and used it to charge our smartphones, when necessary.
• Consider buying a phone case that doubles as an extra battery. Here’s an example for our iPhone X battery case. It provides another 1-1.5 charges.
• Take an extra camera battery or two.
• Don’t spent time reviewing your images on your phone or camera, as this will drain your battery power quickly.

Conclusion: Huayhuash Trek, A Trek of a Lifetime

Yep. For us, there's no way to oversell our experience on the Huayhuash Trek. During the trek, we felt the kind of deep decompression we feel whenever we head into the mountains on a long walk. The sense of accomplishment — individually and shared with a group of fun people — is profound. The memories, as we write this piece and flip through one stunning, astounding image after another, are still fresh.

All that's left now is for you to give it a try. Any questions, ask them in the comments. And if you decide to do it, let us know how you get on.

The post Huayhuash Trek, Peru: All You Need to Know About Hiking in the Cordillera Huayhuash appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Are you interested in traveling to Brazil, but only have a limited amount of time? Maybe you have a couple of weeks and you feel overwhelmed by Brazil's size and variety of destinations. Don't worry, we've been there. That’s why we created this Brazil Experiential Travel Guide to get you started in organizing and planning your own trip.

Early in our around-the-world journey, we spent fifteen months traveling through Latin America, but we never made it to Brazil. How did we miss the largest country on the continent, the fifth largest in the world?

Short answer: we ran out of time. Real answer: we psyched ourselves out thinking we must experience Brazil all at once. Given Brazil’s size and diversity, we understood it could take months or even years to travel and fully explore. So we put off a visit, waiting for that perfect timing, our minds darting back often to how we might approach it.

Recently, we decided: Brazil, now’s the time. We embraced the “you don’t need to do it all at once, but choose wisely” approach.

Take a ride on Brazil's southern coastal highways and you'll find roads and towns engulfed in lush, flourishing green, and jungle that opens to dazzling seas and beaches. Marvel at vast swathes of savannah, forest and rivers throughout its inland tropical wetlands. No matter the level of development and modernization across the country — and there’s plenty across its cities, towns and infrastructure — nature appears poised to reclaim.

Against the backdrop of that nature exists a cultural diversity and expression shaped from Portuguese colonial rule, the African slave trade, and waves of immigration and internal migration. This forms the foundation on which we began to understand the country – not entirely, yet deeply — in a short period of time.

If, similar to us, you've wondered how to approach this vast and diverse country with a limited amount of time, this guide is for you. The goal: to inspire ideas of things to do in Brazil, places to visit, and how to engage so as to make the most of your own travels in Brazil.

Brazil in two weeks, from Rio de Janeiro to the Pantanal: An Experiential Guide

For those of you who love maps — as we do — here is a visual of the first two weeks of our route through Brazil on the Wonders of Brazil tour with G Adventures.

Rio de Janeiro, 1-4 days

1. Take the Corcovado Railway and enjoy Rio from above, at Christ the Redeemer

What really struck me most about Rio de Janeiro when we first arrived were its natural features – dramatic mountains, urban rainforests, and long stretches of white sand beaches. Human life, including downtown skyscrapers and densely populated neighborhoods are tucked between Mother Nature’s crevices and cliffs.

We took the Corcovado Railway through the thick rainforest of Tijuca National Park, a place remarkable for both its lushness and size. Tijuca, an urban rainforest, was the result of a massive reforestation project from the mid-19th century when the city realized that the deforestation due to coffee plantations and coal mining had dried up some of the city's main water sources. A reminder not to mess with Mother Nature and her delicate balance.

Christ the Redeemer, the 30-meter high Art Deco statue atop Corcovado mountain, overlooks it all, embracing the city.

The view from the top is remarkable. I found myself wondering how all this may have appeared to colonialists upon their first arrival in the 16th century. Something must have struck them, too. Rio de Janeiro was the country’s capital for almost 200 years; its cultural significance and atmosphere still hold sway.

2. Visit the Planeterra Favela Experience in Vidigal and challenge your perception

You may wonder: “Can a ‘favela tour’ ever be ethical and respectful?” It's important to ask that and other difficult questions when it comes to tours in favelas or other marginalized communities. To find our own thoughts on the matter, we interacted with a Favela tour in Rio and met community members and leaders.

When tourism and tours are developed from and by members of the community, respectful engagement is possible. A community-focused approach enables immersive experiences shaped by local culture, stories, people, and life — just as it did with the one we experienced with Planeterra Foundation and its local partners Favela Experience and Favela Inc.

Local community leaders and organizations create and deliver the favela tour. The experience zeroes in on respect, sharing and cultural exchange. Positive impact is amplified economically and socially since the money stays local and benefit is accrued throughout the community.

Though no one experience will by itself dissolve the otherness of a favela, this one helps. It does so by swapping the story of poverty and danger with the story of human beings making their way — creating, working, living — for themselves and their families.

3. Immerse yourself in Rio’s urban art

Street art and urban art installation fanatics will find no shortage of inspiration in Rio de Janeiro (and elsewhere in Brazil). Across Rio's neighborhoods — from back alleys in the favelas to formal street art public galleries — you'll spot colorful street murals carrying socio-economic, cultural and political messages.

Perhaps no installation better illustrates how public art can impact neighborhoods and urban development than the colorful Selarón Steps at the edge of Rio's Lapa and Santa Teresa neighborhoods. A 20+ year private art project of now deceased Chilean artist Jorge Selarón has transformed a once marginal neighborhood of Rio into one of the city’s most visited sights.

Featuring tiles from over sixty countries, the Selarón Steps are living art history, a community project maintained by local artists in honor of the original project’s inclusive vision.

Ilha Grande, 2 Days

4. Hike Pico do Papagaio (Parrot Peak), the highest point of Ilha Grande

Ilha Grande, just a few hours’ drive and ferry ride from Rio de Janeiro, was a former leper colony and then high security prison (until 1994). Nowadays, the island is open to the public. It's also a car-free natural reserve whose development is restricted, meaning that you won't find any big resorts or development. And that's a good thing.

One of the best ways to appreciate the span of the island’s beauty and also that of Brazil’s southern coast is to climb Pico de Papagaio (Parrot Peak), Ilha Grande’s highest peak. Many people choose to do this as a summit-at-sunrise hike, setting off at 2:30 AM to reach the peak in time for sunrise over the ocean. (Note: Several people in our group did the sunrise hike with Sunrise Pioneers and had a great experience.)

Some of us, however, enjoy an occasional good night's sleep on the road (yes, guilty!!) and question the trade-off between that sleep and a nighttime jungle hike with headlamps. We opted to set off for our hike just after 8AM from Abraão (Ilha Grande’s town center) and reached the peak some 2.5-3 hours later after four miles uphill through thick, steamy jungle. We poked around, took in gorgeous views and watched vultures and frigate birds circle somewhat ominously overhead.

We may have missed the colors from sunrise and the nighttime jungle experience, but the mid-morning views were still spectacular. No regrets.

Note: If you do choose to hike Pico do Papagaio during the day, get an early start and carry lots of water. The heat and humidity intensify noticeably as the day progresses. This impacts comfort and the summit view due to increasing haze.

5. Relax from your hike on a tranquil (and nearly empty) beach on Ilha Grande

Our original post-hike plan was to take a boat taxi to Praia de Lopes Mendes on the opposite side of Ilha Grande. However, by the time we inquired about transport possibilities in the early afternoon it was already too late because boats were no longer headed in that direction.

We literally missed the boat. We were discouraged and disappointed.

However, we quickly discovered the jungle trails eastward from the main port area of Abraão. They allowed us to easily hop from one laid back beach to another. We sampled a few beaches along the way and settled on Praia Comprida.

Completely surrounded by jungle it felt like our own private, tropical retreat. Besides an enterprising local caipirinha salesman (who churned out cocktails from his own cooler and perhaps sampled too much of his own product), only a sprinkling of other beachgoers were about.

The water was the perfect temperature for a long swim, float or lounge. We relaxed our muscles, watched the caipirinha guy drink all the cocktails he failed to sell, and knew we’d found the place we hadn’t really been looking for after all.

6. Devour a local moqueca on the beach

A Brazilian moqueca is a hearty stew usually made with a combination of coconut milk, palm oil, relatively mild seasoning and fish, seafood or a blend of the two. On Ilha Grande, the local moqueca specialty was made with roasted bananas (moqueca de piexe con banana-da-terra). Although that combination may sound odd — particularly to the banana-averse like me – the contrast of rich savory and sweet was delicious.

A note about Brazilian food portions and serving sizes: In a word: HUGE. Many restaurants will list dishes as serving two people (or sometimes three to four people). Prices are accordingly — and sometimes shockingly — high. As a rule of thumb: take the number of people the menu indicates the dish will serve, then double that (i.e., a dish for two will usually feed four people. Strategize and order accordingly. We found single portions (that is, meant to feed one person) usually featured more than enough food to feed the two of us.

Paraty, 2 days

7. Wander the preserved Portuguese colonial cobblestoned streets of Paraty

Frozen in time, Paraty is. As one of Brazil’s oldest port towns dating back to the late 16th century, Paraty has seen the rise and fall of the gold, slave and coffee trades over its time. Its own fate and prosperity has proceeded accordingly. Thanks to a near abandonment of the city in the early 20th century, its preservation offers a living gallery of 17th to 19th century Portuguese colonial architecture. Streets run in large cobblestones and are punctuated with colorful doors, windows, and decorations. You’ll see how and why Paraty remains a traveler favorite.

The old town is laid out in a grid, making for easy wandering. If a particular street seems too busy for you, just head one or two streets away and you’ll likely have it all to yourself. Although Paraty’s streets are laid back and sleepy during the day, they come alive at night as street musicians and artists take up their acts on every corner.

8. Experience Samba da Benção, the samba night free-for-all on Paraty's main square

Samba is a Brazilian type of music and dance whose West African roots run deep. Heavy in drums and rhythm, samba makes it hard to stand still as the beat makes its way inside you. If you’re timing is good, catch Samba da Benção, the Monday-night Paraty samba dance party on Praça da Matriz, the Paraty main square. It’s free, but donations are kind…and keep the music and party going.

It starts from 8PM. Musicians come out in force, and locals and visitors get their dance on well into the night. The moves are serious, but the attitude not so much – all seem to come as they are.

If you don’t experience samba in Paraty, be sure to ask around along your journey. You'll find samba somewhere – and it will be an important stitch in your understanding of the tapestry and psyche of Brazil.

9. Soak up a lazy beach day at Trindade Beach

Trindade, an easy public bus ride from Paraty, is a favorite beach spot for locals and travelers alike. Walk the three or four beaches connected by jungle trails and determine which one fits you best in terms of atmosphere, crowds, waves and shade. From the town, we walked Praia do Meio all the way to Piscina Natural da Caixa d'Aco, which we found crowded and murky.

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Our favorite beach: Praia do Cachadaço. Why? It was huge, relatively empty, surrounded by lush jungle and home to some big trees perfect for shade. In other words, the ideal location from which to ponder the world during a day at the beach.

You can also do as we did by taking ten steps from your towel and grabbing a seat at the low key beachside Restaurante Caiçara. Then, finish and cool the day off with a bowl of açaí from the café across the street from the bus stop before you return to Paraty.

Iguazu Falls (Brazilian and Argentine sides), 2 days

10. Take in the vastness of Iguazu Falls from the Brazil side

When it comes to waterfalls we often find ourselves skeptical. “Big, beautiful waterfalls!” can often translate to the reality of a far away trickle.

Not so, Iguazu Falls (Foz do Iguaçu). Remarkable, vast, powerful, wide. Humbling. Evidence of Mother Nature’s grip of beauty and power. And a restorer of the promise of a waterfall.

From the Brazil side of the falls (they are shared with Argentina), you can truly appreciate the vastness of Iguazu — or Iguaçu in Brazil, a word derived from a Guarani indigenous root meaning “big water” — the largest network of waterfalls in the world. So large are they that a 90-120 minute walk is flush with panoramic views.

BONUS: Enjoy watching the coati, an animal which looks like an anteater cross-bred with a raccoon. You’ll see coatis all along the trail, especially when food is nearby. Do not feed them, however, as they are already too accustomed to human food and contact.

11. Get up close with Iguazu Falls from the Argentine side

While the Brazilian side of Igauzu Falls provides perspective on their vastness, the Argentine side allows you to get up close to admire — and feel — the sheer power and size of these falls. The network of walking paths throughout the park are really well done and interpreted, taking you through forest above and under slightly smaller falls. Several of the overlooks bring you very easily right next to some of the largest falls. Spend some time; you'll feel the power of rushing water right next to you as you cool off in its mist.

Cap your visit to Iguazu Falls by going into and under them aboard a speedboat. There’s no better way to feel the full force of the falls. The cool water feels excellent, and a full dose negative ions and thrill puts everyone on a natural high. Our boat went three or four times into the falls, with our group cheering for more each time we emerged. We were soaked through by the end and had perma-grins on our faces.

Although we took a similar boat ride nine years ago when we first visited Iguazu Falls in Argentina, this ride was worth the revisit. We would do it again. It’s that much fun.

Bonito, 1-2 days

12. Drift-snorkel through the clear waters of the Rio da Prata

Snorkeling a river?

When our G Adventures CEO (tour leader) told us the river would be crystal clear and full of fish, we had our doubts. Yet, snorkeling in the Rio da Prata at Recanto Ecologico near Bonito exceeded all expectations. Spectacular.

The experience of a drift snorkel down a river, whereby you swim down the river with the satisfying assist of the current, is something remarkable. No video can do it justice, but we share our brief one as a taste.

Book this snorkeling experience at Rio da Prata here.

The Pantanal, 2 days

13. Go wildlife tracking and bird spotting on a late afternoon boat ride in the Pantanal

Although not as famous as Brazil’s Amazon further north, the Pantanal — the largest inland wetlands in the world, stretching from western Brazil into eastern Bolivia and Paraguay — is also one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots. Home to more than 650 known species of birds and to the greatest concentration of wildlife in South America, this vast area of seasonally flooded savannah, tropical forests, grasslands and rivers is bustling with life, most of it imperceptible to humans.

For us, the most enjoyable method to get amongst it in the Pantanal: a late afternoon boat ride with a local guide. Just as the game of “who can spot the most birds?” began, we soon lost count. We encountered so many species – of kingfishers, herons, cranes, cormorants, storks, and toucans – and in such quantity, that is was imperative not to count and click, but rather to enjoy.

Pedro, a self-taught birding and wildlife expert who’d lived his entire life in the Pantanal, was our guide. His ability to spot and identify birds near and far in the distance was stunning. As he explained, any time he’d see something unfamiliar to him during an outing, he’d do his research — until he was familiar with just about every species in the Pantanal. His passion and admiration for birds and wildlife – still after all this time – is genuine and contagious. Despite his having encountered these species thousands of times, each encounter unfolds as if it were his first.

The experience of the boat itself, floating atop and within nature, delivered a peace of stillness and reflection.

14. Go piranha fishing…and feed the caimans!

In full disclosure, I’m not much into fishing and really didn’t think this was going to be particularly enjoyable or interesting. However, Pedro had a way of making it so.

Using simple bamboo fishing rods with chunks of raw meat as bait, we threw our lines into the murky river and waited. I expected that we’d leave without catching anything, as is often the case with fishing. Within minutes, however, piranhas were popping up on the lines everywhere. Piranhas are smaller than I'd expected, but their teeth look like they could do some serious damage.

Not wanting to take our catch back with us, we threw the piranhas back. This turned into dinner time for the caimans circling about.

15. Hang out with a family of capybaras and spot an elusive tapir

Encountering capybaras in the wild was a goal of ours in Brazil. We’d been mildly obsessed with these ROUS (rodents of unusual size) since we met Mimi the capybara in Paraguay years ago.

This time, we wished to see them in their natural habitat.

And jackpot!

During our boat ride, we came across an extended capybara family complete with mother, babies, teenagers and aunts. In nature, capybaras look serious, like all business. I suppose we might all be so if we and our offspring happened to be the meal of choice among a range of predators, including caimans, jaguars and eagles.

More than satisfied with the capybaras, our boat had the good fortune to also spot an elusive tapir emerging from the water. Frightened, he scampered onshore and tried to hurry away. Due to his size and clumsy fear, it took him three tries to finally scale a nearby hill of lightly packed sand.

This time, Pedro’s excitement went off the charts. Tapirs are nocturnal, so daytime encounters are quite rare.

Looking at the shape of the tapir, it seems that Mother Nature carries a sense of humor.

If all this is not enough, you’re also likely to encounter howler monkeys, capuchins, and pecarries (pig-like non-pigs) just as we did. Your birding experience will be rounded out by hawks, a spotted owl, macaws (scarlet, hyacinth and even hybrids), in addition to all the other birds we mention above.

16. Chill out at a pousada in the Pantanal

During the Brazilian summer, the Pantanal can become incredibly hot during the day. This means activities typically take place either in the early morning or late afternoon, providing ample time to slow down. What to do with the rest of that time? Enjoy it.

Sleeping or reading in a hammock, listening to the call of the macaws in the trees above, or just doing nothing but taking in the sights, smells of your surroundings quickly turns to calming bliss. (Note: doing nothing is important and under-appreciated.).

Down time will allow you to better process the remarkable experience that is the Pantanal. And it may also deliver some moments which lend clarity to the life you'll return to after your holiday.

Our days were punctuated with an early morning walk through the forest, horseback riding, a boat ride, and an evening a nighttime walk. Everything is taken at a slow, relaxed pace. This is not only good for us as humans. The animals seem to like it, too, and are less likely to be frightened away.

If you really wish to bring it down a notch – or perhaps take it up a notch – avail yourself of the strongest caipirinha in Brazil served up in a tumbler at the Santa Clara Pousada.

One is enough to lend further clarity…or haze. Trust us.

17. Get your Japanese food and sushi fix

“Japanese food in Brazil?” you might be asking. Yes, it’s a thing. Brazil features the largest population of people of Japanese origin outside of Japan, explaining the Japanese influence on the cuisine. The history of this features a fascinating twist you’d be unlikely to guess.

After you’ve enjoyed your fill of traditional Brazilian food — moquecas, steak, salgados (fried, stuffed snacks) – take a dive into Japanese-Brazilian food. You’ll find plenty of the sushi restaurant standards (e.g., sashimi, nigiri, rolls), and a few Brazilian twists where “hot” rolls and combinations are flash fried or seared.

Sushi is relatively and surprisingly inexpensive in Brazil, particularly given the quality.

18. Get your city beach on at Copacabana and Ipanema Beaches in Rio

The name “Copacabana” conjures images of tropical, exotic, luxury, scene-y. Strutting like supermodels. The Copacabana Beach we found was more inclusive and approachable, featuring ordinary people of all ages enjoying themselves on this 2.5-mile long stretch of public city beach. Same goes for Ipanema Beach right next door.

If you visit the beach, you'll have everything you need as vendors make the rounds selling everything from caipirinhas to grilled cheese logs. Frequent visits to the beach seem the ordinary rhythm of life for many in Rio. In fact, Rio's beaches take on a second surge of traffic at the end of the work day as locals drop by the beach for a cocktail, a dip in the ocean and to watch the sun go down.

Not a bad way to end the day. Or, in our case, to wrap our G Adventures tour in Brazil.

Itinerary ideas for one more week in Brazil

If you happen to have a bit more time and are wondering what to do during a third week in Brazil, we recommend taking a look at Salvador, the capital of Brazil's Bahia region, and São Paulo, Brazil's largest city. These destinations offer complements and contrasts to the experiences, culture, nature and places visited earlier. Here's why.

Salvador de Bahia, 4-5 days

Prior to our visit, we knew little about Salvador and Bahia until our friend Barbara, a travel colleague and friend who knew Brazil well, suggested we pay it a visit to round out our time in the country. She explained that Bahia would be very different from everything else we'd seen experienced on our trip.

It turns out that she was spot on.

Salvador, the capital of the northeastern Brazilian state of Bahia, features a long, deep history — one that is evident and in many ways still alive today. Founded in 1549 by the Portuguese as the country's first colonial capital, Salvador also served as the first slave port and market in all of South America. A significant portion of the estimated 4-5 million slaves that were brought to Brazil, mainly from West Africa, were trafficked through Salvador.

Today, Salvador and Bahia are considered the epicenter of Afro-Brazilian culture. An estimated 80-90% of the population are descended from African slaves, and much of the music, spirituality, and cuisine that arrived with them has been passed down through the generations. Adding further complexity, some of this culture and style blended with indigenous and European traditions. What you encounter on the streets is colorful, vibrant, and lively.

All of this history, together with the backdrop of 16th-19th century Portuguese colonial architecture in Salvador's old town, has earned it UNESCO status. In fact, Pelourinho, the name of the neighborhood which forms the heart of Salvador and its old town center, is the Portuguese word for pillory, a kind of whipping post once used in the main square to punish slaves. A clear sense of local cultural pride in the Afro-Brazilian culture, music and cuisine — formed in part as a resistance and response to hardship — stands in contrast to this harsh reminder.

Our visit to Salvador happened to coincide with the season of preparation and practice just prior to Carnaval. As Salvador features the largest Carnaval celebration of its kind in Brazil, this is a serious affair. We were fortunate to take in “blocks” — or groups of musicians and performers — coursing through the street of Salvador, working out the rhythm and moves of their routines. That and arriving on the day of the Festival de Música e Artes Olodum, meant that the sound of drumbeats and voices echoed through the colonial streets from early morning to well into the night.

Salvador street art, from graffiti to full-on murals — impressed us, too. Works were striking, provocative, colorful, cultural, and reflected some serious artistic skill. Salvador featured some of the best street art in all of Brazil, really.

Our recommendation is to walk around Pelourinho, keeping your eyes open for street art and murals lining side alleys or wrapping around corners. Continue up the hill along Rua do Carmo to Largo do Santo Antonio, perhaps stopping at Cadê Q'Chama? for a hearty moqueca baiana, a traditional coconut milk and seafood stew. Make a big loop back to Largo do Pelourinho, wandering and drifting freely to admire the art and also the Art Deco architecture, much of which is in a state of revitalization.

When you've had your fill of the city's sights and sounds, head out to the beach for a few days. Bahia's most famous beaches like Itacare and Ilhaus seemed a little too far away for us for the couple of days we had. We did, however, enjoy a couple of chill days at Stella Maris beach, in the far north suburbs of Salvador.

São Paulo, 2 days

Although São Paulo doesn't feature the same allure and beauty as Rio, we still wanted to visit Brazil's biggest city before leaving the country. With limited time there, we decided to focus mainly on street art, the Vila Madalena neighborhood, some more sushi and a fresh market or two. We used Jenna's delightful guide to São Paulo to help us plan our remaining time. Her husband's family is from São Paulo, so her guide offers the perspectives of both a visitor and local.

Were our timing better, we would have booked a walking tour with Andre to explore the the older parts of São Paulo and to learn more about its history and development. Although we didn't experience this tour ourselves, we're confident to recommend it. We were able to meet Andre one evening — he's passionate about his home city and has the bearing of a thoughtful yet humorous guide. He also kept us well fed by steering us towards Tanuki Restaurant in Vila Madelena (excellent sushi!) and Mercado Municipal de Pinheiros, whose flea market center is ringed with fun restaurants and bars.

Visas to Brazil

Fortunately, visas to Brazil have recently become easier than they once were for many nationalities. Travelers from EU countries can travel visa-free for up to 90 days. And from June 17, 2019 citizens of the United States, Canada, Japan and Australia will enjoy visa-free travel to Brazil. Win-win.

If you do need a Brazil visa before this change of legislation, then you can get an e-visa here for around $44. It’s a pretty straightforward process requiring that you upload a copy of your passport and a photo, then fill in an online form. We received a response within a few days.

Safety in Brazil

We were told that safety has improved in many cities and locations in Brazil. Places that are popular with travelers are often patrolled and thus quite safe, too. We also felt safe taking the metro in Rio and São Paulo. All that said, it's wise to remain diligent, careful and aware of your belongings and surroundings.

We always asked our tour leader, local guides or hotel staff for advice. If there was any doubt, we would take a taxi or Uber instead of walking, even if the distances were not particularly long. We'd also heard stories about taxis being problematic — ripping off or robbing travelers. So we always took either an Uber or an official, authorized taxi at the hotel. [Note: Uber in Brazil is great for travelers – easy to book on the app, no money is exchanged as you can pay by credit card through the app, and we always felt safe with our drivers. We also met some interesting people along the way.]

If we were highly recommended to avoid a particular area, then we did so. For example, when we arrived in Salvador there was a huge music concert festival underway on the main square. Our guest house host told us to avoid the crowds because of pickpockets and theft — something that's common to huge throngs of partiers and concert-goers no matter where you are — so we enjoyed watching the concert from our balcony instead.

Transportation around Brazil

Brazil is huge — truly. Even though something may look close on the map, be sure to verify the distance and time on Google Maps or similar. For example, we took a 12-hour bus between Iguazu Falls and Bonito. According to our map, we'd barely moved.

Especially if your time is limited, domestic flights are worth considering to avoid spending all your time on a long-distance bus. The internal flights on our G Adventures Wonders of Brazil tour were included as part of the tour. However, we also booked one-way flights from Rio de Janeiro to Salvador, then Salvador to São Paulo — with Avianca and Latam, with generally good results.

We used Skyscanner to understand all flight possibilities and options, including those from low-cost airlines. When we booked our flights directly on the Avianca Brazil website we found that the cost in Brazilian Reals was considerably less than the cost in USD. So, it's wise to do a quick calculation comparison between currencies to be sure you’re booking in the currency featuring the lowest cost.

Buying a SIM card in Brazil

If you're a foreigner, you'll need to go to one of the official mobile phone company shops to register your passport and personal details when you buy a mobile SIM. We chose Claro as it was recommended to us for having good coverage. Their shop was also convenient to the hotel area in Copacabana, Rio. We've also heard that TIM and Vivo are good options for staying connected while traveling in Brazil.

The registration process to buy the SIM takes some time as employees must fill in forms and scan your passport. Allocate about 45-60 minutes for this initial process. After that you can recharge your prepaid plan at most pharmacies and grocery stores around the country. We ended up choosing a weekly data plan that cost 14.99 Rs ($3.75) and included 2GB. It worked pretty well throughout the country, but we just had to remember to recharge our plan just before it expired each week.

The post Brazil Experiential Travel Guide: 18 Things to Do, See and Eat + 2 Week Itinerary appeared first on Uncornered Market.

In this piece, we explore the nature and meaning of favelas in Brazil and the ethics of favela tours. Through conversations with residents and community leaders in Vidigal favela in Rio de Janeiro, we consider how community-driven favela tour experiences can create positive social impact and reduce the exclusion and separative otherness of marginalized communities.

“I used to see guides from other places taking travelers around the favela,” Russo, our local guide, said as he began his story at the entrance to Vidigal favela.

“What are they saying about my community if they don’t actually live here? I thought I could be a better guide. This favela is my home. I’ve spent my whole life here.”

We kicked off our recent trip to Brazil somewhat unconventionally with a visit to Vidigal, a favela in Rio de Janeiro. When people hear the term favela, their minds can run exclusively to poverty, gangs, drugs and violence. However, during our Vidigal favela tour with Planeterra Foundation and their local partner Favela Experience, we encountered a more complex story.

We met with community organizations and micro-enterprises that serve as the center point of cultural exchange and engagement for visiting travelers. Together, they create experiences based on local culture, stories, and people. The genesis is deliberately local. So too is the conclusion — with economic and social benefits intended to register first and foremost in the community.

Before we discuss our encounters with residents and leaders of the favela, let's talk about what a favela is, the ethics of favela tours for travelers, and what to look for when choosing a respectful and responsible favela tour.

What is a Favela?

Favela is Brazilian Portuguese term literally meaning “little bean” and roughly equating to “shanty town” or “slum.” It's basically an informal district whose residents have often built their homes in the outskirts of major cities — usually in areas like hillsides — where land was once considered uninhabitable by urban developers.

The first favelas in Rio de Janeiro date back to the late 19th century. After emancipation, freed slaves were driven into the hills because they couldn’t afford to live within city limits. These marginalized informal communities then grew through waves of internal migration (e.g., from other parts of Brazil to cities like Rio de Janeiro and Saõ Paulo), especially during times of economic hardship. A story familiar and universal: people fleeing difficulty at home seek a new life and economic opportunity in the city.

Over time, these once informal settlements became permanent. Shops, restaurants and other businesses emerged to serve local residents. Despite this development, favelas usually remained cut off from most or all government services. Economic opportunities in reality were limited, too, particularly when Brazil's population took off in the 1950s and everyone looked to cities for economic salvation.

Hence, the rise of drug trafficking in the favelas and the corresponding reputation of them as centers of violence and poverty. The temptation from a distance to generalize all favelas as slums — “they're all the same” — is reductive and often inaccurate.

“I want to demystify the favela,” Russo said. “Yes, there are bad things here. But there are more good things.”

When windows open onto neighborhoods once considered off limits, there's an opportunity to shift perceptions from objectified narratives of poverty and danger to the humanized ones of residents making their way.

The Ethics and Evolution of Favela Tourism

If you question the ethics of favela tourism and whether it pedals poverty as an attraction, that's good. Intent and impact of tourism in marginalized areas demands examination — whether those visits take place in the favelas of Brazil, the townships of South Africa, or the slums of major cities in India.

To this point, we asked a few locals in Vidigal what they thought about tours in their neighborhood.

The community representatives we spoke to are generally in favor of developing tourism in their favela. Their support is qualified, however. Tours and tourism must be developed from and by the community — as in local people creating experiences based on local culture and history, and delivering it all under a premise of cultural exchange. The money must stay local, too. Benefit must be accrued throughout the community.

A fair expectation, no?

Unfortunately, most favela tours to date have not unfolded in this way. The first wave of favela tours included tourists voyeuristically peering and taking photos from tour buses, never exiting the bus. “Too dangerous,” they were told by their tour organizers who'd charge them $150 or more for the privilege and quick thrill.

Favela walking tours were the next step. But the first of those were led by guides outside the community. Communities saw little benefit. Tour fees and money exited right back out to the tour companies.

Favela Tours with Social Impact: A New Model

Community-initiated favela experiences defined by and led by residents represent the next evolutionary step in favela tourism. When given the opportunity, local people are proud to show what is different and unique about their communities. That's our repeated experience, anyhow.

Planeterra Foundation partners with Favela Experience and Favela Inc, a social impact incubator in the favela, to identify local community organizations and micro-enterprises to form the core of a traveler's experience in Vidigal. Economic benefit is registered locally. So too is civic and cultural pride.

Interactions and conversations from these experiences will inform and shift your perspective and assumptions, just as they did ours. The result: a slow dissolving of the narrative of “otherness,” poverty and danger and its rightful replacement with the story of human beings.

As Russo explained: “None of my TripAdvisor reviews from travelers are about poverty. Instead, they are about the culture and smiles and life that they experienced here on my tour. It changed their view of people living in poor situations.”

When a traveler books a G Adventures tour in Brazil that includes the Planeterra Favela Experience in its itinerary, a portion of that tour fee is paid to the community partner organization as the lead supplier of the favela tour. The tour money is then divided further so that each of the community organizations and micro-enterprises involved is fairly compensated for their work in delivering the tour experience. This provides a steady and reliable source of income to the local organizations for employment and investment.

Furthermore, a portion of tour fees is invested in training, capacity building and support for new and interested community organizations and micro-enterprises. In this way, tour fees contribute to an ongoing cycle of community growth and sustainability.

Faces of the Favela: The People and Community Organizations We Met

The people we encountered were crucial to our expanded understanding of life in the favela. Together with their organizations and micro-enterprises, they form the network backbone of each Planeterra Favela Experience. For the traveler, they also communicate a kind of living history.

Russo and Vidigal Trilhas

Russo swept his hand across the only entrance and exit from Vidigal, a neighborhood with an official census population of 12,000 whose actual population runs nearly three times that. The neighborhood homescape ranges from modest finished buildings to others in states of mid-construction with unfinished floors, exposed brick and rebar.

Russo shared his story of growing up and spending his whole life in the favela — from a childhood in a simple wooden house at the top of the hill to working in a local shop for much of his early adult life. His stories wend their way through the early days of dirt roads to the paved streets coursing the favela today.

That our experience began with and was framed by Russo seemed appropriate. He was among the first local guides in Vidigal. When he initially noticed guides from outside the community escorting travelers through the favela, he decided, “If they can do it, I can do it too.”

With that idea, he founded Vidigal Trilhas, a local tour company, among the neighborhood's first.

As he saw it, the experience — for visitors and the community alike — could be improved if locals told the story of their community, rather than to have someone else tell it for them.

Along our walk, we came to football pitch and practice area for a local percussion group, Batuca Vidi. It was once the territory of a local drug gang. As Russo tells it, he and his friends worked to build the football field because they wanted a place to play. The pitch then fell into disrepair, becoming a drug hangout once again. He and others sought to restore it once more. In a turn of common interest, the gangs supported them and helped clean and rebuild.

As it turns out, many of the drug traffickers had children who needed a place to play, too.

Through community engagement, the neighborhood evolves.

So did what prospective visitors might see and learn.

Isis and Batuca Vidi

Shortly after our tour began, an energetic young woman named Isis appeared, as if out of nowhere. As we discovered from three unexpected encounters with her during our walk, her energy places her everywhere at once despite her busy schedule.

Raised by her grandmother, Isis began playing percussion instruments when she was nine. The most recent chapter of her story begins when, during one of her practice sessions on the street, five local kids approached her and asked, “Can you give us a class?”

Those five kids became her students. Despite having no instruments, they joined her by playing buckets. Interest grew and impromptu drum classes and jam sessions took place in the streets.

Isis later launched Batuca Vidi, a more formal percussion school aimed at teaching school children both music and dance. Batuca Vidi now has over 30 students, ranging from 6 to 17 years old.

With sponsorship from a Brazilian music company they've also transitioned to real drums and instruments.

Thanks to her self study of English and the social entrepreneurship training provided to her by Favela Inc, she now finds herself invited to share her organization's story around the world as she continues to grow it. When we met, she was about to set off for Grenoble, France to advise a local Muslim youth community interested in following a similar model. Later this year, her students will welcome this group from France for an exchange where they will stay and create music in the favela.

When you meet Isis you see a young woman who navigated difficulty to become a community leader. For her, music played a big role in providing opportunity. She wishes to offer a similar path to other favela youth.

Experiences like this reaffirm that positive ideas can travel the world in fascinating ways. And, we all have a little something to teach and to learn from the world we inhabit.

Paulinho and the Sitiê Eco Park (Ecological Park)

Our path continued to the Vidigal Sitiê Eco Park, on the favela's green edge. When I'd first heard of this favela experience component, my expectations were admittedly low. I was surprised, however — not only by how green and lush this urban forest park was, but also by how much had to be overcome to reclaim the space.

When we met the park steward, a gentle soul named Paulinho, it made perfect sense. He was a positive energy force and a sharer of natural medicine and life wisdom. We learned the story of how he and others removed more than five tons of trash over a three-year period following a 2006 landslide which ran through the area to the main road below, killing several people.

As Paulinho walked with us through the park, he treated us to an impromptu natural food and medicine tour featuring samples of tiny local sweet peppers, healing herbs and tasty greens — all of which demanded to someday appear in high-end restaurant salads. He explained the challenge of changing people's trash dumping behaviors. As he planted fruit trees, vegetables and herbs, he incentivized local people. The deal: don't throw trash here and you can come to the park for free fruit and vegetables. He was not only able to change behaviors regarding trash disposal, but also around respecting and valuing nature.

Paulihno shared a unique philosophy on the park and its role in the community. To him, the park was a place of positive energy. But, he said, it also drew in the negative energy of broken souls. He found that sometimes the down-and-out are attracted to the park, finding solace there. His role was to create a balance between these energies by helping those in need and perhaps even saving a few lives along the way.

“If you protect nature, nature will protect you,” he said.

Messias and Vidigal Capoeira

We met Messias, a master in capoeira — the Afro-Brazilian martial art that involves music, dance and acrobatics. In a training area fashioned on the top floor of a community municipal building, he explained capoeira and its West African slave origins. Once repressed by various forces in Brazil, capoeira is now a national symbol and is used to export Brazilian culture worldwide. An estimated nine million people around the world still practice it today.

Messias founded Vidigal Capoeira as a community organization eight years ago. 80 participants, young and old, are involved today.

“In capoeira circle, everyone is the same; there is no social status,” he explained.

His goal is for students to take this philosophy outside of the classroom and into their everyday lives.

During the favela experience, travelers have the opportunity to participate in a capoeira training session led by Massias' students.

I asked him if engaging with travelers on these tours changed his perspective on capoeira. His response reflected the nature of exchange.

“It’s good for the students. They see firsthand the power of capoeira to bring different people together regardless of country, size or social status.”

Then I asked him what surprised him most.

“They have so many questions for visitors,” he said. “They are curious to know about their countries, where they come from.”

Nilda and Vidigal Beer

After taking in the depth of our favela experience, we landed quite appropriately with a fresh Vidigal Beer on the rooftop of Novo Era co-living workspace, the home of Favela Inc and Favela Experience.

Luciano, the founder of Vidigal Beer, is a self-taught craft beer maker who began experimenting at home, combining traditional brewing techniques with some creative twists inspired from the favela. He and his wife Nilda used the initial investment from the Planeterra project to purchase some new brewing equipment, receive training to professionalize their operations, and to better market the Vidigal Beer brand.

During our visit, we sampled an on-point pilsner, perfect for the Rio summer heat. However, we've heard great things about the Vidigal Beer IPA as well. To get a sense of meaning and scale, the micro-brewery currently produces about 50 liters of beer a month, a sufficient volume for its owners to work and provide for their family.

It was a fitting way to end our visit with a sweeping view above the favela. We looked coastward to Ipanema Beach, a scene whose contrasts underscored that — in Rio de Janeiro and the wider world — we are all connected.

Favela Tour Questions You Might Ask

1) What questions should I ask about a favela tour in Brazil?

When you see a favela tour advertised, don't feel bad about asking hard questions to understand how the tour is organized, who is leading it, and where the money and benefit goes. This will allow you to evaluate whether the favela tour is ethical, respectful and incurs positive impact in the community.

• Who created and organizes the tour? Is it driven from the community itself?
• Who benefits from the tour? How? Do tour proceeds remain local?
• Will I have a local guide? How will I be able to engage with the community and its people?

2) Are Favela Tours Safe?

In general, yes. More and more, community members are aware of tourism and its potential benefits. And when you are guided by someone from the community, it further demonstrates your commitment to contributing positively to that community.

It’s important to note that you may come across drug traffickers, maybe even ones carrying machine guns — graffiti-covered ones, no less — during your experience. It’s important to observe just as we did: they are not concerned with you. Instead, there’s an occasional cat-and-mouse between them and local police who are typically kept at bay with bribes. Admittedly, this encounter placed me outside of my comfort zone and startled me for a very brief moment. However, I never felt threatened.

This is what you learn on your visit.

It’s also important to note that many drug traffickers respect and support social projects. Why? Because their families live in this place. Many of them harbor hope — hope for a future where their nieces and nephews and their own children won't need to be involved in the drug trade because economic opportunities exist in ways they did not when they were growing up in the favela.

3) Do I need a guide to visit a favela?

While it is possible to walk around these neighborhoods on your own, it’s not something we would recommend. The value and benefit of visiting a favela is not about the voyeurism of sneaking a peek, but about the interaction with local community members in a unique way that only a local guide can facilitate. This type of interaction highlights context and understanding about the history and evolution of a favela neighborhood over the decades, and in particular, how its residents approach life, engagement, and community development today.

A thoughtful favela experience like this places you in conversation with engaging community leaders. They are the pace-setters for the favela community. Most importantly, this is their home.

The post A Favela Tour in Vidigal, Rio de Janeiro: How to Do One Respectfully and Responsibly appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Argentine steak, empanadas and pizza play a big role in the country’s cuisine, but there’s much more to food in Argentina. From asado (barbecue) to the stew-like national dish of locro, our Argentina food guide offers an extensive list of traditional dishes, European-influenced Argentine food favorites, desserts and wine. And it’s drawn from our travels across Argentina for four months, including meals in family homes, cafes, wineries and restaurants.

When I think about my first contact with the concept of Argentine cuisine, I recall a discussion twelve years ago with an unassuming foodie friend in San Francisco.

“I bet the food in Argentina is great!” I offered with blind optimism as visions of gauchos stepping to a tango beat danced in my head. Argentina seemed so damn far away; therefore the food must be exotic and varied.

My food-wise friend brushed off my enthusiasm without skipping a beat, “Yeah, if the only thing you like is steak and wine.”

Twelve years later Audrey and I arrive in Argentina to find out for ourselves about its food.

Four months traveling in Argentina, we have some experience. We have some answers about Argentine food, but a few questions linger:

Did the spice trade ever make it to Argentina?

What happened to the vegetables?

Can man live on steak alone?

Let's dig in.

Note: This post was originally published on August 18, 2010 and updated on November 4, 2018.

Argentine Steak: How to Choose and Order

Man cannot live on steak alone, no. But a steak a week is an easy pull in Argentina. And since steak is such an important part of the cuisine in Argentina, it garners its own section.

Argentine cattle are grass fed (in contrast to more common grain-fed beef typical in the U.S.). As a result, Argentine beef is not only a better taste experience, but also an easier digestive experience. To boot, Argentine steaks are charcoal grilled on a parrilla (i.e. a giant grill; parrilla is also the word used to denote grill-style restaurants).

Although Argentine steak is rich and flavorful enough on its own, that doesn't prevent most restaurants from offering chimichurri, an olive oil and spice rub sauce to pick things up even more. In our opinion, when the meat tastes this good on its own, there's no need to dress it up with any sauce.

Steak servings in Argentina are typically large, tipping the scales at 400 grams or almost one pound a portion. So it's not a faux pas to share one steak between two people at a restaurant.

To balance out the meal, we typically ordered a salad to go with our steak. We always left satiated, but not overly full. If you are ravenous or eating in a larger group, consider ordering a provoleta (a small round of herbed, grilled cheese) as an appetizer to kick things off.

A few tips to navigate an Argentine steak restaurant and menu:

Typical cuts of meat in Argentina:

• bife de lomo (sirloin) – a very lean cut and usually the most expensive. Our favorite choice.
• bife de chorizo (strip loin steak) – fattier than the bife de lomo, but some prefer it because it's juicier.
• matambre (flank steak) – more fat and less expensive, still.
• vacio (London broil)

How to order your meat cooked in Argentina:

• jugoso – rare (literally translated as juicy). This is what we would recommend. Actually muy jugoso, or very rare, is what we usually asked for.
• a punto – medium rare
• bien cocido – well done

Traditional Argentine Food

Mixed Asado (Traditional Argentine barbecue)

Argentine asado, the sacred weekend barbecue ritual of Argentine families, goes well beyond steak. The grill and cooking style used is similar, but an asado selection might include other cuts of beef, sausages, mollejas (thymus glands) and other offal, pork, and chicken.

If you are not fortunate enough to have Argentine family to hang out with like we did, you can find asado plates offered at most parrilla restaurants.

Many hostels also offer an asado dinner option once or twice a week. Another approach: crash a village cowboy/gaucho festival like we did.

Locro (Traditional Argentine Stew)

A dish hailing from Argentina's Andean northwest, locro is like a stew or soup filled with grains, meat, vegetables and corn. What some might consider the traditional national dish of Argentina, it’s a hearty, heavy comfort food.

Milanesa (Argentinian Schnitzel)

Milanesa sits atop many “typical Argentine food” lists. A milanesa is a pounded piece of chicken or beef breaded and fried or baked. Milanesa can be considered an Argentinian version of schnitzel, the traditional dish you'll find across Central Europe.

Milanesa is a common lunch menu item and is usually served with fries or potatoes, or slapped between bread to make a sandwich. Considering we had eaten milanesas for months during our travels throughout Latin America — from Guatemala on south — we admittedly didn't often seek it out while snacking in Argentina.

Empanadas

Empanadas, the ubiquitous Latin American savory turnover. Flaky or doughy, empanadas come stuffed with just about anything: spinach, cheese, acelga (Swiss chard), mushrooms, ground beef, chicken, even seafood.

On balance, Argentine empanadas are usually baked. You'll occasionally find them fried, especially in the north. Empanadas are the perfect traveler food — they are cheap, quick, high comfort and often oozing with cheesiness.

Argentina's Salta region claims the best empanadas. We agree.

Salteña empanadas are smaller and tastier; there's something special about the dough. Salta also gets extra points for serving their empanadas with a hot sauce. Outside of Salta, we recommend packing your own bottle of hot sauce heat. The flavor of a homemade hot sauce can often transform a mediocre empanada eating experience into something bordering delicious.

Keep your eye out for empanadas arabes (literally, Arabian empanadas) stuffed with cumin-herbed ground meat and lemon rind. When done well, they offer a new set of flavors to wake up tired taste buds in Argentina.

Tartas

When you think Argentine tarta, think quiche with less egg and more filling. Our favorite Argentinian tartas included tomato/mozeralla/ham/basil, mushroom, pumpkin/squash, and zucchini. Tartas can also offer a safe bet for vegetarians traveling in Argentina.

One small tarta (typically 4-5 inches across) was usually rich and filling enough to feed the two of us for lunch. Have the deli where you purchase your tarta heat it up for you, find a park bench nearby and enjoy a picnic lunch.

Italian Specialties in Argentina

Argentine Pizza

Pizza in Argentina typically falls into one of two categories: thick crust “pizza de molde” and thin crust “a la piedra (stone-cooked).”

No matter its classification, we found most pizzas in Argentina erring on the side of thick crusts, scant tomato sauce (one example featured an after-thought teaspoon of sauce in the middle of the pie) and and loads of cheese.

Pizza aficionados, manage your expectations.

We offer two recommendations when ordering pizza in Argentina:

1) Ask for extra sauce on your pizza. Yes, you will look the crazy tourist for this one but who really cares if it improves your eating experience.

2) Order the Napolitana pizza which features sliced tomatoes on top. This way, if the sauce is non-existent, the tang from the tomatoes will help to balance the rich, fatty mounds of cheese.

Other things to try at an Argentine pizzeria:

– Fugazetta: Pizza crust covered (or sometimes stuffed) with sweet onions. Depending on the version, fugazetta resembles focaccia or stuffed white pizza. No tomato sauce involved.

– Fainá Argentina (Farinata): A thin flatbread made from chickpea flour. It’s often served in addition to (or on top of) a slice of pizza, but we preferred to eat it separately.

Argentine Pasta, Ravioli, and Sorrentinos

Thanks to a profound ethnic Italian influence, Argentina features fresh pasta shops offering ravioli and their oversized brother, sorrentinos, on almost every city corner. Although there's no shortage of Italian restaurants in Argentina, we often opted to buy fresh ravioli from the grocery store or deli (shockingly inexpensive) and cook it ourselves at home.

Argentine Desserts and Sweets

Medialunas (Argentinian Croissants)

Although usually eaten in the morning, medialunas (small croissants) are often sided with coffee throughout the day. Medialunas (literally “half moons”) come in two broad categories – grasas (salty) and manteca (slightly sweet). When you find a good medialuna, you'll know it instantly: it melts in your mouth.

Perhaps the best medialunas in all of Argentina were made known to us thanks to a distant relative baker (Audrey's mother's cousin's daughter's husband…if you figure out the term, let us know) in La Falda. Unfortunately, we can't remember the name of the place, so just ask someone in La Falda which medialuna is so good it will bring tears to your eyes.

Dulce de Leche

Dulce de leche (literally “sweet of milk”), is a caramelized liquid made from thickened, sweetened, boiled cream. While many find it overly sweet, we enjoyed it. If you don't enjoy the stuff, you may have a difficult time navigating desserts in Argentina and the roster of Argentine sweets.

Alfajores in Argentina

When it comes to alfajores, we prefer simple and traditional: two shortbread style cookies stuffed with dulce de leche and maybe rolled in a bit of shaved coconut.

Alfajores come in oodles of varieties, including chocolate-dipped. Although the Havanna cafe chain is well-known for its alfajores, we found their cookies a bit dry and airy, a little off in the way of density.

Our favorite alfajores: Cachafaz. These cookies are sold at corner kiosks for a little more than $1. They may not look like much from their packaging, but looks can be deceiving. The cookie crumbles just right and the dulce de leche filling is adequate. It is so rich, you can share it by cutting it into tiny pie-like wedges.

Rumors are that Cachafaz was founded by the original owners of Havanna so they could maintain the tradition of their original alfajores after selling the original business. We have no proof of the validity of this tale, but it strikes us as a good story.

Gelato (Argentinian Ice Cream)

Argentina fortunately takes its ice cream cues from Italy. Heladerias (ice cream shops) hail on every other corner, making it far too easy to pick up a hand-packed three flavor half-kilo container of gelato on your way home from dinner.

Argentina Wine and Drinks

Wine Tasting in Argentina

We won't cover Argentine wines in depth here because we address wine tasting at wineries in the major Argentine wine-producing areas in the following articles: wine in Mendoza, wine in Cafayate and Patagonian wine.

However, a solid, locally-fit red wine varietal like Malbec is just about as perfect a pairing as you can get with a nicely grilled Argentine steak. It's as if they were made for each other.

If wine is of interest to you, it's worth seeking out wine bars in Buenos Aires, Mendoza and other cities where you can undertake a series of Argentine wine tastings and learn about the different varietals and characteristics of each of the country's wine-producing regions. In addition, you can find very drinkable Argentine wine at grocery stores or wine shops throughout the country for $5-$10. This approach provides an excellent and cost-effective method to taste and explore wines in Argentina.

Mate (Argentina Yerba Mate)

Mate is the general name for the strong tea made from infusing yerba mate (dried tea leaves) in a water-filled gourd (technically called a mate) and drinking the result through a bombilla (like a metal straw with a sieve at the end). Audrey remembers taking swigs of mate from her Argentina-born grandmother's bombilla when she was young and thinking, “Wow, this is bitter.”

While we enjoyed the social element of mate — passing around the gourd and methodically refilling the water inside — we didn't particularly enjoy the taste of mate itself. This is just a personal preference. Millions of people adore mate, so try it for yourself and come to your own conclusion.

Argentina Restaurant Recommendations

The following are a collection of our recommended restaurants and eating experiences from the four months we spent traveling around Argentina. So as to not overwhelm this article, we published a separate article devoted entirely to our Buenos Aires restaurant recommendations.

Restaurants in Puerto Iguazu (near Iguazu Falls)

Colors Restaurant on Av. Córdoba 135 looks touristy at first glance, but it served up our most memorable bife de lomo in Argentina. The owner took us back into the kitchen and allowed us to choose our cut of meat. The price for a 400 gram steak, bottle of Reserve Malbec, substantial arugula salad and sparkling water: around $20.

Restaurants in Salta

Casona de Molina on the corner of Luis Burela and Caseros Streets. A “2-person” asado — with its variety of meats and sausages — is truly enough for four hungry people, runs $15. Empanadas are also top notch.

Note: Thanks goes to Leigh and her family for introducing us to these Salta restaurants.

Restaurants in Cachi (Salta region)

The Cachi wine bar and cafe stands about 10 meters down the hill from the church. Their empanadas combine a blended cornmeal crust with goat cheese filling to put them at the top of our list. The accompanying homemade salsa is pretty fantastic, too.

Restaurants in Cafayate (Salta region)

Casa de Empanadas: 12 kinds of empanadas, from four-cheese to chicken, made fresh to order. Vegetarians will love the wide variety of veggie options. We paid a daily visit during our stay in the town of Cafayate.

Alfajores Calchaquitos: Near the main square on Catamarca 253. For some reason, this alfajoreria (we're aware this is probably not a word) does not sell traditional alfajores. Despite this, the chocolate alfajores are pretty exceptional.

Restaurants in Bariloche

Almazen: A delightful little restaurant (20 de Febrero #40) specializing in daily specials like chicken curry or ravioli with cherry tomatoes and forest mushrooms. Some of the most unique and fresh food we found in Argentina. The lunch menu features about 8-10 specialties while the evening menu is focused on tapas dishes. Highly recommended.

Mamushka Chocolates in Bariloche: Much of the chocolate we found sold in stores throughout Argentina was waxy and not very good. But, Bariloche makes up for that with a main street dotted with chocolate shops. Though each chocolateria has its specialty, our overall favorite: Mamushka.

Gluten Free Eating in Argentina

If you have celiac disease or a gluten intolerance there's good and bad news about Argentine food. On the positive side, one of the main specialties of Argentine cuisine — steak — is naturally gluten free. On the negative side, all those empanadas, pizzas, and pastas are not.

To help you navigate Argentine food so that you can eat gluten-free and feel confident about not getting sick check out this Latin American Spanish gluten-free restaurant card created by our friend, Jodi. This card explains in detail, using local food names and language, your needs as a strictly gluten free eater so that you get the meal you want and need. (Bonus: This card is sized for your smartphone and it can also be used in any Spanish speaking Latin American country, from Mexico to Chile.)

Jodi has celiac disease herself so she understands first-hand the importance of being able to communicate gluten-free needs in detail and educate waiters and restaurants on what this means in practice. She created her series of Gluten Free Restaurant Cards in different languages to help celiac and gluten-free travelers eat local with confidence, and without communication problems or getting sick.

Note: These gluten free restaurant cards are not part of an affiliate plan or a way for us to make money. We are extremely fortunate that we can eat everything, but we've seen the challenges of others who are celiac or have food intolerances where every meal can potentially make them sick or cause pain. These detailed gluten free cards were created to help prevent that from happening and make eating out when traveling fun, enjoyable, and safe.

Variety in Argentine Cuisine

By this point, you are probably wondering, where's all the bad food?

There isn't anything bad about food in Argentina, but there just isn't a lot of variety (e.g., compared with Peruvian food). Let's just say that after a couple of weeks, eating Argentine food can feel like hanging out at a piano bar with One-note Charlie.

And what about those vegetables? They are there, but someone seems to be hiding them, for Argentina certainly has the capability to grow just about anything.

And the spices? They are there too. But the European-dominated palate seems to have flattened any of the highlights carried down the cone from the Andes.

That said, if you do believe man can live on steak alone then it's time to book your tickets to Argentina.

The post Argentina Food: A Culinary Travel Guide to What to Eat and Drink appeared first on Uncornered Market.

When readers ask, “I’m traveling to Colombia. What should I do? Where should I go?” We’re left wondering how we’ll keep it short.

Because Colombia is so huge and diverse and serves so many different styles of travel, the answer is: it really depends on what you’re after.

To help (us and you), we created this experiential guide to travel in Colombia. It follows the sequence of our three weeks in the country. For any particular entry, maybe you like the image, perhaps the activity grabs your attention, or maybe both.

Our intent is to offer some diverse inspiration and practical advice to round out your Colombia itinerary, to help you add a new destination to it, or to give you the building blocks to create your own from scratch.

Vamos!

Note: Some of our trip to Colombia was traveled independently and for some of it we were hosted by G Adventures on the Colombia Journey Tour and Lost City Trek Tour.

1. Eat a Breakfast Tamale the Size of Your Head

If you don't think tamales (steamed, stuffed cornmeal parcels) are a breakfast food, think again. When we found these on our first morning in Bogota, shaking off jet lag from our long flights from Berlin, we looked at one another and smiled, “It's good to be back in Latin America.” After one of these, you might not need to eat for the rest of the day. | Find accommodation in Bogota.

2. Enjoy a Cold Beer on Barichara Main Square

Barichara is an almost movie-perfect colonial town in the Santander region of Colombia. It's no wonder that many of our friends and Facebook community suggested we spend some time there to relax. We found no better way of doing so than sampling a few of Colombia's finest brews at a cafe right on the main square and watching the town go about its evening motions. | Find a hotel in Barichara.

3. Trek the Camino Real to Guane

At the edge of Barichara you can find the Camino Real, an ancient indigenous trail that connected all the towns and villages in the region, and follow the path several hours to Guane, another adorable colonial town just down in the valley. It's a good walk and not especially strenuous, but get started early in the day to manage the effects of the blazing sun.

4. Brunch at San Gil Central Market

If a solid, inexpensive breakfast is your thing, the San Gil central market is your place. We enjoyed two cheese-stuffed arepas, two coffees, a huge fruit salad, and fruit shake for less than $4. Local markets like this also serve as the perfect venue to sample Colombia's vast selection of locally grown fruit. | Find accommodation in San Gil.

5. Go Off-Piste in Chicamocha Canyon

Although the park rangers and guards at Parque Nacional del Chicamocha will think you're crazy, there is a way to trek down into Chicamocha Canyon. Walk to the end of the parking lot (after the water park) and follow the path down towards the canyon floor. There is supposedly a village three or four hours down, but we'll never know since we got lost (a common theme with us, you've surely noted). We found the views on this side of the canyon even more beautiful than on the other side where the gondola runs and crowds gather.

6. Face Your Fear of Heights on the Chicamocha Gondola

Chicamocha National Park is best known for the 6km gondola that takes you deep into the canyon and back up the other side of the mountain. It's a gorgeous ride, but can test your nerves if you have a fear of heights. Though entry into the park to enjoy this ride is not cheap ($15) and the park aesthetic is rather commercial, we still recommend it since Chicamocha Canyon is quite beautiful.

7. Eat Breakfast Soup at Villa de Leyva Market

The Saturday market in Villa de Leyva was our favorite in all of Colombia for the diversity of people, produce and morning soups. Although we were frightened at first by the large cauldrons of steaming liquid filled with swirling bits of unidentifiable mystery meat, we asked questions, persevered and enjoyed some of the finest down home soups and food of our trip. Unless you are strictly vegetarian, check out the Mute Boyaca / Santandereano, a fresh corn soup mixed with beans, herbs and bits of beef. Fabulous flavor and the local hearty choice for breakfast.
—Compare rates and book a room in Villa de Leyva.

8. Take a Coffee Tasting Course in Quindio

We've all heard of wine tasting, but coffee tasting? Turns out there is an art and science to it. At Recuca coffee farm we even took a course. We were taught the difference between aroma and fragrance, as well as various flavor profiles and defects found in coffee. Then we were put to the test. The experience was enlightening, and when one begins to ham it up like a false aficionado, a lot of fun.

9. Relax in a Hacienda Jacuzzi (Armenia)

The photo pretty much sums this one up. Let's just say we all enjoyed returning to Hacienda Combia, a coffee farm turned bed and breakfast, after a day of activities in coffee country or Cocora Valley. Order your drink of choice, and sink into a sort of inescapable relaxation. This is inertia at its best.

10. Walk in the Cloud Forest of Cocora Valley

The morning we set off for a walk in Cocora Valley, we looked to the skies of gray, felt a light drizzle and wondered if our day would be ruined. Think again. “Rain is a gift,” Henry, our G Adventures guide would say. High up in the reaches of the Cocora Valley amidst the waxed palms, so true. The mist provided just the right atmosphere and mood. Although our trek took three hours, we're told the typical full Cocora Valley circuit takes 5-6 hours. Highly recommended and a universal highlight of the trip.

11. Watch Old Men Play Billiards in Salento

The town of Salento, what might be considered the developed epicenter of Quindio provice coffee country, is cute. However, it can feel a bit touristy at times. Once you've had your fill of its colorful streets and taken your photos, poke your head into one of the town's darkened billiard halls and you'll get a feel for where the real action is happening, where real life – albeit sometimes very slowly — takes place. Join the local crowds to cheer them on.
—Find accommodation in Salento.

Salento tip: Visit Café Jesús Martín for an excellent cup of coffee and a stash of coffee beans to take back home. Note: We've been told that the town of Finlandia is less touristy — “imagine Salento ten years ago” — if you're looking for alternatives in the area.

12. Take the Cable Car into Hills of Medellin

Medellin's rough and rowdy narco-history reputation precedes it. When you visit, push that aside and take the local metro public transportation across town and prepare to be amazed. The real sense of transformation, though, sets in when you catch the public transportation cable car across the river, up the hill and into what was once one of Medellin's most dangerous neighborhoods, Santo Domingo. Although bullets once flew freely in these parts, it's now quite livable. Have a conversation or two with one of the local children and get their story, too.
— Find accommodation in Medellin.

13. Learn About Pablo Escobar at His Brother’s House

To the dismay of many Colombians, when people think of Colombia, Pablo Escobar, founder of the infamous Medellin drug cartel, still comes to mind. To this end, we took a tour of the old Escobar compound with Pablo's brother, Roberto.

Whether or not it is recommended to do this is highly debated. And after gauging our own response as well as the response of others who took the tour with us (let's just say we all needed a stiff drink afterwards), we understand why. It's complicated. While we do feel it's important to learn about Pablo and the impact that he had on Colombia, it doesn't feel quite right to see money go to people who still revere him.

14. Track Howler Monkeys Tayrona National Park

It's just about impossible to fully comprehend the extent of Colombia's biodiversity. But a jungle walk through Tayrona National Park serves as an excellent start. Easily-spotted bird species, large jungle rodents called agutis, and three types of monkeys (howler monkeys, white-faced capuchins and titi monkeys) frame the visit.

15. Sleep on the Beach at Cabo San Juan

After a jungle walk at Tayrona National Park, there's nothing better than beach-hopping, including to Cabo San Juan beach. As the sun dipped slightly behind the clouds and the edge was taken off the heat, we drifted into a surprising deep slumber on those sands. Fortunately, we overheard someone say, “We should go back in the water” and didn't miss our group departing. And, we managed to get one last swim before we had to turn back for the day.

16. Listen to the Colombian Police Orchestra in Cartagena

The night we chose to have dinner on Cartagena's Plaza Santo Domingo, the Colombian Police Orchestra happened to be in town. You know the culture is different when the orchestra director leads a cumbia step with the crowd between movements. The music — the traditional orchestral bits as well as the adapted pieces — was terrific. The involvement of the crowd, particularly the dancing kids, was infectious and could bring a smile to even the most hardened. Nothing better could sum up Colombian spirit and culture than this.
—Compare rates and book a room in Cartagena.

17. Crash an English Class in Barrio San Francisco

If you have a little extra time in Cartagena and wish to see life at the opposite end of the spectrum from the polish of the core of the old town, consider a tour of the San Francisco barrio with community leader Alex Rocha. Catch a glimpse of life in strato 1 (there are 6 “stratos” or classification levels of neighborhoods in Cartagena and in Colombia, with 6 being the most wealthy), walk through the neighborhood, see the school Shakira built on the hill, and meet some kids in the neighborhood along the way.

18. Float in Totumo Mud Volcano

If you are looking for a fun day-trip excursions in and around Cartagena, the unusual and often laugh-out-loud experience of floating in the Totumo Mud Volcano is absolutely for you. Although the mud volcano pit is supposedly hundreds of feet deep, don't worry. The consistency of the mud, though much like I would imagine quicksand to be, burbles, gurgles and keeps you totally buoyant to the point where full relaxation is required to maintain your stability. Once you're out, local women will help you get all that mud off by scrubbing you down in the nearby lagoon. That's quite an experience, too.

19. Hunt Street Art in Getsemani, Cartagena

Cross from spiffy, polished old town Cartagena into Getsemani, the hip-but-doesn't-quite-know-it-yet working class neighborhood. Loads of old, unfinished stone, bits of beautiful decrepitude and locals reading newspapers in the shade. Very much living — and lived-in — history

20. Chow Down on Seafood and Coconut Rice in Cartagena

Fish and seafood lovers, be on the lookout in Colombia, particularly as you make your way around the Caribbean coast and Cartagena. There's no shortage. One especially delightful, low-key and inexpensive meal: the lunch special at La Mulata in old town Cartagena (Calle Quero 9-58, Monday-Saturday breakfast and lunch). The fish was very good, the coconut lemonade rich, and the seafood soup remarkable. Poke your head into the kitchen to say hello to the staff and catch a look at the ginormous soup cauldrons on your way out.

21. Follow the Footsteps of Gabriel Garcia Marquez

We learned a little more about Cartagena's past and present by following the path of some characters from the novels of Nobel laureate and Colombian author Gabriel Garcia Marquez. The approach of this Marquez themed walking tour proved an amusing and fascinating way to add some texture, color and reality to the apparent polish of Cartagena, and to get some insight into the life of Marquez himself.

Working as a journalist in town, he would spend time at warehouses and docks after hours and talk with guards, workers, prostitutes, and drunks to get the real scoop. Along the way, he collected bizarre stories and characters that he later used in his novels. If you've ever read a Marquez novel, you know how eclectic these can get so it's fun to know from where the inspiration came.

22. Find the Lost City

For a deep dive, we recommend reading our guide for Colombia's Lost City Trek. Take a multi-day jungle hike through the rainforest to reach Teyuna (The Lost City) at 1300m (4265 ft). Perched on a mountain ridge in the Sierra Nevada range, it's believed that the capital of the Tayrona civilization was built in 800A.D., pre-dating Machu Picchu by 650 years. The journey there and the site itself are both more diverse and remarkable than most photos of the site might indicate.

23. Drink Hot Chocolate with Cheese in Bogota

Hot chocolate with cheese, a traditional Colombian snack, is what restaurant La Puerta Falsa in Bogota is best known for. Supposedly this is what professional Colombian cyclists fuel with when they compete; it's like a meal in itself. We'd also recommend inviting some friends and giving the ajiaco (Colombian chicken stew) a try as well.

La Puerta Falsa, a friendly family-run restaurant in the Candelaria neighborhood, is now in its sixth generation. and during our visit we had the chance to meet three generations at once.

More Bogota eating and drinking tips: If you like microbrews, be sure to check out Bogota Beer Company. And if you have a hankering for Asian food, we can vouch for Wok as all the dishes we sampled there were delicious and made with locally sourced ingredients. We also found this Bon Apetit article on Bogota restaurants to be quite useful. You can also take a street food tour with La Mesa (we enjoyed their Medellin street food tour). |Find accommodation in Bogota.

24. Learn About Colombia’s “False Positives” Through Street Art

Under what was known as Plan Colombia, a U.S. military and diplomatic aid initiative aimed at combating Colombian drug cartels and insurgents in Colombia, one measure of “success” was the number of guerrillas killed. Activists claim that the Colombian military, in an effort to demonstrate success, would dress up homeless and marginalized Colombians in guerrilla clothing so they could murder them.

The victims are now known as the “false positives.” It's estimated that 10,000 false positives, including anywhere between two and five thousand indigenous people, were killed in this manner. The Bogota Graffiti walking tour ends on Calle 20 in front of this politically-charged mural with a message to not forget these people.

25. Buy an Avocado to Eat with Seafood Cazuela

Looking for something local to eat in Bogota? Check out the lunchtime seafood restaurants at and near the corner of Carrera 4 and Calle 20, just down the way from DJ Lu's street art pictured above. Most places are flush with locals, including the one we chose and enjoyed, Los Sobores del Mar. If seafood is your thing, try the cazuela (casserole).

Although we gluttonously ordered fish (also good), a medium cazuela ought to be enough for two. Top it off by buying one of the huge avocados from the vendor seated outside the front door. The whole thing is especially fun as locals look on and help you with your transaction. We should note: the avocado vendor is friendlier and happier than he appears!

We know that this is just the tip of the Colombian experience iceberg. Which quintessential — or accidental — Colombian experiences do you suggest? Leave a comment and tell us what and why.

Most of experiences above were from the G Adventures Colombia Journey Tour. If you plan to book this or another tour with G Adventures, please consider starting the process by clicking on the ad below. The price stays the same to you and we earn a small commission. Thank you!

The post Colombia Travel Guide: 25 Experiences to Get You Started appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Call it my imagination. While I looked forward to our visit to Colombia, I harbored the occasional image of thuggy bush-mustached Colombian narco-gangsters and aggressive gold cap-toothed street thieves shaking me down in the back shadows of Bogota or Medellin. (Yes, I realize I’ve probably watched one too many bad airplane movies.)

Colombia, thankfully, was altogether different. We spent time on our own, under the auspices of friends, on tours, in cities, way up in the hills, on the coast, and in destinations in between.

No narco-gangsters. No untoward experiences, for us.

Trying to understand a place is not only about jettisoning stereotype ballast, but also about absorbing details, parsing quotes, and plumbing idiosyncrasies to comprehend a culture for ourselves.

So we did — in barrios, on buses, in markets, on miradors.

And this is our initial unpacking of our Colombia experience, our first brush of impressions of the country, across dimensions.

1. You really don’t know how big Colombia is.

Really, you don’t. Or, at least we didn’t. Hint: combine the landmasses of Germany, France and the United Kingdom. Yes, Colombia is that big.

It’s also more geographically diverse than we realized. The Andean mountain range, once it enters Colombia, splits into three branches; the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea sit west and north respectively. Throw in the Amazon rainforest, the plains, the desert and top it off with the Sierra Nevadas, the highest coastal mountain range in the world, and you have Colombia. And I’m sure someone will tell us we’ve missed something.

Because of this and the contours of landscapes, people and vibe, Colombia can sometimes feel like several countries rolled into one. In fact, given all that we learned during our trip about Colombia we now have an even longer travel wish list than when we first arrived, including San Agustin, Nuqui, Caño Cristales and many other areas that we've heard are fantastic for trekking and mountain biking.

Note: When planning your travel around Colombia, check distances and bus times and consider flying the longer segments. The country features an impressive network of airports and domestic flights, which were previously intended to circumvent the danger found on roads due to FARC and paramilitary groups. Nowadays, violence is less a factor than it once was, but road conditions, distances and the recent introduction of low-cost airlines like VivaColombia make flying an easier choice. It will save you a lot of time and help you avoid some of the pains of enduring winding mountain roads.

2. Colombian People: Exceptionally Friendly, Courteous, Helpful

Sure, we’d heard Colombians were friendly and open — especially from Colombians themselves 🙂 — but there was still a part of us that wondered whether we’d meet the gangster stereotypes conjured in our heads by bad movies and media. (Think: Vinnie Chase as Pablo Escobar from the TV Show Entourage for a start).

Um, no. The exact opposite, to an extreme.

What struck us about Colombians, especially in areas less impacted by tourism, is not only how open they were towards us, but also how they went beyond whatever we asked. They wanted to help. Take for example the employee at Chicamocha National Park who insisted on standing in the rain after her workday ended to ensure we boarded the correct bus. Or the random guy at a busy Bogota TransMilenio (public bus) station who went well out of his way to walk us to our correct bus stop. Beyond that, teenage kids in villages greeted us politely and wished us good evening. People stopped and gave us rides. Sure, this wasn’t happening in the midst of downtown Bogota or in the crowds of Cartagena, but it did happen. And it seemed more par for the course than the exception.

We were told that Colombia’s violent past made it somewhat difficult for the Colombian people to trust one another, not to mention outsiders. The openness we found — not only toward us as gringos, but to other Colombians as well – made this all the more surprising.

I understand that we often point out how friendly people are just about everywhere we go. But in general, and specifically in Latin America, Colombians' distinction for being notably open, polite and helpful will stay with us.

Note: Knowing how to speak some Spanish, even if imperfectly, will greatly aid your engagement with Colombians. Especially compared to its neighbors, there’s not a great deal of fluent English spoken…yet.

3. Give Security Forces a Thumbs Up

In some destinations, armed men in military fatigues on the side of the road could be cause for alarm. In Colombia, however, the scene is common and welcome. In a country that lived through decades of instability and violence, the presence of military and national police indicates: “This area is safe. We are here to protect you.”

Colombians indicate their gratitude and support by giving the thumbs-up sign to the security forces. Even better, imagine that the big guys with semi-automatic rifles often give the thumbs-up sign right back, with a smile.

However endearing the gesture, it reflects something deeper: how appreciative Colombian people are for the security and stability they now have. Until 10 years ago or so, large swathes of the country were off-limits and road travel posed serious threat because of guerilla roadblocks and kidnappings.

Should they sense unease, Colombians may also assure you of your safety, sometimes to even humorous effect. In the town of Barichara, our hosts opened with the following welcome: “It's very safe here. Don't worry. No one will offer you marijuana or other drugs.”

4. Colombia, A Vegetarian Dream, But Only in the Markets for Now

Walk into a market in Colombia and you’ll likely find piles of fruit, herbs, vegetables, roots and tubers you’ve never encountered before. To what do we owe this vast selection? Colombian biodiversity. Mountains, coast, and rainforest, each with their own climate and soil. It’s among the best of all worlds, agriculturally.

When you visit a fresh market, be sure to chat with vendors to get a mini-tutorial on all that they are selling. Sample whatever you can, from gooseberries to lulo, from yucca to malanga. And don't forget to check out the avocados the size of small footballs. As you do, keep in mind #2 above: people are friendly, don’t be afraid to engage.

Among the Colombian fresh markets we recommend: Mercado Paloquemao in Bogota, the San Gil central market, and the Villa de Leyva Saturday market.

The disappointing flip side to these amazing markets? It remains more difficult than it ought to be to find all these vegetables used creatively in local dishes and in local restaurants. There are some chefs and menu designers in Colombia trying to change this, but it’s taking time.

A note for gluten-free travelers: Colombia is a surprisingly decent destination for gluten-free eaters. Many dishes, soups and treats are corn-based, and various other baked goods are actually made with tubers such as yucca and suga.

5. “No Dar Papaya” (Don’t Give Papaya)

The story behind this phrase and advice: just as it’s hard to resist eating a sweet, ripe papaya that’s placed in front of you, it’s hard not to thieve something that is left out or waved around carelessly in front of you.

Thievery is not necessarily met with approval in Colombia per se, but it does not come as a surprise to a Colombian should you expose yourself indiscreetly. So take care with your belongings.

Another interpretation of this concept that applies more broadly: you shouldn’t expose weaknesses in yourself so that others may take advantage of you. This is not to say that you shouldn’t be open, but rather be deliberate and careful regarding what you share, how and with whom.

What does this say about the culture and the Colombian mindset? The optimist says good advice: Don’t be careless and remain realistic about human nature. The cynic says: a cultural justification and rationalization for bad behavior.

You decide.

While we are here, let’s further address the issue of safety in Colombia. During our more than three weeks with friends, on our own, on a tour, in cities and in hills, we never once felt threatened or at risk during our visit. We walked about quite a bit on our own, but we also know that there are notoriously dangerous areas that are to be avoided altogether. Ask someone with local knowledge where it’s safe, and don't try to prove anything to anyone. Should you choose to venture into an area known for crime (as we did in Barrio San Francisco, Cartagena), be sure to go during the day with someone from the community who knows the lay of the land.

6. Stratos, A Hierarchical Society

Colombian society is systemically hierarchical and class-based, which is not unlike many other countries in Latin America. However, the government has taken it a step further by formalizing it through a classification of neighborhoods by socio-economic status into levels called stratos (with stratos 6 being the highest level). The idea: those living in richer neighborhoods subsidize the utility bills of people living in poorer neighborhoods. While this subsidy may be beneficial in some respects, it also stigmatizes and systematizes a sort of social class caste system. Some suggested to us that even today it’s nearly impossible to move up from, or date and marry outside of one’s stratos.

As with many of its neighbors, much of Colombia’s turbulence and political upheaval has been rooted in socioeconomy and the yawning wealth gap between rich and poor. Guerrilla movements like the Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia (FARC) and criminal warlords like Pablo Escobar have all employed strains of populist rhetoric to justify their actions and the violence left in their wake. (Note: For an entertaining, yet sad, primer on Pablo Escobar and the rise of Colombian football, watch The Two Escobars)

For the traveler who spends all her time in Bogota’s Zona Rosa or Candelaria, Colombian coffee country, and the old town core of Cartagena, it's possible to believe that Colombia's richness has been for the benefit of everyone. But walk a few blocks off the path, and you may find a very different story.

7. Urban Planning for Social Change

Imagine your favorite city in the U.S. or Europe closing off vast segments of its roads on a Sunday to enable cyclists and joggers to move safely in an automobile-free environment. You’d think we were crazy, no?

But that’s exactly what Bogota does every Sunday with its Ciclovía when it cordons off over 400km of continuous roadway for the benefit of those who want to walk, jog, cycle or otherwise get some exercise and fresh air. Impressive, especially in a city of over eight million people.

Medellin serves as another fascinating case study in urban planning for social change and public safety improvement. Officials there invested in public transport, including a very cool cable car system into several poor and often gang-riddled barrios (neighborhoods) in the hills so that residents would have better access to the city. Additionally, other public works, including the Spain Library in Santo Domingo, were built to provide clean, safe learning environments for residents and children. The infrastructure and resulting impact also encourages people from other parts of the city to visit these neighborhoods, thereby aiding the normalization of relations between once disparate parts of town.

Although Medellin still has its share of problems, the transformation that the city has undergone in the last decade, especially in its poorer barrios, is worth watching. One may argue as to the sustainability of all these measures, but as a local teen told us: “We used to be at war with the barrio down there. Now we have a bridge that connects us.”

Beat that.

8. Impressive Street Art Culture

Another surprise from Colombia: fantastic street art. Not just some, but loads of it, at an astonishing level of quality, typically to make a political or cultural statement. Even more surprising, the acceptance and support from officials. Occasionally, the artistic process is even monitored by local police to ensure the protection of the artists.

Unsurprisingly, Botoga serves as the epicenter of Colombia’s street art scene. Travelers tempted to view the city as a transit point or a destination to be avoided altogether, think again. It's worth a visit, even if for a day or two. Wander the streets in Candelaria or around the area of Calle 20 and Carrera 4 in the Centro for the most message-laden pieces of street art.

In Cartagena, we really enjoyed the street art in Getsemani, the neighborhood just across the way from the core of its famous colonial old town. This area was originally where escaped slaves and the lower classes lived, but today it features a hip not-quite-fully-discovered vibe that serves as a worthy contrast to the polish and finish of the old town center.

Note: To understand the history behind the Bogota street art scene and the story of some of its most important artists, sign up for the Bogota Graffiti Tour (10 AM every day).

9. Arepas Unite!

In a country so vast and diverse in climate, culture, and geography, there’s one corn-based constant that unites it all: the flatbread arepa.

Each region does its arepa a little differently, none with less pride than the other. After tasting dozens over the last couple of weeks, we can attest to the fact that not all arepas are created equal. Arepas range from the appallingly dense and hockey-puck like to the crisp and delightful brine-cheese filled, from the cardboard tasteless, to the soft, sweet cornmeal.

Our favorites include the super crispy Arepas Boyacense and the warm, moist Arepas Santandereano. There's a stand at the Bogota Mercado Paloquemao that serves up amazing cheese-stuffed Boyacense arepas.

10. Colombian Coffee

Does an image of Juan Valdez come into your head when you think of Colombian coffee? If so, there’s a reason for that. The Federation of Colombian Coffee Growers created him in a brilliant marketing move in 1958 to be the “face” of the country’s coffee to the rest of the world. Yes, Juan is kind of cliché at this point, but the campaign worked.

Today, Colombia stands an impressive #3 in the world for coffee production after Brazil and Vietnam. What differentiates Colombia is that it tends to grows the more difficult, and often more prized, Arabica coffee bean rather than the higher yielding Robusta beans.

Visit coffee country around the town of Armenia and you will see plantation hills covered with coffee bushes, while in the Sierra Nevada mountains you’ll find an occasional bush planted by an indigenous family trying to diversify its income stream. In other words, coffee is everywhere in Colombia.

A visit to one of these coffee farms will help you appreciate all that goes into making your morning cuppa', including the people. A surprising coffee factoid: 100 kilos of picked coffee berries yields only 13 kilos of final product roasted beans. Coffee pickers are paid 500 pesos ($0.25) per kilo of beans. In one day, a good picker can make around $20-$25 from picking 100 kilos of beans. We were sent into the fields to pick beans; it’s immensely difficult work, especially in the energy-sapping heat. So, next time you peer into your cup of coffee, take a moment to think of everyone who helped create it.

Although much of the first quality coffee beans are exported, we found the quality of coffee in general served in Colombia much higher than in other Latin American coffee-producing countries we’d visited (e.g., Guatemala, Honduras). While Juan Valdez cafés usually serve up consistently good brew, we found our tidiest cup of Joe at Jesús Martín Café in the tourist favorite Salento.

There is one notable exception to the Colombian high quality coffee rule: tinto. Think watered down Nescafe with several spoonfuls of sugar turned in. It’s an acquired taste for outsiders, but it’s the Colombian national drink. And since Colombians grew up with it, they love it. You’ll find tinto vendors on every major street corner or market, so it won’t be hard for you to find – and judge — for yourself.

11. Cocaine and the Coca Leaf

Cocaine does not appear as relevant to mainstream Colombia these days, but it remains a force under the surface, if not still above it. Such is the world of the illegal drug trade. Don't make it the first mention to Colombians, however, if you choose to mention it all at. Most Colombians are understandably tired of this stereotype, have more important things going on in their lives, and wish to move on.

Before going further, we'd like to make a distinction between cocaine and coca. The coca leaf has been grown and chewed by indigenous populations throughout South America for millennia – it’s crucial to their rituals, it's part of their culture and their identity. For example, during our trek to the Lost City in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, our indigenous guide always carried a sack of coca leaves, and would exchange leaves with other indigenous men as he greeted them. This was critical to his identity as a Wiwa man.

Cocaine, on the other hand, is a substance altogether different. Yes, the green coca leaf forms the foundation, but after that the process of cocaine production becomes flush with chemicals and explosive danger.

The cook on our Lost City trek, Enrique, sat down with us one evening to describe to us the entire process of cocaine production, from start to finish, including a frightening list of ingredients and refinement steps involving gasoline, acid and a host of chemicals that transform the green coca leaf into white powder. The knowledge he shared, and the way he shared it, formed a bit of a history lesson for us. It came from a time in his life when narcotics traffickers controlled the Sierra Nevada hills, and most people living in the area had little choice but to work with them. Today, he's very thankful to be able to cook food instead for the trekkers on the way to the Lost City.

So while Pablo Escobar and many in his infamous Medellin Cartel are dead, cocaine – and the byproduct “industry” that gets built up around it – still exists in Colombia. Fighting the illicit cocaine trade and all the social and economic by-products of the criminal networks built up around it, however, remains an uphill battle.

Note: We also encountered this during our travels in Bolivia and wrote: Cocaine: A Story that Begins in the Bolivian Jungle

12. Tourism in Colombia: Still Early Days

Only in the last decade has stability and restored public safety enabled people to travel easily without fear of violence and kidnapping. As a result, outside of the Caribbean, foreign tourism in Colombia is still in its relative infancy.

What this means is that there are many destinations in Colombia that remain “off-the-beaten path.” Even those on it still don’t receive a great deal of foreign travelers. For example, when we visited Barichara and Villa de Leyva, two colonial towns high on traditional “must see” lists for first-time visitors to Colombia, we came across only a handful of foreign travelers in each.

The upshot? With the exception of Cartagena and some other well-traveled areas along the north coast, Colombia retains a bit of pre-tourism innocence.

Sure, perhaps the infrastructure can be a bit spotty in places and information can sometimes be hard to find, but if you make a little effort you’ll always find what you are looking for, often with the help of some random stranger. It seems that Colombian people really want to help, and to share their country with others. And to us, this is really what matters.

Colombia’s tourism industry will only continue to grow. So if you’re considering a visit, factor in timing. Think about visiting soon, so as to catch a little bit of the early air and take part in Colombia’s development — and maybe even your own.

A note of thanks to: Gregg Bleakney who enticed with videos of Colombia long before we arrived and piled us with great travel advice, Tansy Evans who opened our eyes up to the culinary potential of Colombian fruits and vegetables, and our G Adventures CEOs (leaders) Henry Sisa and Carmen Trujillo who were always there to answer all of our questions and help us understand the nature, culture and history of this complicated place called Colombia.

Most of experiences above were from the G Adventures Colombia Journey Tour. If you plan to book this or another tour with G Adventures, please consider starting the process by clicking on the ad below. The price stays the same to you and we earn a small commission. Thank you!

The post Travel to Colombia: First Impressions appeared first on Uncornered Market.

We're headed to Colombia tomorrow. We're off to see a country we were supposed to visit five years ago. We'll be on the trail for Colombian culture — from the Andes to the Pacific to the Caribbean — and to find The Lost City along the way.

Colombia. It's one of the countries that got away during the 15 months we traveled through Latin America a few years ago. We didn’t skip it because of safety concerns — in fact, even at that time ever more travelers were saying the opposite and urging us to go. We just happened to pass it at the height of rainy season and we figured we’d return when we were certain to have ample time to explore.

We didn’t expect it would take five years to return, but here we are.

We leave for Colombia tomorrow.

Note: In full disclosure, we technically have been to Colombia before. A couple of years ago, we enjoyed an eight-hour layover in Bogota, visited a friend in the city and tooled around for several hours. Dan thinks this counts. I do not.

Editor’s Note: Dan here. I’m not entirely certain what Audrey means by “counts.” Have I been to Colombia? Yes. Have I really “been to Colombia” in the Uncornered Market way. Not yet.

Colombia In My Imagination: Marquez

While many are introduced to Colombia by way of the news media – reports on things like drugs cartels and FARC rebels and the tenor of companion violence that comes with all that – I’d like to think I first met Colombia by reading Gabriel García Márquez novels, including Love in the Time of Cholera and One Hundred Years of Solitude. Marquez’s characters and plot lines were so vivid and outlandish, but I knew those portraits were drawn from and grounded in personal experience, composites of people and life events as Marquez had lived them.

Marquez's depictions conveyed an intensity in Colombian life, both in its joys and its sorrows. Scenes played out in colorfully painted towns and villages, albeit against the backdrop of corrupt politicians and clergy, all dashed with an undeniable Spanish colonial angst.

This Colombia intrigued me. The Colombia of emotion, of color and perhaps a touch of calamity.

So after reading and hearing about Colombia for so long, we're curious to dig in, to see for ourselves, to meet who we can, and to find what we will in the coming weeks.

Safety in Colombia

As we’ve shared our upcoming trip to Colombia with friends and family, among the first questions: “Is it safe there now?”

Dan and Audrey, meet the travel safety elephant in the room. Colombia has certainly witnessed its share of turmoil and violence, and although it isn’t competing with the likes of Singapore at the top of the list of the world's safest countries to visit, it has made a great deal of progress in the last decade on those counts. This is not to say that incidents don't still happen. However, we’ve found in our travels in nearby countries where awareness of visitor safety remains high (e.g., Honduras, Guatemala, El Salvador, etc.), we often find locals quite protective of us, advising us on-the-fly as to where we should and should not go.

We will remain aware and be mindful just as we would in cities anywhere — in the United States, Europe or elsewhere in Latin America. As we’ve written before, there are ways to remain safe yet open to local people and experiences.

What We Will See and Do in Colombia

We will spend a little over three weeks in Colombia, with the first week on our own and the next two and a half weeks on a G Adventures tour and Lost City Trek. Although we’ve done some research on Colombia, we are intent on gathering advice and tips as we go. So we welcome any recommendations.

Our First Week in Colombia: South or West?

We will travel independently during our first week in country. We'll spend the first couple of days at a friend’s cabin outside of Bogota, but after that we’re not entirely certain. We'd hoped to go to the Pacific Coast to the area near the town of Nuqui, but as there are no roads in that region we’re dependent upon flights and they are proving a bit problematic. So now we're considering visiting San Agustín so we can explore the 500 stone statues left in the hills by prehistoric peoples living in the area almost 5,000 years ago.

Of course, all this may change between the time we publish and the time we land in Bogota.

Update: After talking with friends here in Colombia and getting feedback from you all on our Facebook page we've decided to go to the Sierra Nevada and Barichara for the week.

What is your advice? Where would you go with a week in either Colombia’s west or south?

Colombia Experience Tour

This is the time for all those places and experiences that dance in our heads when we think of Colombia. Medellin, Cartagena, coffee plantations in the hills, beaches and jungles in the north — they all come into play during the next segment of our trip. We’ll spend almost two weeks exploring the country on the G Adventures Colombia Experience Tour.

A few highlights of this trip include:

• Bogota: Although we spent an afternoon here many years ago (I refer you to the inline argument between writer and editor, husband and wife above) we are looking forward to returning, digging in and exploring its markets, neighborhoods and art galleries.
• Armenia: We will spend time in the hills of Colombia’s main coffee-growing region, visiting coffee farms and meeting some of the people behind the coffee beans of Juan Valdez lore. We’ll also have some time to explore Salento and Cocora.
• Medellin: The prevailing reputation of Medellin was once one of violence and drugs (think: Medellin cartel), but it now stands as another example of destinations that are not static, places that have witnessed positive change and will hopefully continue to do so. We know several people who chose Medellin as their home, and have heard great things about the laid back feel of the city and the friendliness of its people.
• Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona: This is where we begin to shift gears and enjoy some of the beaches and Caribbean culture for which Colombia is famous. After all the photos we’ve seen of this region, we are trying hard to manage our expectations.
• Cartagena: This coastal city seems to be the stuff of Marquez novels – colorful, vibrant, steamy. Every time we mention Colombia to someone who has visited, they always seem to have a story of Cartagena, one that they relate with a tinge of emotion – eyes cast wistfully or a hand placed over the heart.

Lost City Trek

We end our journey with the Lost City Trek, a five-day hike in the jungle of Colombia’s Sierra Nevada mountains, with the goal of reaching “Ciudad Perdida Teyuna,” (Spanish for “Lost City of Teyuna”). Although no one knows for certain, it is believed that Teyuna was founded around 800 A.D., some 650 years earlier than Peru's Machu Picchu. The city was a central hub of sorts for a group of villages inhabited by the Tairona (among the predecessors of today's northern Colombian inhabitants). Teyuna is composed of 169 terraces carved into the mountainside. It is connected by roads and thousands of stone stairs and was abandoned in 1599 after it was attacked during the Spanish conquest.

Rumor has it that local Kogi, Arhuaco and Wiwas indigenous groups in the area knew of Teyuna, considered it a holy place, and thus kept it to themselves. It was “rediscovered” a little over 40 years ago and opened to trekkers in 2005. So while this isn't an entirely new trek, it's not especially well known…yet.

Along the way we’ll pass through farms and villages and meet with some of the indigenous communities to learn about local culture, history and life in the region. The trail carves its way through thick jungle and follows the Buritaca River, arriving each night at a campsite conveniently located near a natural swimming pool so that we may cool off from the day's efforts.

This is a new trek for G Adventures so we’re excited to experience it before they begin offering it to travelers from mid-June of this year.

Our Trip to Colombia: How You Can Help

If you’ve traveled to Colombia and been to any of the cities or areas mentioned above, we’d love to hear your advice on markets, food, and other great experiences you’ve had. Although some of our itinerary is fixed with the tour –- in particular the destination cities — this G Adventures trip provides quite a bit of independent time so we’d love to hear your suggestions!

Any other Colombia destinations or experiences, hidden or otherwise, that you feel warrant a look or a visit, please share. We may be able to pursue them in our free time. If we cannot, our readers are sure to appreciate and benefit from your advice.

Follow Our Colombia Adventure

You can follow our adventures in Colombia using the hashtags #GadvColombia on Twitter and Instagram. We will also share updates on our Facebook and Google Plus pages. We're excited to have the opportunity to share our Colombia experience with you!

Photo Credits: G Adventures, Marcelo Druck, Katie Bordner

The post Next Up: Exploring Colombia and Finding The Lost City appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Maybe you'd like to visit wine country in Argentina. You've heard about Mendoza, but you wonder: How to I go about wine tasting and touring wineries there? The options are many, but if you'd like to have a meaningful, enlightening wine tasting experience and an awesome time, here are a few tips on how to do so without blowing a ton of cash.

When we visited Argentina, we saved Mendoza, the country's oldest and best-known wine region, for our last stop. Mendoza is one of those familiar names — it's the epicenter of Malbec, Argentina’s most famous red wine varietal, and as the autumn harvest begins to fade into winter, the snow-covered Andes frame something simply stunning.

But there's always hype, isn't there? Due to feedback from other travelers, we'd tempered our expectations of Mendoza prior to our visit. In actual experience, we were pleasantly surprised to find not only some excellent wines but also some warm, passionate people working in the industry who were keen to open their world to us.

How did we do this? We took a three-pronged approach: seek out a tasting room for orientation, go deep with a public transport tour of Lujan de Cuyo, and wind things up on a bicycle down the wine roads of Maipu Valley. For sure, we'd taste Malbec, but we also went offbeat with Cabernet, Bonarda, Petit Verdot and Viognier, too.

Whatever you choose to do in Mendoza and wherever you choose to go, we offer this general bit of advice: show your curiosity, don't be afraid of exposing your inexperience, ask lots of questions and always seek out tastings beyond the standard offer.

Note: Many wineries close down over the weekend. If your stay overlaps with a weekend, do your research or call in advance to be sure the winery you want to visit is indeed open.

1) An Orientation: Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room

When you first arrive in Mendoza, make a beeline to this place. With close to 100 wines by the glass served by savvy sommeliers, Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room is the place to go for an orientation on Mendoza wine regions, wineries, wines and varietals. However deep or broad you'd like to go, Vines of Mendoza is thorough and approachable.

Take a seat at the bar up close to the action, and let the fun begin.

In our experience, the bartender-sommeliers are what seal the experience. The ones we'd spoken to weren't just trying to push the most expensive glasses of wine our way. They spoke intelligently and passionately, but never to the point of overdoing it. They had fun and so did we.

Tell them what you’re looking for in a wine and they'll usually recommend three to four wines to try. If you ask nicely, they will give you small tasting of each (a sort of mini-flight) so that you can choose the one you like most. Buy a full, generously poured glass. You’ll be surprised; it’s often not the most expensive wine you’ll choose. The whole process works particularly well for couples and small groups.

On our first day, we were drawn to a Viognier, a white wine varietal. An unlikely pick in a country known mainly for its reds, but that Viognier (Lorca Poetico 2008, 40% oaked) would remain with us as one of our favorites. We made our way through various styles of Malbecs (we had to, didn't we?) and we went further afield to Bonarda, a traditional blending varietal we'd become fond of.

The standard tasting flight costs 60 pesos ($15), while wines by the glass run from 15 pesos ($4) upwards to 80 ($20) pesos. Although flights offer an overview, wines by the glass (particularly those that happen to be on daily special) are ones that will likely leave a chop-licking impression.

Vines of Mendoza also hands out nifty maps of Maipu and Lujan de Cuyo which include recommended wineries and restaurants. The Vines of Mendoza staff will even give hints as to which vineyards to visit, depending on what type of wines you are looking to experience.

If you really adore a specific wine or winemaker, they can also arrange shipping around the world.

Address: Espejo 567, Mendoza; tel: +54 (261)4381031

Helpful Tips:
– Time your visits to Vines of Mendoza on Happy Hour evenings, from 7-9 PM which feature a 50% off list of select wines by the glass. Happy Hour days change (Wednesday and Saturday during our visit; last we heard, Tuesday and Friday), so call in advance to confirm.
– Visit the Vines of Mendoza location at the Hilton Mendoza on Thursday nights for all you can eat tapas and two glasses of wine for 45 pesos ($12). A terrific value — and an experience that left us feeling spiffier and more refined than we actually are.

Tasting highlights:

• 2006 Bonarda Marrena: red fruit and a hint of spice
• Sagre de los Andes, Malbec 2008: smoke, leather, flowers, even a faint essence of elastic bandages (we kid, sort of)
• Rothschild, Flecha de los Andes, 2008 Gran Malbec: mmm, chocolate
• Lorca Poetico, 2008 Viognier: fresh hints of citrus fruit, 40% aged in oak barrels, lending the wine body and firmness

2) Wineries in Lujan de Cuyo

Outside of Uco Valley, Lujan de Cuyo is the highest quality wine-growing sub-region in Mendoza. It's also a place where a slew of mid- and high-end wineries operate. Although having a car will make things easier, it is possible to get to Lujan by public bus from Mendoza (just ask at your guest house or hotel). After the bus drops you off in town, things can get a bit tricky. This is where you'll have to walk and ask questions for wineries in town, or hire a taxi to take you to the vineyards on the town's outskirts.

If you plan to visit several wineries, our suggestion would be to hire a taxi for the day to drive you around as distances between wineries can be vast.

Among the Lujan wineries we visited below, all export wine abroad, with Alta Vista wines being the easiest to find in the U.S.

Achaval Ferrar

Achaval Ferrer is an example of one of the boutique high-end wineries emerging in this area. The Argentine owners came from backgrounds altogether different than wine (the cement business), but they decided to follow their passion. They understood their limitations and brought in talent from Italy and Argentina to craft the high-end wines they envisioned.

Achaval Ferrer operates vineyards in both Lujan and Uco Valleys, their wines drawing characteristics from old vines, distinct soil types and high-altitude climates — all of which find expression in a more subtle French style rather than the bold, fruit-forward one common to many Argentine wines. Achaval Ferrer wines are geared toward longevity and export, so the winemaker keeps alcohol levels low.

Achaval Ferrer seems also to be on the itinerary of big wine buyers and spectators (i.e., those with private drivers and deeper pockets), but the atmosphere was not at all stuffy. The hosts were very welcoming to two independent travelers like us who showed up at the door without a reservation. And there is a nice personal touch: one of the owners led us on the tour and through the tasting.

Tour and Tasting: Call ahead to make a reservation or find out when tours are scheduled. We lucked out and arrived five minutes before a tour was set to begin. English language tours are available. Our tour was free, but the Achaval Ferrer website now indicates that tastings cost $10.
Tasting highlights: Quimera Blend (Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot),
Contact information: Calle Cobos 2601, Pedriel (about 10 km outside Lujan de Cuyo), tel: +54 9 261 5 53 55 65 (Patricia Lambert)

Carmelo Patti

Running a one-man-show winery doesn't leave much time for the details, including putting up a sign outside. But if you are looking for character, story and some unique quality wine, you'll have to pay Carmelo Patti a visit. Just as we entered the courtyard, Carmelo walked out from a garage with a thief full of young Cabernet Sauvignon taken straight from the barrel. Without skipping a beat, he handed it to Audrey as if they'd been old friends: “Try it. It will be a good wine, but it needs time. Maybe another year or more.”

He was of course right in all respects.

As Carmelo explains it, his marketing is all boca a boca (word of mouth); it’s the quality of his wines and the energy of charismatic personality that has thrust his one-man operation into the pages of the major press and wine magazine circuit.

Even after working his whole life in the wine industry (and working very hard, if our visit was any indication), Carmelo Patti struck us as passionate as ever about wine. To age like this, the stuff of dreams.

Tour and Tasting: Free. Show up during the day and Carmelo will take you around the entire operation (he and his helper were cleaning the tanks from the crush when we arrived). Carmelo doesn’t speak much English, although he’s so friendly that we imagine language is hardly a barrier to non-Spanish speakers.
Tasting highlights: Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($17) – smooth, sophisticated, and very much a product of the soil the vines are grown in.
Contact information: San Martin 2614, Lujan de Cuyo, (0261)498-1379/155601020

Alta Vista

AltaVista was by far the largest of the wineries we'd visited that day. We arrived late and had seen more than our share of winery facilities that week. We skipped the tour and went straight for the tasting, which included four wines in the low and mid range of AltaVista's vast offerings. This was OK, but we asked some questions to poke around the possibilities of tasting something else by the glass.

We're glad we did.

Sensing our curiosity, our hostess told us about Los Escasos, a limited line of inexpensive estate wines. The line was a result of deliberate experimentation — winemakers had free range to create their dream wines. Each label was designed with a character to express the personality of the varietal inside. We were intrigued, but unfortunately the wine we wanted to try most – the Petit Verdot – was not on the wines-by-the-glass menu.

Sensing our disappointment, our hostess looked around, shrugged her shoulders as if to say, “What the heck?” and reached for the corkscrew.

She poured herself a glass as well. As she swirled it and took in the aroma, you could tell she was thoroughly enjoying herself. She confided with a smile, “This is a really unique wine, my favorite of the group. Good choice.”

Tour and Tasting: Standard tasting is 30 pesos. Tours available throughout the day.
Tasting Highlights:

• Terrior Selection, Malbec 2007: nice body and tannins, a good reliable Malbec
• Los Escasos Petit Verdot 2004: tropical, red fruit, lot of tannins, needs time to open
• Los Escasos Cabernet Sauvignon 2005: unique and fruity. We shared a bottle of this with a Mendoza-based caterer who prepares dishes expressly for wine-pairing. And judging by his reaction, he was quite impressed. Not bad for a $10 bottle.
• Alta Vista Temporal Blend 2007: tasty, well-balanced tannins and fruit ($15)

Contact information: Alzaga 3972, Lujan de Cuyo; Tel: +54 261 496 4684

3) A Leisurely Cycle-and-Taste in Maipu Valley

Biking from winery to winery, with tastings in between, is fun and oddly amusing. Keep in mind, however, that we recommend this more for the overall experience rather than the quality of many of the wines you’ll taste along this route.

The truth is this: because of the large quantity of travelers taking this route, tours and tastings can be crowded. We also found that many of the groups of travelers we ran into seemed more interested in the quantity of wine they could down, rather than the quality of wine they'd be exposed to. The wineries obviously understand this and many often serve their lowest quality stuff.

Can you really blame them?

So if you have a sincere interest in wine tasting and getting a better feel for the wines in Maipu, ask for a wines-by-the-glass menu (often reasonably priced), allow the crowds to scatter, and enjoy a taste or two of something a bit higher quality.

Whatever wineries you choose to visit on your biking path, consider stopping off at Tempus Alba for lunch. Their rooftop restaurant features a nice view of the vineyards, a calm atmosphere and a rather excellent lamb burger and steak sandwich.

Order a tasting flight to go along with your meal and enjoy a nice break (we particularly enjoyed the Tempus Pleno — a Cabernet-Malbec blend — and a rather unusual Malbec Rose). Beware though; you may not be able to leave without a barrage of kisses and hugs from Christian, one of the winemakers.

Uco Valley

If we had more time in Mendoza, we would have gone to Uco Valley (and probably done so first). It's a bit further afield, but because of the high altitude, wines made from grapes grown here are said to generally be among the best that Mendoza has to offer.

Rent a car or driver for the day or book tickets on the Bus Viniviticola that visits several wineries in the course of the day for 100 pesos ($25).

—-

Mendoza could indeed keep you for weeks with its collection of wineries and wine bars. Even if you only have a couple of days, you can still get a solid overview and taste of some excellent wines. And the whole experience just might change the way you think about the sophistication and diversity of Argentine wines.

In fact, you may just find that there's more to Mendoza than Malbec.

The post Wine Tasting in Mendoza, Argentina: Going Beyond Malbec and Loving It appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Have you ever glommed on to a piece of information and carried it with you, even if you can’t remember its origins or vouch for its accuracy?

That was me with the city of Valparaiso and hot dogs (or completos, as they are called in Chile).

Someone, somewhere in Peru told me that Valparaiso had the best hot dogs — topped and smeared with avocado — in all of Chile, possibly in all of South America and quite possibly in all the world. Thus, images of avocado (the ultimate fat) atop hot dogs (the ultimate junk) stuck with me, securing Valparaiso a coveted spot on our South American itinerary.

I was so excited in fact that I told anyone headed to Chile that they must visit Valparaiso, if only for the hot dogs. I even remember writing about it with urgency on a friend’s Facebook wall when I heard she was flying into Santiago.

“Go to Valparaiso for the avocado-topped hot dogs. Best in Chile,” I said, my hot dog excitement getting well ahead of me — and the fact that I had little to no basis to make this recommendation.

I was on a mission. And I would make it everyone's mission.

And oddly enough, I don’t even really like hot dogs.

Fast forward a few months and we finally arrive in Santiago. We’re hanging out with our virtual-now-real life friends, Eileen and Margaret, and I mention my in-mind Valparaiso hot dog obsession.

Confused looks.

Keep in mind that these gals know Chile, having lived there for something like (I hope I'm getting this right), 7 and 20 years respectively. So you could say, they know the place well.

Shoulder shrugs. Valparaiso had hot dogs just like anywhere else in Chile. But my hopes of a Chile dog to beat all dogs? Temporarily dashed.

We day-tripped to Valparaiso anyway. But it was sketchy, a dangerous sort of place to look for hot dogs.

We'd been warned of Valparaiso, perhaps most so by the people on its streets. Passers-by would eye our cameras and bag and point — no, not to steal them, but to suggest that we should put them away so that no one else would. As we walked into the hills above Plaza Sotomayor, just about every person we passed pointed up in the direction we were headed, shook their heads and said something to the order of “Peligroso.” (Dangerous.)

As we climbed further still, a crazy guy shook his arms, did something like a rain dance, shouted “Police, police!” and drew his finger across this throat. Against our better judgment, we climbed further still.

Suffice to say, we survived to discover a fascinating neighborhood, one of Valparaiso's many.

But no hot dogs.

Valparaiso is a port town, with a down-at-the-heels underbelly feel to it. But well beyond that, it has a spirit. It's offbeat and wickedly artistic with its knock-your-socks-off street art. The people on the streets and at Mercado Cardinal, one of Valparaiso's fresh markets, were warm and colorful. The photos in the slideshow below tell it best.

And although we had only one day, we enjoyed our visit immensely. For its aesthetic and most of all for its people, Valparaiso stands as one of my South America favorites.

Photo Essay of Valparaiso, Chile

You can view the photo set here.

But wait a minute. You dragged me through this sketchy, charismatic city, but I signed up for a piece about hot dogs. What gives? I want hot dog intelligence.

As it happens, we got our Chilean hot dog fix at La Vega market in Santiago. Logs of pure mystery meat (as hot dogs apparently ought to be) were smothered in rich, creamy avocado, mayonnaise and chopped tomato salsa. Chile does in fact take hot dogs to a new culinary level (this, from a kid who grew up on deli dogs and Texas wieners with chili and mustard in Scranton, Pennsylvania). So in my limited hot dog experience, Chile delivered the best dog in Latin America. (Yes, yes Brazil, I know you've got something mad and over-the-top, too. But, that's for our next visit.)

Hot dog trivia: any guesses why the avocado, mayonnaise and tomato-topped hot dog is called a completo Italiano?

The post A Hot Dog Hunt in Valparaiso (Chi-Chi-Chi, Le-Le-Le) appeared first on Uncornered Market.